Compass Odyssey Morocco Safari

Transcription

1 Compass Odyssey Morocco Safari (escorted and fully inclusive) 13 days/12 nights, 8-20 June 2015 GUARANTEED DEPARTURE $4990 per person Join writer, photographer and experienced tour guide Darren Humphrys on our 2015 Morocco Safari, visiting one of Africa s most fascinating countries. At the crossroads of Africa, Arabia and Europe, Morocco is an exotic, vibrant, and exciting land of intriguing culture, mesmerizing landscapes, great shopping and renowned hospitality. Journey to Morocco today and you can still marvel at the quintessential North African images of ancient walled cities, desert-crossing camel caravans, mud-walled kasbahs shaded by tall date palms, mosque minarets silhouetted against the setting sun, refined Arab intellectuals and rugged Saharan nomads. However, this is also a youthful country that is fast becoming a leading nation bridging the differences between l Orient (the East) and l Occident (the West). Independent from the French since 1956, Morocco s largely under-40 population is being led into a complicated 21st-century by a young king - the jet-skiing, mountain-hiking Mohammed VI who is intent on retaining his kingdom s unique diversity and traditional customs, while encouraging tourism as a major form of economic advancement. Tradition and development sit comfortably side-by-side here, producing a land of contrasts that offers the interested onlooker an endless supply of memorable travel experiences. Combine this with the unsurpassed local knowledge of our tour escort, Frommer s Morocco author Darren Humphrys, and our 2015 Morocco Safari promises to be an unforgettable journey. Berber tribesman Morocco s flag Saharan musician

2 SAFARI OVERVIEW Day 1: Day 2: Day 3: Day 4: Day 5: Day 6: Day 7: Day 8: Day 9: Day 10: Day 11: Day 12: Day 13: Welcome to Morocco Casablanca & Rabat Fez via Meknes & the Roman ruins of Volubilis Fez el-bali (Old Fez) medina Atlas Mountains & Moroccan Sahara Moroccan Sahara Todra Oasis & Gorge Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs Atlas Mountains & Marrakesh Marrakesh medina Essaouira Atlas Mountains & Imlil Farewell Morocco Our Morocco Safari commences in Casablanca and ends in Marrakesh. Those travelers who need to return to Casablanca can either fly (45 minutes) or travel overland by train (5 hours), and we can organize either of these journeys for you. We welcome travelers of all ages on this safari, and there s no special level of fitness required. However some hotel bathrooms may require stepping into a bathtub to access the overhead shower. While there s a fair amount of walking involved both on organized guided walks and during our own exploring it takes place on relatively flat ground and is generally very manageable unless you plan to scale the highest sand dune! Darren and our Compass Odyssey crew will always be available to assist those who wish to leave the group for some less strenuous exploration or who need assistance with their luggage. Veiled nakkachat henna artist 2

3 SAFARI DETAILS Dates: 8-20 June, 2015 Duration: 13 days/12 nights Cost: $4990 p.p. Group Size: Minimum 8, Maximum 16 Included: All transport and en-suite accommodation All meals and non-alcoholic drinks All entrances Fez medina, Kasbah Amridil, Hassan II Mosque, Todra Oasis & Gorge, and Volubilis guided walks with specialist guides Essaouira, Marrakesh, Meknes & Rabat medina guided walks African Gnawa & Arab-Andalucían private musical performances Camel desert trek with sunset drinks Moroccan cooking workshop SPANA animal welfare clinic visit Argan oil women s co-operative visit Henna hand-painting experience Education For All presentation Fully escorted tour including on-board photographic tutorials and advice Arrival (Casablanca) & departure (Marrakesh) airport transfers Gratuities for all guides, drivers, domestics, porters and wait staff Not Included: Any airfares and accompanying airport/airline taxes Personal travel insurance All other personal expenses such as alcoholic drinks & laundry The per person cost is quoted in U.S. dollars, and based on two adults travelling together within a minimum group size of 8 adults. While this safari is guaranteed to depart, there may be a surcharge should the minimum group size not be reached. If you are travelling solo, we do charge a single supplement but will first try to twin you with a fellow solo traveller should you wish. 3

4 SAFARI ITINERARY Day 1: Monday, 8 June Welcome to Morocco Today we greet you at Casablanca s Mohammed V International Airport and after assisting you with any requirements such as exchanging money into the local Moroccan dirham (MAD), we transfer you to our luxury boutique hotel in the city s downtown French Quarter, or Ville Nouvelle. This evening we gather for pre-dinner drinks before enjoying some fine Moroccan cuisine as well as a fair dose of Hollywood nostalgia - at the nearby Rick s Café. (Apéritifs & dinner included) Accommodation: Hôtel Le Doge ( Arriving into Morocco can perhaps be a little overwhelming for some travelers, and we are therefore intent on ensuring a smooth arrival and a fulfilling holiday for you by offering as much pre-departure assistance as we possibly can. Upon making your reservation with us, we will send you our exclusive Morocco pre-safari Information document, which contains a wealth of helpful information gleaned from our many years of welcoming fellow travelers to Morocco. Along with numerous other correspondences offering practical advice, prior to your departure you will also receive your personal Compass Odyssey Safari Dossier, which includes an abridged itinerary with contact details to leave with family and friends. This evening Darren will offer a few more words of wisdom to help you feel comfortable with being in Morocco, while giving a brief overview of the exciting itinerary that lays ahead over the next 12 days. Casablanca is Morocco s economic and industrial heartland, a new modern city that in 200 years has grown from an abandoned village to a heaving metropolis, and is still expanding thanks to a continuous wave of rural migrants hoping to make a better life in the big smoke. Casa, as it s known, was the showpiece for colonialist France, and its town planners were at the forefront of nouvelle architecture. Some fine examples can still be seen in downtown Casa, an easy 10-minute stroll from Hôtel Le Doge. Originally an Art Deco villa built in the 1930s by an Italian businessman (as a gift to this wife), Hôtel Le Doge opened in 2010 after two years of meticulous renovation and has a reputation for excellent service and hands-on management. The spacious and individually designed suites are named after cultural icons from the 1920s and 1930s the black and white Coco Chanel suite is suitably refined and uncluttered, while the masculine Hemingway suite is all leather and teak - and you are most welcome to request a particular suite with us. Rick s Café is the fruition of a 2-year tourism project by Kathy Kriger, or Madam Rick, an American woman who has lived in Morocco since The interior of the multilevel former medina residence has been restored to resemble the era depicted in Casablanca the movie, and is dominated by the central courtyard with its authentic 1930s Pleyel piano. If you ve never seen the movie, it s screened continuously in an upstairs dining room that s decked out in movie memorabilia. 4

5 Day 2: Tuesday, 9 June Hassan II Mosque & Rabat This morning we visit Morocco s premier contemporary architectural showpiece Casablanca s Hassan II Mosque. Accompanied by a specialist guide, our walk through its impressive interior is a unique opportunity for non-muslim travelers, who are usually denied entry into the country s mosques. We then travel north to the capital city of Rabat for an afternoon s meander with Darren, who will bring to life this seaside city s monuments and attractions, such as the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Kasbah des Oudaïas, as well as Rabat s shopper-friendly medina. This evening we stay at a luxury maison d hôte (guesthouse) located on the outskirts of the city. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: Villa Mandarine ( Acknowledging Casablanca s lack of any great historical monuments, on his birthday in 1980 King Hassan II stated his desire for the city to be endowed with a large, fine building of which it can be proud until the end of time. Thirteen years later, he inaugurated the Hassan II Mosque. As a house of prayer, it is one of the largest in the world, able to house 25,000 worshippers under its retractable roof, and another 80,000 in the courtyards and squares outside. As non-muslims in Morocco are usually forbidden to enter a mosque (a restriction actually instigated by the colonial French), we must take an informative 1-hour tour with a specialist guide to see the mosque s aweinspiring interior. The handiwork of the country s master craftsmen is truly appreciated during this tour. These craftsmen were working with marble from Agadir, cedar wood from the Middle Atlas, granite from Tafraoute, and Venetian glass, the only imported material. Added to this is perhaps the mosque s most exquisite examples of Moroccan craftsmanship - blankets of zellij mosaic tiling, some designs over 10m (33ft) high. There s also an ablutions hall with over 40 fountains and two public wash houses, called hammams. Looming over Rabat near the Bou Regreg River is Le Tour Hassan & the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. Le Tour Hassan (the Hassan Tower) was the towering minaret of the Hassan Mosque, which began construction in 1195 under the Almohad sultan Yacoub el Mansour. Intended to be 60m (200ft) high - and subsequently one of the tallest in the world at the time - the tower stands today at 44m (145ft) high, having been abandoned upon the death of the sultan in It is still a formidable structure and looms over the remains of its ruined mosque, flattened by an earthquake in The mosque was designed to hold 20,000 worshippers and even though all that is left today are rows of reconstructed columns, the scale of its grandness is still visible. The Mausoleum of Mohammed V is the burial shrine of Morocco s post-independence rulers - the current king s grandfather (Mohammed V) and father (Hassan II), and is a place of reverence for Moroccans and visitors alike. A dignified building watched over by elaborately-dressed Royal Guards, the white onyx tombs of Mohammed V and his sons Hassan II and Moulay Abdellah, can be viewed from an upper balcony. Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca Le Tour Hassan, Rabat 5

6 Rabat s elevated and compact kasbah, the Kasbah des Oudaïas looks out over the mouth of the Bou Regreg River and over the centuries has seen dynasties come and go, and also housed a notorious band of pirates that became known as the Sallee Rovers. It is a quiet and airy quarter, with a few attractions, and both a cafe and viewing platforme that afford sweeping views of the river mouth and adjoining beaches. A welcoming sea breeze usually sifts its way through the kasbah, making for a very pleasant stroll with Darren through its winding alleys, past whitewashed houses and brightly coloured doors. We reach the kasbah by walking through Rabat s medina. Along the way, we encounter shops selling everything from high quality carpets and handmade hooded cloaks, called jellabahs, to handmade wooden furniture and jewelry. The major bonus of shopping within Rabat s medina is the relative lack of hard-sell by the shopkeepers. Snoozing in a cozy jellabah, Rabat medina Zellij mosaic tiling, Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca Our accommodation in Rabat is the Villa Mandarine, a former mansion that is now a family-run luxury maison d hôte and offers some of the finest accommodation in Rabat. Although Claudy Imbert, her daughters, and two sons-in-law have been welcoming guests into their 36-room country house since 2001, Villa Mandarine is still one of Rabat s, if not Morocco s, best-kept secrets. The rooms are set out on two levels surrounding a large central courtyard of palm trees, rosebushes, and a mosaic fountain. Tastefully furnished and personally decorated by Claudy herself, the well-appointed rooms are beautiful combinations of natural colors, Berber rugs, Moroccan lamps, and contemporary and traditional artworks; all rooms have their own balcony or patio. The public areas are numerous and include a rustic African bar, large lounge and library, billiards room and fireplace, and a private beauty salon with hammam and on-site masseuse. The large grounds are dotted with citrus trees and have lots of private areas for reading and relaxing, and we ll take dinner tonight in the open and sunny restaurant that is renowned for its fine international and Moroccan fare. 6

7 Day 3: Wednesday, 10 June Fez via Meknes & the Roman ruins of Volubilis We now venture inland to Morocco s cultural heart, beginning with Meknes, the lesser-visited of the country s former imperial cities. Darren will first take us to the shrine of the country s longestserving ruler, the notorious Sultan Moulay Ismail, followed by a sensory stroll within Souk Atriya, the medina s lively covered market that houses all manner of produce, from cakes to chameleons, olives to goat s heads. We then travel to what was the southern-most outpost of the Roman Empire, Volubilis and here we take a private walk through the ruins of this UNESCO World Heritage site with specialist guide, Mr Abdelhay Grirrane. The ancient metropolis of Fez then beckons, and we arrive in time to hear the muezzin s sunset call to prayer emanating from this spiritual city s many (over 100) mosques. Our accommodation is situated within the medieval walls of the Fez el-bali (Old Fez) medina, and is a former residence - called a riad or dar in Arabic - that has been restored and refurbished into a luxury guesthouse. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: Riad Myra ( Meknes joined Morocco s select group of Imperial Cities when Moulay Ismail became the second sultan of the Alaouite dynasty that still rules today. Meknes greatest, indeed its only golden age was solely due to the reign of Moulay Ismail. His 55-year rule is the longest in Moroccan history, and is regarded as one of its greatest. Inheriting a country weakened by internal tribal wars and royal successions in 1672, the 26-year old Ismail became, at least in European eyes, the most notorious of Morocco s rulers. The builder of an imperial city intended to equal Versailles - Louis XIV was building his palace at the same time and the two grew to become close allies - Moulay Ismail was the sire according to legend of more than a thousand children, yet also a monster of cruelty in his treatment of both his slaves and subjects. He constructed his Imperial Palace with captives from military campaigns in Algeria and Mauritania, along with Christian slaves captured from raids on the European mainland. The sultan would often use these Christians as bargaining tools with the European powers, receiving vast sums of money in exchange for their return. However Moulay Ismail was also an extremely able ruler, who kept a tight hold on the country and based his power on a standing army of 150,000 black West African slaves called the Black Guard. During his reign Ismail expelled the British, Ottoman Turks and Spanish from Morocco s shores, and was a prodigious builder of roads, bridges, kasbahs and mosques. His vision for his beloved Meknes was grand, and before his death at the age of 80 he had endowed the city with over 25km (16mi) of protective walls, seven monumental gates, called babs, and a vast palace complex. Our visit to the peaceful Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail is a rare treat in a country where non-muslims are generally forbidden entry to such places of reverence. The existence of a Roman city in Morocco surprises some people, and though much has been pillaged to adorn other cities - mainly Meknes - over the centuries, or taken to museums, the structure of Volubilis is still clearly visible from the ruins, and our visit to this UNESCO World Heritage site is highly enjoyable. Volubilis flourished under the rule of the Berber Mauretanian king Juba II, a descendant of Hannibal and husband to the daughter of Cleopatra and Marc Antony, and from 45AD to 285AD it was the capital of the Roman province of Mauritania Tingitana. Under the Romans, this province, once in Horace s phrase the arid nurse of lions became one of the granaries of the Empire, and Volubilis grew to a city of 20,000 inhabitants on the back of exporting to Rome vast quantities of olives and wheat as well as wild animals, in particular the Barbary lion to figure in the legendary gladiator games in the empire s coliseums. Volubilis was also the meeting point between Berbers and Romans, where the two cultures met to trade even though the indigenous nomads of Morocco were never subdued by the Roman legions. After the demise of the Roman empire, the city continued to function for centuries afterwards due to its established olive and farming industries. Latin was still the common language amongst the city s population of Jews, Greeks, Syrians and Berbers until the Islamic Arabs arrived in the late 700s. The proclaimed sultan in Volubilis, Moulay Idriss I preferred his new city of Fez however, and the demise of Volubilis is echoed by the rise of early Islam in Morocco. 7

8 Triumphal Arch, Volubilis Souk Atriya butcher, Meknes Thanks to Mr Abdelhay Grirrane, a local Meknassi guide who specializes in Volubilis, our walk through the ruins brings the city back to life, and even today we can still marvel at the Triumphal Arch, the Forum, the houses of Dionysus, Euphebus, and Orpheus, as well as some exquisite though slowly fading floor mosaics. Our stay in Fez is at Riad Myra, the palais d hôte (luxury guesthouse) of the local and highly respected Chab family. The bedrooms are sumptuously furnished and decorated in a mix of traditional-moroccan and antique-english, with heavy drapes and bed covers of royal blue, gold and burgundy. A large courtyard of deep-cushioned lounges surrounds an eight-pointed star fountain and is both a meeting area and restaurant for riad guests. A roof terrace offers private corners for sunbathing and reading. What sets Riad Myra apart from a lot of its competition is its well-trained, professional, English-speaking staff, who consistently deliver friendly service in a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere. 8

9 Day 4: Thursday, 11 June Fez el-bali (Old Fez) medina Fez is the most ancient, and indeed the greatest of Morocco s imperial cities and within the walls of the Fez el Bali (Old Fez) medina, lies the world s largest intact medieval city. More than 9,500 narrow streets and dim alleyways wind endlessly up and down, around and around, crammed with people, music, noise, and smells. Today we experience Fez el-bali with Mr Hassan el Janah, a Fassi local and one of Morocco s most distinguished guides. During our day s walk we visit a number of sights and attractions within the medina s cobbled streets, including leather dye pits, a traditional fondouk, the henna souk, the bustling potter s quarter, and the exquisitely restored medersa of Bou Inania. Within our riad this evening, we are treated to an exclusive Arabo- Andalusian musical performance featuring the beautiful, almost spiritual sound of the Arabian oud guitar. During the evening, we are also joined by a local henna artist who will gladly tattoo our hands in the traditional Arabic style. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: Riad Myra ( Fez means different things to different people. To some, it is a centre of the decorative arts, worldfamous for its leather and metal work and the skill of its master craftsmen, or maâlem. Others may see it as the home of the Kairouine Mosque - the second-largest in North Africa - and its neighboring university, the oldest in the world. For others still, Fez conjures up an image of the quintessential fabled Arabian city from a time when travelling merchants and their camel caravans from the Middle East traded with nomads from the Sahara and Berbers from the mountains. Bab Boujloud Leather tannery Henna hand painting Images from the medieval medina of Fez el-bali The very beginning of the state that would become Morocco occurred in the year 786AD, when Moulay Idriss I set foot in el-maghreb el-aksa the Far West - and found shelter on the banks of the Wadi (river) Fez. A great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed, Moulay Idriss and his son, Idriss II created the first semblance of a unified, independent Morocco, and it was from Fez that dynasties would come and go - no matter where their power was based, the city would always feature strongly in the ruling sultan s plans. Today s Fez incorporates the medinas of Fez el-bali (Old Fez) and Fes Jdid (New Fez), bisected by the Royal Palace as well as the Ville Nouvelle, created by the French in the early 1900s. Fez el-bali is regarded as the soul of Morocco and by staying within its ancient walls, we can truly appreciate one of the world s last remaining - and still very much living - medieval cities. Heaving masses of impatient people, mules laden with anything from stinking animal hides to baskets of fresh flowers, giggling girls skipping home from school, grizzly old men playing checkers in a cafe, an impromptu game of street football all of this and more can be seen and experienced right outside our door. Our day s escorted exploration of the medina with Mr Hassan el Janah offers plenty of opportunities for taking photographs, asking questions, shopping and enjoying a mint tea. 9

10 Day 5: Friday, 12 June Atlas Mountains & Moroccan Sahara Today s long drive is an amazing, picturesque journey through a myriad of Morocco s landscapes. We first ascend the Middle Atlas Mountains, and hopefully encounter a troop of the endemic Barbary Macaque within the range s aromatic cedar forests. We venture even higher to then cross the dramatic, barren High Atlas range. Marveling at the deep ravines of the Ziz Gorge, we then descend onto the vast pre-saharan plains. We follow the oases and palmeraies to the very end, where we encounter our breathtaking destination, the Moroccan Sahara. Tonight we stay in our deluxe auberge (country inn) by the dunes. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: Dar el Janoub ( With its cool temperate climate and forests of towering cedar, the Middle Atlas mountain range often comes as a pleasant surprise after the general hustle and bustle of Fez. We ll stop briefly here for a coffee break and a breath of fresh mountain air, while also looking out for the troops of Barbary Macaque, often misnamed as the Barbary Ape. Crossing the vast plateau of the Middle Atlas, we then wind our way through the eastern region of the High Atlas Mountains. The eastern High Atlas was one of the last areas in Morocco to accede to colonial rule, and we pass many cliffside kasbahs, or ksour where the local tribes resisted French pacification for almost 20 years. We drive through the Zaabal Tunnel, also known as Tunnel du Legionnaire, a 200m (656ft) passage blasted through the mountains by the French in 1930 to open the route to the Saharan south, and towards the end of the range we encounter the Ziz Gorges. Around 2km (1¼ mi) long and at times almost as high, the gorges are both dramatic and photogenic, subtly changing color as the day wears on. The surrounding barren mountain landscape only serves to accentuate the sense of isolation and awe. We descend the mountains just before the major town of Er Rachidia. From here we make our way to the edge of the Sahara desert. Our destination is Erg Chebbi, a massive sand sea some 30km (19mi) long and 7km (4.3mi) wide separated from the main Saharan ocean by Morocco s stony hammada. Emotions of wonder and excitement usually accompany our first sight of this surreal mountain range-like desert bathed in hues of gold, pink and red. Desert Berber cameleer Camel caravan Desert gnawa musician Dar el Janoub ( House of the South ) is one of the most pleasant auberges on Morocco s Saharan dunes. The lobby wall is adorned with symbols of the Berber alphabet, and from there on managers Omar and Rashid are at our service. Our rooms are constructed from an earth and stone mixture called tabout, and throughout the walled property this earthy theme continues. Inside the rooms are bamboo ceilings, neutral bedcovers made from local textiles, and a pastel-coloured accent wall of the traditional lime-based plaster called tadelakt. The rooms have a small, individual rooftop terrace with dune views, and are deliberately void of TVs and phones to sustain the peaceful atmosphere. A large pool one of the first at Erg Chebbi is well designed, allowing for some privacy while sunbathing. A large restaurant is both air-conditioned and has a fireplace, and opens out to a ground-floor terrace with cane lounges, wrought-iron tables, and direct access to the dunes. An upstairs terrace affords even clearer dune views. 10

11 Day 6: Saturday, 13 June Moroccan Sahara Our auberge is located on the very edge of the sand sea and today we slow down to desert time. This morning is ours to relax and delight under the warm Saharan sun, perhaps with a good book beside the pool, or join Darren on an informal photographic tutorial to capture some images of the ever-changing desert colors. This afternoon Darren introduces us to the trance-like gnawa rhythms that originated in Mali and West Africa and were brought to Morocco by former slaves and camelherders, some of whom we visit in a village nearby. Later in the day we embark on a short camel trek into the desert and marvel at the Saharan sunset over a glass of local wine, followed by more gnawa music and a mechoui roast lamb feast back at Dar el Janoub. (Breakfast, lunch, sunset drinks & dinner included) Accommodation: Dar el Janoub ( Close to our auberge is the village of Khamlia, which has been inhabited for over a century by a mixture of Moroccan Berbers, Bedouin Arabs, and various tribes of sub-saharan origin collectively called Gnawa. Many of the village s Gnawa residents are descended from the Bambara people of Mali, who made their way to what is now Morocco via the great camel caravans. Traditionally shepherds and camel herders, the Bambara also brought with them their music, now popularized in Morocco simply as Gnawa music. The music played by the Bambara in Khamlia is a unique form of Gnawa, incorporating Arabic and Berber lyrics as well as their own Bambara dialect. Groupe des Bambaras is the creation of Hamad Mahjoubi, and this afternoon we visit Dar Gnawa, Hamad s family compound-cum-performance venue in Khamlia, to listen, watch, and dance to a performance by these skilful musicians. Sunset on the Moroccan Sahara 11

12 Day 7: Sunday, 14 June Todra Oasis & Gorge After welcoming a new day as the sun rises over the Moroccan Sahara, today we journey alongside the southern flank of the High Atlas Mountains to the Todra Oasis. We take lunch in the welcoming company of local restaurateur and guide Mr El Houssaïne Abdel Fadel ( call me Hassan ), who escorts us on an enjoyable and informative afternoon walk along the cultivated riverbed of Todra s lush valley, or palmeraie, to the stunning natural wonder that is Todra Gorge. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: Hotel Amazir Todra Oasis palmeraie Guided walk along the palmeraie A stunning sight with its river of green slicing through the otherwise endless rocky, brown landscape, the Todra Oasis verdant palmeraie feeds off the Todra River and winds upstream for 15km (9.3mi) before reaching the entrance to the Todra Gorge. This afternoon our local guide leads us along the palmeraie while pointing out the communal agricultural industry that thrives here, including palm and fruit trees, crops of cereals, and fields of vegetables that supply the surrounding region all year round. The first view of Todra Gorge from its narrow mouth is truly memorable. Only 300m (985ft) in length, 50m (165ft) across and with 300m (985ft) high walls, this is the valley at its most dramatic. During certain times of the year, the height of the cliffs and the axis of the sun prevent any direct sunlight from reaching the gorge s floor. Mid to late afternoon is generally the best time to visit as the sun is absorbed by the gorge s walls and produces beautiful shades of orange and red. The Todra River emerges as a spring here, and the cool stream is a nice spot to dip our toes and enjoy a refreshing cup of mint tea. The kasbah-like Hotel Amazir lies in the palmeraie and on a bend of the Todra River, and with a constant background of rushing water and bird song is a peaceful spot for us to retire at the end of our day in the Todra Oasis. Our rooms are simply but tastefully furnished and are finished with Berber carpets and natural fiber curtains and bed covers. The large ground-floor restaurant is Moroccan in style with zellij (mosaic tile) and an ornate stucco plaster ceiling, and opens out to a lovely shaded terrace and swimming pool overlooking the river. 12

13 Day 8: Monday, 15 June Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs We continue our desert-fringed journey in the shadow of the High Atlas Mountains, and encounter the numerous oases and palmeraies that are a lifeline for the local Berbers living in their mud-walled villages and earthen kasbahs. This region is popularized as the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, and today we ll take a private tour with Mr. Réda Nassiri through the castle-like Kasbah Amridil, on our way to the famous kasbah village of Aït ben Haddou. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: Dar Mouna ( For centuries Aït ben Haddou was an integral stop on the Saharan caravan route between Timbuktu and Marrakesh, thanks to its strategic location beside the Dra River. In more recent times this village of kasbahs, collectively called ksour, has gained recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site and as the location for a string of Hollywood movies such as Lawrence of Arabia, The Jewel of the Nile, Gladiator and Alexander the Great. This afternoon we can take a leisurely walk up through its winding lanes to an old fortified granary, or agadir which sits atop a small cliff directly above the village. Alternatively, the large terrasse panoramique that stretches the length of our accommodation is a perfect spot to while away the hours simply looking across the pebblestrewn river to this famous ksour. As the sun sets on the earthen kasbah walls and over an apéritif or two, we can perhaps visualise this kasbash village during its prime before the west coast of Africa was discovered by the seafaring nations of Europe; before the French built a faster, safer route through the Atlas; before the border with Algeria was closed. Caravans of more than a hundred camels laden with cloth, glass, and other wonders from the modern world would pass by here en route from Marrakesh to the kingdoms of Timbuktu and the old Sudan, returning months later with their booty of gold, ivory, salt, and slaves. The changing colors on the earthen walls of the Aït ben Haddou kasbahs We stay in Abdellah Mouna s family-run auberge, Dar Mouna. The first guesthouse in the village and one of the best, Dar Mouna boasts a wide terrace that looks directly over the riverbed to the Abdellah s former family residence in the Aït ben Haddou ksour. Constructed throughout in a traditional mix of earth and stone called tabout, Dar Mouna s main building surrounds a cozy interior courtyard with comfortable lounges. The rustic inward-facing rooms are on two levels opening on to the courtyard. Low-lying beds with natural-fiber spreads and floors covered with Berber rugs, grass mats, and lamb s wool hides complement the earthen walls. Most rooms have good-size bathrooms with ceramic or copper basins atop stone pedestals and walk-in showers. 13

14 Day 9: Tuesday, 16 June Atlas Mountains & Marrakesh Today s stunning drive takes us into the often snow-capped western region of the High Atlas mountains and the Tizi n Tichka pass, before descending to the Haouz plains and the fabled city of Marrakesh. We take lunch in the serene gardens of Jardin Majorelle, followed by a visit to the local education centre and clinic of SPANA (Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad). After witnessing this animal welfare organization s unparalleled work in treating Marrakesh s many beasts of burden, we board a SPANA-licensed horse-driven carriage, called a calèche, for the 20- minute ride into the city s ancient medina. The final section of our day s journey must take place on foot, as we walk through the narrow medina laneways to our luxury riad-hotel. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: La Maison Arabe ( Our drive through the western section of the High Atlas winds past the contrasting landscape of barren cliffs and lush valleys as well as a few small Berber villages seemingly clinging to the cliffface. We eventually climb up to the 2,260m (7,415ft) high Tizi n Tichka pass. This spectacular feat of French engineering, completed by the Foreign Legion in 1936, was forced upon the colonial ruler due to the enduring control of the original pass by the el Glaoui family - one of the three Lords of the Atlas clans that ruled the mountains and whose mud-walled kasbahs are dotted all through the western High Atlas. At the top of the Tizi n Tichka mountain pass Jardin Majorelle botanical garden was created in the 1920s by French artist Jacques Majorelle and reflects his affection for contrast and strong color. Since 1980 the garden has been owned by haute couture icons Pierre Bergé and, until his death in 2008, Algerian-born designer Yves Saint-Laurent. The scent and color of bamboo thickets, huge cacti, multi-colored bougainvillea, and towering palms is offset by the brilliant cobalt-blue of Majorelle s former studio, now a small but fascinating Berber Museum housing a collection of North African artefacts largely belonging to Bergé and Saint-Laurent. Although only 4.8ha (12 acres), the layout of the garden lends itself to a feeling of tranquility and is a welcome break from the busy streets outside. Berber Museum within Jardin Majorelle, Marrakesh 14

15 SPANA (Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad; was founded in the 1920s by two British women, Kate Hosali and her daughter Nina, who were visiting North Africa and appalled at the maltreatment of the region s animals. Today, the British-registered charity operates more than 50 veterinary centres and mobile clinics throughout Africa and the Middle East, Asia, and South America, and treats more than 300,000 animals annually. SPANA has been working in Morocco since 1925, and today this work covers a broad spectrum of issues, such as providing free veterinary care to working animals, training Moroccan student vets, educating local schoolchildren (and often their teachers) on environmental matters, and providing a mobile veterinary unit. In Marrakesh, SPANA operates an educational centre, animal refuge and veterinary hospital, which we visit today. This centre, one of the largest in the country, has information about their work; interactive displays showing the link between the environment, animals, and humans; and a steady stream of patients in its busy clinic. The centre also issues licenses to calèche drivers and implants a microchip into each horse s neck to effectively track its medical history. Unhealthy horses are issued a ticket, and a second consecutive ticket results in the horse being admitted as a patient ensuring only the fit are working on the street. Medina transport is usually by donkey and mule Calèche ride through the busy streets of Marrakesh Tucked away within Marrakesh s ancient walls, La Maison Arabe opened in 1946 as the city s first restaurant open to foreigners Winston Churchill always got the corner table, and the Aga Khan, Charles de Gaulle and Jackie Kennedy dined here too and was rapidly proclaimed by critics as one of the greatest restaurants in the world. Owner-managed by Parisienne madame Susanne Larochette-Sebillon into her eighties, she was forced to close the restaurant in 1983 due to her failing health. It remained abandoned and in disrepair for over ten years until 1994, when Frabrizio Ruspoli, an Italian nobleman who spent much of his childhood in North Africa, bought it from her. After four years of meticulous refurbishment and redesign, what had been Morocco s first real restaurant reopened in 1998 as Morocco s first real boutique riad-cum-hotel. The redesign retained the original s charm and old-school elegance as well as its culinary heritage, with a new restaurant and state-of-the-art teaching kitchen. La Maison Arabe offers luxurious and spacious rooms, all individually designed with their own quirks and charms. Many have private terraces and open fireplaces, and all have a great deal of Moroccan authenticity, using local art and decorations. There are several cozy living rooms dotted around a delightful inner garden courtyard and serene swimming pool, as well as an in-house hammam offering massages accompanied by the sound of trickling water fountains. Berber herboriste Acrobats Public dentist Gnawa musician Images from the ancient medina of Marrakesh 15

16 Day 10: Wednesday, 17 June Marrakesh medina Marrakesh thrives as North Africa s imaginative and creative centre, and is eccentric, enchanting, exhausting, enticing, and exasperating all within a moment s difference. Berber in origin, the city looks and feels like the very definition of a Moroccan desert capital and is a true crossroads of Africa, Arabia, and Europe. We experience some of this exotic allure today, by first enjoying a morning s entertaining cooking workshop with a local dada (traditional Moroccan cook). After a lunch enjoying the fruits of our morning s labor, we join Darren for an afternoon meander through this fascinating medieval medina. Darren s informal history lesson will be interspersed with various sights of interest and many photographic and shopping opportunities, as well as stops for a glass of refreshing mint tea or something stronger. This evening we join the masses enjoying the visual extravaganza that is the Jemaa el Fna, and dine at one of the hundred or so al frescoe food stalls that set up on this famous square come late afternoon. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: La Maison Arabe ( Marrakesh is surrounded by extensive palm groves, yet there are also sandy, arid areas that, when combined, give the city a semi-saharan feel. An imperial capital on more than one occasion, this ochre-coloured city has a surprisingly limited number of attractions, but it offers a complete sensory experience that is immediately captivating. Its dynamic mix of traditional folklore and exotic imagery is drawing record numbers of travelers (and settlers) from l Occident (the West) into its ancient, bustling medina. Amidst this surge in popularity, Marrakesh has still managed to preserve its individual mystique and timeless allure. The daily life in the medina is, for the most part, absolutely authentic and has just about got it all: shops and souks specializing in most of the country s renowned crafts; a central square - Jemaa el Fna - where the most fascinating spectacle takes place daily; and a plethora of accommodations and restaurants, ranging from traditional and conservative, through to exotically Orientale and ultra-chic. Enjoying something of a renaissance over the past few years, Moroccan food is one of the world s most recognizable flavors. Few other countries have national dishes so evocative of the country itself and La Maison Arabe, known in the past as one of North Africa s most legendary restaurants, today offers a truly excellent cookery workshop that gives us an opportunity to discover the delights and pleasures of preparing this wonderful cuisine. With an English translator at hand, our experience starts with a foray into the local produce souk and a general introduction to Moroccan cooking, highlighting the importance of food in Moroccan society and the role played over the centuries by the dada the traditional female cook and housekeeper. Returning to La Maison Arabe s custom-designed workshop kitchen, we then put our new knowledge into practice, with a detailed explanation of the recipe of the day and the ingredients that will be used. A fun and entertaining experience rather than a stern and serious cooking instruction, this morning s workshop is an enjoyable introduction to Morocco s traditional recipes such as pastilla, couscous and the various tagines. When all the cooking is done, we dine on our morning s creations and discover who the master chef among us is. Jemma el Fna is a sensory extravaganza like nowhere else in the world. Marrakesh s famed square is the setting for an incredible spectacle that begins every morning with snake charmers, West African-descended Gnawa musicians, and veiled nakkachat women ready to tattoo any bare piece of flesh with their henna-based designs. Come late afternoon, they are joined by all manner of performers - acrobats, dancers, musicians, fortune tellers and storytellers. Also at this time of the day, the square s heart converts to the country s largest open-air restaurant, with over 100 food carts offering traditional dishes such as couscous and tagine, along with specialties like boiled escargot and roasted sheep s head. All the while, surrounding the show is a circle of stalls selling freshly squeezed orange juice and dried fruits and nuts. A photographic smorgasbord, Darren will be on hand to assist in our requests for photographs and the accompanying appeals by the subjects for payment. 16

17 Day 11: Thursday, 18 June Essaouira We venture to the Atlantic coast today and explore the compact, traveller-friendly medina of Essaouira. During our walk, Darren will introduce us to this laid-back port town s eclectic mix of art galleries, bustling souks, atmospheric cafes and unique shops. There s also a large open square, great for a coffee break and a spot of quality people-watching, which leads onto a quaint port where local fishermen still bring in the daily catch and mend their nets. After a sumptuous lunch of fresh seafood, we return to Marrakesh via one of the region s all-female argan co-operatives, where we are introduced to the endemic argan tree and its many various uses, both culinary and medicinal. This evening we make our way to a quiet side-street in Marrakesh s French-designed Ville Nouvelle (New City), arriving at a non-descript building with large wooden doors that just happen to open into La Catanzaro - a family-run Italian-Swiss trattoria and one of Marrakesh s most popular dining institutions. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: La Maison Arabe ( Meandering through the medina of Essaouira Local women s argan co-operative Esaaouira is by popular acclaim Morocco s most likeable resort: an eighteenth-century town enclosed by medieval-looking battlements. Its whitewashed and blue-shuttered houses and colonnades, wood workshops and art galleries, boat-builders and sardine fishermen and feathery Norfolk Island pines all provide a colorful and very pleasant backdrop to the wide crescentshaped Essaouira Bay. In 2001, the medina was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in recognition of its unique mix of European and North African architecture, and has become a popular summertime abode for all manner of creative types - artists, photographers, movie stars, musicians - but now also hosts those more interested in wind and surf, along with travelers more intent on relaxation. Today s walk with Darren through the medina takes us past small shops selling everything from local thuya woodcrafts and argan oil-based products, to hippie clothing, jewelry, and handmade leather goods, as well as the various souks, such as Souk des Bijoutiers (jeweler s souk), Place Marché de Grains (old corn market), and Marché d Epices (spice souk). 17

18 Day 12: Friday, 19 June Atlas Mountains & Imlil We leave behind bustling Marrakesh today for a refreshing journey into the High Atlas Mountains. This area is one of the most scenic regions in all of Morocco - a land of majestic snowcapped mountains, verdant valleys, terraced fields, flowing rivers and remote Berber villages. Our destination is the quaint village of Imlil, where we take lunch under the powerful stare of North Africa s highest peak, the 4,167m-high (13,671-ft.) Jebel (Mount) Toubkal. Today we also meet the Moroccan NGO Education For All, to hear of its ongoing work in providing educational and boarding facilities to this mountainous region s underprivileged schoolgirls. Later today we call into Marrakesh s state-run Artisanal Ensemble for some final shopping, and this evening our farewell dinner is in the palatial surroundings of La Maison Arabe. (Breakfast, lunch & dinner included) Accommodation: La Maison Arabe ( I must be with you when you see the sunset on the snows of the Atlas Mountains, said Sir Winston Churchill to President Franklin D. Roosevelt as they headed for Marrakesh after the Allies Casablanca Conference in The High Atlas village of Imlil, 1,740m (5,708ft) above sea level and a steep road climb up the Aït Mizane Valley, is a pleasant and deafeningly quiet place surrounded by terraces of almond, apple, cherry, and walnut trees. In 1996, Oscar-winning director Martin Scorsese transformed the village and surrounding peaks into Tibet for his film biography of the Dalai Lama, Kundun. A waste disposal system, now self-funded, was welcome compensation for the village s inconvenience. In 2004, a communal hammam was constructed as a result of another fundraising initiative, and is now an important focal point for residents of Imlil and the surrounding villages. Snow-capped peaks overlooking the High Atlas village of Imlil Every year in Morocco, especially in the country s more remote areas, tens of thousands of schoolaged children are deprived of their right to education because of poverty and lack of basic infrastructure. Of those that do attend school, very few (especially girls) from rural communities get the opportunity of continuing their education after primary school. In the High Atlas region, the higher learning colleges are not accessible to schoolgirls because 1. their parents cannot afford to pay for lodgings; 2. parents don t want their daughters to be away from their rural communities; or 3. the colleges are inaccessible or far away from the rural villages. To help tackle this, a Moroccan NGO called Education For All ( is building and running four (soon-to-be-five) girls boarding houses near secondary colleges in the western High Atlas region, allowing over 100 girls from rural families to continue their education. Compass Odyssey has pledged to donate $100 per 2015 Morocco Safari traveller to this hands-on, lifechanging organisation. 18

19 Day 13: Saturday, 20 June Farewell Morocco After breakfast we shall bid farewell and ma sallama as we board our private transfer to either Marrakech-Menara International Airport or Gare de Marrakech train station. Those of us with an afternoon departure or who otherwise have the morning free may choose to further explore the alleyways of the medina, attack the souks for some bargains, or even head out to the boutique shops in the Ville Nouvelle. (Breakfast included) During our safari through Morocco we will witness natural and unspoilt beauty, be exposed to a fascinating culture and history, and experience genuine Arab-African hospitality. We have a deep regard for Morocco and truly believe that it is a country filled with unforgettable travel experiences, and we re sure you ll feel the same after travelling on this Compass Odyssey journey with us. Ila liqaa ( See you soon ) 19

20 RAMADAN Ramadan the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar is when Mohammed received the first of his revelations from God, or as the Muslims describe it: when the Koran was sent down from heaven, a guidance unto men, a declaration of direction, and a means of Salvation. Ramadan in 2015 is expected to begin on the 18 th of June, two days before the end of our safari. It is during Ramadan that Muslims observe a strict fast originally modelled on similar Jewish and Christian practices and is intended as a time of worship and contemplation. During the day all forms of consumption are forbidden including eating, smoking, drinking and any form of sexual contact. However, this is only the outward show of what is intended as a deeper, spiritual cleansing and strengthening of faith. One hadith says There are many who fast all day and pray all night, but they gain nothing but hunger and sleeplessness. All Muslims who have reached puberty and are able to do so are expected to observe the fast of Ramadan. It is generally accepted that the elderly and the chronically ill are exempt, as are those who are sick or travelling, mothers who are nursing, and menstruating or pregnant women, all of whom are encouraged to feed one poor person for every day of fasting missed. Children are also not required to fast, although their families may encourage them to do so for part of a day or for a few days during the month so as to begin to experience this particular aspect of Ramadan. At the end of the day the fast is broken with a light meal followed by the sunset prayer, which is then followed by an evening meal called the iftar. Muslims are encouraged to share iftar with family, friends and neighbors as well as the poor and non-muslims. The fast is resumed the next morning, traditionally when you can plainly distinguish a white thread from a black thread by the daylight. The last ten days of Ramadan are considered especially important and many Muslims retreat to their mosque or other community centres for prayer and reciting the Koran. Laylat al- Qadr (the Night of Power) is a special night of prayer commemorating Mohammed receiving the first revelation of the Koran. It is believed that this is when heaven is open to the faithful and God determines the course of the world for the following year. When the crescent of the new moon of the tenth month rises, Ramadan ends with Eid al-fitr (Feast of Fast Breaking). The feast lasts for three days and besides an obviously religiously significant time, it is also a time for social festivities. Friends and family congregate to greet and congratulate each other, older family members and neighbors are visited and loved ones who have passed away are remembered. Villages and towns may also hold festivals or events to celebrate this time. How will Ramadan influence our 2015 Morocco Safari? In a practical sense, our extensive knowledge of Morocco and Darren s excellent relationship with our local guides, restaurants and accommodations will ensure that any inconvenience is minimal. Morocco is a relatively modern country and Moroccans understand that business must go on and that the non-muslim world is still working and travelling. The most visible part of the Ramadan day for us is at the end of the day. The half hour or so before sunset is a frantic rush for Moroccans to finish their work, pack up their shop, and head home for the breaking of the fast. Some travelers complain of abrupt service and irregular opening hours during Ramadan, even the noise generated by masses of Moroccans enjoying the nightly freedom from the fast which can admittedly continue sometimes through to dawn. However, by simply displaying a bit of respect, knowledge and restraint we can at the very least still enjoy our travels, whilst showing even a hint of inquisitiveness can result in an invitation to share in some of the brotherhood and deep sense of faith that abounds in Morocco during Ramadan. We consider it an added bonus that we will experience a day or two of this truly spiritual time within Morocco, and we re sure our fellow travelers will feel the same. 20

21 OUR ESCORT Compass Odyssey s 2015 Morocco Safari is escorted by writer, photographer and experienced tour guide, Darren Humphrys. Darren joined the Aussie backpacker pilgrimage to London back in 1987, and has been wandering around the globe ever since. In 1997 he traveled on an epic 2-month overland safari through East and Southern Africa. A life-changing experience, he loved it so much that by the end of the safari he already had a job as a tour leader. Since then, in addition to guiding regular tours through Africa and the Middle East, Darren has researched, constructed, and guided exploratory expeditions in Egypt, Libya, Morocco and Tunisia, and has also led educational and training tours in Jordan, Morocco, Syria, Turkey and from eastern Africa (Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania and the D.R. of Congo) down through central southern Africa (Malawi, Zambia) to the southern African countries of Angola, Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, Swaziland and South Africa. A passionate traveler-cum-creative soul at heart, Darren is the author of the Frommer s Morocco guidebook, has contributed to the Footprint Namibia, Rough Guide Morocco and Rough Guide Turkey guidebooks, and has provided travel articles for South Africa s OUT THERE magazine as well as Western Australia s major daily newspaper, The West Australian. In addition to a 10-week photographic assignment in Nigeria for the Bradt Nigeria guidebook, Darren s photographic images have appeared in the Bradt Africa Overland and Rough Guide Morocco guidebooks, and numerous international publications including Africa Geographic, Africa Overland by Lizzie Williams, Time Out, the Royal Geographical Society s Geographical magazine and UNESCO s The World Heritage annual wall calendar. Through his extensive travels and guiding throughout much of Africa over the past seventeen years, including many wonderful and enjoyable tours in Morocco, Darren has acquired a deep knowledge of the continent s many and varied faces - such as her traditions, music, religions and faiths, cuisine, history and wildlife - and also harbors a keen (and often vocal) interest in the current events shaping the future of both Morocco and the African continent as a whole. Throughout your journey, Morocco s culture, arts & crafts, customs, religion, history, cuisine, and music will be brought to life by Darren s renowned enthusiastic, yet easy-going and respectful guiding style. An accomplished photographer who is always eager to offer artistic and technical advice, Darren will conduct a number of tutorials along the way that accommodates all levels of photographic ability from the novice point-and-shooter to the knowledgeable enthusiast. Darren and Kate s understanding of both the Moroccan and Western cultures, combined with their immense (and current) range of contacts within Morocco s tourism, accommodation, and restaurant sectors, assures Compass Odyssey clients of a fascinating journey studded with unique experiences, memorable moments and authentic encounters that benefit both local and visitor. Compass Odyssey also uses the services of specialist local guides as much as possible. All of our guides are personally chosen by us indeed they are our close friends. Each guide speaks fluent English, and brings to our Morocco Safari their individual passion and personality that only serves to strengthen the essence of a Compass Odyssey journey. Darren on assignment in Nigeria Darren with our expert local guides, Rachid (left) from Marrakesh and Hassan (right) from Fez. 21