အ မ ရ ပ ရ. The Journey to. Amerapoora. In Amerapoora, The Sleeping Capital in Myanmar History.

Transcription

1 အ မ ရ ပ ရ The Journey to Amerapoora In 1855 Amerapoora, The Sleeping Capital in Myanmar History. 1

2 Dedicated to Our People. First Collection : August

3 Especially Thank to British Library Who keeps the Photographs And The Photographer Linnaeus Tripe Who took the Photographs in The Photographs and Information are downloaded from British Library. 3

4 ဓ တ ပ မ တ တမ မ အ ၾက င အက ဥ ၁၈၅၂ ခ စ တ င ဖစ ပ ခ သ မန မ - အ ဂ လ ပ ဒ တ ယ စစ ပ ပ ဆ ခ န ၁၈၅ ၃ ခ စ တ င မ င တ န မ င သည အ မ ရပ ရထ နန က သ မ ပ က ပ နန တက လ ခ သ ည ၁၈၅၅ ခ စ တ င ဘ ရ င ခ ဒ လ ဟ ဇ (D al h ou s i e ) က အ သ ဖယ ရ (Arth u r Ph ay re ) ဥ ဆ င သည သ အ ဖ ႕တစ ဖ ႕ က မ င တ န မ င အ ပ စ န သည အ ထက မန မ င င အ မ ရပ ရ မ ႕ တ သ ႔ စလ တ ခ သည အ ထက မန မ င င စစ ရ က က ယ ရ စ ပ ရ လ မ ရ အ ခအ န သတင အ ရပ ရပ တ ႔က ထ က လ မ မ တ တမ တင ရန အ တ က ဓ တ ပ ဆရ တစ ဥ င ပန ခ ဆရ တစ ဥ တ ႔က သ အ ဖ ႕၀င မ အ ဖစ လ က ပ စ ခ သည ဓ တ ပ ဆရ မ L i n n ae u s Tri pe ဖစ သည သ သည ခရ စ ဥ တ လ က ဓ တ ပ ပ င ၂၀၀ က ရ က က ခ ပ ထ အ ထ မ ပ ပ င ၁၂၀ က ထ တ ၀ခ သည ဤမ တ တမ တ င ထ ပ ၁၂၀ က ဗ တ သ စ ၾကည တ က မ ဖ ပထ သည န ပ တ အ စ အ စ ဥ အ တ င ပ င ဖ ပထ ပ သည ဓ တ ပ မ အ ၾက င ရ င လင ထ သည မ က လည မ ရ င အ တ င က ယ ဖ ပထ ပ သည ခရ စ ဥ ဓ တ ပ မ အ စ အ စ ဥ က ပ ည မ ႕မ စတင ထ ပ အ ထက မန မ ပ ည တ လ က သရ က ရန ခ င ပ ဂ အ မ ရပ ရ စစ က င မ င က န စ သည ဖ င အ လယ အ ဆ က ရန က န ပ မ ဖ င သတ ထ ပ သ ည ပန ခ ဆရ မ Col e s worth y G ran t ဖစ သည သ သည အ ထက မန မ ပည လမ ပန အ ခအ န ရ ခ င ပန ခ က မ င လ ပ ဂ လ မ ပ တ ပန ခ က မ က ရ ဆ ခ သ ည ထ အ ထ မ ပန ခ က ၁၀၆ က က ထ တ ၀ခ သည ထ ပန ခ က မ က ပန ခ က မ မ တ တမ ဖ င ဖ ပမ ည ဖစ ပ သည မ င တ န မ င သည မ လ မ ႕က အ သစ တည က အ မ ရပ ရ မ ႕က စ န ႔ခ ပ မ လ မ ႕သ ႔ ၁၈၅၇ ခ စ ဇ န လတ င ပ င ရ ႕ခ ဗ တ သ စ ၾကည တ က မ ဖ ပထ သည စ လ ပ င မ ရ င သတ ပ အ တ င Ame rapoor a က သ စ ထ ပ သည ၁၉ ရ စ အ လယ ၁၈၅၅ ခ စ ၀န က င က မန မ င င ဘ သ ရ အ ဆ က အ ဥ မ ယဥ က မ အ ပ ည လက ရ မ တ င ပ ည အ ခခ အ ဆ က အ ဥ မ စစ ဖက ဆ င ရ က က ယ ရ မ စ ပ ရ အ ခအ နမ မ င င ပ ည သ တ ႔ လ နမ ပ စ မ စ သည တ ႔က ဆန စစ လ သ မ အ လ ယ တက လ လ င စ ရန ဓ တ ပ မ က တစ န ရ တည မ စ စ ည ထ ခင သ ဖစ ပ သည ရည ည န - တ င သမန ရ အ င က လည င ဆ တ မ သန တင သမ င ထ က မ လ မ လ ထ က သမ င မ သန တင 4

5 About the Photographer (From wikipedia) Linnaeus Tripe (14 April March 1902) He was a British photographer, best known for his photographs of India and Burma taken in the 1850s. His works are on display at the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco. He was born in Devonport, Devon, UK. He joined the East India Company army in 1838 and became a lieutenant in 1840 based in the south of India. He returned to England in 1850 on leave which was extended due to ill health until During this time he began to experiment with photography. He returned to Bangalore, India, as a captain in June In December of that year he made his first photographs of India. In February of the following year he took part in the "Madras Exhibition of Raw Products, Arts, and Manufactures of Southern India" displaying 68 photographs of previously unphotographed temples. These photographs were declared to be the "best series of photographic views on paper" by the jury. In June 1855 Tripe accompanied an official expedition to Burma to obtain representations of scenes and buildings. The result of this visit was the publication of Burma Views. This was widely distributed and very well received. In March 1857 he became official photographer to the Madras government, taking photographs of objects shown at the Madras exhibition and portraits of Madras residents. In 1858 he took photographs of subjects with architectural or antiquarian interest, and also those which would be useful from a practical, engineering perspective. He exhibited 50 photographs from this tour in the annual exhibition of the Madras Photographic Society in Following the 1857 uprising, control of India went to the British Crown, and in June 1859 Tripe was ordered not to undertake any new work. At the end of that year he was told to close the business and sell off the equipment. In 1863 Tripe returned to the army and was continually promoted, becoming colonel in August Whilst in Lower Burma in February 1869 he made his two final series of photographs. Here he took photographs of landscapes made on glass negatives. Tripe left India in 1873 and retired from the Army in April He died in Devonport on 2 March

6 Linnaeus Tripe (14 April March 1902) 6

7 In 1855, following the conclusion of the Anglo-Burmese War of 1852, a diplomatic mission was sent by the Indian Government to the Burmese court at Ava. The expedition offered rare access to the little known territories of Upper Burma, and was accompanied by officers instructed to gather information on all aspects of Burmese life. Included in the contingent as official photographer was the Madras Army officer Linnaeus Tripe, who, in the course of the journey up the Irrawaddy River, took over 200 photographs on large paper negatives. 120 of these prints, which are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma, were later issued in portfolio form by the Madras Government. This view is one of an extensive series of architectural studies taken at the ancient royal capital of Pagan. (From British Library) 7

8 Content Page No. 1. Prome. General View. (Pyay) 12 No. 2. Prome. North entrance to the Shwe San-dau Pagoda. 13 No. 3. Prome. West Entrance to the Shwe San-dau Pagoda. 14 No. 4. Prome. A small Pagoda. 15 No. 5. Prome. A small Pagoda. 16 No. 6. Thayet Myo. Pagoda on the S. of Cantonment. 17 No. 7. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Pagoda and Kyoung. 18 No. 8. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Kyoung. 19 No. 9. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Balcony of a Kyoung. 20 No. 10. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Tamarind tree. 21 No. 11. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Chatty Manufactory. 22 No. 12. Tantabeng. Group of Pagodas. 23 No. 13. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Sheen-byeen-baudi Pagoda [Mahabodhi Pagoda]. 24 No. 14. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Shwe-Koo Pagoda. [Shwegugyi Pagoda] 25 No. 15. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Thapinyu Pagoda. [That-byin-nu] 26 No. 16. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Pato-budho-nya Pagoda. [Pahtothamya] 28 No. 17. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Gauda-palen Pagoda. [Gawdawpalin Temple] 29 No. 18. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Distant view of Gauda-palen. [Gawdawpalin] 30 No. 19. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Ananda Pagoda. 31 No. 20. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Kyoung near the Ananda Pagoda. 32 No. 21. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. East facade of Damayangyee Pagoda. [Dhamma-yan-gyi Temple] No. 22. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Flat Arch in Damayangyee Pagoda. [Dhamma-yan-gyi] 35 No. 23. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Figures in Damayangyee Pagoda. [Dhamma-yan-gyi] 37 No. 24. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Entrance to the Shwe Zeegong Pagoda. 38 No. 25. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Carved doorway. 40 No. 26. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. A small Pagoda. 42 No. 27. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Pagoda in ruins. 38 No. 28. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Tazaung. 44 No. 29. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. A roadway. 45 8

9 No. 30. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Ruined Tazaung. 46 No. 31. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Litters under a shed. 47 No. 32. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Doorway of a small Pagoda. 49 No. 33. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Zayat. 50 No. 34. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. View near the River. 51 No. 35. Tsaing Myo [Sagaing]. Kowa-doung Pagoda. 52 No. 36. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Water Pots. 53 No. 37. Ava. Tower of the Palace. 55 No. 38. Amerapoora. Portico of the Residency. 57 No. 39. Amerapoora. West Gate of the Residency Enclosure. 58 No. 40. Amerapoora. Barracks of the Burmese Guard. 59 No. 41. Amerapoora. East Door of the Maha-thugea-yan-tee Pagoda [Kyauktawgyi Pagoda]. No. 42. Amerapoora. Mygabhoodee-tee Kyoung from E. 61 No. 43. Amerapoora. Corner of Mygabhoodee Kyoung. 62 No. 44. Amerapoora. View at N. end of the Wooden Bridge 63 No. 45. Amerapoora. Wooden Bridge. 64 No. 46. Amerapoora. Colossal Statue of Gautama close to the North end of the bridge. No. 47. Amerapoora. Gateway behind the Statue. 66 No. 48. Amerapoora. View amongst the Pagodas near the Statue [of Gautama]. 67 No. 49. Amerapoora. Mhoo-daughee Pagoda[Kaunghmudaw Pagoda, Sagaing]. 69 No. 50. Amerapoora. Thamboukday Pagoda. [Thanbodde Paya] 71 No. 51. Amerapoora. Sekia Pagoda. 73 No. 52. Amerapoora. Mosque. 74 No. 53. Amerapoora. Nagayoung Pagoda. [Naga-yon temple] 76 No. 54. Amerapoora. Bodan Pagoda. 78 No. 55. Amerapoora. Toung-lay-tiy Kyoung. 79 No. 56. Amerapoora. View on the Lake. 80 No. 57. Amerapoora. Street in the Suburbs. 81 No. 58. Amerapoora. S.E. Corner of the City Wall. 82 No. 59. Amerapoora. S. Ditch of the City Wall. 83 No. 60. Amerapoora. Gateway of Maha Bounghian Kyoung. 84 No. 61. Amerapoora. Hut near Maha Bounghian Kyoung. 85 9

10 No. 62. Amerapoora. Magwe Wundouk Kyoung. 86 No. 63. Amerapoora. Pyee-dyk kyoung. 87 No. 64. Amerapoora. Mohdee Kyoung. 88 No. 65. Amerapoora. Mohdee Kyoung. 89 No. 66. Amerapoora. Shwe-doung-dyk Pagoda. 90 No. 67. Amerapoora. Ouk Kyoung. [Maha Aungmye Bonzan at Ava] 91 No. 68. Amerapoora. Wild Elephant Palace. 92 No. 69. Amerapoora. Ooh-nein Gate of the City. 93 No. 70. Amerapoora. Guardhouse, at the Ooh-nein Gate. 94 No. 71. Amerapoora. A street leading to the Palace. 95 No. 72. [unnumbered]. Amerapoora. The Yoom-dau. 97 No. 73. Amerapoora. Palace of the White Elephant. 98 No. 74. Amerapoora. Gautama's Shrine. 100 No. 75. Amerapoora. A street in the city. 102 No. 76. Amerapoora. Sindu Shwe koo Pagoda. 103 No. 77. Amerapoora. The Kings' Water Palace. 104 No. 78. Amerapoora. Entrance of the Aracan Pagoda. 106 No. 79. Amerapoora. Aracan Pagoda. 107 No. 80. Amerapoora. Kyoung near the Aracan Pagoda. 108 No. 81 Amerapoora. My-an-dyk Kyoung. 110 No. 82. Amerapoora. Seboutkya Kyoung. 111 No. 83. Amerapoora. Maha-oung-meeay-liy-mhan Kyoung. 112 No. 84. Amerapoora. Steps on the South side of Kyoung No No. 85. Amerapoora. Part of Balcony on S. side of Kyoung No. 83 [Maha-oung-meeay-liy-mhan Kyoung]. 114 No. 86. Amerapoora. Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung. 115 No. 87. Amerapoora. Pyathat on East of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. No. 88. Amerapoora. Doorway of Pyathat No. 87 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. 118 No. 89. Amerapoora. A doorway of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. 119 No. 90. Amerapoora. Front of the West part of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. 122 No. 91. Amerapoora. Balcony of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]

11 No. 92. Amerapoora. Another part of the balcony of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. 125 No. 93. Amerapoora. Entrance of a Kyoung. 126 No. 94. Amerapoora. Pyathat of Kyoung No. 93 [Maha Too Lo Bounghian Kyaung]. 127 No. 95. Amerapoora. Balcony of a small Kyoung. 129 No. 96. Mengoon [Mingun]. Ruined Griffins. 130 No. 97. Mengoon [Mingun]. Pagoda from North West. 131 No. 98. Mengoon [Mingun]. Pagoda from South East. 132 No. 99. Mengoon. Small bell in front of Pagoda. 133 No Rangoon. Patent slip. 134 No Rangoon. A Street; old Style. 135 No Rangoon. Signal Pagoda. 136 No Rangoon. The Church. 137 No Rangoon. The Lake. 138 No Rangoon. View of the Cantonment. 139 No Rangoon. Shwe Dagon Pagoda. 140 No Rangoon. South Entrance of Shwe Dagon Pagoda. 141 No Rangoon. North Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. 142 No Rangoon. South Tazoung of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. 143 No Rangoon. Side view of East Tazoung [Shwe Dagon Pagoda]. 145 No Rangoon. Henzas [hinthas or hamsas] on the East side of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. No Rangoon. Great Bell of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. 147 No Rangoon. The Votive Tree. 148 No Rangoon. Rear View of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. 150 No Rangoon. Small Pagoda [on platform of Shwe Dagon]. 152 No Rangoon. Portico of the West Entrance of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. 154 No Rangoon. Natural Bridge. 155 No Rangoon. Mission House at Kemindine. 156 No Rangoon. Tiger Alley

12 No. 1. Prome. General View. (Pyay) Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a panoramic view looking over the town of Prome (Pyay) in Burma (Myanmar) towards the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, from a portfolio of 120 prints. With the ending of the Second Anglo-Burmese War in 1852 and the British annexation of Pegu, the East India Company instructed the Governor-General Lord Dalhousie to persuade King Mindon Min to sign a treaty formally acknowledging the extension of British rule over the province. An abortive embassy sent to Calcutta by the King in late 1854 to negotiate the return of Pegu yielded no concrete results, and in the following year Dalhousie (with no great hope of success), despatched a British mission to attempt to negotiate a settlement. This was headed by Arthur Phayre, with Henry Yule (Under-Secretary of the Public Works Department) as Secretary. Part of the mission's instructions was to obtain accurate information about the country, culture and people of a land little-known to Europeans, and to this end Colesworthy Grant was sent as artist and Linnaeus Tripe as photographer to the mission. Tripe took some 200 architectural and topographical photographs during his time in Burma and notwithstanding his disclaimer below, many are of a very high photographic standard in addition to their documentary importance as among the earliest surviving photographs of several parts of Burma. Tripe wrote of his work: 'The accompanying views, taken by the undersigned when attached to the Embassy to Amerapoora in 1855, in justice to him as a photographer employed by the Government of India, should not be looked upon as a challenge to photographic criticism; but as a series of views of subjects interesting on account of their novelty; many having been retained solely on that account when they would certainly have been otherwise discarded. As excuses, too, for these defective photographs he would wish it known, that he was working against time; and frequently with no opportunity of replacing poor proofs by better. Also that, from unfavourable weather, sickness, and the circumstances unavoidably attending such a mission, his actual working time was narrowed to thirty six days. If criticism be provoked, it is 12

13 trusted that her chiding will be mild. [Signed] L. Tripe Bangalore 20th Feby/57.' The letterpress accompanying this photograph says: 'Taken from a height S.E. of the town. The Pagoda on the hill to the right, is the Shwe San-dau, or 'Golden Hair' one of the most sacred places in Burmah. It enshrines a hair of Gautama'. No. 2. Prome. North entrance to the Shwe San-dau Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the north entrance of the Shwesandaw Paya (Pagoda) at Prome (Pyay) in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The photographer wrote, 'Burmese temples are usually, if the ground permit, on heights, the approach being by a flight of steps, guarded by Griffins [chinthes]: that shown above is very fine, the Griffins are eighty feet high, and with the carved gables of the roof, bristling with gilded vanes, form a magnificent approach to the golden Pagoda above'. Pyay lies on a bend of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, and near it are the ruins of the ancient Pyu capital of Sri Kshetra (Thayekhittaya), an important archaeological site of Myanmar. The stupa or zedi of Shwesandaw is the main point of interest in Pyay, perched on top of a hill. The name refers to the 'Golden Hair Relics' and legend states that the stupa was built to house the hairs of the Buddha over 2000 years ago. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, 13

14 the current structure dates from much later. Shwesandaw is believed to be the first monument built by King Anawrahta after his conquest of Thaton and the Mons in No. 3. Prome. West Entrance to the Shwe San-dau Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the west entrance of the Shwesandow Paya (Pagoda) at Prome in Burma, from a portfolio of 120 prints. Pyay lies on a bend of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, and near it are the ruins of the ancient Pyu capital of Sri Kshetra (Thayekhittaya), an important archaeological site of Myanmar. The stupa or zedi of Shwesandaw is the main point of interest in Pyay, perched on top of a hill. The name refers to the 'Golden Hair Relics' and legend states that the stupa was built to house the hairs of the Buddha over 2000 years ago. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, the current structure dates from much later. Shwesandaw is believed to be the first monument built by King Anawrahta after his conquest of Thaton and the Mons in

15 No. 4. Prome. A small Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a small temple at Prome (Pyay) in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer in the Madras Infantry, was attached to a British diplomatic mission to the Burmese court in 1855, the purpose of which was to persuade King Mindon Min to ratify the peace treaty of his predecessor Pagan Min who had signed away the province of Pegu at the conclusion of the Anglo-Burmese war of In the words of Lord Dalhousie explaining the mission to his superiors in London: 'such officers should be chosen for this purpose as shall be capable, in various ways, of collecting and furnishing information to the Government upon all points, on which it may be of advantage hereafter to possess accurate knowledge, and which may be useful also for our future purposes.' Tripe's portfolio, produced for government purposes, comprises the first extensive photographic record produced in Myanmar. He was one of the early pioneers of 19 th century architectural and landscape photography, his preferred subject matter. He wrote of this view, 'This and No. 5 are close together in an open space near the house in which Captain Latter was murdered'. Captain Thomas Latter was a junior officer with the East India Company and interpreter with a British mission led by Commodore Lambert which investigated charges made by British merchants against Maung Ok, 15

16 the Burmese governor of Rangoon. He was a key player in the discord between Burmese and British authorities which eventually led to the second Anglo-Burmese war. No. 5. Prome. A small Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a small temple at Prome (Pyay) in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer in the Madras Infantry, was attached to a British diplomatic mission to the Burmese court in 1855, the purpose of which was to persuade King Mindon Min to ratify the peace treaty of his predecessor Pagan Min who had signed away the province of Pegu at the conclusion of the Anglo-Burmese war of In the words of Lord Dalhousie explaining the mission to his superiors in London: 'such officers should be chosen for this purpose as shall be capable, in various ways, of collecting and furnishing information to the Government upon all points, on which it may be of advantage hereafter to possess accurate knowledge, and which may be useful also for our future purposes.' Tripe's portfolio, produced for government purposes, comprises the first extensive photographic record produced in Myanmar. He was one of the early pioneers of 19 th century architectural and 16

17 landscape photography, his preferred subject matter. He wrote of this view, 'The carved wood work of this has been stripped off. The centre building is of white stucco, gilt in the ornamental parts'. No. 6. Thayet Myo. Pagoda on the S. of Cantonment. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a small temple at Prome (Pyay) in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the government to collect both cultural and practical information regarding the little known country. The mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. 17

18 Thayetmyo was a town strategically located on the right bank of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) just south of the border between Upper and Lower Burma, about 60 miles north of Prome and with water communication to Rangoon (Yangon). Hence it was the British base in the efforts to master Upper Burma. No. 7. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Pagoda and Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a kyaung or monastery at Ye nang yaung in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe was the official photographer on a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Yenangyaung was a town in west-central Myanmar on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy), the centre of the most productive oil-fields in the country. 18

19 No. 8. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a close view of the kyaung or monastery at Yenangyaung in Burma (Myanmar), showing the intricate carved decoration of the tiered roof and balustrade, from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe was the official photographer on a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Yenangyaung was a town in west-central Myanmar on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy), the centre of the most productive oil-fields in the country. Tripe wrote, 'This monastery is a fine specimen of provincial architecture'. 19

20 No. 9. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Balcony of a Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a close view of a balcony of the kyaung or monastery at Yenangyaung in Burma (Myanmar), showing the intricate carved decoration, from a portfolio of 120 prints. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect both cultural and practical information regarding the little known country. The mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant to perform their duties. Tripe declared the wood-carving on the balcony of the monastery, 'Quite Burmese in its grotesqueness'. Yenangyaung is a town in west-central Myanmar on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy), long the centre of the most productive oil-fields in the country. 20

21 No. 10. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Tamarind tree. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a tamarind tree, with a pagoda on the hillside in the background, at Yenangyaung in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo- Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Yenangyaung was a town in west-central Myanmar on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy), the centre of the most productive oil-fields in the country. Tamarind is commonly used in Burmese cuisine and the tamarind tree is widespread in Burma. It is also used as raw material in joss-stick production 21

22 No. 11. Ye-nan-gyoung [Yenangyaung]. Chatty Manufactory. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a pottery at Yenangyaung in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo- Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Yenangyaung was a town in west-central Myanmar on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy), long the centre of the most productive oil-fields in the country. This view of a pottery with thatched buildings and a pile of chatties or round earthenware pots lying in the foreground has an accompanying letterpress which states, 'Petroleum is exported from Ye-nan-gyoung (whence its name river of fetid water) in pots such as represented above'. 22

23 No. 12. Tantabeng. Group of Pagodas. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of three ruined temples at Tantabeng in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. A trip to Tantabeng a few miles north of Yenangyaung on the east bank of the Irrawaddy (just visible in the background of this picture) is mentioned in Yule's narrative 'Mission to the Court of Ava in 1855', and Tantabeng is marked (with a question mark) on the map in that volume. A brief description of the monuments is given at p.34 of Yule's narrative. The text accompanying the photograph in Tripe's portfolio states, 'These buildings are in a remarkable and ancient style, seen more highly developed at Pugahm [Pagan or Bagan]. The interiors are painted; and almost by the designs remind one of Byzantine frescoes rudely copied'. Tripe, an officer in the Madras Infantry, was attached to the British diplomatic mission to the Burmese court in 1855, the purpose of which was to persuade King Mindon Min to ratify the peace treaty of his predecessor Pagan Min who had signed away the province of Pegu at the conclusion of the Anglo-Burmese war of The mission was headed by Arthur Phayre with Henry Yule as Secretary. In the words of Lord Dalhousie explaining the mission to his superiors in London: 'such officers should be chosen for this purpose as shall be capable, in various ways, of collecting and furnishing information to the 23

24 Government upon all points, on which it may be of advantage hereafter to possess accurate knowledge, and which may be useful also for our future purposes.' Tripe's portfolio, produced for government purposes, comprises the first extensive photographic record produced in Burma. No.13. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Sheen-byeen-baudi Pagoda [Mahabodhi Pagoda]. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Mahabodhi temple at Bagan (Pagan) in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect both cultural and practical information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. 24

25 Tripe writes of this view, 'A peculiar specimen of Pugahm architecture rather Hindoo-like in style. The spire and walls outside are crowded with figures of Gautama in niches. In the enclosure in front are some fifty ancient inscribed stones. It dates from about 1200 A.D.' The Burmese Mahabodhi temple is modelled on the temple of the same name built at the spot in Bodh Gaya in India where the Buddha attained enlightenment in 6th century BC. The 140 foot high brick and stucco structure has a large square pyramidal tower topped by a conical spire and umbrella and was built in the reign of Nadaungmya ( ). Its stuccoed exterior is ornamented with numerous niches containing over 450 Buddha images. No. 14. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Shwe-Koo Pagoda. [Shwegugyi Pagoda] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Shwegugyi temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. 25

26 The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. The Shwegugyi or Great Golden Cave is not one of the largest of Pagan's monuments but is an elegant structure on a high brick platform with its history recorded on two stone slabs set in the inner walls. The inscription dates the building to 1131 and states that the construction took only seven and a half months. It is considered one of the finest poetic works in Burmese literature. Tripe wrote of this view, 'Or 'Golden Cave'. A good miniature specimen of the most decorated style of Pugahm architecture. It contains some remarkable inscriptions, and dates from around A.D. 1500'. The Shwegugyi's donor was Alaungsitthu (ruled ). No. 15. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Thapinyu Pagoda. [That-byin-nu] 26

27 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the That-byin-nu temple in the Pagan (Bagan)region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. Tripe wrote of the That-byin-nu, 'Or 'the Omniscient'. It is about 230 feet square, and 200 feet high; divided into two stages, each stage into two stories. An arched corridor passes round each stage, with arched doorways opening outwards; opposite those on the ground story are sitting figures of Gautama. In the centre of each side of the lower stage, is a projecting wing with a lofty doorway, opening into a vestibule: this forms a centre porch to the corridor, a colossal seated figure of Gautama facing it. The centre of the building is a solid mass of masonry terminated by a bulging pyramidal spire crowned by a tee. Its date is about 1100 A.D.' The temple is the tallest construction in Pagan, towering to 61 ms. Built by King Alaungsitthu in the middle of the 12th century, its square plan is the most elaborate of the middle period of building in Pagan (ca ). 27

28 No. 16. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Pato-budho-nya Pagoda. [Pahtothamya] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Pahtothamya temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. Tripe wrote of the Pahtothamya temple, 'Apparently one of the most ancient of these temples; and probably dating from the tenth century'. 28

29 Scholars locate this temple to the Early Period of building in Pagan and interpret its name, Temple of Great Fruitfulness, to indicate that it is the symbol of the spread of Theravada Buddhism in Pagan in the 11th century. No. 17. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Gauda-palen Pagoda. [Gawdawpalin Temple] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Gawdawpalin temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. 29

30 They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. One of the most beautiful and graceful of Pagan's temples, the Late Period Gawdawpalin or Throne of Obeisance was begun in the reign of Narapatisithu ( ) and completed by Nadaungmya (ruled ). No. 18. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Distant view of Gauda-palen. [Gawdawpalin] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a distant view of the Gawdawpalin temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. 30

31 The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. One of the most beautiful and graceful of Pagan's temples, the Late Period Gawdawpalin or Throne of Obeisance was begun in the reign of Narapatisithu ( ) and completed by Nadaungmya (ruled ). Tripe wrote, 'Taken from the top of Thapinyu. [That-byin-nu]. The ruins of all shapes and sizes seen in this view, give an idea of the manner in which they are scattered for about eight miles along the river [the Irrawaddy], to a depth of sometimes three miles'. No. 19. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Ananda Pagoda. 31

32 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Ananda temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. Tripe wrote of the Ananda, 'It was built about A.D. 1060, and restored during the present century and is now in perfect repair. The chant of the worshippers, the lofty aisles with their long vistas, make this building resemble a Christian Cathedral rather than a Heathen Temple'. One of the most venerated of Pagan's temples, the Ananda commemorates Buddha's Infinite Wisdom (Anantapanna). Its style is of the Early Period and it is dated to ca No. 20. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Kyoung near the Ananda Pagoda. 32

33 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a general view of the kyaung or monastery attached to the Ananda Pagoda in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. Tripe wrote of this kyaung, 'Has some fine carvings about it; and attached to it, is a small building of masonry, the interior of which is covered with paintings, representing the Burmese Hell called Ngara, and the Paradise of the Nats. Sawing asunder, pounding in a mortar, are amongst the punishments of the former. The happiness of the latter seems to consist in ease, numerous attendants, and viewing sports, dancing, &c.' 33

34 No. 21. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. East facade of Damayangyee Pagoda. [Dhammayan-gyi Temple] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Dhamma-yan-gyi temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. 34

35 Tripe found that the Dhamma-yan-gyi, ' is one of the best examples of design, and in some parts of it, of workmanship at Pugahm...' He continued, 'In the vestibule on the east face, the vaulting of brickwork has been laid bare, and shows less careful work in that important part, than in the walls below. This, with its having been more neglected than the other temples, may account for its dilapidated condition. The central aisles have been blocked up, but not so carefully as to escape notice. This shuts up all the centre of the building; for what purpose is unknown. A strong wall 12 feet high, surrounds it. It dates from about the year 1154 A.D.' Noted for its fine brickwork, the powerful shape of this massive temple is one of the most enigmatic in Pagan, both its history and its architecture have afforded scholars much debate. Built in the late 12th century, possibly by Narapatisithu, the interior has been blocked up by brickwork for some unknown reason. No. 22. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Flat Arch in Damayangyee Pagoda. [Dhammayan-gyi] 35

36 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of an arch of the Dhamma-yan-gyi temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. Noted for its fine brickwork, the powerful shape of this massive temple is one of the most enigmatic in Pagan, both its history and its architecture have afforded scholars much debate. Built in the late 12th century, possibly by Narapatisithu, the interior has been blocked up by brickwork for some unknown reason. Tripe wrote of this view, 'The flat arch here seen is well worth notice. How did the art of it get to Pugahm in the 12th century?' 36

37 No. 23. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Figures in Damayangyee Pagoda. [Dhammayan-gyi] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of sculptures of the Dhamma-yan-gyi temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. 37

38 Noted for its fine brickwork, the powerful shape of the Dhamma-yan-gyi is one of the most enigmatic in Pagan, both its history and its architecture have afforded scholars much debate. Built in the late 12th century, possibly by Narapatisithu, the interior has been blocked up by brickwork for some unknown reason. Linnaeus Tripe wrote of these four figures, 'These are in the east vestibule. They represent four favourite disciples of Gautama seated, a lotus flower being the footstool of each. There were two smaller figures (one only remains) kneeling on the lotus, intimating perhaps that as the disciples of Gautama adored him so they in turn were adored by ordinary mortals'. No. 24. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Entrance to the Shwe Zeegong Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the entrance to the Shwezigon temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. 38

39 The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. This view of the Shwezigon Pagoda shows the massive Burmese temple guardian figures, also known as chinthes, or leogryphs. Tripe wrote, 'Shwe Zeegong is one of the most favourite places of worship in Burmah. It contains a facsimile of one of Gautama's teeth. It dates from about A.D. 1064'. An important place of pilgrimage in Pagan, the Shwezigon's lower terraces were apparently built by Anawrahta (ruled ) and the rest of the edifice was built by Kyanzittha (ruled ). 39

40 No. 25. Pugahm Myo [Pagan]. Carved doorway. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a carved doorway of the Shwezigon temple in the Pagan (Bagan) region of Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. With this portfolio of 40

41 architectural and topographical views, Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, created an early photographic record of Burma. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese king Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of It was also the intention of the British to collect information about the country. They travelled in Burma from August to early November 1855, stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Capital of the first kingdom of Burma from the 11th to the 14th century, Pagan is one of the most important archaeological sites in South East Asia, with the remains of over 2000 stupas, temples and monasteries scattered over a 30 km radius. An important place of pilgrimage in Pagan, the Shwezigon's lower terraces were apparently built by Anawrahta (ruled ) and the rest of the edifice was built by Kyanzittha (ruled ). Tripe wrote of this picture, 'This is in the Court of Shwe Zeegong. It is ruinous and out of the perpendicular, but very interesting, and, being one of many in the same court and all differing, shows how fertile in design the Burmese are'. 41

42 No. 26. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. A small Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a stupa at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the british annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma where people come to meditate. Sagaing is popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. 42

43 No. 27. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Pagoda in ruins. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a ruined pagoda or stupa at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. Sagaing is popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. 43

44 No. 28. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Tazaung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a tazaung at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. People come from all over the country to meditate at Sagaing, popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. 44

45 Tripe wrote of this tazaung, an open-sided wooden structure with a series of sloping roofs, 'This is rather Moresco in character; I do not remember having seen a similar building in Burmah'. A tazaung is an adoration hall where people offer flowers, light candles and joss sticks and pray before rows of Buddhas. No. 29. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. A roadway. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a road at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), 45

46 Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. People come from all over the country to meditate at Sagaing, popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. No. 30. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Ruined Tazaung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a dilapidated tazaung at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. A tazaung is an adoration hall or idol house where people offer flowers, light candles and joss sticks and pray before rows of Buddhas. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo- Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered 46

47 around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. People come from all over the country to meditate at Sagaing, popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. No. 31. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Litters under a shed. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of some sedan chairs in a shed at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the 47

48 country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. People come from all over the country to meditate at Sagaing, popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. Linnaeus Tripe wrote of these intricately-carved wooden sedan chairs, 'These were left by will to the Aong-mre-lo-ka Pagoda [Aungmyelawka Paya] near them, by members of the Royal family; equipages belonging to them, being considered too sacred to be used by others after their death, are presented to the Temples. They are of great size and weight, and would require about forty men to carry them'. 48

49 No. 32. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Doorway of a small Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the entrance of a small pagoda at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints.in 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe, an officer of the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer on this mission, and his architectural and topographical views of the country are an important early photographic record of Burma. He wrote of this view, 'A very fair specimen of a style of architectural decoration in Burmah'. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. People come from all over the country to meditate at Sagaing, popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. 49

50 No. 33. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Zayat. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a zayat (an open-sided shelter for travellers) at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. He wrote of this scene, 'Buildings of this kind are both for secular and religious purposes. They are resting places for travellers, refectories for votaries of the Temples near them, and in them the Pungyis or Priests [pongyis], deliver their homilies'. Sagaing became capital of an independent Shan kingdom in 1315, after the fall of Bagan (Pagan) had thrown Burma into chaos. After a few decades, the Shan king shifted to Ava (Inwa) and Sagaing then declined in political importance, only briefly reverting to the capital of the Burman Konbaung dynasty under King Naungdawgyi in the 1760s. It became known more as a religious centre, supporting thousands of monks and nuns. Today, people from all over the country come 50

51 to Sagaing to meditate and it is known as 'Little Bagan' because of the multitudes of temples and monasteries here. No. 34. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. View near the River. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a view at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The view is on the bank of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady), looking towards a building raised on piles over the water. Tripe wrote in the accompanying letterpress, 'The Irrawadi at the time of the freshes, inundates the country from some distance from its banks; the necessity therefore of building on piles, as above seen is very evident'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. 51

52 Sagaing became capital of an independent Shan kingdom in 1315, after the fall of Bagan (Pagan) had thrown Burma into chaos. After a few decades, the Shan king shifted to Ava (Inwa) and Sagaing then declined in political importance, only briefly reverting to the capital of the Burman Konbaung dynasty under King Naungdawgyi in the 1760s. It became known more as a religious centre, supporting thousands of monks and nuns. Today, people from all over the country come to Sagaing to meditate and it is known as 'Little Bagan' because of the multitudes of temples and monasteries here. No. 35. Tsaing Myo [Sagaing]. Kowa-doung Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of pagodas, with the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) visible in the background at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The photographer wrote, 'The terrace, on which this stands, is one of three covered with Pagodas and Kyoungs. On the opposite of the Irrawadi is Ava; the river at this point is about 1100 yards broad'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in

53 Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Mandalay in central Burma was the capital of the last Burmese kingdom. Clustered around it on the banks of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river are other earlier capitals, such as Ava (Inwa), Amarapura and Sagaing. The latter, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. Sagaing is popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. No. 36. Tsagain Myo [Sagaing]. Water Pots. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of water pots on a covered platform at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. 53

54 Tripe wrote, 'It is a frequent thing, in a Burmese thoroughfare to see, placed for the use of passers by, waterpots, suspended from the boughs of trees, or under a carved wooden shed, or in one roughly made as above'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Sagaing became capital of an independent Shan kingdom in 1315, after the fall of Bagan (Pagan) had thrown Burma into chaos. After a few decades, the Shan king shifted to Ava (Inwa) and Sagaing then declined in political importance, only briefly reverting to the capital of the Burman Konbaung dynasty under King Naungdawgyi in the 1760s. It became known more as a religious centre, supporting thousands of monks and nuns. Today, people from all over the country come to Sagaing to meditate and it is known as 'Little Bagan' because of the multitudes of temples and monasteries here. 54

55 No. 37. Ava. Tower of the Palace. 55

56 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a watchtower at Ava (Inwa) in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Tripe described this view of the Nanmyin, a square brick and stucco watchtower, tilting and surrounded by fallen masonry, 'This is the only coherent remains of the palace. The earthquake of 1839 covered the ground with the rest of it and tilted this considerably'. Ava, located south-west of Amarapura at the confluence of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) and the Myitnge rivers, was founded in about 1365 as the third capital of the Shan rulers previously established at Pinya and Sagaing. For the most part of the next five centuries it remained the royal city until finally abandoned as capital in favour of Amarapura. Much of Ava including the 19th century palace of King Bagyidaw at its centre was destroyed in a disastrous earthquake in The Nanmyin is all that remains of the palace although the upper part of this 30 m high masonry tower was destroyed. The lower part leans to one side, earning it the nickname of 'the leaning tower of Ava'. 56

57 No. 38. Amerapoora. Portico of the Residency. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the portico of the British Residency building at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The photographer wrote of this view from the courtyard, looking towards the open-sided portico, 'This covered a square of ninety feet having a dome-like roof of thatched bamboo, and closed on the outer side by a Proscenium for Marionettes, draperied with blue cloth laced with gold and silver.in this portico, the ground being the stage, were performed pu-es (the Burmese opera) for the amusement of members of the mission'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 57

58 No. 39. Amerapoora. West Gate of the Residency Enclosure. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a view from outside the British Residency enclosure at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), looking towards the gate, from a portfolio of 120 prints. The accompanying letterpress states, 'This enclosure was formed by a bamboo wall about eighteen feet high, on the outer side of which was a continuous shed all round except at the east and west sides, in the centre of which were gateways. This shed was a barrack for some 600 Burmese soldiers with their officers, forming the Guard of Honor to the mission'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 58

59 No. 40. Amerapoora. Barracks of the Burmese Guard. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of a view looking along the thatched huts running along the outer wall that served as barracks for the Burmese guard of honour to the British mission staying at the Residency at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Tripe wrote, 'Their arms are tied to the racks, their bandolier-like belts, and red or green lacquered tin chacoes (nearly a wide-awake in shape) hang above. At intervals are the javelins of the subofficers. Between the trees Amerapoora can be seen across the lake.' Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 59

60 No. 41. Amerapoora. East Door of the Maha-thugea-yan-tee Pagoda [Kyauktawgyi Pagoda]. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing a view of the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 an officer from the Madras Infantry, Linneaus Tripe, was attached as official photographer to the diplomatic mission sent from India to the Burmese capital of Amarapura. The mission's goal was two-fold: to negotiate with King Mindon Min his acceptance of British rule over Pegu, and to gather information about the country in every detail. During the journey up the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) from Rangoon to Amarapura, Tripe produced a portfolio of 120 large views of scenery and architecture which are amongst the earliest and finest - surviving images of this then little-known kingdom. A few years after they were taken, the royal capital was transferred 11 km upriver to Mandalay. The letterpress accompanying this views states, 'Near the Residency [where the British Misssion was housed], said to have been built after the plan of the Ananda at Pugahm [Pagan]. There are four entrances like this, the interiors of which are decorated with representations of the worship of Gautama'. The Kyauktawgyi Pagoda (once known as the Maha-thet-kya-yan-ti or 'Great Light of Sakyamuni' after the colossal Buddha image of Sagyin marble housed in it) was built by King Pagan Min in 1847 at one end of a massive wooden bridge spanning the seasonal Taungthaman Lake, and once marked the very edge of Amarapura. It is said to be modelled on the Ananda 60

61 Pagoda at Pagan (Bagan). Its interior is decorated with mural paintings at the eastern and western sides. No. 42. Amerapoora. Mygabhoodee-tee Kyoung from E. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing a kyaung (monastery) near the building where the British delegation was housed at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 an officer from the Madras Infantry, Linneaus Tripe, was attached as official photographer to the diplomatic mission sent from India to the Burmese capital of Amarapura. The mission's goal was two-fold: to negotiate with King Mindon Min his acceptance of British rule over Pegu, and to gather information about the country in every detail. During the journey up the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) from Rangoon (Yangon) to Amarapura, Tripe produced a portfolio of 120 large views of scenery and architecture which are amongst the earliest and finest - surviving images of this then little-known kingdom. A few years after they were taken, the royal capital was transferred 11 km upriver to Mandalay. Tripe wrote of this view, 'This small monastery, near the Residency, attracted much attention from the richness of its carving and the beauty of its situation'. 61

62 No. 43. Amerapoora. Corner of Mygabhoodee Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a close view of the woodcarving at the corner of a kyaung (monastery) near where the British delegation was housed at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 an officer from the Madras Infantry, Linneaus Tripe, was attached as official photographer to the diplomatic mission sent from India to the Burmese capital of Amarapura. The mission's goal was two-fold: to negotiate with King Mindon Min his acceptance of British rule over Pegu, and to gather information about the country in every detail. During the journey up the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) from Rangoon (Yangon) to Amarapura, Tripe produced a portfolio of 120 large views of scenery and architecture which are amongst the earliest and finest - surviving images of this then little-known kingdom. A few years after they were taken, the royal capital was transferred 11 km upriver to Mandalay. Tripe wrote of this kyaung, 'This small monastery, near the Residency, attracted much attention from the richness of its carving and the beauty of its situation'. The Burmese are highly skilled at wood-carving, creating designs of great beauty, intricacy and fluidity. 62

63 No. 44. Amerapoora. View at N. end of the Wooden Bridge Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing a view of the wooden bridge (U Bein Bridge) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 an officer from the Madras Infantry, Linneaus Tripe, was attached as official photographer to the diplomatic mission sent from India to the Burmese capital of Amarapura. The mission's goal was two-fold: to negotiate with King Mindon Min his acceptance of British rule over Pegu, and to gather information about the country in every detail. During the journey up the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) from Rangoon to Amarapura, Tripe produced a portfolio of 120 large views of scenery and architecture which are amongst the earliest and finest - surviving images of this then little-known kingdom. A few years after they were taken, the royal capital was transferred 11 km upriver to Mandalay. While the teak bridge on the left of this photograph still exists, few old buildings in the abandoned capital survive and Tripe s photographs remain the only accurate visual record of the old royal capital. 63

64 No. 45. Amerapoora. Wooden Bridge. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing a view of the wooden bridge at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 an officer from the Madras Infantry, Linneaus Tripe, was attached as official photographer to the diplomatic mission sent from India to the Burmese capital of Amarapura. The mission's goal was two-fold: to negotiate with King Mindon Min his acceptance of British rule over Pegu, and to gather information about the country in every detail. During the journey up the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) from Rangoon (Yangon) to Amarapura, Tripe produced a portfolio of 120 large views of scenery and architecture which are amongst the earliest - and finest - surviving images of this then littleknown kingdom. A few years after they were taken, the royal capital was transferred 11 km upriver to Mandalay. While the U Bein bridge in this photograph still exists, few buildings in the abandoned capital survive and Tripe s photographs remain the only accurate visual record of the old royal capital. The bridge spans the seasonal Taungthaman Lake to the south of Amarapura and is 1.5 kms long. Built by a mayor, U Bein, in 1784, it was constructed from teak posts salvaged from the ruined former capital city of Ava (Inwa). Tripe wrote of this view, 'Carried over the west limb of the Lake on piles about 7 feet apart with some openings (bridged with loose planks) for the passage through of large boats'. 64

65 No. 46. Amerapoora. Colossal Statue of Gautama close to the North end of the bridge. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a statue of the seated Buddha, near the U Bein bridge at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. Tripe wrote of this Buddha surrounded by small pagodas, 'Its height is about 37 and a half feet above the throne'. 65

66 No. 47. Amerapoora. Gateway behind the Statue. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a gateway of a pagoda complex near the U Bein bridge at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 66

67 No. 48. Amerapoora. View amongst the Pagodas near the Statue [of Gautama]. 67

68 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a pagoda complex near the U Bein bridge at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 68

69 No.49. Amerapoora. Mhoo-daughee Pagoda [Kaunghmudaw Pagoda, Sagaing]. 69

70 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Kaungmudaw Pagoda at Sagaing in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints, the stupa partially obscured by a tree in the foreground. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. The 46 m high Kaunghmudaw (the name means 'work of great merit') Pagoda dome rises a few miles north of Sagaing rather than in Amarapura and was built in 1636 by King Thalon to commemorate Ava (Inwa) being re-established as capital. The huge whitewashed dome is said to be modelled after the Mahaceti (Great Stupa) in Sri Lanka although legend also states that it represents the perfect breast of Thalun's queen. Tripe wrote that the structure was, 'Very like the Bilsa Topes described by Major Cunningham. This is however quite modern, having been built by a servant of the present King'. Sagaing, 21 kms south-west of Mandalay, is on the opposite bank of the river from Ava and has long been revered as the religious centre of Burma. People come from all over the country to meditate at Sagaing, popularly described as 'Little Pagan' since there are hundreds of stupas and monasteries at this site. Founded in 1315 by a Shan chieftain, it was capital for only a few decades before the kings shifted to Ava. 70

71 No. 50. Amerapoora. Thamboukday Pagoda. [Thanbodde Paya] 71

72 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the small Thanbodde Pagoda, its surface honeycombed with apertures, at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The Thanbodde Paya (stupa) in Amarapura was built in 1782, with its sides covered by regular tiers of hundreds of small niches, each housing an image of the Buddha. Tripe wrote, 'This curious little pagoda is literally covered with small niches (about 1100) containing figures of Gautama. The worshippers have carried their attentions so far as to give each figure a yellow muslin robe'. 72

73 No. 51. Amerapoora. Sekia Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a general view looking towards the entrance of this elaborately carved temple at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Tripe wrote of this temple, 'This is the resort of Astrologers, (Brahmins, natives of India, or Manipore) who sit on the ground under the spacious colonnades of the Pagoda with mysterious looking scrolls and diagrams before them, quite ready to reward liberality after their own fashion'. 73

74 No. 52. Amerapoora. Mosque. 74

75 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a view looking towards the ornately embellished minaret of a mosque at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. Tripe wrote of this mosque,'this is in China Street. There are some thousands of Mahomedans and numbers of Mosques in and about Amerapoora. The architecture of the latter partakes much of the Burmese element'. 75

76 No. 53. Amerapoora. Nagayoung Pagoda. [Naga-yon temple] 76

77 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe showing the Nagayon temple at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe wrote of this temple, 'This symbolises a legend in the history of Gautama, when he was sheltered by a dragon in its folds'. The large 'naga' or serpent, which gives the unusual early 19th century Nagayon its name, looms protectively up over the shrine which shelters the main image of the Buddha. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 77

78 No. 54. Amerapoora. Bodan Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe showing the Patodawgyi temple at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe was the official photographer accompanying a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. Amarapura was laid out as a vast square, walled and moated. One of the bestknown pagodas of the city is the Patodawgyi, sited just outside the old city wall to the south. It was built by King Bagyidaw in 1820, shortly before he shifted the capital back to Ava. 78

79 No. 55. Amerapoora. Toung-lay-tiy Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission.This view shows close-up detail of carved stonework at the entrance to the kyaung. Tripe wrote, 'Monasteries are usually built of wood, this is of brick, its style too is uncommon in many of its details'. 79

80 No. 56. Amerapoora. View on the Lake. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a general view looking across Taungthaman Lake to the city of Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was designed upon a square mandala, or diagram illustrating cosmological ideas. Each of the twelve city gates, three along each wall, was surmounted by a Burmese style pavilion known as a pyat-that. The city was encircled by a moat, inside which the streets were built upon a grid pattern. The photographer wrote of this view, 'Taken from the causeway crossing the Toung-deman lake at its eastern extremity. A glimpse of the city is caught on the left'. 80

81 No. 57. Amerapoora. Street in the Suburbs. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a view of Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. This view shows a street, with small private houses in the foreground, an open-sided resthouse (zayat) in the centre, and a monastery and temples beyond. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo- Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 81

82 No. 58. Amerapoora. S.E. Corner of the City Wall. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe with a view of the South-East corner of the city wall of Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was designed upon a square mandala, or diagram illustrating cosmological ideas. Each of the twelve city gates, three along each wall, was surmounted by a Burmese style pavilion known as a pyat-that. The city was encircled by a moat, inside which the streets were built upon a grid pattern. Tripe wrote, 'The city is nearly a square of a mile each side surrounded by a brick wall and a wide ditch. A pagoda dominates at each corner'. 82

83 No. 59. Amerapoora. S. Ditch of the City Wall. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe showing the south ditch of the city wall of Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was designed upon a square mandala, or diagram illustrating cosmological ideas. Each of the twelve city gates, three along each wall, was surmounted by a Burmese style pavilion known as a pyatthat. The city was encircled by a moat, inside which the streets were built upon a grid pattern. Linnaeus Tripe wrote of Amarapura, 'The city is nearly a square of a mile each side surrounded by a brick wall and a wide ditch. A pagoda dominates at each corner...the ditch continues for the east, south, and part of the west and north sides. On the latter sides men were at work completing the circuit'. 83

84 No. 60. Amerapoora. Gateway of Maha Bounghian Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the gateway of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. He wrote of this view, 'A solidly built wall usually surrounds kyoungs [Burmese monasteries]; in the centre of each side of which is a gateway similar to the above'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 84

85 No. 61. Amerapoora. Hut near Maha Bounghian Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of hut near a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 85

86 No. 62. Amerapoora. Magwe Wundouk Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. According to Tripe, this monastery was, 'Remarkable for its size and for not having a balcony around it'. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 86

87 No. 63. Amerapoora. Pyee-dyk kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe wrote of these monastery buildings, 'An unusual form of roof as may be seen by comparison with those of other kyoungs'. By which he meant that each decorated roof tier is not separated from its neighbour by a vertical storey, but runs straight into it. Tripe, an officer from the Madras Infantry, was the official photographer attached to a British diplomatic mission to King Mindon Min of Burma in This followed the British annexation of Pegu after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Aside from official duties, the mission was instructed to gather information regarding the country and its people. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 87

88 No. 64. Amerapoora. Mohdee Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese King Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of Its brief was also to collect detailed information about the country. The Mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 88

89 No. 65. Amerapoora. Mohdee Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese King Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of Its brief was also to collect detailed information about the country. The Mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was designed upon a square mandala, or diagram illustrating cosmological ideas. Each of the twelve city gates, three along each wall, was surmounted by a Burmese style pavilion known as a pyat-that. The city was encircled by a moat, inside which the streets were built upon a grid pattern. The accompanying letterpress explains that this view is, 'From the S.E. corner of the enclosure. A good example of a kyoung with its pyat-that [tiered roof]'. 89

90 No. 66. Amerapoora. Shwe-doung-dyk Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of a pagoda at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese King Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of Its brief was also to collect detailed information about the country. The Mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was designed upon a square mandala, or diagram illustrating cosmological ideas. Each of the twelve city gates, three along each wall, was surmounted by a Burmese style pavilion known as a pyat-that. The city was encircled by a moat, inside which the streets were built upon a grid pattern. Tripe wrote, 'This view is from the embankment of a tank North East of the city, much of the carved work has been stripped off the kyoung near the pagoda'. 90

91 No. 67. Amerapoora. Ouk Kyoung. [Maha Aungmye Bonzan at Ava] Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the Maha Aungmye Bonzan kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. Tripe wrote of this kyaung (also known as Ok Kyaung), 'This, as its name signifies, is built of brick (ouk)'. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese King Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of Its brief was also to collect detailed information regarding the little known country. The Mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The brick and stucco monastery in this image was built by the chief queen of King Bagyidaw in It was damaged in the earthquake of 1838 but repaired by the queen of Mindon Min. The main building housed the monks and at one end of it was the shrine room topped by an elegant tiered roof or pyat-that. 91

92 No. 68. Amerapoora. Wild Elephant Palace. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe of the enclosure for wild elephants at the palace of Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), from a portfolio of 120 prints. The 1855 British Mission to Burma was instructed to persuade the Burmese King Mindon Min to accept the annexation of Pegu (Lower Burma) following the Anglo-Burmese War of Its brief was also to collect detailed information regarding the little known country. The Mission spent a little over three months in Burma from August to early November 1855 stopping at various places to allow Linnaeus Tripe, the official photographer, and the Mission's artist, Colesworthy Grant, to perform their duties. Tripe's architectural and topographical views are of great documentary importance as they are among the earliest surviving photographs of Burma. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was laid out in a square with a moat surrounding its brick walls. There 92

93 were 12 gates in the walls and the palace was in the centre of the city. Most of the palace buildings were removed in their entirety to Mandalay by King Mindon. Tripe wrote, 'It is hither that the fresh caught elephants are brought to be tamed, for the diversion of the King. The present King, however, is said, to be averse to amusements of the kind'. No. 69. Amerapoora. Ooh-nein Gate of the City. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 93

94 The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. The gate in the photograph consists of two massive stone piers supporting a wooden tiered roof. Tripe wrote, 'There are twelve gates to the wall of the city, three on each side. The above gate is the centre one on the east side'. No. 70. Amerapoora. Guardhouse, at the Ooh-nein Gate. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura 94

95 was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. This is a view of the guardhouse inside the Ooh-nein Gate (the central gate on the east side), a modest wooden building divided into four compartments and raised on piles. The photographer wrote, 'There is a Guard-house at each gate'. No. 71. Amerapoora. A street leading to the Palace. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in

96 Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. Tripe wrote of this view looking along a street lined with single-storied thatched houses towards the pyat-that or tiered platform of the palace in the distance, 'The Ooh-nein gate leads into this street. The Palace is the centre of the city, and the streets leading from the central gate of each face converge on it'. 96

97 No. 72. [unnumbered]. Amerapoora. The Yoom-dau. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. Tripe wrote of this scene, 'This is the Hall of Justice on the left of the east side of the Palace'. 97

98 No. 73. Amerapoora. Palace of the White Elephant. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The white elephant is associated with the legends of the Buddha's life and occupied great symbolic significance in the hierarchy of the Burmese court. Sinbyudaw or Lord White Elephant 98

99 was ritually bathed and anointed and treated with great reverence with a white parasol held over it wherever it went. In reality albino elephants were a pinkish grey in colour rather than pure white. Tripe wrote of this palace, 'The white elephant is the same Crawfurd saw in 1826; it is now fifty years old: it has its guards, four white and eight gold umbrellas, officers of state, regalia, &v., &c.' 99

100 No. 74. Amerapoora. Gautama's Shrine. 100

101 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. Of this shrine with figures of the Buddha receving homage from a white elephant and a nat, Tripe wrote, 'This is at the Sontoung-pyee-tiyne Pagoda. The white elephant and a Nat are making offerings to Gautama. The Nats, in Burman belief, are an order of being superior to man, some being beneficent, others mischievous'. 101

102 No. 75. Amerapoora. A street in the city. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. 102

103 No. 76. Amerapoora. Sindu Shwe koo Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in 1852.Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. Each side of the wall measured 1.6 km and had three gates leading into the main streets that divided the city into equal square blocks, with a massive wooden palace at its centre. The palace was dismantled in 1857, and its materials reused to build the new royal capital, Mandalay. Of this general view of the temple, with chinthe or leogriph guarding entrance at right. Tripe wrote, 'One of the most graceful buildings about the city. It is of white stucco, the scrollwork being gilt; the canopy on the summit is of wood, gilt and inlaid with mirror'. 103

104 No. 77. Amerapoora. The Kings' Water Palace. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a 104

105 settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. The city was built on a square plan, surrounded by a wall and a moat. The Water Palace was a wooden building raised on thick piles, with a slender central pyat-that or tiered spire. The accompanying letterpress states, 'On the banks of the Irrawadi, used chiefly on the occasion of a boat-race'. 105

106 No. 78. Amerapoora. Entrance of the Aracan Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of the Arakan Pagoda near Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). View looking along the roadway lined with traders' stalls towards the entrance to the wooden temple, with a stone chinthe (the leogryph or Burmese temple guardian figure), to the left of the building. Tripe wrote, 'One of the most frequented of the Amerapoora temples. The approach is a perfect bazaar. Inside the gate there is a gallery erected by a former king for inscribed stones collected from Tsagain, Pugahm, San-ku, and other places'. The Mahamuni Pagoda, also called the Rakhaing Pagoda, is located 3 kms south of Mandalay on the way to Amarapura and was built in the late 18th century by King Bodawpaya. A century later it burned down to the ground and was rebuilt. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. 106

107 No. 79. Amerapoora. Aracan Pagoda. ရခ င ဘ ရ Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of the Arakan Pagoda near Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer accompanying this mission, his architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Arakan (Rakhaing) was an ancient kingdom on the east coast of the Bay of Bengal which was independent till conquered by the Burmese in Tradition relates that the Mahamuni Image of Rakhaing was discovered by the people of Rakhaing in the jungle and revered as the guardian of the kingdom. The Mahamuni Pagoda, also called the Rakhaing Pagoda, is located 3 kms south of Mandalay on the way to Amarapura and was built in the late 18th century by King Bodawpaya for the image 107

108 which he had snatched from Rakhaing. A century later it burned down to the ground and was rebuilt. Tripe described the celebrated image housed in the shrine, 'About two miles from Amerapoora, here was placed the famous bronze image of Gautama 12 feet high brought from Aracan in 1784'. Mahamuni is the name for the Buddha as the Great Sage. No. 80. Amerapoora. Kyoung near the Aracan Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of the kyaung or monastery near the Arakan Pagoda in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer accompanying this mission, his architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. 108

109 Arakan (Rakhaing) was an ancient kingdom on the east coast of the Bay of Bengal which was independent till conquered by the Burmese in Tradition relates that the Mahamuni Image of Rakhaing was discovered by the people of Rakhaing in the jungle and revered as the guardian of the kingdom. The Mahamuni Pagoda, also called the Rakhaing Pagoda, is located 3 kms south of Mandalay on the way to Amarapura and was built in the late 18th century by King Bodawpaya for the image which he had snatched from Rakhaing. A century later it burned down to the ground and was rebuilt. Mahamuni is the name for the Buddha as the Great Sage. In this view the central portion of the monastery with the stone staircase leading to the first floor platform is in the foreground, and the Arakan Pagoda is to the right. Tripe wrote, 'This is the longest kyoung in this neighbourhood, its platform is about 400 feet long. It is gilded'. 109

110 No. 81 Amerapoora. My-an-dyk Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). General view of the kyaung (monastery), standing on a small hill and partially obscured by trees. The outer wall of the building, in the foreground of the photograph, is in a poor state of repair. Tripe wrote, 'This is amongst a great number of kyoungs occupying a large extent of ground outside the N.E. corner of the city'. Monastery buildings served as living quarters and meditation cells for resident monks. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 110

111 No. 82. Amerapoora. Seboutkya Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), showing close-up detail of woodcarving on the balustrade of a monastery. The accompanying letterpress continues, 'The details of this kyoung are well worth notice'. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 111

112 No. 83. Amerapoora. Maha-oung-meeay-liy-mhan Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar) with a general view of the richly-carved kyaung (monastery). Tripe wrote: 'This was built and endowed by the present Queen. The details of carvings outside and inside far surpass one's expectations of Burmese art. It is of carved wood gilt and inlaid with mirror'. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 112

113 No. 84. Amerapoora. Steps on the South side of Kyoung No. 83. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Close-up view of the stucco steps leading up to the kyaung (monastery). Tripe wrote of this view, 'The panels are inlaid with coloured glass, and excepting this and the rails, all is richly gilt. The peacock (the standard of Burmah) is one of the ornaments of the latter'. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 113

114 No. 85. Amerapoora. Part of Balcony on S. side of Kyoung No. 83 [Maha-oungmeeay-liy-mhan Kyoung]. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a close-up detail of the wood-carved balcony of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, its artisans are supremely skilled in carving a rich repertoire of motifs from myths and legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. Tripe wrote of this scene, 'This is open scroll-work, and very beautiful'. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 114

115 No. 86. Amerapoora. Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). General view of the kyaung (monastery). Monastery buildings served as living quarters and meditation cells for resident monks. Tripe wrote of this kyaung, 'This is like No. 83, being of carved wood gilt and inlaid with mirror. Both of them are under the same Bishop, who resides alternate weeks in each'. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 115

116 No. 87. Amerapoora. Pyathat on East of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo- Bounghian Kyoung]. 116

117 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the pyat-that or multitiered wood pavilion of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, its artisans are supremely skilled in carving a rich repertoire of motifs from myths and legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 117

118 No. 88. Amerapoora. Doorway of Pyathat No. 87 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. 118

119 Close-up detail of doorway with heavily-decorated portico. Tripe wrote, 'This doorway is the communication between the Kyoung, and the three pyathats on the E. of it. In the pyathats the Bishop takes his exercise; and the images and other sacred articles are cleansed'. 119

120 No. 89. Amerapoora. A doorway of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. 120

121 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar), with a view of the richly-carved doorway of a kyaung (monastery). Tripe wrote of this monastery, 'The door itself is scarcely more than five and a half feet high'. Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, its artisans are supremely skilled in carving a rich repertoire of motifs from myths and legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 121

122 No. 90. Amerapoora. Front of the West part of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo- Bounghian Kyoung]. 122

123 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the splendid carvedwood facade of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, wood-carvers are supremely skilled in translating motifs from a treasury of legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. Tripe wrote of this close-up detail of verandah and doorway, 'Called ah-nouk (west) tazoung [a tazaung or prayer hall] and used as a kind of ante-room for inferior priests and servants of the kyoung'. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. 123

124 No. 91. Amerapoora. Balcony of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-too-lo-Bounghian Kyoung]. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the balcony of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, wood-carvers are supremely skilled in translating motifs from a treasury of legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. Tripe wrote of this close-up detail of richly-carved woodwork, 'The festooned panelling on this has very fine effect; the principal lines are marked by mirror. The corbels and open tracery below are remarkable'. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 124

125 No. 92. Amerapoora. Another part of the balcony of Kyoung No. 86 [Maha-toolo-Bounghian Kyoung]. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a close-up detail of the wood-carved balcony of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, wood-carvers are supremely skilled in translating motifs from a treasury of legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 125

126 No. 93. Amerapoora. Entrance of a Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the splendid carvedwood facade of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, wood-carvers are supremely skilled in translating motifs from a treasury of legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 126

127 No. 94. Amerapoora. Pyathat of Kyoung No. 93 [Maha Too Lo Bounghian Kyaung]. 127

128 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the pyat-that or multitiered wood pavilion of a kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. 128

129 No. 95. Amerapoora. Balcony of a small Kyoung. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a close-up detail of the wood-carved balcony of a small kyaung (monastery) at Amarapura in Burma (Myanmar). Amarapura, on the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river, was twice the capital of the Burmese kings of the Konbaung dynasty: from 1782 (the year of its foundation by King Bodawpaya) to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1860, after which Mandalay, 11 km to the north, became capital. Amarapura was the site of the first British Embassy to Burma in 1795, and played host again to Tripe's Mission. Tripe wrote of this photograph, 'This is another example of the fertility of design amongst the Burmese. It is of ungilt wood'. Wood-carving is a living tradition in Burma, wood-carvers are supremely skilled in translating motifs from a treasury of legends and floral patterns into different types of woods. 129

130 No. 96. Mengoon [Mingun]. Ruined Griffins. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a rear view of the massive headless chinthes (temple guardian lions) in front of the Mingun Pagoda, at Burma (Myanmar) with the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river beyond. Tripe wrote of this photograph, 'In front of the Pagoda. These were 95 feet high; but, like the latter, were shattered by the earthquake of The heads and necks lie scattered about their pedestals in masses'. Mingun is located 11 kms upriver from Mandalay, on the opposite bank. In 1790 King Bodawpaya (ruled ) began the construction of a stupa at Mingun, intended to be the highest Buddhist monument in the world and to reach a height of 150 m. Only its base had been completed when the project was abandoned at the King s death in This terrace is considered the biggest pile of bricks in the world. The imposing structure with its chinthes guarding it to the east was much damaged in an earthquake in

131 No. 97. Mengoon [Mingun]. Pagoda from North West. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the Mingun Pagoda, at Burma (Myanmar), with the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river beyond. Mingun, 11kms from Mandalay on the opposite bank of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) is best known for its immense and incomplete pagoda begun by King Bodawpaya (ruled ) who founded Amarapura. He intended it to be the largest Buddhist monument rising to a height of 150 ms but died in 1819 before it could be finished. This photograph gives a general view of the massive, cracked and ruined pagoda (purportedly the largest mass of brickwork in the world). An entry shrine marks each side of its square base and the edifice shows the massive fissures caused by the 1838 earthquake. Tripe wrote, 'Begun but never completed by King Mendaraggee [Bodawpaya] about the end of last century. It is about 120 feet high, and according to a miniature model of its design to be seen below on the river bank, it would have been, finished, about 480 feet high'. 131

132 No. 98. Mengoon [Mingun]. Pagoda from South East. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the Mingun Pagoda, at Burma (Myanmar), with the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) river beyond. Mingun, 11 kms from Mandalay on the opposite bank of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady) is best known for its immense and incomplete pagoda begun by King Bodawpaya (ruled ) who founded Amarapura. He intended it to be the tallest Buddhist monument in the world, rising to a height of 150 ms, but died in 1819 before it could be finished. This photograph gives a view of the massive pagoda (purportedly the largest mass of brickwork in the world) showing the cracks and splits caused by the damaging 1838 earthquake. Tripe wrote of this view, 'This corner shows the effects of the earthquake most completely. On reaching the top by it, the surface is seen rent into broad and deep fissures - a glacier in brickwork'. 132

133 No. 99. Mengoon. Small bell in front of Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view of a bell in front of the Mingun Pagoda, at Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Mingun is located 11 kms upriver from Mandalay, on the opposite bank of the Irrawaddy (Ayeyarwady). In 1790 King Bodawpaya (ruled ) began the construction of a stupa at Mingun, intended to be the highest Buddhist monument in the world and to reach a height of 150 m. Only its base had been completed when the project was abandoned at the King s death in This terrace is considered the biggest pile of bricks in the world. The imposing structure was much damaged in an earthquake in Bronze casting has an ancient tradition in Burma and bronze bells are an integral tool of spiritual ritual at Buddhist pagodas. 133

134 No Rangoon. Patent slip. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing a slipway for boats at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British following the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission, his pioneering architectural and topographical views of the country are an important photographic record. Rangoon was built on the site of the ancient Mon city of Dagon. Its name refers to 'the end of strife', given it by the founder of the Burman Konbaung dynasty, Alaungpaya (ruled ), after his defeat of the Mon kingdom of Pegu. A major port of Burma, located on the Yangon river near the Gulf of Martaban, Rangoon was made the capital after the British took over the whole of the country in

135 No Rangoon. A Street; old Style. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of a view looking along a side street lined with single-storied houses roofed with mats, at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). The narrow central road recedes towards the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, just visible on the skyline. The roadway (little more than a walkway) is unsurfaced and overgrown, with a central path of rough planks. The photographer wrote,' This may give an idea of the amount of labour and material required to make Rangoon streets and roads what they are'. Rangoon was built on the site of the ancient Mon city of Dagon. Its name refers to 'the end of strife', given it by the founder of the Burman Konbaung dynasty, Alaungpaya (ruled ), after his defeat of the Mon kingdom of Pegu. A major port of Burma, located on the Yangon river near the Gulf of Martaban, Rangoon was made the capital after the British took over the whole of the country in

136 No Rangoon. Signal Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing the Signal Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). In this view of the pagoda the chinthes or leogryphs (Burmese temple guardian figures) can be glimpsed facing the roadway at the entrance. The circular object hanging from a yard at the top of the pagoda is presumably a time ball. Tripe wrote, 'From this a very extended view of the town and river can be had. It is used as a signal station because of the distance at which a ship coming up the river can be descried. It is also known as Sale's Pagoda'. The Sale referred to is Sir Robert Henry Sale, who was stationed on the site with a picket during the First Anglo-Burmese War ( ). Sale ( ) was an army officer who had served in India, and then played an active role in the capture of Rangoon as commander of the 13th. At the time of the mission's visit the administration of the rapidly growing port was not welldeveloped. The pilot system did not work well, there was no pilot service and pilotage was left to private initiative, there were rival bands of pilots with their own pilot-brigs. 136

137 They later combined to form the Pilot Club and this club fixed the rate of pilotage by agreement with the owners and captains of the vessels. The signalling station was at the Sale Barracks where the pagoda known as Sale's Pagoda was used for the purpose and thenceforth began to be called the Signal Pagoda of Rangoon. No Rangoon. The Church. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, showing a kyaung (monastery), used as an Anglican Church at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). The construction of modern Rangoon was the work of years. After the taking of the town in 1852 the British distributed themselves among the larger buildings which were generally kyaungs. Much of the town had been destroyed but it now became the administrative centre of southern Burma which was under British control. The new rulers designed a new city on completely new lines. Pending construction, Rangoon was not a salubrious place to live in, the only substantial structures being kyaungs. Services for 137

138 the Anglican Church were for a time held in a kyaung situated on the east side of Voyle Road as seen in the image. In 1855, the Bishop of Calcutta laid the foundation stone of a Church of St. Andrew which was never built. A Town Church Committee was appointed and finally in 1865 the Holy Trinity Church designed by Captain J. M. Williams was completed at a different site. No Rangoon. The Lake. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view looking over the Royal Lake in what was to become Dalhousie Park, named after Lord Dalhousie, (Governor General of India ) at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). The construction of modern Rangoon was the work of years. After the taking of the town in 1852 the British distributed themselves among the larger buildings which were generally kyaungs. Much of the town had been destroyed but it now became the administrative centre of southern Burma which was under British control. 138

139 The new rulers designed a new city on completely new lines. Dalhousie Park was conceived as a public amenity when Lord Dalhousie, much impressed by the beauty of the scenery in the area around the Royal Lakes ordered that it be reserved for public use. The original area covered about 400 acres but it was never really developed fully as a great open space as Dalhousie intended and as per the plans made by Mr. William Scott of the Calcutta Botanic Gardens in 1856, mainly due to lack of funds. This photograph was probably taken from the Signal Pagoda, with buildings of the infantry barracks in the foreground. Tripe wrote, 'To the east of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, a park is to be formed around it; nature has already half completed it'. No Rangoon. View of the Cantonment. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints. This Panoramic view is composed of two joined prints, looking south-east from the Shwe Dagon Pagoda over the cantonment area of Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar) towards the Signal Pagoda in the distance. The accompanying letterpress continues, 'From the upper platform of the great Pagoda, looking S. and S.E. Pussendown [Pazundaung] Creek is in the left distance; the new barracks of H.M. 84th Regiment in the centre, the Signal Pagoda a little beyond it; the road from the Pagoda to the town on the right, part of the roof of the S. stairs of the Pagoda being in continuation'. The Rangoon Cantonment occupied an area of over two miles and operated entirely outside the purview of the civil authorities who ran the town. Included within its limits was Rangoon's revered Shwe Dagon Pagoda whose precincts had from the beginning been utilised by the British for military purposes. The stupa's platform was completely demilitarised only in the 1920s. 139

140 No Rangoon. Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a general view of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda (covered in scaffolding), with smaller pagodas in the foreground, at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). Tripe wrote of this image, 'Taken from the N.W. corner of the platform. The scaffolding of bamboo, so much like basketwork, was put up by the Burmese to enable them to regild the Pagoda; an operation which will cost them about 15,000.' According to traditional history, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, the most revered of all the Buddhist monuments of Burma, was founded in the lifetime of the Buddha as a reliquary to enshrine eight hairs from his head brought back from India by two merchant brothers, Tapissa and Balika. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, the whole is relatively more recent. King Binnya U of Pegu ( ) had it rebuilt to 60 ft (18 ms) in height. During the 15th century it was rebuilt several times, eventually reaching 90 ms (it now stands at about 100 ms). During this period the tradition of gilding the stupa was begun under the aegis of Queen Shinsawbu ( ), who donated her own weight in gold (40 kgs). British troops occupied its precincts in 1824 and again in 1852 and it remained under military control until the 1920s. 140

141 No Rangoon. South Entrance of Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view looking towards the steps and southern gateway of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). Tripe wrote, 'The road which leads to this, is, on festival days, crowded with Burmese, men, women, and children, in gay silks and muslins carrying offerings to the Pagoda'. According to legend, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, most revered of all the Buddhist monuments of Burma, was founded in the lifetime of the Buddha as a reliquary to enshrine eight hairs from his head brought back from India by two merchant brothers, Tapissa and Balika. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, the whole is relatively more recent. It has been rebuilt several times from the 14th century onwards and the structure as seen by Tripe's mission dates from the 1770s when King Hsinbushin of the Konbaung dynasty made many improvements to it. The ascent to the stupa on its platform is by four stairways from the four cardinal points. The southern stairway is the traditional entrance to the Shwe Dagon although today people also use the eastern stairway. 141

142 No Rangoon. North Entrance to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view of the north entrance of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). According to legend, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, most revered of all the Buddhist monuments of Burma, was founded in the lifetime of the Buddha to enshrine eight hairs from his head brought back from India by two merchant brothers, Tapissa and Balika. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, the whole is relatively more recent. It has been rebuilt several times from the 14th century onwards and the structure as seen by Tripe's mission dates from the 1770s when King Hsinbushin made many improvements to it. The ascent to the stupa on its platform is by four stairways from the four cardinal points. British troops occupied the pagoda's precincts in 1824 and again in 1852, using it as a barracks and artilllery station, and it remained under military control until the 1920s. Tripe wrote of this scene,'this was stockaded when the Pagoda was held by us against the Burmese'. 142

143 No Rangoon. South Tazoung of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. 143

144 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view of the south tazaung (prayer hall) of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). General view of the wooden building with tiered roof, with part of the scaffolded dome of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda visible in the background. This is a poor quality photograph which appears to have suffered from camera movement during exposure. In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission and his architectural and topographical views of the country form an important record. Tripe described this image, 'It is in these Tazoungs, of which there are four, that the figures of Gautama are placed; they are the chapels, in fact, for devotion'. The Shwe Dagon stupa on Singuttara Hill is Burma's most significant Buddhist monument, of great national importance. Traditional history states that it was founded in the 6th century to enshrine eight hairs from the Buddha's head. Its documented history begins from the 14th century from which time a succession of rulers rebuilt it or made improvements to it. The ascent to the stupa on its platform is by four stairways from the four cardinal points. Tazaungs on the platform are adoration halls where offerings are made and prayers are said before rows of Buddha images. Each of the cardinal tazaungs is dedicated to one of the four Buddhas of this era (kalpa or kappa). The southern tazaung is dedicated to Konagamana, the second Buddha of this era. 144

145 No Rangoon. Side view of East Tazoung [Shwe Dagon Pagoda]. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view of the east tazaung (devotional chapel) of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). The tazaung is a square open-sided wooden pavilion with a tiered roof, and in the foreground can be seen the guardian lions or chinthes. Tripe wrote, 'The base of the Pagoda is ornamented by brickwork lions, having altars for offerings before them; their necks and the scrolls above them are inlaid with a mosaic of mirror - in the panelling behind too, were squares of mirror, the rest having once been gilt; the effect of the whole must have been very brilliant'. The Shwe Dagon stupa on Singuttara Hill is Burma's most significant Buddhist monument, of great national importance. Traditional history states that it was founded in the 6th century to enshrine eight hairs from the Buddha's head. Its documented history begins from the 14th century from which time a succession of rulers rebuilt it or made improvements to it. The ascent to the stupa on its platform is by four stairways from the four cardinal points. Tazaungs on the platform are adoration halls where offerings are made and prayers are said before rows of Buddha images. Each of the cardinal tazaungs is dedicated to one of the four Buddhas of this era (kalpa or kappa). The eastern tazaung is dedicated to Kakusandha, the first Buddha of this era. 145

146 No Rangoon. Henzas [hinthas or hamsas] on the East side of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view of the hinthas or hamsas (mythical birds) atop sacred flagstaffs or dagun-daings of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). Linnaeus Tripe wrote, 'These, painted in bright colours diapered with gold and silver (traces of which still remain) must have had a very gay appearance. Henza [hintha] staves are attached to all pagodas'. The hintha bird (or hamsa in Sanskrit) features in many Jataka tales: the stories which narrate details of the Buddha's previous lives. The Shwe Dagon stupa on Singuttara Hill is Burma's most significant Buddhist monument, of great national importance. Traditional history states that it was founded in the 6th century to enshrine eight hairs from the Buddha's head. Its documented history begins from the 14th century from which time a succession of rulers rebuilt it or made improvements to it. 146

147 No Rangoon. Great Bell of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of the great bell of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar).The Shwe Dagon stupa on Singuttara Hill is Burma's most significant Buddhist monument, of great national importance. Traditional history states that it was founded in the 6th century to enshrine eight hairs from the Buddha's head. Its documented history begins from the 14th century from which time a succession of rulers rebuilt it or made improvements to it. The Burmese have a long tradition of bronze casting and bells are an important tool of Buddhist ritual. Enormous bells had been used since the Pagan period (9th to 13th century) and bell production had been located at Amarapura since the 18th century. The Shwe Dagon Pagoda has two famous bells. King Singu Min (ruled ) had regilded the Shwe Dagon and donated a 16 ton bronze bell in 1778 known as the Maha-gandha or 'bell of great sound'. King Tharawaddy (ruled ) presented a bell of 40 tons in 1843, and it was the last royal bell made for the Shwe Dagon. The Tharawaddy bell is also known as the Maha-tissada-gandha or 'the bell which produces a great sound'. It bears an inscription in Pali and Burmese recording the deeds of the king in support of Buddhism. 147

148 No Rangoon. The Votive Tree. 148

149 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, of a votive tree festooned with prayer pennants at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). Tripe wrote of this image probably taken in the precincts of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, 'Offerings of muslin are suspended from this in honor of Gautama; some even have prayers written on them in the idea that every breeze would waft their petitions to Gautama'. The Second Anglo-Burmese war of 1852 ended with the British annexation of Pegu. Lord Dalhousie, the Governor General of British India was instructed by the East India Company to require the Burmese king Mindon Min to sign a treaty recognising the annexation. Diplomatic overtures commenced in 1855 by means of a mission headed by Arthur Phayre, the newly-appointed Commisssioner of Pegu province, and Henry Yule, an officer in the Public Works Department was appointed Secretary to the mission. Besides the diplomatic objective, the mission was expected to obtain detailed information about Upper Burma. Linnaeus Tripe was appointed official photographer to the mission. Tripe, who specialised in architectural and topographical views, took pioneering photographs of Burma, which besides being aesthetically fine formed a vital record of the country. 149

150 No Rangoon. Rear View of the [Shwe Dagon] Pagoda. 150

151 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a general view of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda (covered in scaffolding), with smaller pagodas in the foreground, at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). In 1855 a British mission was sent to King Mindon Min of Burma to negotiate a settlement regarding Pegu, annexed by the British after the Second Anglo-Burmese War in Linnaeus Tripe was the official photographer on this mission and his architectural and topographical views of the country form an important record. Tripe wrote of this image, 'Taken from the N.W. corner of the platform. The scaffolding of bamboo, so much like basketwork, was put up by the Burmese to enable them to regild the Pagoda; an operation which will cost them about 15,000.' According to traditional history, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, the most revered of all the Buddhist monuments of Burma, was founded in the lifetime of the Buddha as a reliquary to enshrine eight hairs from his head brought back from India by two merchant brothers, Tapissa and Balika. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, the whole is relatively more recent. King Binnya U of Pegu ( ) had it rebuilt to 60 ft (18 ms) in height. During the 15th century it was rebuilt several times, eventually reaching 90 ms (it now stands at about 100 ms). During this period the tradition of gilding the stupa was begun under the aegis of Queen Shinsawbu ( ), who donated her own weight in gold (40 kgs). British troops occupied its precincts in 1824 and again in 1852 and it remained under military control until the 1920s. 151

152 No Rangoon. Small Pagoda [on platform of Shwe Dagon]. 152

153 Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a general view of one of the ancillary pagodas of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). Tripe wrote, 'On the platform of the Shwe Dagon. There were numbers around the great Pagoda similar to this, which have been destroyed'. The Shwe Dagon stupa on Singuttara Hill is Burma's most significant Buddhist monument, of great national importance. Traditional history states that it was founded in the 6th century to enshrine eight hairs from the Buddha's head. Its documented history begins from the 14th century from which time a succession of rulers rebuilt it or made improvements to it. The bell-shaped main stupa or zedi rises to a height of just under 100 ms, and is surrounded by a multitude of smaller shrines such as planetary shrines arranged around it in no particular order or grouping on its terraced platform. 153

154 No Rangoon. Portico of the West Entrance of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a view of the portico of the west entrance of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). According to legend, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, most revered of all the Buddhist monuments of Burma, was founded in the lifetime of the Buddha as a reliquary to enshrine eight hairs from his head brought back from India by two merchant brothers, Tapissa and Balika. While the core of the stupa may be very ancient, the whole is relatively more recent. It has been rebuilt several times from the 14th century onwards and the structure as seen by Tripe's mission dates from the 1770s when King Hsinbushin made many improvements to it. The ascent to the stupa on its platform is by four stairways from the four cardinal points. The western entrance and staircase was closed for a long period when the pagoda was under military use during British rule. 154

155 No Rangoon. Natural Bridge. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe from a portfolio of 120 prints, taken at Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). This view shows, 'A fallen tree over Tiger Alley near the American Mission at Kemindine'. Tiger Alley was one of the roads leading out of Rangoon to the north. Kemmendine (Kyimyintaing) was a district of Rangoon to the north-west. The Second Anglo- Burmese war of 1852 ended with the British annexation of Pegu and occupation of Rangoon. Lord Dalhousie, the Governor General of British India was instructed by the East India Company to require the Burmese king Mindon Min to sign a treaty recognising the annexation. Diplomatic overtures commenced in 1855 by means of a mission headed by Arthur Phayre, the newly-appointed Commisssioner of Pegu province, and Henry Yule, an officer in the Public Works Department was appointed Secretary to the mission. Besides the diplomatic objective, the mission was expected to obtain detailed information about Upper Burma. Linnaeus Tripe was appointed official photographer to the mission. Tripe, who specialised in architectural and topographical views, took pioneering photographs of Burma, which besides being aesthetically fine formed a vital record of the country. 155

156 No Rangoon. Mission House at Kemindine. Photograph by Linnaeus Tripe, from a portfolio of 120 prints, with a general view of a twostorey verandahed house, with a roof of thatch at the Kemmendine (Kyimyintaing) area of Rangoon (Yangon) in Burma (Myanmar). According to Tripe, this photograph showed, 'The style of dwelling adopted by Europeans in Burmah'. The construction of modern Rangoon was the work of years. After the taking of the town in 1852 the Europeans distributed themselves among the more substantial buildings. Much of the old town had been destroyed but Rangoon now became the administrative centre of southern Burma which was under British control. The new rulers designed a new city on completely new lines. Kemmendine was a village to the north of Rangoon which had been an important stockade for the Burmese during the First Anglo- Burmese was in It was subsequently taken over by the British and in 1855 was laid out to the grid plan by which Rangoon was being rebuilt from scratch. It had previously consisted of one long, narrow street with low-eaved bamboo huts. Kemmendine was where the American Baptist Mission was based. 156

157 No Rangoon. Tiger Alley. 157