Early Explorers of Steamboat Springs, Colorado

Transcription

1 Early Explorers of Steamboat Springs, Colorado By James Logan Crawford Copyright 2017 last updated February 13,

2 Early Explorers of Steamboat Springs, Colorado The James H. Crawford family were the first permanent residents of Steamboat Springs. However there were many other people who wandered through the Yampa valley in the decades before the Crawfords appeared in Below is a list of all of the people who have been reported as being in or near Steamboat Springs. Note that several of the early journals describe a Steamboat spring, near Soda and other springs along the Bear River while going between Fort Davy Crockett (in Brown's Hole at the Colorado/Utah border) and Fort Hall (in Idaho). This Bear River flows into the Great Salt Lake, and has a bend at the present town of Soda Springs, Idaho, 40 miles southeast of Pocatello, which has many springs including soda, bear, steamboat, and hot springs. Also note that many of the old place names are no longer used. Yampa River was called either Yampah or Bear River. Little Snake River was called Elkhead or Little Bear River. North Park was called New Park and Middle Park was called Old Park. The fort where Frapp was killed was at Battle Mtn, Wyoming. In the following paragraphs, some of the people did not make it through the land that is now Steamboat Springs. Those that definitely did are indicated with: *** while those that might have and require more research are indicated with: ***. The drawings were made by John D. Crawford in 1939 from Indian petroglyphs found on the cliffs to the west of the Foidel School in Twenty Mile park Fremont people. There are several petroglyph sites to the west of Steamboat Springs, as close as Mt. Harris and the Twenty-mile Coal Mine, that were drawn in the Fremont period. We know little of who the Fremont actually were, other than these drawings and arrowheads found at the sites. An arrowhead quarry on Windy Ridge, south of Rabbit Ears Pass, also attests to pre- Columbian people in the vicinity of Steamboat Springs.

3 *** Ute Indians. Bands of Ute Indians wandered through Steamboat Springs for centuries. 500 Utes were camped by the springs when the Crawfords first moved here in They often came for weeks at a time in the summer months. Arapahoe Indians also came into the valley at times, and at least once in 1816 fought with the Utes in Steamboat Springs. Yahmonite was the Ute sub-chief who was the head of the band of Utes who frequented the Yampa Valley after the Crawfords arrived, and Pahwintah was Yahmonite's nephew Fathers Dominquez and Escalante. These Spanish explorers from Sante Fe camped along the White River near Meeker during their search for a route to California. There is no evidence that any Spanish explorers traveled closer to Steamboat Springs. An Isolated Empire: A History of Northwest Colorado by Frederic J. Athearn, ***1818 or later. Three traders lived in a mud house at the edge of the Ute encampment, but moved away with the Utes when Arapahoes attacked and killed Yahmonite's father. Maggie By My Side, 1976, by Lulita Crawford Pritchett William Ashley. Trappers appeared in the Brown's Hole area by In 1824 William Ashley and a party of trappers came down from Wyoming into the Yampa Valley where they viewed the springs, and then northwest through Brown's Hole scouting for potential fur rendezvous locations. Other trapper parties came to the Rocky Mountains in subsequent years to try to emulate Ashley's success: Alexander Sinclair, Robert Bean, Antoine Robidoux, Thomas Smith, John Gantt, Kit Carson, Alexander Sinclair, Calvin Jones, Albert Gallatin Boone, and William S. Williams were all known to come to North Park, Brown's Hole, or the Flattop Mountains in the

4 1820s and 1830s. However there is no specific mention of them being in Steamboat Springs. Fort Davy Crockett opened in Brown's Hole in 1836 and had many visitors until it was abandoned in An Isolated Empire: A History of Northwest Colorado by Frederic J. Athearn, Joseph L. Meek. "From New [South] Park, [Joe] Meek traveled north with the main camp, passing first to the Old Park; thence to the Little Snake, a branch of Bear River; thence to Pilot Butte; and finally to Green River to rendezvous... [from chapter 9; nothing to indicate whether he actually passed through Steamboat Springs]. The River of the West: The Adventures of Joe Meek; The Mountain Years, 1870, by Frances Fuller Victor. *** sod house/fort. An old adobe house was found by the Crawfords with numerous ox shoes, nails, oxbow, and pieces of iron scattered about as well as initials carved in trees: J.D., O.M., C.H.L., with a date of This adobe fort was about 50 yards on the west side of the Yampa River opposite what is now 8th st Steamboat Springs brochure written by C.C. Graham (reprinted in Routt Co. Sentinel March 29, 1907) James H. Crawford Interview, May 24, *** Thomas Jefferson Farnham. Farnham kept a journal of his 1839 journey along the Sante Fe trail to the S. Platte River, and from there to Fort Davy Crockett in Brown's Hole and on to Oregon. On August 4th he describes the Sulphur Cave, and at least mentions there are springs nearby. There were 5 other men with him: Sidney Smith, Joseph Wood, W. Blair, Obadiah Oakley, and "guide" Kelly. At their camp just downstream from the springs at the junction of Elk R. they met four mountain men going the opposite direction: Craig, Burns, Ward, and Warfield. At Fort Davy Crockett they met a party of men going east, including F. A. Wislizenus, who likewise kept a journal. Wislizenus' party went up the Little Snake River and crossed the divide to the N. Platte River, so never came near Steamboat Springs. Both Farnham (August 29th) and Wislizenus describe the Bear River springs in Idaho.

5 Travels in the Great Western Prairies, The Anahuac and Rocky Mountains, and in the Oregon Territory, Vol I, 1843 by Thomas J. Farnham A journey to the Rocky Mountains in the year 1839, 1912 by F. A. Wislizenus (Chapter 17) E. Willard Smith. E. Willard Smith was a private traveller who in the fall of 1839 went from Independence, Missouri to Fort Lupton north of Denver, and from there to the Fort at Brown's Hole via North Park and the [Little] Snake River. He came back in the winter of 1840 much the same way. In his journal, he mentions seeing a Sulphur spring, but that was on the day he reached Vermillion Creek, one day short of Brown's Hole. He never reached the Yampa R. or anywhere near Steamboat Springs. Journal of E. Willard Smith while with the Fur Traders, Vasquez and Sublette, in the Rocky Mountain Region, by J. Neilson Barry, in The Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society, Vol. 14, No. 3 (Sep., 1913), pp John C. Fremont. Fremont was commissioned a second lieutenant in the Corps of Topographic Engineers and ordered to blaze trails into Oregon and California. His second expedition took them through Wyoming to the Steamboat Spring in Idaho (August 25, 1843). On their way back east, they went from Brown's Hole (June 7, 1844) along the Yampa R., up the Elkhead R. past the fort where Frapp was defeated and over the divide to the N. Platte R., south to North Park, Middle Park, and South Park. He did not go anywhere near Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Report of the Exploring Expedition to The Rocky Mountains in the year 1942 and to Oregon and North California in the years 1843-'44, 1845, by Brevet Captain John Charles Fremont Rufus B. Sage. Sage was a writer who spent 3 years from 1841 to 1844 exploring the Rocky Mountains. On his return east he passed by the Bear River springs in Idaho (Chapter 24) and went from Brown's Hole to North Park (Chapter 27): "Crossing the Yampah, we soon struck the Elk Head, or Little Bear [currently the Little Snake], a principal affluent from the right, and continuing our course up its valley. After passing a small ridge, on the 30th Nov. we found ourselves upon the head waters of the Platte." [page 285] He then

6 describes New Park, and goes south to Old Park. He mentions passing the fort where Frapp was killed, which confirms that he never went close to Steamboat Springs. Rocky Mountain Life; or Startling Scenes and Perilous Adventures in the Far West, 1846 by Rufus B. Sage George Augustus Frederick Ruxton. [Ruxton's journal does not seem to indicate that he went anywhere near northwest Colorado; must re-read Lulita's letter to see why I have this person on the list.] Steamboat Springs Pilot May 24, 1990 letter to editor from Lulita Crawford Pritchett Dr. Wake Brierly. The 1849 Journal of Dr. Wake Brierly says he and friends saw Steamboat spring, but from his description of all the springs and fissures it sounds more like Yellowstone or Steamboat spring in Idaho. [must see the rest of the journal to see where he was before and after this account in the Pilot]. Steamboat Springs Pilot June 16, *** Isaac Miller. The journals of Isaac Miller, a boy of 16 in 1849, state that his wagon train headed to California made a detour south to find pasture for their oxen and livestock. They stayed several weeks near some hot springs, including one that made a chugging sound. This may partially explain the walls of an old sod fort, parts of a log cabin, pieces of log chain, ox shoes, and an ox bow found by James H. Crawford (see above in 1835). [I have been unable to find the journal to verify that this might be Steamboat Springs, CO., and to find who all was in the wagon train; however the Pilot article is convincing.] Images of America Steamboat Springs, 2009 by David H. Ellis and Catherine H. Ellis. Steamboat Springs Pilot, May 12, 1949, p7. ***1849. A short feature in the 1949 Denver Post Sunday section about old yoke & cabin by Sulphur Cave led to a reply from a Wisconsin man who said his father had been lost on way to CA gold fields in 1849 and built a cabin to spend the winter in a valley with

7 curious springs (see p7 of book). [I have not read the Denver Post article/letter]. "Steamboat Springs: the First Forty Years", 1972, by Lee A. Powell. *** Sir George Gore. Sir George Gore toured the Rocky Mountains with a large hunting party led by Jim Bridger. They made a road over Gore Pass to the Yampa River where they met some Utes who persuaded them to turn around and go back. The June 24th, 1908 issue of the Steamboat Pilot said they took an Indian trail from Rabbit Ears to Steamboat Springs, erected the fort by the Sulphur cave, hunted up to Sand Mt., and fished in Fish Creek. Other accounts are vague as to whether Gore even made it to Steamboat Springs. The Amazing Adventures of Lord Gore: A True Saga from the Old West, 1977, by Jack Roberts Captain Marcy. James H. Crawford in his 1923 interview mentioned that Captain Marcy marched from Fort Bridger south through mountains to New Mexico to procure food for General Johnston's Mormon Expedition. However Marcy's autobiography indicates that he went straight south to the Grand River. Thirty Years of Army Life on the Border,1866, by Colonel R. B. Marcy lieutenant under General Johnson. A squad of US troops with a lieutenant under Gen Johnson returned east from Utah via Bear R, 20-mile park, Yellow Jacket pass, and over the Gore range at Morrison creek. So they did not actually make it to Steamboat Springs. Steamboat Springs Pilot, August 18, 1897, p2. *** Gen Bela M Hughes. In the autumn of 1859 General Bela M. Hughes passed near the springs of Steamboat Springs, but we have no more details of who he was or where he went Steamboat Springs brochure (also in Steamboat Pilot March 30, 1967 supplement page 17).

8 *** Charles Utter. "... in 1860, Charles Utter, a famous Colorado Indian trader and trapper, now said to be living in Mexico, bivoucked about the springs." [Is this Colorado Charlie, the friend of Wild Bill Hickock?] 1888 Steamboat Springs brochure written by C.C. Graham (reprinted in Routt Co. Sentinel March 29, 1907) Edward Louis Berthoud and Jim Bridger. In 1861 Berthoud and Bridger were hired by the Central Overland California and Pikes Peak Stage Company to survey a possible railroad route from Denver to Salt Lake City. Their party included John K. Wright, Thomas Moses, Frand and Charles Farrell, Edward Boyd, Redwood Fisher, Special Indian Agent Harvey M. Vaile, Dr. J. G. Edwards, and three packers. They went over Berthoud Pass, by Hot Sulphur Springs, over Gore Pass, and down the White River into Utah. They probably never saw Steamboat Springs. Island in the Rockies - The History of Grand County, Colorado, to 1930, 1969, by Robert C. Black Joseph Hahn. In 1862 Joseph Hahn and two companions first came to the area around Hahns Peak. Joseph returned the following year with William A. Doyle and George Day. The first settlement at Hahns Peak was started in It appears that Hahn and the other miners traveled to and from Hahns Peak via North Park, so it is not known who, if any, actually saw Steamboat Springs. The Tread of Pioneers, Steamboat Springs: The Steamboat Pilot, 1945, by Charles H. Leckenby Major Edward W. Wynkoop and U. M. Curtis. Simeon Whiteley, Agent to the Grand River and Uintah bands of Utah Indians, led an effort including Curtis as interpreter, to return an Indian girl to her band. Whiteley only made it to Middle and North parks. He was supposed to meet with Major Wynkoop in Middle park, but found out from the Rocky Mountain News, August 17, 1863, that Wynkoop had led his 1st Colorado calvary troops over Gore's Pass, across Yampa and White Rivers to Grand River, and back to Denver. Whiteley returned to Denver, but Curtis with the girl continued over Gore's pass, southerly to the Grand river, thence northwesterly to the Elk

9 head and Vermillion rivers and into Utah where he found the Indian band. The report does not describe what route Curtis took to return to Denver. Annual report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for the Year 1863 letter in report by Simeon Whiteley dated October 20, Major Oaks. "In 1864, Major Oaks noted in Colorado established an Indian agency here. It was abandoned a year later." [Daniel C. Oakes was appointed Indian Agent by President Andrew Johnson in He still lived in Denver, but made several trips to northwest Colorado to meet the Utes and to look for a suitable site for the Agency. In 1869 he selected the site at White River, and made a trip through Rawlins to White River to hand the agency off to Meeker. I could find no record of the agency ever residing anywhere other than Denver or White River, but it is possible that Oakes did travel through the Yampa Valley at Steamboat Springs.] 1888 Steamboat Springs brochure written by C.C. Graham (reprinted in Routt Co. Sentinel March 29, 1907) ***1870 Maj. Thompson. In the summer of 1870 Maj. Thompson, special agent of the seven bands of confederated Utes, and his official interpreter U. M. Curtis came as far as Steamboat Springs to look up some wandering bands of Indians that had threatened trouble. They made the trip on horseback, taking some pack animals for the bedding and provisions. They came over Rollins pass, through Middle park, over the Gore range to Egeria and thence down Bear river to Steamboat Springs, where they expected to find the Indians, but the latter had returned to the reservation, and after camping here a day Thompson and Curtis returned to Denver. Steamboat Springs Pilot, Feb 28, 1923, p F. F. Brune. Brune ran the 1st correction line north of the principle meridian in This took him along the southern edge of township 5N, about 10 miles south of Steamboat Springs. Brune, F. F.: Field Notes, 1873

10 Joe Morgan. In 1872, Joe Morgan established a trading store where Elkhead Creek joins Bear River at the crossing of the White River Agency road, the first white settler in Yampa Valley. This is considerably west of Steamboat Springs, and there is no indication that he ever came to Steamboat. His brother Dave Morgan joined Joe at the trading store in Reminiscences of Frontier Days, 1938, by M. Wilson Rankin th Parallel Survey - Clarence King, Samuel Franklin Emmons, James Terry Gardner. Clarence King was the leader of the 40th Parallel Survey in the 1870s. Geologist S. F. Emmons, working on the survey, reported that they found coal deposits along the Yampa River near present-day Craig in I do not know if King himself ever went to the Yampa River, nor do I know if anybody in the survey made it any closer to Steamboat Springs. Steamboat Springs Pilot, Jan 29, 1976, p1a (coal) Great Surveys of the American West, 1980, Richard A. Bartlett *** Ferdinand V. Hayden. Hayden during his survey work in Colorado camped near the current town of Hayden in I do not know if any of his group went any closer to Steamboat Springs. [1st]12th annual report of the United States Geological and geographical survey of the territories for the Years 1867, 1868, and 1869, 1873, by Ferdinand V. Hayden ***1873/4 - Gayton Kimball, Al Hanscomb, and Swede Erickson. In the winter and spring of , these three men trapped in or near Steamboat Springs. Crawford Pioneer Tales, 2005, by Lulita Crawford Pritchett. *** prospector. In June, 1874, on his reconaissance trip, James H. Crawford met a prospector in Egeria Park who had just come from the big bend and told him about the steamboat spring. This was the last known person to have visited Steamboat before Crawford arrived there in another week. James H. Crawford Interview, May 24, 1923.

11 Bibliography Athearn, Frederic J.: An Isolated Empire: A History of Northwest Colorado, Denver: Colorado State Office Bureau of Land Management, 1976 Bartlett, Richard A.: Great Surveys of the American West, 1980 Black, Robert C. III: Island in the Rockies - The History of Grand County, Colorado, to 1930, 1969 Dawson, Thomas F.: Interview with James H. Crawford, Colorado State Historical Society, 1923 Ellis, David H. and Ellis, Catherine H.: Images of America Steamboat Springs, 2009 Farnham, Thomas J.: Travels in the Great Western Prairies, The Anahuac and Rocky Mountains, and in the Oregon Territory, Vol I, 1843 Fremont, Brevet Captain John Charles: Report of the Exploring Expedition to The Rocky Mountains in the year 1942 and to Oregon and North California in the years 1843-'44, 1845 Graham, C. C.: Steamboat Springs, 1888 [see 1888 Steamboat Springs brochure; also reprinted in Routt Co. Sentinel March 29, 1907) Hafen, LeRoy R.: With Fur Traders in Colorado, : The Journal of E. Willard Smith, 1988 Hayden, F. V.: 12th annual report of the United States Geological and geographical survey of the territories for the Years 1867, 1868, and 1869, 1873 Leckenby, Charles H.: The Tread of Pioneers, Steamboat Springs: The Steamboat Pilot, 1945 Marcy, Colonel R. B.: Thirty Years of Army Life on the Border,1866 Montgomery, Cle L.: The History of Routt County, Greeley: masters thesis for Colorado State College of Education, 1938 Powell, Lee A.: Steamboat Springs: the First Forty Years, 1972 Pritchett, Lulita Crawford: Maggie By My Side, 1976 Pritchett, Lulita Crawford: Crawford Pioneer Tales, 2005 Rankin, M. Wilson: Reminiscences of Frontier Days, 1938 [reprinted in Red Twilight by Val FitzPatrick, 2000 Roberts, Jack: The Amazing Adventures of Lord Gore: A True Saga from the Old West, 1977 Sage, Rufus B.: Rocky Mountain Life; or Startling Scenes and

12 Perilous Adventures in the Far West, 1846 Stanko, Jim; Towler, Sureva; and Seligson, Judy: The Historical Guide to Routt County, Steamboat Springs: Tread of Pioneers Museum, 1979 Victor, Frances Fuller: The River of the West: The Adventures of Joe Meek; The Mountain Years, 1870 Wislizenus, F. A.: A journey to the Rocky Mountains in the year 1839 (Chapter 17), 1912