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1 Ensign/TenEssentials PublishedinTraveler stales/talestogono.16,june2015,josephineensign, cking_the_ten_essentials FossickingtheTenEssentials (Shecamehomewithasmoothroundstone assmallasaworldandaslargeasalone ~eecummings Fossicking:AnAustralianandNewZealandtermfor rummaging and prospecting, andspecificallyfor pickingovertheabandonedworkings (ofgold,preciousstones, andfossils. TheTenEssentials:Atermcoinedinthe1930sbyTheMountaineersClubinSeattle foralistofnecessaryequipmenttotakeonhikes.updatedin2003tothefunctional systemsapproachusedastheheadingsinthisessay. 1.Navigation. UsingGoogleEarthinsteadofacompassorcelestialnavigation,mycurrentlocation is43.4degreessouthand170.18degreeseast.highnoon.franzjosephglacier,at thefootofsnow[cappedaoraki/mt.cook,southisland,newzealand.i msittingat thebottomofahugerockandiceslideattheterminalfaceoftheglacierwhereits meltwatersrunintothewaihoriver. 1

2 Ensign/TenEssentials Thesunisoutandthere snobreezeinthisdeepcanyondugbytheglacier. It sjanuary2014,highsummerhereinthelandofthesoutherncross,soit swarm enoughtotakeoffmyjacket.thereseemtobenobugs nobitingflies no mosquitoes andnobirdstobeseenorheard.featherywaterfallsarecascading downthousandsoffeetfromthesheercliffssurroundingthecanyon.thesmellis elemental,metallic.allsurfacesmybodytouchesaregritty,coveredwiththefine glacialflourthatturnstheriverwaterstomilk,thatturnsmyskintoalabaster,that cruncheslightlybetweenmyteeth,tastingofbitteriron. Therocksatmyfeetarenewlyfractured,jagged,splitopenquartzcrystalsof dazzlingwhiteandpalegreen.ipickoneupandgazeintoitlikeacrystalball, consideringitshistory consideringmyhistory andconsideringhowitiswe cametomeethereatthefootofanancientglacier.thenibecomeawareofthe soundofrocksskitteringdownfromthetopofthepilebehindme.iwillmyselfto stay,butiturnsoicankeepaneyeontherocks.i mawareofthefolly,knowingi couldneverrunfastenoughtoescapebeingburiedwhentherockandicepile finallygivesway.i monthesupposedlysafesideoftheyellowropebarrierputup bynowabsentparkrangers.asthesunheatsthevalleyandtherocksbegintofall moresteadily,idecidetowalkbackoutofthecanyon. IretreatfromtherockpilebecauseI mleadingagroupoffourteenyoung womencollegestudentsfromseattleonastudyabroadprogram.i mresponsible fortheirhealthandsafetyforthethreemonthswe retouringnewzealand.ilead themawayfromtheglacier,backintotheprimevaltemperaterainforestoftowering 2

3 Ensign/TenEssentials treefernsandvines.thesteadydinofcicadasandtheoccasionaltremulanttrillsof bellbirdsandtuienvelopus. Whenwe vereturnedtotheforestpath,itellthestudentsi llmeetthemback atthevaninafewminutes.iduckdownadeserted,quietsidepathforafew momentsofpeace awayfromthestudents rawenthusiasm,raucoussinging,and selfie[picture[takinginfrontofeveryscenicview includingtherockpileofthe retreatingglacier.asi vedriventhemaroundthesouthislandinamini[van,some havetakentoyellingoutthevanwindows Heycows! or Heysheep! toscarethe herdsandthenlaughhysterically.thosearethebiologymajors,afactifindironic.i wasabiologymajorthirtyoddyearsago.wasieverthatyoung? OnthisstudyabroadprogramI mostensiblyteachingcommunityand environmentalhealth,butwhatireallywanttoteachisthevalueoftravelascritical self[discovery.notthenavel[gazing,batheticsortofself[discovery,butratherthe sortthatleadstogreaterknowledgeofandtoleranceforuncomfortableaspectsof ourselvesandofpeopleweviewas different fromus.iwanttoexposethestudents tothedeepsatisfactionofgettingpastbeingpicture[takingtourists,instead, becomingtravelers,perhapsevenpilgrimswalkingtowardsthefarhorizontoarrive home. Itisn tworkingoutwell.sofar,halfwayintoourtrip,it smorelikeacase studyofhownottoleadastudyabroadprogram.we retravelingaroundsomuchit feelslikewe reneverhere,innewzealand.stayingintendifferentcitiesand villagesinasmanyweeks,passingthroughandtickingoffthehave[done[have[been[ therebragginglistofphoto[ops,sky[diving,andbungy[jumping:ifeelmorelikean 3

4 Ensign/TenEssentials adventuretourguide(andanemergencyroomnursethanateacher.it snot helpingthatwe restayinginyouthhostelsfullofinternationalbackpackingnomads whoproudlyproclaimtheyhave donefranzjoseph, theyhave donemilford Sound, theyhave donerotorua, asiftheseareallcolonialconquests placesand nativesandexperiencestobepossessedandbraggedabout.butisignedontothis programlateandhadlittlehandinitsdesign,soi mtryingtomakethebestofit. Aswedriveandtourandwander,Iaskmyself:Dowediscovermoreabout ourselvesthroughmovementorthroughrootednesstooneplaceovertime? If,asLucyR.LippardcontendsinherbookTheLureoftheLand, space ispassing throughcoordinatesand place ispausingtomakemeaningofthespace,doesit followthatspaceistotourismasplaceistotravel?andifso,whatisessentialfor theworkoftransformingspaceintoplace,tourismintotruetravel,intopilgrimage? Iremembermyowntravelsoutsidemypassportzone outsidemycomfort zone.itrytorememberlessonsilearnedthroughmytravels,lessonsthatcan perhapsinformmyteachingherewiththesecowandsheepscaringyoungwomen. 2.SunProtection. Iwasthirty[twoyearsoldandwasinBangkok,ThailandaspartoftheU.S.Women s SwanBoatTeamforaninternationalcompetition.Ourteampracticedforayearina flat,stabledragonboatonthewidepotomacriverinwashington,dc.incontrast, swanboatsaregracefulthree[tonteakround[bottomboats.whenourteamentered ourfirstrealswanboattopracticeonthechaophyrayariverinbangkok,we almosttippedover.itwastheendoftherainyseasonwiththeriveraboveflood 4

5 Ensign/TenEssentials stage.inamongstthewaterhyacinths,abloateddeadpigfloatedbybellyup.we quicklyregainedourcollectivebalance.inthefinalrace,wecameinsecond,barely beatenbyaruggedteamofpetitethaifemalefarmerswhowereusedtoswan boats,flooding,anddeadpigs.theirstrengthcamefromsurvival,notsport,soiwas gladtheywon. IstayedinBangkokforseveralweeksafterthecompetitionendedinorderto dosomeresearchformydissertationonhealthissuesofstreetchildren.itwasthe firsttimei deverbeencompletelyonmyowninaforeigncountry.asiwalkedthe streetstoobservethechildren,whiletryingtoavoidsunburnandheatexhaustion,i adoptedthelocalcustom(forthaifemalesofcarryinganumbrellatowardoffthe intensesun.isoondiscoveredthehiddenbenefitsofusinganumbrella:itgavemea protectivebubblewithinwhichtonegotiatethecrushandnoiseandheatofthe megacity. 3.Insulation. Mywholebodywassore.TheweekbeforemythirtiethbirthdayIhadcompetedin thechesapeakebaybridgerace:nearlyfivemilesofcold,fastmovingwater betweenannapolis,marylandandtheeasternshoreofvirginia.post[divorce,iwas copingwithlifebybastingmybraincellswithendorphins:running,rowing,and swimmingeveryday butmostlyswimming atleasttwo,sometimesthreeorfour mileseachdayinthedowntownymca.nomatterhowmuchishoweredand sprayedmyselfwithperfume,ismelledofchlorine.thereweretimesinthepool 5

6 Ensign/TenEssentials wheni dfeelmyselfslowlydissolvingintothewater,pulleddownintothedarkblue depths.irelaxedintoitandfeltiwasbreathingthroughgills. Thiswasmyfirstopenwatercompetition.Iwaspushingmyselftotry somethingiwasafraidof:swimmingintheforeignterritoryofdeepwater.ihad twelvepercentbodyfatandhadcutmyhairintoasleekbobtomakeiteasierto swim.forthebaybridgeraceiworeaneoprenevestpartialwetsuitgiventomeby myymcaswimcoach.thiswasmyfirstopenwaterswim.iknewthereweremale triathleteswhodidtheseraces Ididlapswiththeminthepoolandenjoyedout[ pacingthem butiwasn tpreparedforhowaggressivelytheystartedtherace. FromtheshoreIplungedintotheicygreywaterandwasimmediatelypushed underbymenclawingtheirwayoverme.isputtered,swallowedbaywater,then musclememorytookoverandifellintothefamiliarrhythmoffreestyle. Halfwaythroughtheracemyhandsandfeetwentnumb.Thenmyarmsand legswentnumb.thenmyfacebegantogonumb.wheniturnedmyheadtotheside forabreath,throughfoggygogglesisawtheloomingconcretepillarsofthebridge andtheblackracenumberwrittenonmyleftbicep.ihallucinatedthatthebridge wasawarshipandthattheblacknumberonmyarmwasanaziconcentration campnumber aconcentrationcampfromwhichiwasescaping.irealizedihad hypothermiaandshouldgrabontoanorangesafetykayakfloatingnearby.instead,i kickedharderandgotthroughthechurningcenterchanneltowarmerwater.with thewarmthibecamelucidandfinishedtherace.thewetsuitvestfromthebay Bridgeswimrubbedadeepabrasiononmyrightshoulderblade;likeabrown birthmark,it sascaricarrystill. 6

7 Ensign/TenEssentials 4.Illumination. MyownjunioryearstudyabroadprogramwaswithSEASemester,outofWoods HoleNationalOceanographicInstituteonCapeCod,Massachusetts.SeaSemesteris atwelve[weekintensivecourseonsailingandoceanography.ihadjustturned nineteen.wesailedona125 TopsailSchoonerresearchvesseltoNovaScotia, Labrador,andNewfoundland.Wetooknauticalscience,marinescience,andan Englishliteraturecourseontheloreofthesea.Ilovednightwatchdutyonthe bowsprit,andwasmesmerizedbytheglitteringsprayfromthephosphorescent algae.iwouldleanoutoverthebowspritandfeelmyselfdivingintothatflowing luminescence.itwasakindofcleansing,simultaneouslyadeeprelaxationand exhilarationwiththewhitenoiseofthewhooshingbowwaves,thecoldsprayonmy face,thebrinysea[smell,andtheshimmeringlights.obviously,fromanautical safetyperspective,iwasworthlessonbowwatchatnight. NearNewfoundlandwesailedthroughhugedisplaysofNorthernLightsand followedthemigratorypathsofbluewhales.iwasatthehelmthedayourmarine biologyprofessorspotteda70 bluewhaleoffourportbow. Preparetocome about!followthatwhale! thecaptainyelled.asiturnedtheship swheel,ifeltlike yellingback, CallmeIshmael! 5.FirstAid. 7

8 Ensign/TenEssentials ThemostintensepainIhaveeverfeltwaswhenIwassixteen,atnight,inasmall churchwithoutelectricityorrunningwater,inthemountainsofoaxaca,mexico.it wasmyfirstrealbrushwithdeath. Iwaswithayouthgroupdoingservice[learningprojectsinruralMexico.We weresleepingonthefloorofthechurchwhenatinybutpotentscorpionstungme onmyfinger.iwokeupscreaming.someoneturnedonaflashlighttoseethe scorpionscuttlingaway.wewereinasmallmountainvillagethathadnodoctoror clinic.theprimitivedirtroadswereimpassableinrain.ithadbeenrainingforthe pastseveralweeksandhadjustbeguntoclear.thenurseonourtripgavemeashot ofadrenalineandhadmeliedownoutsideonawoodenbench,myheadinherlap. TheBrazilianpreacherandleaderofourtripplacedhishandsonmyheadand startedprayinginportuguese.irememberlookingupthroughthetreecanopyat thebrightstarsandthinkingitmustbeseriousifhewasprayingoverme.itfeltlike hoursthatiheldmythrobbing,swellinghand,whilelookingupatthedazzlingstars, beforeirealizediwasn tgoingtodieonanoaxacanmountaintop,thousandsof milesawayfrommyhomeandfamily. 6.Fire OnthatsametriptoMexico,ourgroupdidsomesight[seeing,includingdrivingup theprimitivedirtroadtothetopofnevadadetoluca,anoldvolcanostandingat 15,354feet.Itwasn tatouristdestinationsincetourbusescouldn tmakeitupthe road.wewerealoneatthetop,walkingthedesolate,barerockrimofthecrater, 8

9 Ensign/TenEssentials lookingdownintothecalderathroughafinefreezingmisttothetwocraterlakesat thebottom. Onourwaybackdownthemountainwesawahorse[drawncartthathad beenpiledwithfirewood,upended,thelogspartiallyblockingtherutteddirtroad. Thehorsehadbrokenhisleg.Aswedroveby,thecartdriverpulledoutapistoland shotthehorseinthehead.darkredbloodranovertheroadasthehorseconvulsed andthenwentstill.thestarkviolenceoftheshootingmingledwiththedesolationof thecalderaandthestingofthescorpion,tobecomethehauntingessenceofmexico. 7.RepairQkit MylittleredSwissArmyknifeaccompaniesmeonallmytravels.I vehaditsincei wasincollegeonmystudyabroadprogram.it sasmallwomen sversionofabasic knife:knifeblade,sharpscissors,metalnailfile,tinytweezers(thatworkwellfor pluckingeyebrowhairs,aswellasforremovingsplinters,andalittlemetalpenfor emergencywriting.thecompanythatmakesthekniveshasreplacedthepenwitha nailcleaner,afactifindretrogressiveanddepressing. 8.Nutrition. Iatesmokedsalmoneverydayonmymonth[longsolotripacrossIreland.Ispent halfmytimeonthedinglepeninsulaonthewestcoast.iwasinmyearlyforties,on aquesttoreplacethedreamofhavinganotherbaby,withdreamsicould reasonablypursue.thefishfedthosedreams. 9

10 Ensign/TenEssentials Inindigenousculturesreliantonsalmon likethepacificnorthwest Indians thesalmonisasymbolofimmortality,ofourlivescontinuing.thisis,after all,whatwewishforthroughhavingchildren,throughwriting,throughteaching, throughanycreativeendeavor.wewantthemtoliveon,tocarrypiecesofourselves backupstreamintothefuture. TheWestCoastofIrelandisoneofthefewplacesonearthwherewhenI arrivedforthefirsttime,ifeltasifihadalwaysbeenthere.itfeltuncannilyfamiliar, likehome. 9.Hydration. Iwasforty[three,nearingtheendofasix[monthteachingandresearchstintin NorthernThailand,andhaddecidedtomakethesomewhatyuppifiedpilgrimageto AngkorWatbeforegoinghome.SoIcouldsayIhad done AngkorWat?Standingin theshadowsofthetempleatsunset,touchingthecarvedstonemurals,ifeltthe poweroftimeandofbeauty andofthirst.ifeltdizzyasthelastofmysweatdried onmyskin.iplacedasmallpebblefromangkorinmymouthtoslakemythirst. 10.EmergencyShelter. It smid[february2014andi mat43.53degreessouth,172.62degreeseast,inthe earthquakedisasterredzoneinthecentralbusinessdistrict,christchurch,new Zealand.TheearthquakeschangedthecoordinatesofChristchurch,soIwonderif thesearestillaccurate. 10

11 Ensign/TenEssentials Christchurchislistedas#2intheJanuary10,2014NewYorkTimes interactivearticle 52PlacestoGoin2014. ItcomesinjustafterCapeTown,South Africa,whichtheysayis Aplacetomeditateonfreedomandthecreativelifethat followed. ForChristchurchtheystate, witnessacityintransformation and see therebirthofaquake[ravagedcity. TheynotethatChristchurchisfinallyableto welcometourists,threeyearsafterthelast,mostdevastatingearthquakein2011. Disastertourism,traumatourism,darktourism,thanotourism:visiting traumascapes,placestransformedbytragedy.ihadn trealizedthatiswhatwe re doing,untilwe rehere,amidstthestill[freshdevastation. I msittinginthetemporarystructureofpalletpark,anopen[airperformance areaandcafébuiltofblue[paintedwoodpallets.thegroundaroundmeislittered withconcreterubble,glassshards,brokenbitsofbrick,andthefineasbestos[laden dustfromongoingdemolitionoftheremainingbrokenbuildings.thedustissettling inthegingerbeeri mdrinking.ipickupapieceofthicksafetyglassfroma demolishedshop swindow.iconsiderkeepingit,butthenithrowitaway.idon t wantthatsortofmacabremementoweighingmedown. NearbyistheTemporaryCathedralbuiltofcardboard,designedbythe Japanese emergencyarchitect ShigeruBanwhospecializesinpost[disaster buildingdesign.throughouttheredzone,whereverthereisn tanemptylotora transientstructure,ironstrutsandshippingcontainerspropupruinsofonce majesticoldstonebuildings.orangesafetyconesandwobblywirefencingmark boundariesforwhereit ssafetowalk.thisisnoplacefortourists,butherethey are hereweare.areddouble[decker RedZone earthquaketourbuslumbersby. 11

12 Ensign/TenEssentials IntheAutomobileAssociationofNewZealandtravelmagazineI mreading,inotice somethingodd.there safull[pageadforachristchurchjewelrycompany specializingincharmsforbracelets.theyshowphotosof weehouse[charm mementosoftheearthquakes. Thecharmhouseshavecaved[inroofsandbroken chimneys.theycomeinsilverandgold. Whatissacredandwhatisprofane?Dotheboundarieschangeafterthe earthcracksopenandtriestoswallowanentirecity? InChristchurchIbeginhavingdreamsofemergencyoxygenmasksdropping fromthebluesky.inmydreamiforgettoputonmyownoxygenmaskbefore helpingmystudents.ipassoutandawakeninacoldsweat.thedisasterdreams followmeoverthesouthernalpstothewestcoastofthesouthisland,intothe smallvillageofhokitika,aformergold[miningtownnowturnedmostlyghosttown. Intouristbrochurestheypromotefossickinginstreamsnearbywhereyoucanpan forgold.theirbeachesarethemainsourceofnewzealandpounamu jade.itake longwalksonthewind[swept,desolatebeachesalongthetasmansea.ifindso muchjadethatican tcarryitall.it slikestumblingintosmog slairladenwith mountainsofjewels.icatchmyselfandistepawayfrommydesiretocollectthem all.iwaitforthespiritsoftheplacetogivemeoneperfectstone. Andtheydo.AroguewavefromthewildTasmanSeanearlysweepsme away.asiregainmyfooting,astonerollsovermyfoot.ireachdownandgrabit beforetheretreatingwavesucksitback.thestoneiswobblyegg[shapedand perfectlysea[smoothed,withswirlsofjaderangingfrompalegreentoalmostblack. 12

13 Ensign/TenEssentials Itsoundsodd,butI vetakentoholdingthisrockatnighttofallasleep,likea securityblanket.whoeverheardofasecuritystone?buti minmaori[landwhere pounamuisaspiritstone.perhapstheancestorsofthemaorifellasleepwithstones intheirhands.irecognizethedangerofgoingnative,offallingintothewhite person stropeofromanticizingthenoblesavage,thepeopleoftheland.butthere s somethingdislocating,otherworldlypullingmein. TheAmericananthropologistKeithBasso,inhisbookWisdomSitsinPlaces, quotesoneofhisapacheinformantsassaying, Wisdomsitsinplaces.It slike waterthatneverdriesup.youalsoneedtodrinkfromplaces. Bassodescribeshow theapacheembodyamoralrealityofaplace,aninteriorlandscapethatinfluences theirsenseofplace,theirsenseofself. Youhavetodrinkfromplaces.Drink,notsip,notsimplysuckonatinypiece toslakeyourthirst.istravelalwaysjustsipping?oraretherepiecesoftravelthat youcanfossick andsavor longafteryou rehome? March degreesSouth,176.25degreesEast,Rotorua,NorthIsland,New Zealand. Mystudentsarenolongeryellingatcowsandsheep albeitatmyprompting.they arestilltakingselfie[photosandgigglinghysterically,singingpopularlovesongsat thetopoftheirvoices,planningtheirnextbungy[jumpsandskydivingadventures. ButourtimeinChristchurchshookthemup,soberedthem,depressedthemeven. Theyhavetheirownversionsofdisasternightmares.AndhauntingHokitikahas giventhemtimesofsolitude,aplacetoconsiderweightiermattersthansimply 13

14 Ensign/TenEssentials sightseeingorthrillseeking.forsome,ithasreturnedthemtotheirspiritualroots; forall,ithasreturnedthemtothepoweroffamily,ofcommunity,ofhome. Iknowthesethingsbecausetheywriteaboutthemintheirweeklyreflective essaysiassign.perhapssomestudentsarewritingwhattheyknowiwanttohear, butiobservethemhavingquietertimesspinningofffromthegrouptobealone. Whattheywritebecomesmorenuancedandrichlylayered.Theywriteabouthow it seasiertokeepbusydoingexcitingthings,meetingdifferentpeople,goingtonew places,thataredistractionsfromsittingwiththeirthoughtsanduncomfortable feelings.theywriteabouthavingthetimeanddistancenecessarytobeginto unpackickybaggagetheycarriedherefromhome.theywriteabouthowwonderful itiswhenthey reabletosharetheiruncomfortablefeelingswithfriendsorfamily orclassmatesorevenwithme,andthenrealizetheyaren todd,orcrazy,oralone. Thisseemssobasic,elemental.ButIremember:Iwasoncethatyoung. Ifwisdomsitsinplaces,perhapsitfollowsthatyouhavetosit(still,quiet, aloneinaplacelongenoughtobeabletoreceivethatwisdom.andperhaps,in turn,rootednessisenrichedbymovementandbymemoriesoftravel. April degreesNorth,122.33degreesWest.Seattle,Washington,USA. Iremembertheexhilarationofmovementandnoveltyandreinventionofselfin differentplacesandwithdifferentpeoplewhoknownothingofyourpast.i remembertheshockandpathosofbeingexposedtoviolence.irememberthe strengthofthetravelscarsicarry.irememberhowuncannyitistofindnewplaces thatsomehowhavealwaysbeenhome.irememberthedeeperknowledgeofaplace 14

15 Ensign/TenEssentials thatcanonlycomethroughintrospectionandsolitude,throughconnectiontothe landanditspeople. Besidemehereonmydesksitsmysea[smoothed,layeredjadepebbleof ponamu.thepebble andapoemfragmentfromt.s.eliot helpednavigateme home:ihavearrivedwhereistarted,knowingitforthefirsttime. 15

... Daily Devotions. Devotions August 9-15, 2015 Pamela Long Grace Lutheran Church, South Range, MI. Sunday, August 9, 2015

... Daily Devotions. Devotions August 9-15, 2015 Pamela Long Grace Lutheran Church, South Range, MI. Sunday, August 9, 2015 .... Daily Devotions Sunday, August 9, 2015 Devotions August 9-15, 2015 Pamela Long Grace Lutheran Church, South Range, MI Text:Ephesians4:22024 Youweretaughttoputawayyourformerwayoflife,youroldself,corruptanddeludedby