Ayyanars: The Guardians of Madras

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Augustus Collins
5 years ago
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1 Ayyanars: The Guardians of Madras Every time I am on a road trip from Chennai, the sight of large Ayynar statues wielding sceptres at times wearing a calm look and at others an almost menacing one standing tall amid open, green fields bring me joy. When I see them I know we ve left the city. Ayyanar, for the uninitiated, is a Tamil guardian deity who, it is believed, protects the village land. So the border of every rural area or oor ellai is marked by the presence of an Ayyanar statue beside a terracotta horse or an elephant. A popular 90s Tamil TV series directed by Naga Vidathu Karuppu was based on the cult of Karuppan Sami, whom Louis Dumont in A Structural Definition of a Folk Deity of Tamil Nad: Ayynar, the Lord published in 1972, describes thus: Ayyanar and Karuppan are as master and servant Ayyanar, Karuppan, Muneeswaran are all called grama devatas or village deities.

But it wasn t until recently that I learned I didn t really have to go too far from Chennai to spot these beautiful, majestic statues, which are also works of great

2 But it wasn t until recently that I learned I didn t really have to go too far from Chennai to spot these beautiful, majestic statues, which are also works of great craftsmanship. There are many, right here, in the city reminding us of our roots, even as the British built around them, to bring together several hamlets and villages to create this Madras.

Image Credits: sam.aminus3.com The first such statue I spotted was in the heart of the city. Right behind the bustling Anna Salai (near Poompuhar showroom).

3 Image Credits: sam.aminus3.com The first such statue I spotted was in the heart of the city. Right behind the bustling Anna Salai (near Poompuhar showroom). Standing guard near the Pachaiamman Temple in Perumal Street is Muneeswaran. The sthala puranam of the temple tells us that it is over 500 years old. The imposing white structure is nearly ten feet tall. It is believed that when Pachaiamman was performing a puja, a demon in the nearby forest was causing hindrance. To stop him Shiva and Vishnu took the form of Vamuni and Semmuni and destroyed him. In front of the temple is a statue in plaster, of Vazh Muni. During important days people pray to this Muni before praying to the Amman.

My next stop was the authentic large Ayyanar temple complex in DakshinaChitra. The museum s website explains how the temple was built in accordance to ritualistic rules.

4 My next stop was the authentic large Ayyanar temple complex in DakshinaChitra. The museum s website explains how the temple was built in accordance to ritualistic rules. The Ayyanar shrine at DakshinaChitra was constructed by Muthuswamy Kolalar, the priest of the Ayyanar shrine in Melkalpoondi, in South Arcot district. To prepare for the shrine, the neem tree, itchli tree, peepul tree, banyan tree and vembu maram, were planted at the site, in accordance with the priest s instructions. Back in Melkapoondi, the priest did a puja (with beads and bones) to ascertain whether the god was willing for another

5 shrine to be built. He was. Then the priest came to Madras to see if the DakshinaChitra site suited Ayyanar. It did. On July 31, 1992, after the shrine had been built and a week after the priest had arrived with one helper, work began on the terracotta figures. The elephant and the two large horses were prepared by mixing clay with straw, left to dry and then fired on site in a kiln of brick and mud, built around it. Thus was born a real temple, inside a heritage village that sought to recreate the streets of yore. Image Credits: sam.aminus3.com If you ve ever owned a vehicle in Chennai, chances are you ve already visited this next temple. The Bodyguard Muneeswaran near the Central railway station sees mile long queues ahead of Ayudha Puja during Navarati. It is believed that a puja performed in this temple (for the vehicle) will protect the owner/driver and the vehicle from accidents. The temple was located inside what was once the Governor s bodyguards camp and hence the name. It is not too far away from the Bodyguard

Mosque. The temple s history goes like this: back in 1919, a few people working in this area brought the statue of Muneeswaran with them and planted it under a tree here to worship.

6 Mosque. The temple s history goes like this: back in 1919, a few people working in this area brought the statue of Muneeswaran with them and planted it under a tree here to worship. A British officer objected to its presence there and ended up in a bloody accident, the same evening. From then on, it has been believed that praying to this Muneeswaran will help prevent accidents. Image Credits: commons.wikimedia.org Tucked away in old localities that have taken on new names are several such Ayyanar and Muneeswaran temples in Chennai, reminding us of our pastoral past. For a purely educational (and awe-inspiring) experience a visit to the bronze gallery at the museum in Egmore is a must. The exhibit features several stunning statues including one of

7 the Ayyanar sitting atop an elephant, bejewelled, dating back to several centuries.

SOUTH INDIA TN AP KARNATAKA KERALA PONDI TOUR - 19 DAYS TOUR TAMILNADU / ANDRAPRADESH / KARNATAKA / KERALA / PONDICHERRY

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