Wonders of Iran s Architectural Works Before the Islamic Era Hussein Zomarshidi 1

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1 32 1) Associate professor, Shahid Rajaee Teacher Training University, Tehran, Iran Wonders of Iran s Architectural Works Before the Islamic Era Hussein Zomarshidi 1 Adobe-made buildings around Kermanshah and Ghazvin belong to 8th and 7th millenniums B.C. Shahr e Sukhteh (Burnt town) which had contiguous buildings, belongs to the third millennium B.C. Ziggurat (a brick-made building in Cheghazanbil) has specific features. It is for the end of the second millennium B.C. The 17 stone palaces of Takht e Jamshid, which belong to Hakhamaneshi Era, reveal high value of world architecture and unique ways of building. Arch buildings of Ashkani Era, including temples and palaces, have brought some advantages for Iran s architecture. Unique architecture of Sassanid dehiscent Era (for example bases of arch buildings, their plan and frameworks, their surfaces, arches, and domes) resulted In different buildings (such as palaces, fire temples, inns, etc) In all, many of worthy methods of pre-islam architecture, is the basis of post-islam architecture in Iran. Introduction Iran pre-islam architecture was widespread in different rich forms in Syria, North India, China s borders, Caucasus and Zangbar (in Africa). This method of architecture and its designing and representation methods has found its way into the architecture of other enthusiast nations. Pre-Islam architecture, (like post-islam architecture), was always logical, and was full of spiritual values of good breeding and Iranian wise nation. There is no similar philosophical architecture in other parts of the world. If there is any, it is just an imitation of the Iranian artful architecture. It must be mentioned that, this kind of architecture is 1000 years old. The buildings built in this Era, show the wisdom of Iranian people. Each Era in Architectural history had something valuable for the whole world. Pre-Islam architectural works are abundant, and have been widely spread in Iran, in the past and the present time. We will briefly deal with some of them, which now exist in Iran. 1. ANCIENT RESIDENCES Skeletons of adobe-made residences which belong to 8th millennium B.C are located ten kilometers far from Hersin, a town near Kermanshah. There are some simple adobe-made buildings in Ganje Tape Zaghe valley, in Ghazvin plateau. Their ceiling lining was baldchin. So the ceilings were destroyed, but their skeletons have been saved up to the present. 2. SHAHR E SUKHTEH Archeological investigations were done by an Italian archeology team, (under the supervision of Professor Martin Toozi) and Iranian archeology team. These investigations took place in 3 stages (from 1968 to 1979). Shahr e Sukhteh s works (of the third millennium B.C.) was exhumed at this time. Some adobe-made contiguous houses have nim god Eskonj -made arch linings. There are some layers which are called Lapoosh, in the middle parts of arches. Eskonjs of these houses resulted in Shekonj buildings in Firooz Abad palace, in Fars (See figures 2 and 3). Figure 1. a part of Tape Zaghe remains, Ghazvin plateau; seventh millennium A.D. Figure 2. some parts of buildings remains of Shahr e Sookhte, the third millennium A.D (Ilami Era) Figure 3. Adobe made arch linings, niches, Shahr e Sookhte (third millennium A.D). 33 Keywords: Shahr e Sukhteh (Burnt Town), Takht e Jamshid, Hitra Palace, Firooz Abad Palace, Kasra arch. 3. CHEGHAZANBIL BUILDING The wonderful Cheghazanbil building belongs to 1250 years B.C. It is located in Haft Tape in Khuzestan Province. This building is built in 5 stories. Its shape has not changed through years. The first story is in the shape of a square and is 105/20 105/20 meters wide. Every story had Pasneshin (indoors). This brick-made building is 54 meters high. This building is known as Ziggurat. Cheghazanbil building has two underneath stories. These stories are where Ilami the Great and kings used

2 34 Figure 4. Some parts of Cheghazanbil building (Ilami Era) Figure 5. Cheghazanbil engraved written bricks to pray. Stories have relationship with each other by a direct and long stairway. An interesting Kamani arch is between the rims of the stairway. Point: This arch construction is assumed as an invention. It has been used in arch elements in the world and has been very influential. These are the characteristic features of that building: 1. Lighting: There were some nacreous glass pipes which were placed on the surface of every Pasneshin (indoor) of the stories. 2. Big and thick written bricks with Ilami calligraphy (which is the root of cuneiform calligraphy) on their thick parts, that shows the commands (laws) of that Era. These written bricks which are on the facades of the building and between earth tables are very interesting. 3. There were some glazed bricks in the canyons that prevented friction. 4. Ab Shishe is used in insulating the bases. This kind of damp insulating was unique with Iran. Remember: There was a platform in front of the building which was an altar. In this altar, there was used an interesting bay which is technically called Noghooldar with Haloochin arch. This kind of arch became the basic of bays of Ivan Madaaeen in Sassanid Era (see figure 3). Furthermore, thirty meters from Cheghzanbil, crypts of Ilami kings graves, with arch linings, remain in the form of Maze dar parabola. Point: The samples of Mazidar arches found in Shuooh and belong to the Ilami Era are a kind of quite technical arch and arch lining. These arch linings are the bases of arch linings of Ashkani Era. (See figure 7). 4. HAKHAMANESHI (ACHAEMENID) ERA AND TAKHT E JAM- SHID WORKS Some interesting, magnificent and philosophically-rich works were built beside Rahmat Mountain in Marvdasht, in Fars Province. These works were built during 550 B.C to 330 B.C. These buildings are based upon some pre- assigned or completed maps for the seventeenth palaces in Parsieh, Takhte Jamshid. These palaces were mostly made of stones and had baldchin ceilings. Their base was about meters wide. There were built on the mountain (Rahmat) slopes. The distance between the yard and Soffa was as high as 110 stairs. The stairs were wide, short and made of stone. Great sculptors such as brave men with wings which are in nation s gates, and some very philosophical and magnificent shaped stones which belonged to different nations, in addition to some very elegant and unique clothing, statures and some head and facial expressions were created in this Era. The pictures of queuing of Javidan soldiers, public levee of Daryoosh (and other Hakhamaneshi kings) to governors and great men of the country and nations heads in palaces also have been made. The show of horsemen, quadrupeds and kingdom thrones ornaments and many other things, such as high column with axels between them, reveal the greatness of the palaces. Cow-shaped capitals and painted (engraved) long girders, (in all), industry and stone carving art, created unique works which had no peer in other stone works appeared later in Greek, Rome, Eastern Rome, etc. 1. Entrance stairs 2. Nations gates 3. Defending rampart northern part 4. Not completed gate 5. Apadana column hall 7. Darius Palace 8. Third Ardeshir Palace 9. Central building 10. Indoors 11. First Ardeshir Palace 12. Khashayar Shah Palace 13. Central buildings 14. Ganj Khane 15. Defending rampart eastern part 16. Major southern entrance Figure 6. Cheghazanbil: Nacreous empty glass pipes, Iran national museum Figure 7. Maze Dar arch lining (parabola), Shoosh (Ilami Era) Figure 8. Takht- e Jamshid general plan, seventeenth palaces, (Hakhamaneshi Era) 35 Figure 9. Stone sculptors, stairway to Darius Palace; Takht e Jamshid (Hakhamaneshi Era)

3 36 Because these works had spiritual values. Wherever the spirituality exists, the art promotes; as in the cases of Takht e Jamshid, Naghsh e Rostam, Pasargad, shoosh, etc. Unfortunately, Alexander, of the Macedonia and Arabs invasions hurt many valuable works. However, many remaining works show the insight, maturity, attention, feeling and art of a strong, wise and civil nation. It also revealed the unique diplomacy of penetrated Darius, The great. These things are from different nations under the sovrenty of Iran. Remember: In addition to stonecutting art, pottery, tile maker s craft, smoothing the skin, admiralty metal/ bronze making and gilding promoted very much in the Hakhamaneshi Era. These arts had attracted the attention of great artists, scholars, historians, architects and all inquisitive people in the world. Figure 13. blocked painted tiles, lion with wings and horns; louver museum, Paris (Hakhamaneshi Era) 37 Figure 10. Stone cutting, Darius and his counselor s figurine, Takht e Jamshid Figure 11. stone cutting, some Nation s tribes are bringing some gifts to Darius courtyard; (Takht e Jamshid) Figure 12. adobe painted tile, brave men with wings; Iran national museum. (Hakhamaneshi Era). 5. ASHKANI ERA Because of the bitter accident of the collapse of the ceiling of Takhte Jamshid because of fire, arch lining was used in Ashkani Era (started at 250 B.C). We can see some samples of them in Nesa Palace in the southern Torkamanestan, the Palace and the Temple of Khaje Mountain beside Hamoon Lake, Anahita Temple in Kangavar and Hitra (Alhazr) Palace, 3 kilometers from Dejle River, south of Mosel in Iraq and Ashkani Palace in central Iraq. Remember: Arch buildings of Ashkani Era were the bases of two and four porch- mosques, schools and caravanserais in Post-Islam Era. (See figures 14 and 15) 6. SASSANID ERA A very influential government governed Iran from 226 to 625 B.C. (about 526 years). This Era was like Hakhamaneshi Era with respect to glory and grandeur. The Sassanid progenitor was Ardeshir, who was called Ardeshir e Babakan. He was the son of Babak and the grandchild of Sassan, the greatest Zoroastrian priest of Anahita Temple. He knew himself as one grandchild of Hakhamaneshi kings. He built a brick-made well-designed palace in Firooz Abad, Fars, after taking the power, (In the beginning of third B.C century). The big hall of the palace is covered with resistant blocked stones and high quality Gatch mortar and stretched circular arch. This mortar thickness was 13.5 meters. This kind of dome is known as the first lining arch dome in Iran. One of the features if this dome building is using Shekonj Sazi and Feel poosh (a kind of angle).this method is used for changing the 4 angles space to Paye Dayere for building the dome. This unique method became the basic of dome building in Iran and was used later by other countries. Some other arch works are: Goordokhtar and Bishaboor palaces (built by First Ardeshir) and Sarvestan palace (built by Fifth Bahram) (See figure 16) Remember: Industry improved very much in Sassanid Era. Different arts such as silversmith, gilding, pottering, ceramic making, etc. were made current in this Era. For example, some very beautiful stature and Figure 14. A part of Anahita temple column wall, Kangavar (Ashkani Era) Figure 15. Hitra (Alhazr) arch palace, Mosel, Iraq (Ashkani Era)

4 38 Figure 17. Mosaic, the great Sassanid man, from Bishaboor palace, Iran national museum figure-like pictures (which were made of ceramic some tiles which their size was 5 to 7 millimeters wide) were used for decorating the floor of the porch of Bishaboor Palace. Some samples of these figures are kept in Iran National Museum and Paris Louver Museum. This method of smoothing the skin took root in Rome, Eastern Rome, Spain and many other European countries ceramic making art. This kind of smoothing the skin is the basis of Mosaic smoothing the skin of Post-Islam Era. (See figures 17 and 18). Kasra arch: Madaaeen magnificent palace was built when the first Kasra (Anooshirvan) was governing. In the center of this great and unique porch palace, and on its sides some Noghool Sazi were built which were very symmetrical. There are some eye-catching bays in the five stories. (The Opening of the Arch s width is 25.5 meters, its height is 34 meters and its deepness is meters). The Abbasid Caliph was jealous of Tisphoon Palace and its porch. So he ordered it to be destroyed. However, because the process of porch destruction took long time, and because of his minister medication, he stopped this obscene job. Ferdowsi, the great epic poet of the world, composed 53 clear verses about Madaaeen portico in Shahname, which are very interesting to hear. ( I am going to tell a story about (the most honest one, Khosro s Ivan). This porch s arch is composed of Tokhm e Morghi, Beizavi and Sasanid (egg / Oval) arches and has some layers of Lapoosh. It is said that this unique arch had no frame and was just built relying on its architect and builder s experience. This porch is decorated with different construction materials, including marbles (which are used in dados); plaster works, geometrical figurines (in the body), wooden frames, leathers and figures (which showed the war between Anooshirvan (and Iran s army) with Valerian, emperor of Rome. Iran won the war). All of these ornaments are removed except some plaster works, which are now held in some American galleries. Iranian famous poet and orator, Khaghani, wanted to visit Kasra Palace (arch) after haj pilgrimage. He composed a beautiful and bitter elegy about loneliness of this great porch, which bothers every patriot Iranian: O my heart, learn this lesson Beware of the eyes Take the Madaaeen porch as a warning mirror Go to Madaen through Tigris (See figure 19) The works of the flourishing Sassanid are numerous. One of them is the International Siraph port which was urbanized. It was the road by which Iran could establish connections with other countries (of that time) and was the center of business for Iran. This port was destroyed in a violent earthquake. The great adobe city, Bam Citadel (in Kerman) also was hurt in the scary earthquake. Takht e Suleiman system and its wonderful parts, (especially the beautiful lake in its middle) and also country palaces of the Sassanid period are very good to study. Tagh e Bostan (and accuracy which is observed in mountains scraping for making huge interesting double arches), stone-cuttings and sculptors (which their subjects Figure 16. internal part of Firooz Abad place dome, Fars (Sassanid Era) Figure 18. Mosaic, the great Sassanid lady, from Bishaboor palace, Iran national museum (Sassanid Era) 39

5 40 Figure 19. Kasra arch, Madaaeen porch, Baghdad south (Sassanid Era). Figure 20. Two stone cut Sofe Archs, Bostan Arch+ sculpture (second Ardeshir, Ahooraee position acquisition from Anahita and Mitra, Noor angel) Kermanshah (Sassanid Era) were hunting grounds, history, religion, etc. in mountainous areas) are also interesting. There are also some fire temples in Takht e Suleiman, Baze ye Hoor (in Torbat e Heydariye ), Razavi Khorasan and Niasar (in Kashan). Some Inns (such as remains of Deir e Yasin, Davaze Gatch in Fars, and Anooshirvani inn, between Semnan and Damghan, etc.) show the great history, culture and civilization of Iran. 7. CONCLUSION Shahr e Sukhteh remains show that it has been a crowded city. Cheghazanbil was a sacred place in which some spiritual customs were carried on. The unique architectural works and stone-cuttings of the17th palaces (Takhte Jamshid, Pasargad, Naghsh e Rostam, etc.) show the high values of civil and wise society of that time. These works are really unique. Ashkani buildings which had some arches show the values of a thoughtful society. Sassanid works show the developed unique architectural methods of that time. Mountains stone cuttings show the history and civilization of REFERENCES 1. The writers information (used in the whole article) 2 & 3. Getting familiar with historical works (art major), Ministry of education, page 4: written by Seyyed Mahdi Mirdanesh 4. Some articles published in seminars about Shahr e Sukhteh: Cultural Inheritance Organ. Explanation: Shahr e Sukhteh is beside Hirmand River in Sistan o Baluchestan. This civil town was destroyed because of an earthquake and fire (which happened at the same time). Some valuable potteries and jugs full of healthy grains and corns were found in some archeological investigations. These findings attracted the attention of UNESCO and Universal Foodstuffs. 5. Iran s Art Reference Book written by Professor Andre Godar, translated by Dr. Behrooz Habibi, page 275, line Kasra arch s dimensions 5. Iran s Art Reference Book written by Professor Andre Godar, translated by Dr. Behrooz Habibi, page 261. Explanation: different numbers are mentioned in different scriptures. The numbers mentioned here are true. Notes 1. Baldachin roof: beam covered ceiling 2. Eskonj: angle making 3. Shekonj: Gowd angle making 4. Oshkoob: story 5. Ziggurat: a sky scraper building; a Sumeri word 6. Nacreous empty glass pipes whose caliber was 37 millimeters and its length was 70 centimeters. A type of these glasses is kept in Iran national Museum. 7. Written bricks: not baked/raw adobes are lithographed and splintered. When they are baked, we have a written brick. 8. Parsie: Fars land, Pars 9. Ahooraee: divine 10. Some gold stone slabs are found in archeology investigations. They show Modern and proper rules for doing justice and considering every body s rights and country ruling in all levels. 11. Noghool sazi: circular demicolumns joined to the building 41 Figure 21. A part of Tagh e Bostan stone cutting, hunting ground; (Sassanid Era) Figure 18. Mosaic, the great Sassanid lady, from Bishaboor palace, Iran national museum (Sassanid Era) Iran. Each architectural work has left priceless values for Iran and the whole world. Remember, each unique architectural work, belonging to pre-islam period, had its own philosophy and method. Some works need much studying. Today, we can get some national ideas of pre-islam works, like: Iran Central Bank s facade and previous police Palace, etc.

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