Detailed description. India: Ladakh. Welcome. Day to Day schedule. Enter ''Little Tibet''! Trip code: Group size: Number of days: SIB

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1 India: Ladakh Enter ''Little Tibet''! Trip code: Group size: Number of days: SIB Detailed description Welcome The rugged highlands of Ladakh are among the most remote places on our planet and can only be reached in summer by a spectacular tour of the Indian Himalayas. The deserted moonscape makes an indelible impression on visitors. Culturally, you're in Tibet, the serene Buddhist monasteries testify to this. You can opt for a breathtaking hike and visit Dharamsala, the present seat of the Dalai Lama. Aspects of Sikhism you will find in the Golden Temple of Amritsar, Hinduism in Delhi and you will experience the charm of Manali where you can take leisurely walks in the woods. Day to Day schedule Below is a summary of the day-to-day description. Transport Route Overnight stay 1 Delhi Delhi 2 Delhi Delhi 3 Train Delhi - Amritsar Amritsar 4 Bus Amritsar - Dharamsala Dharamsala 5 Dharamsala Dharamsala 6 Bus Dharamsala - Manali Manali 7 Manali Manali 8 Bus Manali - Keylong Keylong 9 Keylong Keylong 10 Bus Keylong - Sarchu Sarchu 11 Bus Sarchu - Leh Leh 12 Leh Leh 13 Leh Leh 14 Walk Leh - Likir - Yangtang (optional trekking) Yangtang

2 15 Walk Yangtang - Hemis Shukpachu (optional trekking) Hemis Shukpachu 16 Walk Hemis Shukpachu - Themisgam - Alchi (optional trekking) Alchi 17 Bus Alchi - Leh Leh 18 Leh Leh 19 Leh Leh Leh - Delhi Delhi 21 Delhi Delhi 22 Delhi End of tour 20 Plane Day to Day description Day 1: Delhi Welcome to India! Your tour starts in Delhi, where you can use your hotel room from check in time (12.00 hrs at noon) on day 1. Most of your travel companions will arrive in the late evening of day 1 or early morning of day 2, the exact time will be depending on their flight schedule. Day 2: Delhi Free day In Delhi. In this chaotic city there is much to experience and the contrast between the old and new areas is enormous. The old part is an anthill of narrow streets, temples and mosques including the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, the largest and most beautiful mosque in the country. The new section is a vast city stuffed with long, wide, straight streets, parks and pavilions. All in all there is plenty to see but if you do not have enough time to do everything then do not worry as you will return here at the end of your trip. Day 3: Delhi - Amritsar Board an early morning train µswarna Shatabdi to Amritsar. The scheduled departure of the train is 7.20 hours. The trip takes about six hours. You arrive at Amritsar at Later visit the main attraction of Amritsar, the Golden Temple of the Sikhs. This famous temple is situated in the heart of the old town. The actual sanctuary of the temple is the Har Mandir which has a golden dome, shaped like an inverted lotus flower. The Golden Temple is an oasis of peace and a wonderful place to see and to meet the friendly Sikhs. Visitors to the Golden Temple must remove their shoes to get their feet washed and cover their heads before entering. Besides the Golden Temple, there are a number of attractions in the old town of Amritsar, with a small gold temple, a mosque and many markets. Take a trip to Attari (30 kms outside Amritsar), and witness the elaborate border ceremony between India and Pakistan.

3 Day 4: Amritsar - Dharamsala In the morning, drive to Dharamsala (200 kms/ 6 hrs drive), a sleepy town in the foothills of the Himalayas. It is a long winding ride alongside the (coniferous) trees, rice fields and near the village you will see some tea plantations. In Dharamsala, the Dalai Lama and his government sit, so the whole place exudes a Tibetan feel with its temples and monks dressed in red. It is sometimes possible to go to an audience with the Dalai Lama, thats if he's not traveling at least. You can visit the famous Tibetan monastery and the interesting Local markets of Mcleod Ganj and Bhagsu Nag Temple. You'll spend two nights in a hotel located in upper Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj, and the area where the Tibetans live. Day 5: Dharamsala Day at leisure. In the green area of Dharamsala there is much to discover. The forests and fields in the Himalayas lend themselves to a good walk. It is possible to walk from Dharamsala in one day into the mountains, up to the snowline and return again before darkness falls. Day 6: Dharamsala - Manali You go through the beautiful Kullu valley with green wooded hills and numerous waterfalls. The valley along the Beas River is also called the Valley of the Gods. There is a large forest area and Kullu is known for its apples, apricots, raisins and Kullu Shawls. After a slow acsent of around four hours (112 km) we arrive in Manali, situated at an altitude of 2050 meters. In the 70s and 80s, Manali in summer attracted many western hippies because of its mild climate during the hot Indian summers; they also harvest marijuana in this region. Still you can see these plants growing ornately on the roadsides. Today it is the rich Indian families and honeymooners who come to enjoy the wooded area and its many restaurants. Day 7: Manali Day at leisure in Manali. There are some great attractions in Manali, like the wooden Dhungri Temple (built in 1553), a four-story building in the woods (Pagoda Architecture), and Gadhan Thekchokling monastery, built by Tibetan refugees in the sixties. Old Manali is an area with old houses and orchards where you can take a pleasant walk. Vashisht near Manali is a charming village on a hillside with hot sulpher water springs, where you can take a public bath. Day 8: Manali - Keylong Through a spectacular mountain road you travel through the Himalayas towards Leh. The road, which is constantly in a state of decomposition, you will find to be literally breath-taking. The first part of the road, rises through green forests and apple orchards, through a lot of hairpin bends to get to the first pass, the Rohtang Pass (3978 m), where many Indian day trippers from Manali come themselves to perpetuate, dressed in rented fur coats and boots, sitting on a sturdy mountain pony or a yak. The total travelling time can vary depending on the road condition and traffic. The trip continues to Keylong, the only town of importance here. The area is becoming less green, the trees disappear and the population density decreases. Slowly you rise to Jispa where you overnight at 3400 meters in a hotel on the Bhaga River. If you do not arrive too late in Jispa, it's nice to go hiking in the area.

4 Day 9: Keylong Today you are free to explore further. Take a walk around the village or perhaps a half day hike to Shashur Monastery (Shashur means Blue Pines). This 17th century monastery has a picturesque location in Keylong, Lahaul Spiti. You will see large Thangka paintings, some of them over fifteen feet in length and wall paintings depicting all the 84 siddhas of Buddhism. Shanshur is around 2 Kms from Keylong Market and will take between 1 ½ and 2 hours (one way: uphill). After arriving at the monastery you can relax there enjoying the beautiful view of the valley below. Later you can hike back to the local village market and enjoy an evening at leisure. Day 10: Keylong - Sarchu On the second day of travel through the Himalayas ride through the valley of Lahaul and Spiti. Again, it is a path with beautiful views, including the Baralacha La (4890 m). The name means something like Crossroads because it joins two different valleys together. You arrive after a long drive in the tented camp at Sarchu (4250 m), still in the state of Himachal Pradesh. Day 11: Sarchu - Leh At the start of the journey you quickly ascend a road with 21 hairpin bends giving a fantastic view of the moon-like landscape. You pass the More Plains, an area where sometimes Khampa nomads hang with their herds. The road leads you to Tanglang La (5328 m) and Lachulang La (5060 m) and past the monasteries of Shey and Thikse (they can be visited from Leh). Later you reach Leh where you have three nights to visit magnificent palaces and temples of "small Lhasa" and the monasteries and palaces in the vicinity. The broad main street recalls the days when hundreds of camels, yaks and horses had to find a place in the crowded bazaar. Leh is the only town in the valley with a market and the whole valley of Ladakh comes together to buy and sell. At night there are many restaurants where you eat by candlelight (failing electrics dictate!). Day 12: Leh You are free to explore Leh. The town of Leh is dominated by the former royal palace, Leh Palace. Built in the style of Potala Palace in Lhasa, but smaller. The building dates from the 17th century and has nine floors. It is in poor condition, but has a beautiful location above the city. At the foot of the palace are some temples and gompas (monasteries). High above the palace is the viewpoint of Namgyal Gompa and a fort (Tsemo Castle) which is accessible along a goat trail. A visit to the gompa in and around Leh is very special because of the Buddhist statues and manuscripts, but perhaps even more so because of the intense atmosphere that often hangs.

5 Day 13: Leh Free day. There are many small gompas surrounding Leh which are interesting to visit, not only because of their art treasures but also because of the friendly Lamas (Monks). You will have to choose which gompas to see but a nice combination is: Shey Gompa, Thikse Gompa, Hemi Gompa and Matho (all southeast of Leh). To the east of Leh, Shey Gompa is the former summer palace, with a 12 meter high Buddha statue of Shakyamuni, made of copper with gold leaf. Thikse Gompa is a little further and situated on a beautiful hill. This restored monastery belongs to the Gelukpa order and there are temples and chortens everywhere. From the roof of the monastery there is a beautiful view. Hemis Gompa lies across the Indus River in a lovely valley with babbling brooks. It is known for the largest thangka in Ladakh, which is only displayed once every 12 years! The monastery is also famous for its mask dance festival. Whenever you are entering a temple, you have to remove your shoes. Day 14: Leh - Likir - Yangtang (optional trekking) For those of you that have chosen to (specify when booking) you will start your trek through the rugged mountains of Ladakh (The rest will have free time in Leh). You can store the luggage you won t be taking, back at the hotel. In the morning, you drive to Likir (3500 m). Here are the vans, horses and/or donkeys ready to transport the luggage. You have the option to view the beautiful monastery of Likir. From there you follow our guide on foot over rocky goat paths. Soon you leave the green area behind you and enter an arid moonscape when you cross the Pobe La (La = Pass) at 3550 m. The green trees and fields of the village Sumdo (3470 m) soon come into view. You cross a wooden bridge over the river Saspol Tokpo and climb to the next pass at 3650 meters, the Charat La. From there it is about 35 minutes to walk to the first camp in Yangtang, a picturesque, adobe village (3600 m). In the evening our cook prepares a hearty local meal by the campfire. Likir/Likir Gompa to Yangtang is approximately 5 hrs. Day 15: Yangtang - Hemis Shukpachu (optional trekking) In the morning you start the trek to Hemis Shukpachu (2-3 hours). From Yangtang descend down to cross the river at Wuleh Tokpo and then walk up to the next pass of 3750 meters, the Sarmanchan La. From the pass you can already see the village Shukpachu Hemis (3600 m). The camp is situated along the fast flowing river with cold water and surrounded by mountains. The village of Hemis Shukpachu and its surroundings are very picturesque, and you can explore this beautiful region of your own. There is a small monastery and a couple of small shops. There is another alternate route from Yangtang to Hemis Shukpachu via Rizdong Monastery which takes around 7 to 8 hours. The remote monastery of the Rizdong Gelukpa order is known for its strict regime. The monks here have only the clothes they wear and all the food is prepared in the monastery kitchen.

6 Day 16: Hemis Shukpachu - Themisgam - Alchi (optional trekking) This morning we start trekking towards Themisgam, totaling about 3 or 4 hours. First you slowly cross a small pass (3710 m) and then zigzag down overlooking the valley with mountains in different pastel colours - a feast for the eyes. Later we get to zigzag steeply up to the next pass of 3750 meters, the Lago La. Then comes the village of Ang before the end point of the trip, Themisgam (3200 m), located in the richest valley of Ladakh. Apricots, apples and nuts grow here in abundance. It is the largest and most prosperous village of the trek. After arriving in Themisgam we travel by bus for half an hour to Alchi, where we overnight. Alchi Gompa is the largest and most beautiful monastery in the valley with splendid paintings and carvings and with a total of five temples. Day 17: Alchi - Leh In the morning drive back to Leh. It takes only two hours to drive back to Leh (70 km), where you have three nights at the same hotel where you previously left the remaining luggage. Day 18: Leh Free day. Time to look for the beautiful crafts of the Tibetans or maybe go for a rafting trip on the Indus River (depending on the water category). You can even just sit and relax on a rooftop restaurant or watch a traditional show near Leh Palace. You may also like to explore other monasteries. The Stok Palace (Stok Gompa) is located upstream from Leh and is now partly opened as a museum, especially recommended for its thangka exhibits. Taktok Gompa is an interesting little monastery, built around a cave. It is the only monastery of the Nyingmapa sect in Ladakh, the oldest Tibetan monastic order. Every year there is a beautiful festival at Taktok. The monastery belongs to the Kagyupa order (Red Hats). Phyang Gompa has a similar festival, but on a smaller scale. Also, make sure to see the ancient Spituk Gompa. Day 19: Leh For your final day in Leh visit the white Shanti Stupa, situated on a hill just outside the city. Shanti was built by a Japanese sect in 1983 and opened by the Dalai Lama. The view of Leh is very nice in the late afternoon light. Day 20: Leh - Delhi You'll board an early flight from Leh to Delhi, which is about 1 ¼ hours. The rest of the day you're free to spend in Delhi. You might want to look for souvenirs in the city markets. Chandi Chowk is the artery of the old town with many shops and a large market. It is a chaotic jumble of streets teeming with people, cattle and horse carriages, bicycles, rickshaws, cars, buses and anything that moves.

7 Day 21: Delhi Free day. Visit those sights that you didn t get round to at the start of this trip. We suggest the Qutab Minar, a minaret with five floors (each with a projecting balcony) of 72 meters high. The first three floors were built with red sandstone, the top two floors are marble and sandstone. At the foot of the tower is the first mosque built in India: the Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid. The mosque was built on the remains of a Hindu temple. The Lotus Temple is also well worth a visit. This modern building was so named because it has the shape of a giant lotus flower and it reminds us of the Opera House in Sydney. It is a temple of the Baha'i religious community, which believes that all world religions have to unite. Please bear in mind that your group will either leave very late tonight or early tomorrow morning. Day 22: Delhi Today is the end of your tour. You will need to vacate your room, usually by 12 noon. We wish you a comfortable journey home and are sure you will take with you some wonderful memories of Ladakh. Your personal my.shoestring page on our website is the perfect way to make contact with other travellers before and after your trip. You can read and create journals from trips and upload your photos onto the photo gallery. Visit my shoestring today. When booking your tour, please check to see whether you need any posttour nights, bearing in mind that accommodation for the night of the final day of the tour (day 22) is not included. Departures for festival trips: 2019: Hemis festival: 30th June; Phyang festival: 19th July; Taktok festival: 30th July Please note that itineraries of festivals trips are subject to change. Please check 'More info' and then 'Festivals' for more information. More info What's included: domestic flight Leh - Delhi; transportation in (mini) bus; train Delhi - Amritsar; overnight stays in hotels; overnight in tents at Sarchu with dinner and breakfast; English speaking tour leader; airport taxes; fuel tax; What's excluded: International flights;optional trek from Leh (request when confirming booking); other meals; optional excursions; all entrance fees; visa; tips; booking fee; airport transfers; travel insurance;

8 Attention Single room is not possible in Sarchu and during the optional trek Travel documents Travelling with the correct travel documentation is your own responsibility. Please ensure your passport is valid for a minimum of 6 months beyond the finish date of your trip. For India, a visa is required for many nationalities in order to gain entry. Please check this information in good time before your trip commences as this information is always subject to change. You can check this information through a site such as this one. To arrange your visa, you should either contact your nearest Indian embassy or use an agency such as CIBT. It is now also possible for nationals of a number of countries to apply online for their India visa, in advance of travel using the E-Visa facility. Please check the following website for further information and online visa application: Accommodation and transport

9 Transport During this tour we have the use of our own private bus, so we can stop at beautiful places in nature along the way. The bus does not have air conditioning. The train journey from Delhi to Amritsar (Swarna Shatabdi Express) and the domestic flight from Leh to Delhi are included. The transfers to and from the airport are not included. Travel distances Delhi airport to hotel: 30 km / 1 hour Delhi to Amritsar: departure 7.20 am / arrival pm (Swarna Shatabdi Express train) Amritsar to Dharamsala: 200 km / 6 hours Dharamsala to Manali: 235 km / 7 to 8 hours Manali to Keylong: 120 km / 6 hours Keylong to Sarchu: 90 km / 4 hours Sarchu to Leh: 251 km / 9 hours Leh to Alchi: 70 km / 2 hours Alchi to Leh: 70 km / 2 hours Leh to Delhi: 1010 km / 1 ¼ hour (domestic flight) NB: Just as with us, Indian trains and flights are not always on time. You also travel in an area where the infrastructure is far from optimal. Delays are certainly possible and the stated travel durations are only approximate. Some flexibility is greatly appreciated. Accommodation You'll stay in simple but comfortable hotels in 2-person rooms with private bathroom. During the optional trek in Ladakh you sleep in tents. This also applies to the night in Sarchu. Participants who book individually will share a room with another participant. We will of course try and pair travellers of the same sex together. If you would like a room for yourself on this trip it can be arranged, but there is a fee payable. During the optional trek and crossing through the Himalayas no single room is possible. During your trip, it is possible to participate in 'single' excursions offered locally by the tour leader. These excursions are optional. To allow you to plan a budget for your trip we have provided you with an idea of the cost of these excursions. The price can change due to currency fluctuations. The amounts are therefore only meant to give you an indication of the cost. Entrance fees will often change and therefore are excluded from the prices displayed (unless explicitly stated). We display the prices in Euros/GB Pounds/US Dollars. When you are in your destination, it is possible to pay for the excursions in local currency. Single excursions

10 Excursion Details Price Amritsar - Golden Temple, Jalianwala Bagh and Pakistan- Indian border Book at location During this combined excursion we visit the the Golden Temple and Jalianwala Bagh in the morning, and then in the evening witness the changing of the guard at the Pakistan-India Wagah border post. The world famous complex of the Golden Temple of Amritsar is located in the center. The actual shrine of the Sikh temples, the Hari Mandir, is surrounded by a pond called Amrit Sarovar, roughly translated, a "pool of nectar ', which gave the city its name. The temple has a golden dome in the shape of an inverted lotus flower. You'll visit the walled garden Jalianwala Bagh, an important point in the history of Amritsar and the pursuit of Indian independence. In 1919 a massacre took place in the park, where the British Indian army opened fire on a group of unarmed men, women and children. You'll see there a monument to the victims. The second part of the tour takes place in the evening, you visit the border post between India and Pakistan (28 km from Amritsar), where a lot of ceremonial display shows the changing of the guard and taking down of the flags. There is even a stand there to see it all from. Excursion Time (subject to change and in consultation with the tour leader): 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 pm - Visit to the Golden Temple and Jalianwala Bagh 6:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. hours - Visit to the Wagah border Included: transport, English speaking guide monuments Not included: Entrance fees, Camera fees and tip for driver 26 Delhi - City Tour Book at location During the city tour of Delhi we will visit the following: New Delhi: Humayun's Tomb, India Gate and Sikh Temple (Bangla Sahib) Old Delhi: Raj Ghat, Jama Mashid, Red Fort (photo stop) 14 Excursion Time (subject to change and in consultation with the tour leader): Excursion starting 11:00 am End of tour 17:00 pm Included: transportation and English speaking guide Not included: Entrance fees, Camera fees and tip for the guide

11 Ladakh - 3 day trekking (add to your booking) Book before departure During the three-day hike (see day for detailed itinerary), walk through the rugged mountain landscape of Ladakh, a region where few or no people live. The luggage is transported by vans, horses and / or donkeys. Baggage not taken on the trek, you stow at the hotel in Leh. You carry your own daypack containing your camera, water bottle and a sweatshirt or sweater. There is a local certified mountain guide with you. The accompanying cook cooks for you, taking into account our western stomach. There are 3 breakfasts, 3 lunches and 3 dinners included during the trek. You'll spend two nights in a tent. We provide a mattress but you must take care of a sleeping bag yourself. 129 Note: If you book the optional trekking, you do not make use of the standard program. These costs are naturally deducted from the price of the optional trekking. If you participate in the trekking this also means you have less leisure time in Leh. Note: In itself, this trek is not particularly difficult. However, the altitude, the heat and lack of shade can make it heavy. Your condition should therefore be reasonable to good. Leh - Monasteries of Chemrey, Taktok, Matho and Spituk Book at location 37 During this excursion you will visit by jeep Chemrey, Taktok, Matho and Spituk. Few tourists visit the convent of Chemrey. This is a monastery of the Drukpa order and was built to commemorate the death of King Singge Namgyal in There are beautiful Buddhist images on the walls of the prayer room and the place is inhabited by around 20 friendly monks. Taktok Gompa is an interesting little monastery, built around a cave. It is the only monastery of the Nyingmapa sect in Ladakh, the oldest Tibetan monastic order. Every year there is a beautiful monastery festival. Spituk Gompa is situated on a hill, 10 km west of Leh. Matho Gompa is a monastery situated 26 km southeast of Leh. It has a spectacular view of the lunar landscape of Ladakh. Excursion Time (subject to change and in consultation with the tour leader): 8:30 Departure from hotel Return to hotel 3:00 p.m. Included: Transport by jeep Not included: Entrance fees, Camera fees and tip

12 Leh - Monasteries of Shey, Thikse, Hemis and Stok Book at location During this excursion you will visit the monasteries of Shey, thik, Hemis and Stok. Shey Gompa is the former summer palace of the kings of Ladakh. Sacred fish swim in a pond and there is a small library, a collection of thangkas and a good 12 meters high Buddha statue of Shakyamuni, made of copper with gold leaf (the largest in the region). Outside the monastery are a lot of mani stones and chortens (prayer towers). A little further is the superbly situated Thikse Gompa, the monastery sits on a beautiful hill. This restored monastery belongs to the Gelukpa order (Yellow Hats). Everywhere are buildings, temples and chortens. You'll see an important collection of Tibetan books in the library and a 15 meters high statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha. The monastery is beautifully painted with various motifs and ideas. From the roof of the monastery you have a beautiful view over the valley and the village below. Hemis Gompa is situated in a lovely valley with babbling brooks. The monastery has some beautiful areas, where monks pray or meditate. This monastery of the Drukpa order founded in the early 17th century is an important monastery for Ladakhi Buddhists. At least once in their lives they have been here. Thangkas are religious images used to meditate and are standard in all temples. The largest thangka in Ladakh, over 12 m long, is in Hemis. This is displayed only once every 12 years! The monastery is also famous for its mask dance festival. The Stok Palace (Stok Gompa) is located 16 km upstream from Leh across the Indus. This palace houses the former royal family of Ladakh, but part is opened as a museum, especially exhibiting thangkas. 37 Manali - Trek to the Jogni waterfall Book at location Excursion Time (subject to change and in consultation with the tour leader): 8:30 Departure by jeep from the hotel Return to hotel 3:00 p.m. Included: Transport by jeep Not included: Entrance fees, Camera fees and tip This walk goes ahead with at least five participants. From Manali you walk through old Manali, Manu Temple and Nehru Kund to the falls at Jogni. The return trip will be taken by jeep to include a stop at the Vashist Temple. Excursion time (subject to change and in consultation with the tour leader): 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Included: trekking guide, jeep and a light packed lunch Not included: Entrance fees, Camera fees and tip 20 Festival info

13 HEMIS FESTIVAL - HEMIS, PHYANG AND TAKTOK (accessible from Leh) Ladakh is one of the most remote areas in India. This part of India was only opened to tourism in 1974 and only since 1979, air transport has come to the capital Leh. Ladakh is known for its resemblance to Tibet. That applies not only to the beautiful vistas, the pristine and vast landscape, but also for the valuable monasteries with their wealth of original wall paintings, idols, thangkas and religious festivals. During this, usually two-day festival, festivities will include a dazzling show of colourful masked dancers. The monks in their bright images (sometimes ancient) and terrifying masks reenact the different gods and tell their story (without words) of victory over evil. Each monastery in Ladakh has its own annual festival and people travel from far and wide to receive their blessing for the coming year. There is also time for more worldly entertainment: dancing and singing, good food, all kinds of popular games. The mornings of the festival are always filled with dancing. One by one, several dancers appear from the temple to perform their dance in the courtyard of the monastery. Dressed in colourful brocade robes, with beautiful masks, they enter the whirling dance to present their blessing. The monks of the monastery train for years to be able to depict religious stories. The stories are dancing legends that preach about good and evil and tell the local people about the Buddhist philosophy. There are always funny characters in the dance, trying to get spectators to laugh. At various points around the festival are all sorts of stalls where the Ladakhi prepare to surrender to more worldly entertainment. If you wish to take photos please be discreet with your camera. Hemis is the largest and richest monastery in Ladakh. It is especially famous for its festival with masked dances. The monastery of Hemis is filled with golden statues and stupas, inlaid with semiprecious stones. Situated in a lovely valley with babbling brooks and has some beautiful areas, where monks will be praying or meditating. Phyang is a typical Ladakhi village that looks like an oasis. It consists of houses built in traditional Ladakhi style and the green fields are fed by irrigation canals. Taktok is an interesting Gompa. It's a small monastery, built around a cave where once the Buddhist saint Padmasambhava meditated. It is the only monastery of the Nyingmapa sect in Ladakh, the oldest Tibetan monastic order. The monastery of Taktok is a bit off the beaten route and (outside festival time) rarely visited. " Monks in colourful costumes with huge pointed hats are dancing. Other senior monks in red are sitting on a sort of stage and assist with cymbals and a drum to accompany the dancers. The traditionally dressed Ladakhi people are great fun! Old wrinkled women wear braids and coloured hats with raised bumps at the front. Also necklaces with beads and some women have typical shoes: high soles and a raised front. What's also nice is to just look in the room where the monks keep their costumes. Here is a spacious wardrobe and there are various musical instruments such as the typical long, straight brass instruments. " PLEASE NOTE: During our festival trips our itineraries are subject to change. Please check our latest news section for any updates. News COUNTRY INFORMATION INDIA BACKGROUND INFORMATION Culture The cultural differences between Europeans and Indians are so vast that one could write a book about

14 them. Below is an overview of some points to take into account when mixing with the locals. "Yes and no": Maybe the most confusing cultural difference is the usage of yes and no. To begin with, yes is not indicated by nodding but by quickly moving the chin to and fro, causing the head to wobble (you should try it!). Secondly, whether spoken or wobbled, yes has a much broader meaning. Besides yes, it can indicate eh, or understood, or even something like that s probably right, or I have heard you, but I m not interested in what you are saying. Yes when uttered by an Indian hence doesn t give you a clue as to what they mean. No is a word Indians do not like to say too often, for example when asked if the bus to Colombo stops here. If offered a piece of liquorice, nine out of ten Indians will find the taste foul but the chances of them saying no when asked if they like it are very slim. Courtesy rules: Indians traditionally greet with a namasté, hand palms pressed together and held upright in front of the face. The higher you hold your hands, the more respect you express. In addition, with members of the same sex, you can often shake hands. Address everyone with sir or madam. Do not raise your voice, even if something does not go the way you like. It is better to ask for someone higher in rank, as delegation of decisions is not a strong point in Indian organisations. Presents are not unpacked immediately, but put aside. Showing eagerness is seen as a bad habit. Gifts: Do not be surprised or offended if you are not immediately thanked upon presenting a gift. The gift will usually be put to one side, unopened. This is not a sign of ingratitude. In India showing eagerness towards gifts is seen as a sign of greed, and not at all appreciated. Dress: Adult men wearing shorts are seen as ridiculous by Indians, and women wearing shorts as outrageous. The local population likes to dress formally for important events. Should you be invited to a wedding, ask about any dress code. Swimming naked or topless is prohibited. In a bikini, you will look foolish. Indian women bathe mostly in their sari. In practice, wearing a bikini results in persistent stares from Indian men. A bathing suit will make sunbathing a far more relaxed experience. Left and right: The right hand is used to eat, while the left hand is reserved for cleaning one s behind. Should you be eating a meal with Indians using your hands, remember to only use your right hand. Changing hands is considered foul by Indians. Do not touch anyone with your left hand. Appointments: We are from a hectic culture in which time equals money and appointments tend to be met punctually, or the day s schedule will be messed up. Indians do not have this problem. Not that they will always be late: it is possible that they didn t have anything else to do and that they decide to arrive an hour early. Privacy: Staring is not impolite and most Indians do not have the sense of space as we know it. They will come nearer to you than Europeans, like to join you when reading your book and they will study it meticulously as soon as you put it down. They may enter the room without knocking and they may stay around when they are done. It is up to you to indicate your boundaries. Men and women: In India, men and women treat each other differently than westerners. You will hardly ever see a man and a woman walking with their arms around each other. Physical contact in public between men and women is being limited as much as possible. To show your affection in public is likewise viewed as highly inappropriate. In stations and some cinemas, there are even separate cash tills for women and in trains there are separate compartments. However, the rules for the contacts between the sexes are rather liberal. As a man it is better not to sit next to a woman and not to talk to her. This rule applies in particular to women in their fertile age. Female tourists are free to make contact with Indian women. For western women, it is particularly important to take into account behavioural codes visà-vis Indian men. As a western woman, it is better not to look Indian men in the eye. Many men will think you are after something. Visiting holy places: Holy places must be entered barefoot, with the exception of churches. Hindu temples you must enter without head dress. In some temples, and always in the garbha griha, the holiest place of a temple, you are not welcome. To visit a mosque, wear clothes that cover you up. Sometimes you are asked to cover your head. During a service, men are separated from the women. When walking around a Buddhist stupa, walk to the left, so clockwise. It is not appreciated when tourists make pictures in front of a Buddha statue. In Jain monuments it is not permitted to take leather objects inside (shoes, bags, belts etc). Sikh temples should be entered covered up and with something to cover your head. Begging: Begging is partly a socially accepted activity. Through giving alms, Hindus can improve their karma and well-to-do Muslims according to the Koran are required to give 4% of their income to the less

15 well off. However, most inhabitants of India will loudly show that they disapprove of the same practice. Beggars are called bone-idle ; those people that want to get their daily handful of rice without working for it. Shoestring has the rule never to give money to children, if anything some fruit or something else to eat. (Preferably not sweets, there are hardly any dentists in these parts.) It is accepted to give to elderly people or invalids. The truth behind each beggar can be very different. One or two indeed have to beg for their food, but most are forced to pay for their place in a house with this activity. Besides, the number of drug and alcohol addicts is on the increase. It is wisest to give to a well-reputed charity. It is legitimate for beggars to sit near the exit door of temples and mosques and wait for baksheesh (alms). Both Hindus and Muslims have a system similar to our way of giving indulgences. Prices and haggling: Find out the real price of something. Paying too much leads to inflation and paying too little harms the seller. In practice, the price of an item will always be set higher than what you are expected to pay for it. It is better to see it as a game, which can be fun to play. In the eyes of the local population, westerners are always on holiday and earn loads of money. This can give them the feeling of being underdeveloped and poor. Try to give them a more balanced picture by describing daily life in the west. A cup of tea in a simple Indian street stall costs some 5 rupees, while we would easily pay 100 rupees at home. In general Be aware at all times that you are a guest in a country with different social customs than you are used to. Particularly during the festivals, it is important to adapt to the local standards, however strange you may find them. Religion The large majority of Indians (82%) are Hindu. The proportion of Muslims is 11.3%. There are also Christians, Sikhs, Buddhists, Jains, Jews, Parsis, Baha is and Animists. Hinduism It would seem as if Hindus have not much in common with western religion. In a sense, that is true. There is no central hierarchy, no common confession of creed and no founding father in whom all Hindus believe. Hindus express their religious feelings in various ways. For this reason, a concept such as ahimsa, non-violence, and ideas about vegetarianism co-exist with rituals in which animals are slaughtered or self-punishment is practised. A belief in reincarnation co-exists with a belief in a heaven for ancestors, and highly formalized rituals occur as well as highly emotional ceremonies. To get a better understanding of Hinduism, you should ask individual Hindus about their ideas on the matter. You will find that almost all Indians have very distinct ideas about their own religious experiences and are usually eager to tell you about them. You will probably notice that there are many different personal views amongst them. Hindus generally recognize the fact that life has four objectives. In the first place, the aim is to live up to one s religious and social obligations vis-à-vis the family and society. These obligations are summarized in the concept of dharma. Secondly, it is important to gain sufficient material possessions, so that alms can be given to beggars and itinerant holy men and the family can be sustained. This is known as artha. The third aim in life is experiencing sexuality or kaama, which should result in male offspring. The son is necessary to perform ancestral rituals. The last and highest goal is liberalization from reincarnation, or moksha (a comparable and much more well-known concept in the West is the Buddhist Nirvana). Apart from living up to these obligations, the individual Hindu is free to think whatever he or she wants. He can choose his own spiritual master or guru. There is a lot of respect for gurus and elderly people. An equal amount of respect is also paid to the numerous living holy men. Many of these holy men wander through India and are called saddhus. Most Hindus also believe in karma. This is the law that one deed prompts another, and everything you come across in life is actually a result of previous deeds. By doing good deeds you can build up credits from which you will reap the benefits, either in this life or in a following one. Hindus spend a lot of time worshipping gods that live in the temples. These can be enormous temples, or small home shrines in a corner of the room where the family god is worshipped. In the temple, their god lives like a king. Many Hindus believe that it is possible to actually meet their god in the temple. The world of gods A visit to a Hindu temple is an introduction to an extensive pantheon of gods. Most Hindus will tell you they believe in one god, even if it seems thousands exist. When you question them about this oddity, you will often be told that the manifest forms should be seen as the planes of a diamond. If a ray of light falls on the diamond, a different plane will light up every time, but it will still be the same diamond. In the following we will pay attention to a few important Hindu gods: Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu and Ganesha. We

16 shall also touch upon some goddesses. In the west, the Hindu trinity of Brahma-Vishnu-Shiva is often known. Brahma is hardly worshipped, however, as he is too abstract, does not take on a definite personality and has created hardly any exciting myths. In the whole of India, there is only one temple that is dedicated to Brahma, in Pushkar (Rajasthan). Brahma is the creator of the universe and he is portrayed having four heads. Sarasvati originally was described as Brahma s daughter, but in later times was described as his wife. She is seen as the goddess of the arts and is mostly portrayed with a stringed instrument in her hands. Shiva is one of the most important gods in Hinduism. He is often portrayed as an ascetic. He is dressed in a tiger skin or an elephant skin, as a reference to two demons he has once slain. His body is greyish or white, because he rubs himself with the ashes from incinerated bodies. He wears his hair in long braided strands, the style many ascetics in India have their hair. He has three eyes the third embellishes his forehead. From this third eye he can evoke a destructive fire, to destruct the universe when creation nears its end. In his figure and the attributes he carries, Shiva unites many opposites. Hindus explain this is because he is a god encompassing the whole universe, from high to low, from clean to foul. Thus in his one ear he wears an earring customarily worn by village women from low castes, while in his other ear he has an earring with the shape of a mythical crocodile typically worn by Brahmins. In one of his hands he holds a drum, damaru, resembling an hourglass. With this drum he indicates the rhythm of creation. One of his other hands carries a blazing fire that he destroys the world with. On his head he wears flowers, including the highly toxic datura, a flower from which hallucinatory substances can be distilled. Around his neck he has venomous snakes, symbols of death. On his head he also has a moon s crescent, another symbol of death. His mount is the bull Nandi. Nandi almost always lies in front of Shiva temples. Shiva has always been the god of ascetics. Many of his followers are saddhus (holy men), wandering through India alone or in groups, their bodies rubbed with ashes, doing penance in bizarre ways. They can be recognized by the three horizontal lines they paint on their foreheads. Their attribute is the trident. Shiva s women are known by many names and figures. Parvati is Shiva s most well known partner she became the symbol of the submissive, subservient woman. She had to sit and watch how Shiva went off with beauties in and out of season, but he would always come back to her. Parvati is the peaceful form of the concept of shakti (female energy), although she can also manifest herself in different, more ferocious forms: Durga, Chamunda or Kali. Durga is often worshipped as an independent goddess who has nothing to do with Shiva. She was created especially to save the gods of a terrible disaster, with her own weapons. As Kali ( the black ) Parvati occurs in her most terrible shape. She is black, her tongue protrudes from her bloody mouth, and she is hung with chopped human heads and skulls, wandering over horrible final resting places. She is supposed to offer help where no other god still has any power. Remarkably, even the lowest castes are allowed to worship her, which makes her following very large. Uniquely, she is presented with blood sacrifices; during her festivals, numerous black male animals are sacrificed, varying from cats to buffaloes. Vishnu is a god appearing in numerous appearances. He usually has a character milder and friendlier than Shiva, although even he has ecstatic aspects. Vishnu is usually pictured with a blue body colour and four arms, in which he holds a shell, a club, a lotus flower and a discus. He often wears a crown and a yellow robe. Around his neck he has a wreath of forest flowers and various pieces of jewellery, including a jewel that fulfils wishes. Vishnu has two mounts, the snake Shesha and the bird Garuda. The snake serves him as a resting place, while the bird carries him through the universe. Vishnu guards the world and in case something threatens to go amiss, he will act. He will appear on the earth as an incarnation. The Hindus know ten classic incarnations: fish, tortoise, swine, the man-lion Narasimha, dwarf, Rama with the axe, Rama with an arch, Krishna, Buddha and finally, Kalki. The last incarnation of Vishnu, Kalki, still has to appear. He will appear as a horseman on a white horse with a sword that flares as a comet. With this sword he will destroy all demons that threaten the world. The most popular incarnations of Vishnu are Krishna and Rama with the arch, the hero of Ramayana. Krishna himself figures in many different stories and situations, and is especially popular in his appearance as a young cowherd. He has a number of affairs with the shepherdesses of the village where he lives. Later he becomes a great religious preacher and he lays down his message to humankind in the Bhagavad Gita, an important philosophical text that is a central text in the Mahabharata. A particularly popular god is Ganesha. He can be instantly recognized between the hundreds of god figures of the Indian pantheon, as he has an elephant s head. Tens of different appearances exist of him. He is considered to be the spiritual son of Shiva, who would not be the one who begot him, however. He was born from the bath oil of his mother Parvati as a handsome boy. He developed his elephant head later. When Shiva came home after a long absence, Parvati was just taking a bath. She had put her son Ganesha in front of the door, on guard. Ganesha had not seen Shiva and refused to let him in. Shiva flew into a rage and beheaded the guardsman. Only when he heard he had murdered his own son, he had to quickly find the head of any other being to replace it, and this happened to be an elephant. When

17 the elephant s head was hewn off and fell onto the ground, one of the tusks broke off. It was placed in the sky in the shape of a moon s crescent. Ganesha is a god that takes away hindrances, when worshipped. If not worshipped, however, he can create hindrances. Ganesha does everything for the people that worship him and for that reason criminals and black magicians often worship him. Ganesha is worshipped in almost all Hindu temples. He resembles a rat. Festivals Whatever time of year you visit, it is likely that some festival or other is taking place during your stay. There is often something going on in the temples every full moon. Some of the more noteworthy festivals are: February: Shivaratri is the festival in honour of Shiva. On phalgun, the night of the full moon, festivals are held in every Shiva temple. February/March: Holi is a popular festival, particularly amongst the lower castes. This festival is held to mark the coming of Spring. It is a time when all accepted norms are thrown out of the window and everything is permissible, comparable to western festivals such as Mardi Gras. During Holi, people drench each other with water and powder paint, so make sure you are wearing old clothes at the time, as tourists are a popular target and the paint doesn t come out easily! October/November: Diwali or Tihar is celebrated. This is the Festival of Light and is marked by the illumination of thousands of lights, fireworks, baking cakes and other sweets and making patterns in sand outside one s house. This is to accompany the return of the god Rama from his banishment in the jungle. The festival of the goddess Lakshimi is held at the same time. October/November: Pushkar Camel Fair. At full moon during the Hindu month Kartika Purnima and Pushkar transforms from a sleepy place into a madhouse. Tens of thousands of camels and horses and as many as a quarter of a million people descend on the area. This is the largest camel market in India, probably the world. The occasion is marked by camel races, music and dancing. It is a spectacular occasion, and people stay in large, colourful campsites where food is made readily available. Food and drinks The eating habits in India differ greatly from Europe and adjusting can prove tricky. People usually sit on the floor and eat with their right hand from a metal plate. Hands and face are washed before the meal. Eating breakfast or drinking tea or coffee before brushing your teeth is seen as dirty. Water is drunk during meals and should you order a coffee without further instructions, it will be brought to you after the meal. Talking comes before the meal; people rarely talk during it. If you are invited out to eat, chat amiably before the meal but leave after it. Women and children eat separately and only after the men have finished. Guests are often the only ones to eat, while the host concentrates on your service. This is a sign of politeness, but can make Europeans feel uncomfortable. Indians eat three warm meals per day. Many Indians are vegetarians for religious or moral reasons. Even eggs are often avoided. For a long time the Indian diet was restricted to fish. Vegetarians are well catered for. Meat was not part of the Indian diet until the Moghuls and Europeans stepped in. The amount of meat used in Indian curry is small compared to European tastes. Of the meat dishes, we recommend tandoori and tikka. Breakfast: Cornflakes, toast, jam, butter and eggs are the standard fare in hotels and restaurants. Indians eat idlis (rice cakes), dosas (pancakes), puri badji (fried bread with veg) or different types of bread with curd. Lunch and dinner: In India, warm meals are eaten in the afternoon and evening. There are regional differences, but in the large cities you can find places specialised in a wide range of foods although the variety is difficult for westerners to notice at first. Indian meals consist of rice and different breads, with curries and dal. Curry is the name given to all vegetable, fish and meat dishes which are prepared using the most complex spice combinations in the world (up to 25 per meal). Dal is the name of dishes made from lentils and is the most important protein source. Other than Indian cuisine, western and Chinese food is also available in the large cities, although some of the attempts to replicate western food have rather poor results. One reason why the food often disagrees with tourists is that they often take too much curry in relation to the bread and rice. Curries are often spicy and fatty and should be eaten in relatively small amounts, as flavouring to the rice or bread. Snacks: Apart from the meals there are the snacks. Poor Indians often nibble puffed rice, dried chickpeas or peanuts. Belpuri is a snack favoured by people in and around Bombay. It is made of lentils, crunchy vermicelli, tomato, onion and fresh coriander. For a few rupees you can buy a small plate.