The most famous pagodas are undoubtedly the Shitthaung

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1 The most famous pagodas are undoubtedly the Shitthaung and Koethaung temples. Interesting sites on their own, the two also represent a small game of one-upmanship on behalf of their builders, the father and son pairing of King Minbun, who built Shittaung in 1535, and his son, King Mintaikkha, who built Koethaung in Shitthaung i n M y a n m a r t r a n s l a t e s to 80,000 a reference to the 80,000 Buddha images etched or mounted on the walls, occupying virtually every available space. Koethaung is the same again but with another 10,000 images. While most pagodas in the country, including those in Bagan, are large structures with high ceilings and big interior rooms, the design and construction techniques employed at Mrauk Oo are quite different. Certainly there are large interior rooms, but around the outside are a number of passages that slowly but surely make their way to the centre, thereby creating room for the armies of Buddha images. Natural lighting is very much at a premium and some of the passages are spookily dark. It seems odd to carry a torch with you while you re walking around Mrauk Oo during the day but when you ve been inside some of the pagodas the reasons for doing so quickly become clear. Getting around is easy but at most times of the year Mrauk Oo is hot and the sun unyielding. It s quite possible to visit most of the sites within the main pagoda group including both Shitthaung and Koethaung on foot. But depending on where you ve chosen to stay, it s probably worth hiring a trishaw to get to where you d like to start. This is unlikely to cost more than K2000 (about US$2) but make sure you negotiate the fare before you set off. Alternatively, several places rent bicycles out for the day, and any good hotel can also find a jeep should you prefer to drive around. When the temples become a little overwhelming and it does happen there s a market Mrauk Oo shares many similarities with another of the country s former capitals Bagan but unlike that destination it s not part of the main tourist trail, which makes for a mix of good and bad. Air Mandalay - The Golden Flight 11

2 Rakhine State is also famous for its own particular variety of fish and noodle soup elsewhere called mohinga but known in Rakhine as mont tee. It s spicy, usually served hot and less heavy on the fish sauce. 12 Air Mandalay - The Golden Flight to explore in the middle of the town, and further afield are the hills and villages of Chin State. At least two of the hotels are able to hire jeeps that will take you up into Chin State on daytrips for about $50 a day. As with all the major religious sites in Myanmar there is an archaeological zone entrance fee $5 in this case, which is difficult to avoid paying, particularly if you visit the two big temples. Because the area is far less frequented than Bagan the number of hawkers following tourists around is much lower, although this might also be because Mrauk Oo is a functioning trading town and not as many people rely on the tourist dollar. Accommodation ranges in price and facilities from as little as $10 a night up to more than $100 at the fancier locations. Those who choose to eat lunch in town and away from their hotel will be rewarded the food from all the restaurants that I ate at was excellent and cheap. And at least one of the restaurants serves a local specialty tiny, pea-sized potatoes, which have to be seen to be believed. A favourite with travellers is Moe Cherry restaurant, which has an open upper balcony and is a fine place to relax for a meal and a drink. Rakhine State is also famous for its own particular variety of fish and noodle soup elsewhere called mohinga but known in Rakhine as mont tee. It s spicy, usually served hot and less heavy on the fish sauce. To my palate, it s a far more attractive option than mohinga. The last thing you want as a time-scarce traveller is an extended lay-up in a transit town like Sittwe but with a little preparation the experience can be much more enjoyable. Getting marooned in Sittwe for a single night or morning is no bad thing because the town has some of the freshest and best seafood in the country. More than a day is too long and you might even make the mistake of ordering black coffee.

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4 14 Air Mandalay - The Golden Flight Mon u m e n ts t o Buddha Words and pictures by Kyle Sherer Monywa

5 Destination A bout 700 years ago, workers began carving into the sandstone at Monywa, creating hallowed caves that eat into the mountainside and then furnishing them with weathered Buddha statues sculpted out of the rock. The result is a haunting and evocative monument to Buddhism one of just many in the area surrounding the city of Monywa, which lies 136km northwest of Mandalay in Sagaing Region, a distance that can be covered in three to four hours by bus. Sleepier than the pulsating streets of Yangon and less arid than Mandalay, Monywa is home to some unique tourist attractions and thousands upon thousands of Buddha images. From the inch-high statues that line the walls of Thanboddhay pagoda, to the sandstone carved Buddhas in the Pho Win Taung caves, to the towering 114-metre (380-foot) tall Laykun Setkyar standing Buddha, Monywa is a veritable land of Buddha and one that the government seems determined to keep expanding. The newest addition to the Buddha statue anthology is also the biggest in fact, it s one of the largest in the world. The Laykyun Setkyar Buddha stands rigidly at the foot of the Po Khaung Taung mountain range, and though it s surrounded by hills, its enormity is still staggering to behold. Construction work on the statue began in 1996, and it officially opened as a tourist attraction in February Occasionally, at dawn or on overcast days, the statue is enveloped by fog and its upper body disappears entirely into the clouds. But at most times of the day, its golden robe and pearly white skin dominate the landscape, and the gleaming statue and polished tiles make the area shimmer with heat. Air Mandalay - The Golden Flight 15