Orissa. example of typical Orissa templearchitecture,

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1 Orissa CHHATTISGARH JHARKHAND Sundargarh Mayurbhanj Jharsuguda Kendujhar Deogarh Sambal Bargarn pur Balangir Nuapada Nabarangapur Kalahandi Baripada Baleshwar Bhadrak Sonapur Anugul Dhenkanal Jajapur Baudh Cuttack Kendrapara Nayagarh Phulabani Khordha Jagatsinghapur Puri BAY Ganjam OF BENGAL Rayagada Gajapati Gopalpur on Sea WEST BENGAL example of typical Orissa templearchitecture, with over 108 temples dedicated to various deities, though the main deity is Tribhuvaneswar (Lord of Three Worlds, Shiva). The idol is bathed daily with milk and bhang (marijuana)! Non-Hindus are Koraput Malkangiri ANDHRA PRADESH Map not to Scale Temple tours and days in the sun, sand and sea, and if you enjoy it, a bit of wildlife the various moods of Orissa evoke awe and drama. A holistic flowering of the arts, lend their own hue to the state's classic historicity, impressive architectural heritage, and the Oriya yen for food and fine arts. BHUBANESWAR Nucleus of the Kalinga kingdom, the temple town of Bhubaneswar, is the capital of Orissa. Named after Lord Shiva, Bhubaneswar is a perfect showcase of the refined art of temple architecture in India. A thriving centre for art and culture and home to the Bomkai and Ikat sarees, the vibrant appliqué work of Pipli, intricate silver Bidriware and elegant cane furniture, it is also the gateway to the numerous charms of Orissa. City Lights Dotting the city scape are some magnificent temples. To begin with, the Lingaraj Temple is a splendid Lingaraj Temple not allowed inside the temple. The Mukteswara Temple, has ornate carvings that mirror a fusion of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain styles. The Mukteswara Temple 179

2 Udaigiri & Khandagiri Caves abound in wall paintings and frescoes in the Jain form of cave art while the Rani Gumpha of Udaigiri Vaital Deo Temple displays marked Buddhist influences. Parsurameswar Temple is the best-preserved of Bhubaneswar's early temples. Rajarani, Gauri and Brahmesvara Temple are some other temples at Bhubaneswar. The Orissa State Museum provides a comprehensive insight into Oriyan culture, while the Tribal Museum reflects the rich tribal heritage of the eastern states. An important landmark of the Old Town, the Bindu Sagar is in the north of the Lingaraj temple. Don't Miss the Beaches! A long coastline has rewarded Orissa with many beautiful virgin beaches. Watching sunrises and sunsets can become treasured memories. While the beaches of Gopalpur-on-Sea (171 km from Bhubaneswar), Puri (56 km) and Konark (56 km) are best known. There are the equally endowed ones, like Chandipur, Balighai, Pati- Sonapur and Talasari beaches. A religious intonation lends a visit to these multifaceted beaches more meaningful for many. Shopper's Paradise Silk or cotton fabrics and sarees, adorned with the exquisite Ikat and Bomkai work, are a must. Filigree silver jewellery, bidriware and appliqué handicrafts from Pipli are Rajarani Temple 180

3 also special souvenirs to take home. Try to shop at the Shopping Arcade, near Rajpath for handicrafts and jewellery; Utkalika, near Hotel Swosti, the State Handicraft/ Handloom Shop; Orissa State Handicrafts Emporium (near the main temple complex. Alandmark feature is the colourful and vivacious appliqué work. You can choose bags, parasols, garden umbrellas and table mats, in a dazzling burst of colours. Gourmet's Delights Spicy, tangy and strongly flavoured is the Oriya cuisine, tempered with liberal doses of coconut milk and mustard seed. The icing on the cake is the array of seafood cooked in a variety of styles. All top-end hotels have excellent restaurants serving gourmet selections. However, if looking for local experience, you have to try Maurya Gardens, on Station Square; Suruchi Food Plaza, in the Market Building; Venus Inn, at Bapujinagar, for South Indian vegetarian fare; Rice Bowl, at Shaheed Nagar for Chinese food. Excursions Nandan Kanan: 20 km away, this huge zoological park cum botanical garden has the added attractions of a lake and a ropeway. Nandan Kanan Cuttack: 30 km away from Bhubaneswar, this is one of the oldest cities of Orissa. There are religious shrines, fort ruins, and a centre of fine filigree jewellery. Ratnagiri-Lalitgiri-Udaigiri: 100, 85 and 90 km respectively, from Cuttack offer sculpture and ruins of a Buddhist complex. Lalitgiri Paradip: 125 km away, the drive to the port city is fascinating. There is also a lovely beach. Access: By Air: Indian Airlines as well as Jet Airways connect the Biju Patnaik Airport, 3 km from the city centre, to Kolkata, Delhi, Chennai, Mumbai, Vishakhapatnam, Hyderabad and Raipur. By Rail: Well connected with Kolkata, Puri, Chennai, Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Guwahati, Hyderabad, Tirupati and Thiruvananthapuram. By Road: Deluxe and regular buses ply to Berhampur (174 km), Chilka (110 km), Cuttack (24 km), Konark (69 km), Puri (58 km), Paradip, Rourkela, Sambalpur and other places. Interstate services operate daily between Kolkata and Puri via Bhubaneswar and Tatanagar (Jamshedpur). Temperatures: Summer: Min 30 C, Max 40 C; Winter: Min 16 C, Max 181

4 21 C. Annual rainfall: 152 cm. Best time to visit: October toapril. City Code: 0674 Airport: Railway Station: IndianAirlines: JetAirways: India Tourism: Banks: State Bank of India: , IDBI: Hospitals: Capital Hospital: , Ayurvedic Hospital: The Oberoi: ; Swosti Plaza: ; Mayfair Lagoon: ; Garden Inn: ; Sishmo: CHILKA LAKE One of Asia's largest lakes, Chilka is certainly India's largest inland lake. Spreading over 1,100 sq km, the lake is rich with marine life, and the wetland is said to sustain over 25,000 small fishermen. Aquatic fauna predominates. As many as 158 varieties of marine creatures are found here even as the lake derives substantial fame for being home to as many as 151 species of birds, including 93 migratory species. Some of these come from as far away as Sunrise at Chilka Lake Ladakh, Tibet, Mongolia, Mansarovar, the Caspian Sea, Siberia and NorthernAsia. Excursions Nearby excursions could be to the Kalijai Temple, especially when Makar Sankranti is being celebrated. Varuna's Temple at Barunkuda; Nabagraha near Berhampur and the Choubar Shiva Temple close to the Alupatna village are accessible from Satapada. Located about 22 km from Rambha, the temple dedicated to Goddess Narayani is situated atop a hill with a very picturesque view of the plains. Nirmaljhara is a mere 11 km from Rambha and is a 'pure stream' emerging at the foot of an image of Vishnu. Banpur is about 42 km from Rambha and is well known for the Bhagabati Devi Temple. From Chilka, one can proceed to Puri. Access: By Road: Chilka Lake can be reached from Bhubaneswar through Balugaon (100 km), Barkul (110 km) and Rambha (130 km), which are more or less equidistant. By Rail: Balugaon to the west of the lake and Rambha to the south are the nearest railway stations. Barkul also has a railway station. These towns are well connected to major cities like Kolkata, Puri, Chennai and Hyderabad. Temperatures: Summer: Maximum 45 C; Winter: Minimum 12 C. Annual rainfall: 135 cm. Best time to visit: October to March. City Code: Tourist Office: (0674) Chilka Development Authority: /

5 There are several tourist lodges around the lake: Rambha Panthanivas: (06810) , Satpada Panthanivas: (06752) GOPALPUR-ON-SEA This is the place to laze around, go for walks along the beach and enjoy the sea air. Welcome to Gopalpur-on-Sea, a small seaside village with a spectacular beach. The beach is the main attraction. At high tide, the waves recede at least one-fourth of a km. Though not dangerous, the absence of lifeguards are a warning for those who are not good swimmers. Visit the Lighthouse after 5 pm. A steep climb of 157 steps, up a corkscrew staircase to the top, offers a vista that is simply spectacular. Situated six km from the Oberoi Palm Beach, is a Shiva Temple. Chilka Lake is 45 km and Tattapani 67 km. Gourmet's Delights Excellent seafood is available at the Oberoi Palm Beach with an option of buying fresh fish/crabs and having them cooked by the chef. Hotel Mermaid offers Bengali specialities, while another option is the beachfacing New Snack Bar. Access: By Road: Relatively well connected to Barkul (75 km), Berhampur (16 km), Bhubaneswar (180 km) and Puri (242 km). Buses ply up to Berhampur or one could take a taxi further till Gopalpur. By Rail: The nearest railhead Berhampur (16 km) is on the Howrah-Chennai line of South- Eastern Railway. Trains connect to Kolkata, Bhubaneswar and Chennai. Alternatively, you can travel to Bhubaneswar and connect further to Delhi and Mumbai. Temperatures: Summers: Min 27 C, Max 35 C. Winter: Min 16 C, Max 27 C. Best time to visit: October to April. Annual rainfall: 118 cm. City Code: 0680 Bus Stand: Tourist Office: Banks: State Bank of India located in the City Centre with ATM. Hospitals/Chemists: MKCG Medical College Hospital, Meenakshi Hospital, Christian Hospital. Subudhi Medical Store, Shakti Medicals. Oberoi Palm Beach, Green Park, Sea Pearl, Holiday Home, Kalinga, Rosalin, Sea Side Breeze and Mermaid provide good accommodation. KONARK Scenes of love, amorous dalliances, wars, courts, hunting, sages preaching, dances, mythical figures, the most famous example of poetry in stone comes alive at Orissa's pride, the Sun Temple. A World Heritage Site, this masterpiece of Orissan architecture and sculpture, is the cynosure of every connoisseur of fine art as well as ordinary mortals. The first rays of the sun fall on the sanctum sanctorum, of the Sun God, and then circle the temple during the day, illuminating the three magnificent images of the morning, afternoon and evening sun. The beach, two km from the temple, is 183

6 Fairs & Festivals The Konark Dance Festival is held in the open-air auditorium, north of the Sun Temple, in early December. It brings together famous dancers from all over India, performing with the Sun Temples as a backdrop. Sun Temple fairly clean, though the currents can be strong. Another famous beach Balighai, allows you to savour the sea in splendid seclusion, girdled by dense casuarina trees. The Temple Fervour European sailors first called the temple of the sun the 'Black Pagoda'. But the temple temptations extend to many more. There is the Nine Planets' Shrine, depicting figures that represent the Navagrahas (nine planet deities). The second shrine in the south-west corner was earlier dedicated to Surya's wife, the 'Shadow Goddess'. Kuruma, 8 km away, houses the images of the Bhumisparsa, the seated Buddha. If Tantric cult intrigues you, visit the shrine of Barahi, a 9th century mother goddess with the face of a boar. The place also has temples dedicated to Laxminarayan and Amareshras. Ramachandi, 7 km away from Konark, derives its name from the goddess of the same name. Konark Dance Festival Another significant festival is Chandrabagha Mela, or Magha Saptami Mela, a religious fair when thousands of pilgrims congregate here to take a holy dip in the pool every February. Access: By Air: Bhubaneswar (65 km) is served by IA, connecting to Kolkata, Delhi, Hyderabad, Chennai and Nagpur. By Road: Konark is easily accessible by road. Regular bus services connect Puri (35 km) Bhubaneswar and most other places in the state. By Rail: Puri and Bhubaneswar are well linked by trains with all the major cities of India. Temperatures: Summer: Max 43 C, Winter: Min 10 C. Annual rainfall: 152 cm. Best time to visit: During the Konark dance festival, or October to March. City Code: Tourist Office:

7 Yatri Nivas: , Panthanivas: Also Sunrise Lodge and Labanya Lodge. Shopper's Paradise You can pick up impressive stone and wood carvings and Patta paintings. Also check out the famous appliqué work in Pipli. PURI One of the four holiest places in India, Puri is washed by the sea and embraced by casuarina fringed beaches. It could well be termed a temple town, given its many temples and the world famous 'Jagannath Rath Yatra'. It is one of the few religious Rath Yatra sites that combine the outdoor pleasures of divine beaches with religious sentiment. The Puri Beach is ideal for strolling on, especially once the sun goes down. This is when the night market, with tea-stalls, homespun eateries and souvenirs, including coral necklaces, comes alive. The Temple Fervour The Jagannath Temple is one of India's four holy dhams. Every year The Jagannath Temple millions of pilgrims come here during the monsoons for three auspicious days, to pay obeisance to Lord Jagannath, the temple deity. Two km from the Jagannath Temple is the Gundicha Mandir, the terminus of the annual Ratha Yatra and also where deities from the Jagannath Temple spend a week each year. Closed to non- Hindus. There is also the Lokanath Temple, often referred to as the poor man's Jagannath. Amidst Narendra Sagar stands a small temple. A replica of Lord Jagannath, Madan Mohan, is brought to the sacred tank for his daily dip during the annual Chandan Yatra (swimming festival). Another tank, Markandeshwara Tank, is believed to be the place where Lord Vishnu once took the form of a neem tree, even as his temple was buried deep under a sand dune. Located nearby are other temples, like Mangala Temple, in Kakatpur village and Bali Harachandi Temple, near Bramhagiri, associated with the Mahanavami ritual at the Sri Jagannath temple. Others are Maninag Thakurani, at the edge of Ranapur forest, Bada Raulai Thakurani Temple and the Lingaraj Temple in Bhubaneswar, said to have the largest lingam in the world. Only Hindus allowed inside. 185

8 furniture and artefacts are other popular buys. You could also take home the bright appliqué artides, horn articles, metalwork and paintings. Though the entire city is a shopper's paradise, do check out Swargadwara, a department store, and the road called Bada Danda, dotted with shops. Ananda Bazaar is the main shopping complex here, and Jagannath memorabilia are ubiquitous. Bali Harachandi Temple Gourmet's Delights Lush vegetables, aromatic long grain rice, or seafood, the city is brimming with eating options. You could begin with fresh sweetmeats, delicately flavoured with saffron that are sold on the beachfront. Though all top-end hotels have multicuisine restaurants, the local Oriya fare using seafood and vegetables tempered with yogurt and coconut milk could be sampled at Sunatan, Amber Restaurant, and Chhotu Motu Joshi Sweet Shop. Shopper's Paradise Curios in shell, ranging from necklaces and earrings to ashtrays and pictures are worth buying. The exquisite Passapali, Bomkai and Ikat sarees need no introduction. Bamboo Access: By Air: The nearest airport is Bhubaneswar. By Road: Good motorable roads connect Puri to Bhubaneswar, Konark, Berhampur, Tatapani, Sambalpur and Kolkata. By Rail: From Puri Railway Station, there are rail links to Kolkata, Chennai and Delhi. Temperatures: Summer: Maximum 30-plus, Winter: Minimum17 C. Best time to visit: October toapril. City Code: Government of Orissa Tourist Office: Banks: State Bank of India: , Hospitals: Government Headquarters Hospital: , Gopabandhu Ayurvedic Hospital: Mayfair Beach Resort, ITDC Nilachal Ashok, Toshali Sands, Sterling Holiday Resorts, OTDC Panthanivas Tourist Bungalow, Hans Coco Palms provide good accommodation. 186

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