Compass Odyssey Morocco Safari

Transcription

1 Compass Odyssey Morocco Safari (escorted and fully inclusive) 13 days/12 nights, 8-20 June 2015 GUARANTEED DEPARTURE $4990 per person Join writer, photographer and experienced tour guide Darren Humphrys on our 2015 Morocco Safari, visiting one of Africa s most fascinating countries. At the crossroads of Africa, Arabia and Europe, Morocco is an exotic, vibrant, and exciting land of intriguing culture, mesmerizing landscapes, great shopping and renowned hospitality. Journey to Morocco today and you can still marvel at the quintessential North African images of ancient walled cities, desert-crossing camel caravans, mud-walled kasbahs shaded by tall date palms, mosque minarets silhouetted against the setting sun, refined Arab intellectuals and rugged Saharan nomads. However, this is also a youthful country that is fast becoming a leading nation bridging the differences between l Orient (the East) and l Occident (the West). Independent from the French since 1956, Morocco s largely under-40 population is being led into a complicated 21st-century by a young king - the jet-skiing, mountain-hiking Mohammed VI who is intent on retaining his kingdom s unique diversity and traditional customs, while encouraging tourism as a major form of economic advancement. Tradition and development sit comfortably side-by-side here, producing a land of contrasts that offers the interested onlooker an endless supply of memorable travel experiences. Combine this with the unsurpassed local knowledge of our tour escort, Frommer s Morocco author Darren Humphrys, and our 2015 Morocco Safari promises to be an unforgettable journey. Berber tribesman Morocco s flag Saharan musician

2 SAFARI OVERVIEW Day 1: Day 2: Day 3: Day 4: Day 5: Day 6: Day 7: Day 8: Day 9: Day 10: Day 11: Day 12: Day 13: Welcome to Morocco Casablanca & Rabat Fez via Meknes & the Roman ruins of Volubilis Fez el-bali (Old Fez) medina Atlas Mountains & Moroccan Sahara Moroccan Sahara Todra Oasis & Gorge Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs Atlas Mountains & Marrakesh Marrakesh medina Essaouira Atlas Mountains & Imlil Farewell Morocco Our Morocco Safari commences in Casablanca and ends in Marrakesh. Those travelers who need to return to Casablanca can either fly (45 minutes) or travel overland by train (5 hours), and we can organize either of these journeys for you. We welcome travelers of all ages on this safari, and there s no special level of fitness required. However some hotel bathrooms may require stepping into a bathtub to access the overhead shower. While there s a fair amount of walking involved both on organized guided walks and during our own exploring it takes place on relatively flat ground and is generally very manageable unless you plan to scale the highest sand dune! Darren and our Compass Odyssey crew will always be available to assist those who wish to leave the group for some less strenuous exploration or who need assistance with their luggage. Veiled nakkachat henna artist 2

3 SAFARI DETAILS Dates: 8-20 June, 2015 Duration: 13 days/12 nights Cost: $4990 p.p. Group Size: Minimum 8, Maximum 16 Included: All transport and en-suite accommodation All meals and non-alcoholic drinks All entrances Fez medina, Kasbah Amridil, Hassan II Mosque, Todra Oasis & Gorge, and Volubilis guided walks with specialist guides Essaouira, Marrakesh, Meknes & Rabat medina guided walks African Gnawa & Arab-Andalucían private musical performances Camel desert trek with sunset drinks Moroccan cooking workshop SPANA animal welfare clinic visit Argan oil women s co-operative visit Henna hand-painting experience Education For All presentation Fully escorted tour including on-board photographic tutorials and advice Arrival (Casablanca) & departure (Marrakesh) airport transfers Gratuities for all guides, drivers, domestics, porters and wait staff Not Included: Any airfares and accompanying airport/airline taxes Personal travel insurance All other personal expenses such as alcoholic drinks & laundry The per person cost is quoted in U.S. dollars, and based on two adults travelling together within a minimum group size of 8 adults. While this safari is guaranteed to depart, there may be a surcharge should the minimum group size not be reached. If you are travelling solo, we do charge a single supplement but will first try to twin you with a fellow solo traveller should you wish. 3

4 SAFARI ITINERARY Day 1: Monday, 8 June Welcome to Morocco Today we greet you at Casablanca s Mohammed V International Airport and after assisting you with any requirements such as exchanging money into the local Moroccan dirham (MAD), we transfer you to our luxury boutique hotel in the city s downtown French Quarter, or Ville Nouvelle. This evening we gather for pre-dinner drinks before enjoying some fine Moroccan cuisine as well as a fair dose of Hollywood nostalgia - at the nearby Rick s Café. (Apéritifs & dinner included) Hôtel Le Doge Day 2: Tuesday, 9 June Hassan II Mosque & Rabat This morning we visit Morocco s premier contemporary architectural showpiece Casablanca s Hassan II Mosque. Accompanied by a specialist guide, our walk through its impressive interior is a unique opportunity for non-muslim travelers, who are usually denied entry into the country s mosques. We then travel north to the capital city of Rabat for an afternoon s meander with Darren, who will bring to life this seaside city s monuments and attractions, such as the Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the Kasbah des Oudaïas, as well as Rabat s shopper-friendly medina. This evening we stay at a luxury maison d hôte (guesthouse) located on the outskirts of the city. Villa Mandarine Day 3: Wednesday, 10 June Fez via Meknes & the Roman ruins of Volubilis We now venture inland to Morocco s cultural heart, beginning with Meknes, the lesser-visited of the country s former imperial cities. Darren will first take us to the shrine of the country s longestserving ruler, the notorious Sultan Moulay Ismail, followed by a sensory stroll within Souk Atriya, the medina s lively covered market that houses all manner of produce, from cakes to chameleons, olives to goat s heads. We then travel to what was the southern-most outpost of the Roman Empire, Volubilis and here we take a private walk through the ruins of this UNESCO World Heritage site with specialist guide, Mr Abdelhay Grirrane. The ancient metropolis of Fez then beckons, and we arrive in time to hear the muezzin s sunset call to prayer emanating from this spiritual city s many (over 100) mosques. Our accommodation is situated within the medieval walls of the Fez el-bali (Old Fez) medina, and is a former residence - called a riad or dar in Arabic - that has been restored and refurbished into a luxury guesthouse. Riad Myra Day 4: Thursday, 11 June Fez el-bali (Old Fez) medina Fez is the most ancient, and indeed the greatest of Morocco s imperial cities and within the walls of the Fez el Bali (Old Fez) medina, lies the world s largest intact medieval city. More than 9,500 narrow streets and dim alleyways wind endlessly up and down, around and around, crammed with people, music, noise, and smells. Today we experience Fez el-bali with Mr Hassan el Janah, a Fassi local and one of Morocco s most distinguished guides. During our day s walk we visit a number of sights and attractions within the medina s cobbled streets, including leather dye pits, a traditional fondouk, the henna souk, the bustling potter s quarter, and the exquisitely restored medersa of Bou Inania. Within our riad this evening, we are treated to an exclusive Arab- Andalusian musical performance featuring the beautiful, almost spiritual sound of the Arabian oud guitar. During the evening, we are also joined by a local henna artist who will gladly tattoo our hands in the traditional Arabic style. Riad Myra 4

5 Day 5: Friday, 12 June Atlas Mountains & Moroccan Sahara Today s long drive is an amazing, picturesque journey through a myriad of Morocco s landscapes. We first ascend the Middle Atlas Mountains, and hopefully encounter a troop of the endemic Barbary Macaque within the range s aromatic cedar forests. We venture even higher to then cross the dramatic, barren High Atlas range. Marveling at the deep ravines of the Ziz Gorge, we then descend onto the vast pre-saharan plains. We follow the oases and palmeraies to the very end, where we encounter our breathtaking destination, the Moroccan Sahara. Tonight we stay in our deluxe auberge (country inn) by the dunes. Dar el Janoub Day 6: Saturday, 13 June Moroccan Sahara Our auberge is located on the very edge of the sand sea and today we slow down to desert time. This morning is ours to relax and delight under the warm Saharan sun, perhaps with a good book beside the pool, or join Darren on an informal photographic tutorial to capture some images of the ever-changing desert colors. This afternoon Darren introduces us to the trance-like gnawa rhythms that originated in Mali and West Africa and were brought to Morocco by former slaves and camelherders, some of whom we visit in a village nearby. Later in the day we embark on a short camel trek into the desert and marvel at the Saharan sunset over a glass of local wine, followed by more gnawa music and a mechoui roast lamb feast back at Dar el Janoub. (Breakfast, lunch, sunset drinks & dinner included) Dar el Janoub Day 7: Sunday, 14 June Todra Oasis & Gorge After welcoming a new day as the sun rises over the Moroccan Sahara, today we journey alongside the southern flank of the High Atlas Mountains to the Todra Oasis. We take lunch in the welcoming company of local restaurateur and guide Mr El Houssaïne Abdel Fadel ( call me Hassan ), who escorts us on an enjoyable and informative afternoon walk along the cultivated riverbed of Todra s lush valley, or palmeraie, to the stunning natural wonder that is Todra Gorge. Hotel Amazir Day 8: Monday, 15 June Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs We continue our desert-fringed journey in the shadow of the High Atlas Mountains, and encounter the numerous oases and palmeraies that are a lifeline for the local Berbers living in their mud-walled villages and earthen kasbahs. This region is popularized as the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, and today we ll take a private tour with Mr. Réda Nassiri through the castle-like Kasbah Amridil, on our way to the famous kasbah village of Aït ben Haddou. Dar Mouna Day 9: Tuesday, 16 June Atlas Mountains & Marrakesh Today s stunning drive takes us into the often snow-capped western region of the High Atlas mountains and the Tizi n Tichka pass, before descending to the Haouz plains and the fabled city of Marrakesh. We take lunch in the serene gardens of Jardin Majorelle, followed by a visit to the local education centre and clinic of SPANA (Society for the Protection of Animals Abroad). After witnessing this animal welfare organization s unparalleled work in treating Marrakesh s many beasts of burden, we board a SPANA-licensed horse-driven carriage, called a calèche, for the 20- minute ride into the city s ancient medina. The final section of our day s journey must take place on foot, as we walk through the narrow medina laneways to our luxury riad-hotel. La Maison Arabe 5

6 Day 10: Wednesday, 17 June Marrakesh medina Marrakesh thrives as North Africa s imaginative and creative centre, and is eccentric, enchanting, exhausting, enticing, and exasperating all within a moment s difference. Berber in origin, the city looks and feels like the very definition of a Moroccan desert capital and is a true crossroads of Africa, Arabia, and Europe. We experience some of this exotic allure today, by first enjoying a morning s entertaining cooking workshop with a local dada (traditional Moroccan cook). After a lunch enjoying the fruits of our morning s labor, we join Darren for an afternoon meander through this fascinating medieval medina. Darren s informal history lesson will be interspersed with various sights of interest and many photographic and shopping opportunities, as well as stops for a glass of refreshing mint tea or something stronger. This evening we join the masses enjoying the visual extravaganza that is the Jemaa el Fna, and dine at one of the hundred or so al frescoe food stalls that set up on this famous square come late afternoon. La Maison Arabe Day 11: Thursday, 18 June Essaouira We venture to the Atlantic coast today and explore the compact, traveller-friendly medina of Essaouira. During our walk, Darren will introduce us to this laid-back port town s eclectic mix of art galleries, bustling souks, atmospheric cafes and unique shops. There s also a large open square, great for a coffee break and a spot of quality people-watching, which leads onto a quaint port where local fishermen still bring in the daily catch and mend their nets. After a sumptuous lunch of fresh seafood, we return to Marrakesh via one of the region s all-female argan co-operatives, where we are introduced to the endemic argan tree and its many various uses, both culinary and medicinal. This evening we make our way to a quiet side-street in Marrakesh s French-designed Ville Nouvelle (New City), arriving at a non-descript building with large wooden doors that just happen to open into La Catanzaro - a family-run Italian-Swiss trattoria and one of Marrakesh s most popular dining institutions. La Maison Arabe Day 12: Friday, 19 June Atlas Mountains & Imlil We leave behind bustling Marrakesh today for a refreshing journey into the High Atlas Mountains. This area is one of the most scenic regions in all of Morocco - a land of majestic snowcapped mountains, verdant valleys, terraced fields, flowing rivers and remote Berber villages. Our destination is the quaint village of Imlil, where we take lunch under the powerful stare of North Africa s highest peak, the 4,167m-high (13,671-ft.) Jebel (Mount) Toubkal. Today we also meet the Moroccan NGO Education For All, to hear of its ongoing work in providing educational and boarding facilities to this mountainous region s underprivileged schoolgirls. Later today we call into Marrakesh s state-run Artisanal Ensemble for some final shopping, and this evening our farewell dinner is in the palatial surroundings of La Maison Arabe. La Maison Arabe Day 13: Saturday, 20 June Farewell Morocco After breakfast we shall bid farewell and ma sallama as we board our private transfer to either Marrakech-Menara International Airport or Gare de Marrakech train station. Those of us with an afternoon departure or who otherwise have the morning free may choose to further explore the alleyways of the medina, attack the souks for some bargains, or even head out to the boutique shops in the Ville Nouvelle. (Breakfast included) 6

7 RAMADAN Ramadan the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar is when Mohammed received the first of his revelations from God, or as the Muslims describe it: when the Koran was sent down from heaven, a guidance unto men, a declaration of direction, and a means of Salvation. Ramadan in 2015 is expected to begin on the 18 th of June, two days before the end of our safari. It is during Ramadan that Muslims observe a strict fast originally modelled on similar Jewish and Christian practices and is intended as a time of worship and contemplation. During the day all forms of consumption are forbidden including eating, smoking, drinking and any form of sexual contact. However, this is only the outward show of what is intended as a deeper, spiritual cleansing and strengthening of faith. One hadith says There are many who fast all day and pray all night, but they gain nothing but hunger and sleeplessness. All Muslims who have reached puberty and are able to do so are expected to observe the fast of Ramadan. It is generally accepted that the elderly and the chronically ill are exempt, as are those who are sick or travelling, mothers who are nursing, and menstruating or pregnant women, all of whom are encouraged to feed one poor person for every day of fasting missed. Children are also not required to fast, although their families may encourage them to do so for part of a day or for a few days during the month so as to begin to experience this particular aspect of Ramadan. At the end of the day the fast is broken with a light meal followed by the sunset prayer, which is then followed by an evening meal called the iftar. Muslims are encouraged to share iftar with family, friends and neighbors as well as the poor and non-muslims. The fast is resumed the next morning, traditionally when you can plainly distinguish a white thread from a black thread by the daylight. The last ten days of Ramadan are considered especially important and many Muslims retreat to their mosque or other community centres for prayer and reciting the Koran. Laylat al-qadr (the Night of Power) is a special night of prayer commemorating Mohammed receiving the first revelation of the Koran. It is believed that this is when heaven is open to the faithful and God determines the course of the world for the following year. When the crescent of the new moon of the tenth month rises, Ramadan ends with Eid al-fitr (Feast of Fast Breaking). The feast lasts for three days and besides an obviously religiously significant time, it is also a time for social festivities. Friends and family congregate to greet and congratulate each other, older family members and neighbors are visited and loved ones who have passed away are remembered. Villages and towns may also hold festivals or events to celebrate this time. How will Ramadan influence our 2015 Morocco Safari? In a practical sense, our extensive knowledge of Morocco and Darren s excellent relationship with our local guides, restaurants and accommodations will ensure that any inconvenience is minimal. Morocco is a relatively modern country and Moroccans understand that business must go on and that the non-muslim world is still working and travelling. The most visible part of the Ramadan day for us is at the end of the day. The half hour or so before sunset is a frantic rush for Moroccans to finish their work, pack up their shop, and head home for the breaking of the fast. Some travelers complain of abrupt service and irregular opening hours during Ramadan, even the noise generated by masses of Moroccans enjoying the nightly freedom from the fast which can admittedly continue sometimes through to dawn. However, by simply displaying a bit of respect, knowledge and restraint we can at the very least still enjoy our travels, whilst showing even a hint of inquisitiveness can result in an invitation to share in some of the brotherhood and deep sense of faith that abounds in Morocco during Ramadan. We consider it an added bonus that we will experience a day or two of this truly spiritual time within Morocco, and we re sure our fellow travelers will feel the same. 7

8 OUR ESCORT Compass Odyssey s 2015 Morocco Safari is escorted by writer, photographer and experienced tour guide, Darren Humphrys. Darren joined the Aussie backpacker pilgrimage to London back in 1987, and has been wandering around the globe ever since. In 1997 he traveled on an epic 2-month overland safari through East and Southern Africa. A "life-changing" experience, he loved it so much that by the end of the safari he already had a job as a tour leader. Since then, in addition to guiding regular tours through Africa and the Middle East, Darren has researched, constructed, and guided exploratory expeditions in Egypt, Libya, Morocco and Tunisia, and has also led educational and training tours in Jordan, Morocco, Syria, Turkey and from eastern Africa (Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania and the D.R. of Congo) down through central southern Africa (Malawi, Zambia) to the southern African countries of Angola, Botswana, Mozambique, Namibia, Swaziland and South Africa. A passionate traveler-cum-creative soul at heart, Darren is the author of the Frommer s Morocco guidebook, has contributed to the Footprint Namibia, Rough Guide Morocco and Rough Guide Turkey guidebooks, and has provided travel articles for South Africa s OUT THERE magazine as well as Western Australia s major daily newspaper, The West Australian. In addition to a 10-week photographic assignment in Nigeria for the Bradt Nigeria guidebook, Darren's photographic images have appeared in the Bradt Africa Overland and Rough Guide Morocco guidebooks, and numerous international publications including Africa Geographic, Africa Overland by Lizzie Williams, Time Out, the Royal Geographical Society s Geographical magazine and UNESCO s The World Heritage annual wall calendar. Through his extensive travels and guiding throughout much of Africa over the past seventeen years, including many wonderful and enjoyable tours in Morocco, Darren has acquired a deep knowledge of the continent's many and varied faces - such as her traditions, music, religions and faiths, cuisine, history and wildlife - and also harbors a keen (and often vocal) interest in the current events shaping the future of both Morocco and the African continent as a whole. Throughout your journey, Morocco s culture, arts & crafts, customs, religion, history, cuisine, and music will be brought to life by Darren s renowned enthusiastic, yet easy-going and respectful guiding style. An accomplished photographer who is always eager to offer artistic and technical advice, Darren will conduct a number of tutorials along the way that accommodates all levels of photographic ability from the novice point-and-shooter to the knowledgeable enthusiast. Darren and Kate s understanding of both the Moroccan and Western cultures, combined with their immense (and current) range of contacts within Morocco s tourism, accommodation, and restaurant sectors, assures Compass Odyssey clients of a fascinating journey studded with unique experiences, memorable moments and authentic encounters that benefit both local and visitor. Compass Odyssey also uses the services of specialist local guides as much as possible. All of our guides are personally chosen by us indeed they are our close friends. Each guide speaks fluent English, and brings to our Morocco Safari their individual passion and personality that only serves to strengthen the essence of a Compass Odyssey journey. Darren on assignment in Nigeria Darren with our expert local guides, Rachid (left) from Marrakesh and Hassan (right) from Fez. 8

9 Safari Cost We understand and appreciate that our fellow travelers entrust us to offer a value-for-money journey. Managed and operated solely by Kate and Darren, the comparatively small structure of Compass Odyssey affords real savings that are ultimately passed on to every Compass Odyssey traveler, something that tour operators with larger structures are perhaps unable to do. In a bid to entice travelers purely by price, many tours exclude lunch or dinners and only offer activities as optional extras that are payable on-tour. Besides the obvious inconvenience of having to budget these expenses into one s spending money, these additional costs can become a heavy financial burden by the time the tour commences due to currency fluctuations. Included in the cost of your safari are all entrances, guiding fees, gratuities & tips (including driver), meals and nonalcoholic drinks. The chosen accommodations are also of a much higher standard that those usually found on group tours. Our tour cost is fixed and is only subject to the minimum group size being reached. We therefore truly believe that our Morocco Safari delivers an exceptionally good value travel experience. Pre-Arrival Arriving into Morocco can perhaps be a little overwhelming for some travelers, and we are therefore intent on ensuring a smooth arrival and a fulfilling holiday for you by offering as much pre-departure assistance as we possibly can. Upon making your reservation with us, we will send you our exclusive Morocco pre-safari Information document, which contains a wealth of helpful information gleaned from our many years of welcoming fellow travelers to Morocco. Along with numerous other correspondences offering practical advice, prior to your departure you will also receive your personal Compass Odyssey Safari Dossier, which includes an abridged itinerary with contact details to leave with family and friends. During our first evening together in Casablanca, Darren will offer a few more words of wisdom to help you feel comfortable with being in Morocco, while giving a brief overview of the exciting itinerary that lies ahead. Transport and Driving Time We travel in an air-conditioned mini-bus that provides our driver with easy maneuverability in the busy cities, but also affords us a comfortable ride for our longer days on the open road. The seats are typically high-backed with ample legroom and space underneath for a daypack and a few shopping purchases. Also inside is a cooler box filled with complimentary bottled water, and loudspeakers connected to a microphone and p.a. system that allows Darren to communicate with everyone on-board. During our journey we will request everyone except the driver, of course to swap seats daily, so that we all mingle and get to see Morocco from a different viewpoint. A reasonable amount of territory is covered during our safari, yet even those days dedicated to reaching our particular destination will include some sightseeing or activity. We envisage most traveling days to involve no more than 4 hours total driving time, and we always stop regularly for refreshment and toilet breaks. Meals A culinary experience as much as a sightseeing journey, all meals on our Morocco Safari are included, and are provided by a diverse mix of fine accommodations and authentic restaurants. While the cuisine du jour will obviously be Moroccan, encompassing the country s famous staple dishes like couscous, brochettes (grilled meat on skewers) and the many varieties of tagine, those who on occasion would prefer something more international will be accommodated. A surprising number of our dining establishments are licensed, offering both local and international beers, wine, and spirits. All non-alcoholic drinks, such as bottled water, juices, soft drinks and spirit mixers are provided at no extra cost, while an honesty tab system operates for alcoholic drinks. We also always have a handy supply of sweet & savory biscuits and fresh fruit on-board our vehicle. Please advise us prior to the tour s departure of any special dietary or medical needs, so that we can plan ahead. 9

10 Accommodation We believe we offer a unique, eclectic mix of accommodation styles that defines our Morocco Safari from other companies. As the author of the Frommer s Morocco guidebook and Morocco Travel Info e-guide, Darren personally visits a vast array of establishments in the course of his research. This knowledge and our ensuing relationships with the owners and/or managers has enabled us to select an exceptional range of accommodations that boast a sought-after combination of wellappointed, fashionable rooms in unique and distinctive establishments that are operated in a personal and guest-focused manner. All of our rooms and suites have private en-suite bathrooms. Casablanca, Hôtel le Doge (1 night) Originally an Art Deco villa built in the 1930s by an Italian businessman (as a gift to this wife), Hôtel Le Doge opened in 2010 after two years of meticulous renovation and has a reputation for excellent service and hands-on management. The spacious and individually designed suites are named after cultural icons from the 1920s and 1930s the black and white Coco Chanel suite is suitably refined and uncluttered, while the masculine Hemingway suite is all leather and teak - and you are most welcome to request a particular suite with us. Rabat, Villa Mandarine (1 night) Our accommodation in Rabat is the Villa Mandarine, a former mansion that is now a family-run luxury maison d hôte and offers some of the finest accommodation in Rabat. Although Claudy Imbert, her daughters, and two sons-in-law have been welcoming guests into their 36-room country house since 2001, Villa Mandarine is still one of Rabat s, if not Morocco s, best-kept secrets. The rooms are set out on two levels surrounding a large central courtyard of palm trees, rosebushes, and a mosaic fountain. Tastefully furnished and personally decorated by Claudy herself, the well-appointed rooms are beautiful combinations of natural colors, Berber rugs, Moroccan lamps, and contemporary and traditional artworks; all rooms have their own balcony or patio. The public areas are numerous and include a rustic African bar, large lounge and library, billiards room and fireplace, and a private beauty salon with hammam and on-site masseuse. The large grounds are dotted with citrus trees and have lots of private areas for reading and relaxing, and we ll take dinner tonight in the open and sunny restaurant that is renowned for its fine international and Moroccan fare. Fez, Riad Myra (2 nights) Our stay in Fez is at Riad Myra, the palais d hôte (luxury guesthouse) of the local and highly respected Chab family. The bedrooms are sumptuously furnished and decorated in a mix of traditional-moroccan and antique-english, with heavy drapes and bed covers of royal blue, gold and burgundy. A large courtyard of deep-cushioned lounges surrounds an eight-pointed star fountain and is both a meeting area and restaurant for riad guests. A roof terrace offers private corners for sunbathing and reading. What sets Riad Myra apart from a lot of its competition is its well-trained and professional English-speaking staff, who consistently deliver friendly service in a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere. Moroccan Sahara, Dar el Janoub (2 nights) Dar el Janoub ( House of the South ) is one of the most pleasant auberges on Morocco s Saharan dunes. The lobby wall is adorned with symbols of the Berber alphabet, and from there on managers Omar and Rashid are at our service. Our rooms are constructed from an earth and stone mixture called tabout, and throughout the walled property this earthy theme continues. Inside the rooms are bamboo ceilings, neutral bedcovers made from local textiles, and a pastel-coloured accent wall of the traditional lime-based plaster called tadelakt. The rooms have a small, individual rooftop terrace with dune views, and are deliberately void of TVs and phones to sustain the peaceful atmosphere. A large pool one of the first at Erg Chebbi is well designed, allowing for some privacy while sunbathing. A large restaurant is both air-conditioned and has a fireplace, and opens out to a ground-floor terrace with cane lounges, wrought-iron tables, and direct access to the dunes. An upstairs terrace affords even clearer dune views. 10

11 Accommodation continued... Todra Oasis & Gorge, Hotel Amazir (1 night) The kasbah-like Hotel Amazir lies in the palmeraie and on a bend of the Todra River, and with a constant background of rushing water and bird song is a peaceful spot for us to retire at the end of our day in the Todra Oasis. Our rooms are simply but tastefully furnished and are finished with Berber carpets and natural fiber curtains and bed covers. The large ground-floor restaurant is Moroccan in style with zellij (mosaic tile) and an ornate stucco plaster ceiling, and opens out to a lovely shaded terrace and swimming pool overlooking the river. Aït ben Haddou, Dar Mouna (1 night) We stay in Abdellah Mouna s family-run auberge, Dar Mouna. The first guesthouse in the village and one of the best, Dar Mouna boasts a wide terrace that looks directly over the riverbed to the Abdellah s former family residence in the Aït ben Haddou ksour. Constructed throughout in a traditional mix of earth and stone called tabout, Dar Mouna s main building surrounds a cozy interior courtyard with comfortable lounges. The rustic inward-facing rooms are on two levels opening on to the courtyard. Low-lying beds with natural-fiber spreads and floors covered with Berber rugs, grass mats, and lamb s wool hides complement the earthen walls. Most rooms have good-size bathrooms with ceramic or copper basins atop stone pedestals and walk-in showers. Marrakesh, La Maison Arabe (4 nights) Tucked away within Marrakesh s ancient walls, La Maison Arabe opened in 1946 as the city s first restaurant open to foreigners Winston Churchill always got the corner table, and the Aga Khan, Charles de Gaulle and Jackie Kennedy dined here too and was rapidly proclaimed by critics as one of the greatest restaurants in the world. Owner-managed by Parisienne madame Susanne Larochette-Sebillon into her eighties, she was forced to close the restaurant in 1983 due to her failing health. It remained abandoned and in disrepair for over ten years until 1994, when Frabrizio Ruspoli, an Italian nobleman who spent much of his childhood in North Africa, bought it from her. After four years of meticulous refurbishment and redesign, what had been Morocco s first real restaurant reopened in 1998 as Morocco s first boutique riad-cum-hotel. The redesign retained the original s charm and old-school elegance as well as its culinary heritage, with a new restaurant and state-of-the-art teaching kitchen. La Maison Arabe offers luxurious and spacious rooms, all individually designed with their own quirks and charms. Many have private terraces and open fireplaces, and all have a great deal of Moroccan authenticity, using local art and decorations. There are several cozy living rooms dotted around a delightful inner garden courtyard and serene swimming pool, as well as an in-house hammam offering massages accompanied by the sound of trickling water fountains. During our safari through Morocco we will witness natural and unspoilt beauty, be exposed to a fascinating culture and history, and experience genuine Arab-African hospitality. We have a deep regard for Morocco and truly believe that it is a country filled with unforgettable travel experiences, and we re sure you ll feel the same after travelling on this Compass Odyssey journey with us. Ila liqaa ( See you soon ) 11