M A R R A K E C H C I T Y G U I D E

Transcription

1 M A R R A K E C H C I T Y G U I D E

2 H O M E & B R E A K F A S T I N M A R R A K E C H

3 THE RED CITY GUIDE

4 THE HIGH ATLAS & THE SAHARA DESERT

5 Marrakech ( مراكش ), also known as the Red city, is one of the historical imperial cities of Morocco. It was funded in 1602 by the Almoravids king Abu Bakr Ibn Omar and the name Marrakech comes from the Amazigh (Berber) words Mour (n) Akouch, which means Land of God. It s the most touristic city of Morocco and lies not far from the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, but at the same time, it is a few hours from the foot of the Sahara Desert. This contrasting geographical situation grants to Marrakech incredible landscape: sable and snow, desert and lush valleys.

6 THE MEDINA & THE NOUVELLE VILLE

7 The city is divided into two distinct parts: the Medina, the ancient city, and the new European modern district Ville Nouvelle where Guéliz and Hivernage have place. The Medina is a labyrinth of intertwining narrow streets and local shops and markets full of story and character. On the contrary, Gueliz is full of modern hotels and restaurants, and also big brand stores and fast food chains are not missing.

8 THE MONUMENTS There is much to see and do in Marrakech. An entire day can be dedicated to wandering around the souks, seeking out the best bargains, but the city offers also several historical and architectural sites as well as some interesting museums. Don't miss the storks fly over your head in many places of the medina!

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10 THE SAADIAN TOMBS

11 Built at the end of XVI century, under the kingdom of the sultan Ahmed al-mansur Saadi, and discovered only at the beginning of the 20th century, the mausoleum hosts the bodies of the Saadians in an ambience full of beautiful decorations made of cedar wood, marble and Zellije (Moroccan tiles). You can recognize the different tombs of Jews and Christians because of the presence of different markings and symbols. The good state of preservation of the Saadian Tombs may be attributable to the fact that they were sealed off by the sultan Moulay Ismail. At the time, Ismail was destroying architectural gems such as the Badi Palace, but some speculate that, when it came to the Saadian Tombs, his superstition got the better of him and he decided to hide rather than demolish them.

12 THE EL BADI PALACE

13 El Badi Palace, which means The incomparable palace was once the magnificent royal palace of the sultan Ahmad al-mansur of the Saadi Dynasty. Having taken twenty five years to build, El Badi Palace was a lavish, grand sixteenth century complex of buildings with over 350 rooms, courtyards, gardens and a huge pool. Its construction was funded by a substantial ransom paid by the Portuguese after the Battle of the Three Kings. Around 1700 it was stripped of its ornamentation to furnish the palace of Alaouite Sultan Moulay Ismail in the new capital of Meknes. Unfortunately now is in ruins and inhabited by storks and stray cats, but the view from the terrace is still breathless. Visitors who get in through its gatehouse can view the remnant of much of this site. Some of the highlights include its sunken gardens, its subterranean passages and the Koubba el Khamsiniyya or main hall, which has fifty columns.

14 THE BAHIA PALACE

15 The Bahia Palace, whose name means "The beautiful", is an ornate and beautiful palace and a set of gardens, built in the late 19th century, by Si Moussa, grand vizier of the sultan, for his personal use, this palace would bear the name of one of his wives and intended to be the greatest palace of its time. There is a 2 acre (8,000 m²) garden with plants and flowers and 150 rooms opening onto courtyards. Though only a portion of the palace is open to the public, you can see the unfurnished, opulently ornamented harem that once housed Bou Ahmed s four wives and 24 concubines. The quarters of his favorite, Lalla Zineb, are the most spectacular, with original woven-silk panels, stained-glass windows, intricate marquetry and ceilings painted with rose bouquets. Bahia s story is an interesting one as a warlord Pasha Glaoui claimed the palace to entertain French who were so impressed that 3 years later, kicked out the Pasha Glaoui and turned the palace into the home of the protectorate s résident-généraux.

16 THE MEDERSA BEN YOUSSEF

17 "You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded reads the inscription over the entryway to the Ali ben Youssef Medersa, and after almost six centuries, the blessing still works its charms on visitors. It was founded during the period of the Merenids (14th century) by the sultan Abu al-hassan and allied to the neighboring Ben Youssef Mosque, this Quranic learning center was once the largest in North Africa, and remains among the most splendid. The building of the madrasa was re-constructed by the Saadian Sultan Abdallah al-ghalib ( ). In 1565 the works ordered by Abdallah al-ghalib were finished, as confirmed by the inscription in the prayer room. Sight lines are lifted in the entry with carved Atlas cedar cupolas and mashrabiyya (wooden-lattice screen) balconies. The medersa s courtyard is a mind-boggling profusion of Hispano- Moresque ornament: five-colour zellije (mosaic) walls, stucco archways, cedar windows with weather-worn carved vines, and a curved mihrab (eastern-facing niche) of prized, milky-white Italian Carrara marble. The carvings contain no representation of humans or animals, as required by Islam, and consist entirely of inscriptions and geometric patterns. It hosted 130 student dormitory cells cluster around the richly decorated courtyard, for a total of about 900 students. One of its best known teachers was Mohammed al-ifrani ( ). Closed down in 1960, the building was refurbished and reopened to the public as an historical site in 1982.

18 THE KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE

19 It was built during the XII century by the first sovereign of the Almohads family. This minaret which is the expression of an Hispano-Moresque architecture, is 77 meters tall and has 3 balls on the top which are the symbols of Water, Earth and Fire. Five times a day, one voice rises above the Jemaa din in the adhan (call to prayer): that s the muezzin calling the faithful from atop the Koutoubia Mosque minaret. Excavations confirm a longstanding Marrakshi legend: the original mosque built by Almoravid architects wasn t properly aligned with Mecca, so the pious Almohads levelled it to build a realigned one. When the present mosque was finished by Sultan Yacoub el-mansour, 100 booksellers were clustered around its base, hence the name, from kutubiyyin, or booksellers. While the Koutoubia serves a spiritual purpose, its minaret is also a point of reference for international architecture. The tower is the prototype for Seville s La Giralda and Rabat s La Tour Hassan, and it s a monumental cheat sheet of Moorish ornament: scalloped keystone arches, jagged merlons (crenellations), and mathematically pleasing proportions. The minaret was sheathed in Marrakshi pink plaster, but experts opted to preserve its exposed stone in its 1990s restoration. As with most mosques in Morocco, non-muslims are not allowed inside.

20 THE DAR MENEBHI MARRAKECH MUSEUM

21 Dar Mnebhi Palace was built at the end of the 19th century by legendary Mehdi Mnebhi, it was carefully restored by the Omar Benjelloun Foundation and converted into a museum in The house itself perfectly represents classical Andalusian architecture, with fountains in the central courtyard, traditional seating areas, a hammam and intricate, beautiful tile-work and carvings. The museum holds exhibits of both modern and traditional Moroccan art together with fine examples of historical books, coins and pottery of Moroccan, Jewish, Berber and Arab cultures.

22 THE DAR SI SAID ARTS & CRAFTS MUSEUM

23 The Dar Si Said Museum in Morocco is housed in an opulent palace that is a delight to explore. The ground floor provides the perfect starting place and it is here that visitors can get better acquainted with splendid items from the past that are still very much in use today. Beautifully decorated weapons are presented side by side with splendidly decorative clothing and beaten copper articles while traditional Berber jewelry captivates and enchants. You can now make your way up to the first floor where you are greeted by strong Hispano-Moorish decorations and stunning cedar wood complete with intricate carvings. This reproduction of a salon is incredibly accurate and so you can easily picture a blushing bride, complete in ceremonial dress, making her way to the armchair as she prepares for her big day. Other rooms on this floor are filled with an amazing variety of carpets that originate from every corner of the globe. Some have made use of leather while others make use of textiles to create items that accurately reflect the regions that they come from. After exploring the second floor you might want to make your way outside to the small courtyard where you will find exquisitely decorated doors and window frames. The refined ornamentation on these items is delicate and beautiful and it makes one marvel at the level of pride and joy taken in building homes in the past. Taking such a journey through the past helps you to better understand just how much of the past is still used by the living when you make your way through the city streets ancient traditions are kept very much alive, though perhaps the general outlook on such practices has changed somewhat.

24 MUST SEE PLACES Marrakesh is a sensory-rich city in Morocco where you can experience a unique blend of ancient traditions and modern conveniences. A city where donkey carts, spice sellers, and snake charmers intermingle with luxury spas, coffee shops, and tour buses. Besides the monuments, the city contains a number of culturally and architecturally important sites and Marrakesh s medina was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in You haven t really been to Marrakech until you ve got lost in the souks, spent the night amid the storytellers of the Djemaa el-fna and sipped mint tea while debating the merits of the Berber rug that you re contemplating purchasing.

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26 THE DJEMAA EL-FNAA

27 Think of it as live, action channel, surfing: everywhere you look in the Jemaa el-fna, Marrakesh s main square and open-air theatre, you ll discover drama already in progress. The hoopla and halqa (street theatre) has been non-stop here ever since this square was the site of public executions around AD 1050 hence its name, which means assembly of the dead. By 10am, the daily performance is under way. Snake charmers blast oboes to calm hissing cobras; henna tattoo artists beckon to passersby; water-sellers in fringed hats clang brass cups together, hoping to drive people to drink. The show doesn t peak until shadows fall and 100 chefs arrive with grills in tow, cueing musicians to tune up their instruments. This is a show you don t want to miss but stay alert to horse-drawn-carriage traffic, pickpockets and rogue gropers. Arrive early in the evening to nab prime seats on makeshift stools (women and elders get preference). Applause and a few dirhams ensure an encore. It's a bargain show, and critically acclaimed too: for bringing urban legends and oral history to life nightly, Unesco declared the Jemaa el-fna a Masterpiece of World Heritage in This square is the highlight of any Marrakech night. Musicians, dancers, and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts.

28 THE MEDINA & THE SOUKS

29 This labyrinth-like market is a place to wander around and let your senses be assaulted by the sights, smells and sounds. Prepare yourself to bargain if you feel like shopping. Marrakech is a shopper s nirvana! A place where some of the finest hand crafted goods won t cost you the earth and, to add to the paradisaical tone, you re actively expected to bargain, what more could one ask for? If this sounds like your idea of consumer heaven then head direct for the souks in the North of the Medina, where you will find different artisans fashioning all manner of products. Some markets to look out for include the leather market and the carpet market where you can pick-up high quality hand-woven rugs. For sheer interest alone, and to watch real craftsmen at work, be sure to wander through the blacksmiths, dyers and carpenters markets. If the bustle of the souk gets to be too much, and you re all bartered out, then head over to the Ville Nouvelle where the shopping experience comes air conditioned boutique style. Here you will find exclusive designer wear and one-off original items, artisan and antique shops and warehouse outlets.

30 THE CITY WALLS

31 The ramparts of Marrakesh, which stretch for some 19 kilometers (12 mi) around the medina of the city, were built by the Almoravids in the 12th century as protective fortifications. The walls are made of a distinct orange-red clay and chalk, giving the city its nickname as the "red city"; they stand up from 8 to 10 meters high and have 20 gates (bab in Arab) and 200 towers along them. Bab Agnaou was built in the 12th century during the Almohad dynasty. The Berber name Agnaou, like Gnaoua, refers to people of Sub-Saharan African origin (cf. Akal-niguinawen land of the black). The gate was called Bab al Kohl (the word kohl also meaning "black") or Bab al Qsar (palace gate) in some historical sources. The corner-pieces are embellished with floral decorations. This ornamentation is framed by three panels marked with an inscription from the Quran in Maghrebi script using foliated Kufic letters, which were also used in Al-Andalus. Bab Agnaou was renovated and its opening reduced in size during the rule of sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah. Bab Aghmat is located east of the Jewish and Muslim cemeteries, and is near the tomb of Ali ibn Yusuf. Bab Berrima with its solid towers stands near the Badi Palace. Bab er Robb (meaning "Lord's gate") is a southern exit from the city, near Bab Agnaou. Built in the 12th century, it provides access to roads leading to the mountain towns of Amizmiz and Asni. Bab el Khémis, situated in the medina's northeastern corner, is one of the city's main gates and features a man-made spring.

32 THE MAJORELLE GARDEN

33 The subtropical Majorelle Garden is located in the heart of Gueliz, Hivernage. It is one of the most delightful and stunning spots within this red walled city. Although the Majorelle Garden has existed in Morocco for decades, it was only made famous abroad when the Majorelle Garden s former owner and care-taker, fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, featured it in the 1997 Chelsea Flower Show in London. Since this time, many have journeyed to Morocco just to see the Majorelle Garden. The Majorelle and its buildings are embellished by a unique shade of cobalt blue - the featured color in the garden. The garden is 12 acres in size and radiates with multi-colored bougainvillea, rows of bright orange nasturtiums, pink geraniums, bold pergolas and concrete paths that exist in shades of pastel pink, lovely lemon and apple green. With the garden there are the over fifteen different species of birds, such as turtle doves, bulbuls and house buntings. With its beautiful groves of bamboo, date palms and various lily covered pools, it is little wonder why these marvelous creatures choose Majorelle Garden as their home.

34 LE JARDIN SECRET

35 The origins of Le Jardin Secret hark back to the second half of the sixteenth century, when the Saadian Sultan Moulay Abd-Allah commenced upon the urbanization of what is now the Mouassine district. However, in common with many important buildings of Marrakech, the palace, which stood on the grounds of Le Jardin Secret, was destroyed toward the end of the seventeenth century, after the decline of the Saadian dynasty. Towards the middle of the nineteenth century the kaid al-hajj Abd-Allah U-Bihi came into possession of the land, on which, fully respecting the layout of the Saadian era complex, a new palace was built. Marrakech enjoyed a substantial development in this period, which favoured the construction of gardens and rich mansions. Shortly after, the kaid U-Bihi, who was viewed suspiciously by Sultan Muhammad IV because suspected of power intrigues, was killed with poisoned tea. The property then passed into the possession of the qadi Moulay Mustapha, a great judge who enjoyed close relations with the ruling family. In 1912, he exchanged the palace with the manor of Fez of al- Hajj Muhammad Loukrissi. The latter, the former head of the watchmakers guild in Marrakech, had been elected in 1908 as chamberlain of Sultan Moulay Abd-al-Hafiz. When, in 1912, the Sultan was exiled, al-hajj Muhammad Loukrissi moved into this palace, where he lived until 1934, the year of his death. The property then ceased to be maintained properly, and soon fell into a state of disrepair. The idea of restoring the building complex and opening it to public took root in 2008, and Le Jardin Secret came into being eight years later.

36 THE PALMERAIE

37 The Palmeraie of Marrakech has more than 100,000 trees, mainly palm trees, on about 15,000 hectares as well as a production of dates and a kitchen garden. It represents a natural and tourist heritage in Morocco because it is both an exorbitant nature and ultramodern urbanism. The history of the latter began in the 12th century when the Almoravid dynasty entered Marrakech. These Berber sovereigns created the palm grove of Marrakech, a few kilometers from the city. At that time, some palm species were venerated as a symbol of life and fertility. The crops were numerous and the density of trees made it possible to protect oneself from the heat. Nowadays, the palm grove represents the victory of man over nature. Indeed, the Moroccan population has over time been able to supply the desert environment and has imposed its existence in spaces where nature reigned supreme. To walk the palm grove, what better than a carriage ride, a means of transport very popular with tourists in Marrakech. However the journey is long - twenty kilometers - visitors who do not wish to linger can opt for a car ride or offer the services of a taxi. The road inside the palm grove guides the visit. However, it is useless to think of taking a walk off the marked trails, the visit is guided to preserve the natural site. To go on the spot, the tourists will follow the route of Oued Issil. The palm grove's surroundings are also inhabited by numerous luxury hotels, majestic residences, golf courses and swimming pools. An idyllic setting that many celebrities join throughout the year. In short, a place of dreams, far from the rush of the city of Marrakech to take a breath of fresh air!

38 THE MENARA GARDEN

39 The Menara gardens are gardens located to the west of Marrakech, at the gates of the Atlas mountains. They were established in the 12th century (c. 1130) by the Almohad ruler Abd al-mu'min. The name Menara derives from the pavilion with its small green pyramid roof (menzeh). The pavilion was built during the 16th century surrounding an artificial lake, the point of confluence of a canal system, used to irrigate the surrounding gardens and orchards. The basin is supplied with water thanks to an old hydraulic system which conveys water from the mountains located approximately 30 km away from Marrakech. The garden has a wonderfully tranquil location set amidst olive groves and with the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains.

40 THE MELLAH

41 Founded in 1558 by Moulay Abdallah, the Mellah district was designated as the Jewish quarter in Marrakech. At the time of the Spanish religious wars, Jewish refugees were escaping the country, and were offered this little piece of security by the Sultan. Morocco s noteworthy history includes a long period where Muslim and Jewish settlers accepted each other s differences and worked to bring their businesses to fruition. The Mellah in Marrakech refers to the area where Jews resided. Living in their own separate quarter meant that they were protected in the Kasbah walls, more easily watched and sure enough, taxed by the government. The Jews formed lucrative careers working as the financial representatives of bankers, tailors, and even the jewelers of the area. Mellahs in Morocco, especially by the mid-1500s became their own small cities, which included synagogues, outdoor markets, fountains, and balconies overlooking the tight alleyways and streets. If you d like to explore the Mellah, then you can enter through the Place des Ferblantiers, which was once referred to as the Place de Mellah. If you are having a hard time finding the area, look for the tin workers who now line the outer edge of the square souk. In this area, you ll also be able to visit Place Souweka, which is a fountain that marks the center of the quarters. When walking through the souk, attempt to stay on the main passageways through and you ll come upon the Jewish Cemetery and shrines that are still visited today. The synagogues are also along this same route and the main ones are called the Lazama and El Fasiines. The Mellah of Marrakech is an interesting area that tells a story of Morocco s past, a country that has been open to those of different cultural and ethnic backgrounds for centuries.

42 THE MAISON DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE

43 The Maison de la Photographie of Marrakech is a private foundation created in The first will is to exhibit the exceptional diversity of Morocco as it was seen by those who visited it: anonymous travelers or famous photographers, since 1870 to An invitation to a better knowledge of Morocco. The Maison de la Photographie is, first of all, an Archive, supporting the concept of History of Ideas in Morocco. The first and main adventure was to build that archive. The collection contains photos, glass negatives, post cards, journals, maps, prints, documentaries. Thematic and itinerant exhibitions are organized time by time. From the rooftop, one of the highest in the area, you can enjoy the beautiful view, while eating a light lunch.

44 THE SIDI BEL ABBES NEIGHBORHOOD

45 Bab Taghzout s gate, of almoravidean origin, and the nearer Sidi Bel Abbes neighbourhood, which have been linked to the Medina at the end of 1700, represent an unquestioned historical-cultural heritage. Bab Taghzout has remained a popular neighbourhood, still not touristic, therefore, it s quieter than the other neighbourhood where the souks are. The little streets here are tight; the houses are simpler, with children playing in front of the doors. Its beauty depends on the fact that it seems to live in another age. In these streets, you can find a traditional furnace, in which the inhabitants come to cook their homemade bread, a public hammam, different markets and many little shops. Do not miss the Zaouia Sidi Bel Abbes, the mausoleum of the most famous of the seven saints of Marrakech, and the Mjadlia a street, at which sides there are arcades and handcraft s workshops that bring you to the Poor s Mosque. The monumental complex has been built in different ages and it is made up of a medersa (school) and a mosque, dated beginning of 1600, to which during the following centuries a zaouia (oratory) and a fountain have been added.