Catholicism 101: Vestments

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1 Catholicism 101: Vestments! Often suggested the clerical clothing and liturgical vestments are a relic of an ancient past and above all were seen with disapproval by the Lord Jesus!! Jesus criticism of the dress of the Pharisees- long robes, large tassels/ broad phylacteries. Does this mean then that Jesus was hostile to vestments or people wearing external religious symbols and garments? Has not the example of Pope Francis putting aside some of the garments previously worn by popes not an indication that we need to get rid of vestments during Mass and other celebrations and have the clergy resort to wearing secular clothing?! Often this gospel has been used to attack the external dress of clergy, though should ne noted that Jesus was criticizing clothing that was not worn exclusively by priests, but things that every Jewish man, including himself wore each and every day. The fringes were known as the tzit tzit, tied pieces of cloth that hung off of the tallith (prayer shawl that all Jewish men carried with them to cover their heads when they prayed), they symbolized God s commandments. (talk about woman healed by touching them on Jesus). Phylacteries were leather boxes that contained biblical texts, attached to left arm and forehead, wrap arm to spell el shaddai, were to fulfill commandment of Deut 6.! Jesus is was not saying they were evil or that they were no longer to be used (though in time the first Christians moved away from these things and replaced them with others), but were being used as way to show off, to boast, to get attention.! Our tradition as Catholics is to have various clothing articles used either for every day dress (both clergy and laity), liturgical celebrations or ceremonial reasons. They come and go over history, but they do have an important role in the life of Catholics but should be seen in a balanced light, not totally rejected or given exaggerated importance.! Most visible ones for most of us are the vestments worn by bishops, priests and deacons during the celebration of Mass and other liturgical celebrations. Where do they come from?! Some have suggested that they are modeled on the vestments of the levitical priests of the OT. From Exodus we learn the high priest wore the following garments: On his head a linen turban with a gold plate/crown on the front of his head, a linen robe that covered his whole body (interestingly description of Jesus seamless linen robe at Golgotha resembles that of high priest), over top of linen robe was sash around his waist, then an ephod (a sleeveless linen apron with shoulder straps and waist band, covered back and front with embroidered strands of purple, gold, blue and red, with two onyx stones on shoulders engraved on them 12 tribes of Israel), on ephod was a folded linen breastplate with 12 precious stones, one for each tribe of Israel and urim and thummin (to cast lots). Golden bells hung from ephod resembles a bishop!! However, vestments as we have them today while similar with hats, robes, sashes, etc. the origins of our vestments come from the every day domestic dress of Romans during and after the time of Jesus. In the early days of the church (first 300 or so years) there little written mention of vestments but one of the testimonies to the use of them is in icons of saints, from which we see priest and bishop saints dressed in the vestments that were used at Mass.! But for those who like written documentation, the first mention of specific vestments in an official Church document was at the Council of Toldeo in 633AD where the vestments of

2 bishops, priests and deacons were discussed in the case of those clerics who were removed from their position and forbidden to wear these vesture. However, prior to this official other mentions in writings of popes and bishops like Pope St. Gregory the Great in 590AD wrote a letter that spoke of the vestments were given as gifts from the Pope.! What we see then is that in the first 6 centuries of the life of the Church and beyond, the clothing used at Mass developed from common garments worn in everyday life to specific garments endowed with symbolic meaning and were seen as sacred in character. Idea of putting on Christ, to show how he acts in the person, his personality is lessened so Jesus can shine forth!! So what are some of these vestments? Will talk about those worn by deacons, priests and bishops. I will omit talking at length about what cardinals and bishops wear when not saying Mass and religious habits for brothers and sisters, perhaps another talk.! Priest s clothes: cassock or soutane: Prior to 12 th century, Romans wore along heavy cloak lined with animal fur for warmth. In time laity opted for other clothes for warmth but robe was kept by clergy and became the cassock. IN the 13 th century of priest dressing like knights with fancy colours and elaborate decorations, was mandated they start wearing a simple black cassock (in time various colours- white for pope, red for cardinal, purple for bishop, black for priest).! Collar:In 15 th century, clergy adopt secular practice of turning the linen collar up and over outer garments. By 17 th century was universally recognized as sign of being a cleric. Some had linen collar adorned with lace like nobility, later forbidden and simpler design was mandated. Would be attached to one s cassock). Today is option for cassock (with fascia, a sash worn since 1600 s to show one s dedication to Christ (Peter getting girded to serve Christ to the end)) or black clerical shirt and pants, to be simple, modest and poor. A powerful outward visible sign for the world to see, does not get you the respect it once did but helps people know you are a priest and amazing how people will come up to you, my experience so far has been more positive than negative reaction.! The amice: a rectangular piece of linen or cotton clothe with two strings in upper corners, often embroidered with a cross or lace. Priest kisses the cross, then is placed over head, touches top briefly, then strings tied around waste and clothe tucked into collar to totally cover the priest s clothing. First mention of the use of the amice was in 821 by St. Thedoloph of Orleans. Its purpose is both functional and symbolic. For function, is meant to cover the priest s clerical collar, thus its name from latin amicire (to cover). Also helps to keep them clean and free of yellow sweat stains. Symbolically, is meant to be a protection from the thoughts of the devil place O Lord on my head the helmet of salvation that I might overcome the assaults of the devil. Is most commonly used when worn with roman style albs that have a wide open neck, other albs now designed with higher collars that hide clerical clothes so amice is often not used. Can be quiet beautiful, JPII had his coat of arms on his amice, BXVI wore an amice and appears Pope Francis also wears the amice.! The alb: From the latin alba=white. The white garment worn by deacons, priest, bishops and also altar servers. Is to cover the whole body, can have embroidery or lace on sleeves and longer half of torso. The collar is either open or higher collar. Is usually made of white linen or cotton but now synthetic materials also used. Must be white in colour. Origins of alb go way back to ancient Rome where it was worn as an everyday garb with a tunic or cloak over top. For

3 example in the year 260AD the emperor Valerian speaks of the alb. Originally in Rome it had no sleeves and was decorated with colored stripes from vegetable dyes, if had purple stripes was sign of being royalty for example. Sleeves were eventually added and Pope St. Sylvester made the long sleeved alb part of the clerical vestments. Pope Innocent III in 1207 gave the alb its spiritual/symbolic meaning as an outward sign of the purity of the clerical state as a symbol of his baptismal purity and integrity. When the priest puts it on he says purify me o Lord from every stain and cleanse my heart, that washed in the blood of the lamb I might enjoy eternal delights. Related to the alb is the surplice, was first used from 8 th century on as a shorter version of the alb that went over the cassock for administration of sacraments, etc. Part of the reason for it was the albs in the 4-8 th centuries were very massive vestments, hard to move around in without help, so surplice develops as way to move around more freely. Usually around knee length, either solid white or has lace or embroidery on sleeves and lower part of surplice.! The Cincture: A rope, either always white or matching colour for liturgical season, often with tassles on the ends for adornment. The rope goes completely around the body and is tied either in a knot and both ends of cincture draped to one side, or is tied in the front and two loops left in place to secure the stole and two ends of cincture draped on either side of the body. Origins of the cincture originate sometime in 7-9 th century. Was practice in ancient Israel of girding oneself with a rope (Elijah) but this does not appear to be origin of the ecclesial cincture. IN past cincture was not just made of rope but often of silk and other precious items. For bishops (green+gold), cardinals (red + gold), Pope (white +gold). The spiritual symbolic meaning of cincture is chastity and continence, as priest girds himself he prays gird me of Lord with the cincture of purity and quench in my heart the fire of concupiscence, that the virtues of chastity and continence may reign within me. Many modern albs are ability to gird alb without the use of a cincture so if this is the case then does not have to be worn (but alb should not be free flowing). Cinctures also seen in religious orders, each know to show one of their vows.! The stole: stolas=towel. A scarf like vestment that is draped over the priest s shoulders and worn down the length of his body or crossed over his body. The deacon wears the stole draped over his left shoulder. They are colored according to the liturgical color of the day. Some have tassles on the ends or are connected by a band of cloth or chain and often crosses are embroidered on the top of the stole which the priest/bishop kisses before he puts it on. A band of lace is often along the neck. Many are simple in design or quite ornate with brocade and embroidery. The origins were a functional one. It was a primitive scarf used to keep neck and upper body warm and to cover the face before someone was wrapped in their burial shroud. St Ambrose in 386 wrote of Lazarus being buried with an orarium or scarf the original name of the stole. By 4 th century, roman society had adopted the orarium as a sign of dignity/public prestige, for example messengers of the emperor wore white ones, military heroes wore them over their albas to show their military accomplishment. By 6 th century, stoles used in church services (icons of saints with stoles), by 8 th century stole was to be worn at all times by clerics. Many Church Fathers connect the orarium to the washing of the 12 apostles that Christ used, so its symbolic meaning came to be the service of the priest to his community and his jurisdiction over his faithful as their pastor. Thus Greek word stolas became more popular as resembled towel used by the Lord for foot washing. As a sign of humility for undertaking the priestly office, he prays as

4 he puts on the stole restore to me o lord the state of immortality which was lost by the collusion of my first parents, and although I am unworthy to approach thy sacred mysteries, grant me nonetheless eternal joys.! The Dalmatic: the outer vestment worn by a deacon during Mass. IT is similar to the priest s chasuble but has sleeves whereas the chasuble does not. The appropriate liturgical color is to be worn one a given day. It typically does not have any images on it but two vertical bands. The name comes from Dalmatia, the roman name for this region of modern day Croatia. In early roman times, it was garb of rank and privilege in civil society. The dalmatic began to be worn in 4 th century by deacons during Mass. IN 332 Pope ST. Sylvester gave the deacons the dalmatic to wear while assisting at Mass. Bishops are also permitted to wear a lighter pontifical dalmatic underneath of their chasuble since the 12 th century, wearing of dalmatic by bishop to emphasis his role of service to the community, thus is worn by bishop when washes feet on holy Thursday, Benedict did, not sure about Francis (wore deacons stole). Prayer while putting it on: May the Lord clothe me with the garment of salvation and with the vesture of praise, and may he cover me with the dalmatic of righteousness forever.! The Chasuble: The outer garment worn by priest or bishop, has no sleeves and to cover most of the body. Various colours for liturgical year, having varying types of ornamentation (must be sacred symbols, not secular ones). Most common styles we know today are gothic, semi- gothic or roman/fiddleback. Origins once again to ancient roman. While alb was garb of governing class, chasuble was a poncho like garment worn by workers for protection against the elements. Was solely belonging to worker/peasant class. By 350AD all classes began to wear it, thus of all garment is most ancient to Christians who were by and large peasants. IN time the aristocracy and popes adopted a more ornate style of chasuble called a planeta, while priest maintained humbler casula. IN time they become recognized as sacred vestments and only to be worn by clergy.. Council of Toldeo in 633AD decreed the chasuble to be residential garb of bishops, priest, deacons and minor clerics, by 8 th century only for priests and bishops, dalmatic for deacons. While humble in origins, became a more ornate outer garment. First designs were conical and covered whole body. Embroidery, brocade, appliqués, gold, silks, gems, etc. Use to be very long over arms so was custom for assistants to keep them from catching fire! IN time gothic style prevails, shorter cut on sleeves and length. In renaissance times roman style prevails, removal of sleeves, has a fiddle like shape, had lots of brocade, embroidery and images of Christ, Mary, saints, etc. truly stunning works of art! Is permitted now to wear both styles. The chasuble above all is to represent charity, thus it is worn over the stole which represent the priestly office. The priest prays o lord who said my yoke is easy and burden light, grant that I may carry it as to obtain your grace, amen.! The Cope: A cape like vestment, attached with a clasp in the front. Used in processions, liturgies outside of Mass, permitted at the beginning of Mass. Originally was worn over the chasuble as a kind of raincoat to protect against turbulent weather. Often has embroidery or brocade along front of cope and back panel (was once a hood).! Liturgical colours: Green: OT- hope, everlasting life, fidelity. White: Christmas, Easter, BVM, pastors, virgins, religious, chair of peter, all saints, funerals.=joy, exuberance, celebration, resurrection, victory, purity, innocence. Gold and silver: Solemn Feasts. Red: Martyrs, good

5 Friday, palm Sunday, exaltation of holy cross, Pentecost=HS, suffering of apostles, martyrs, Jesus. Purple=lent, advent, funerals, all souls days=mourning, sorrow, repentance, penance. Black=funerals, all souls day=mourning, death. Rose=gaudete and laetare Sunday=subdued joy (story of golden rose). Blue? For Marian feats in Spanish countries, a special privilege!! Bishops- zuchcetto, mitre, crozier, pallium, pectoral cross, ring.! The Zucchetto: AKA skull cap, black for priest, purple for bishop, red for cardinal and white for pope (tell about swap tradition), over back portion of head, made of silk or wool. Once covered the clerical tonsure that cleric received (shaved portion of crown of head that indicated you were a cleric). Origins seem to be in Middle Ages (not connected to jewish kippyah, shows submission to God). Worn for duration of Mass except liturgy of the Eucharist before offertory.! The Episcopal Ring: a symbol of his authority. First appears in 3 rd century, St. Isidore of Seville tell us in 637 that ring was given on occasion of a bishop s consecration to symbolize his governance and also his marriage to the Church and his spiritual parentage over the faithful of his diocese and their fidelity his teaching. 3 types used, the solemn pontifical ring with jewels for liturgical functions, a gemmed ring for ceremonial use and ordinary common everyday one without gems and is gold/silver with coat of arms arms, images of Christ, etc. Many bishops opt to just have one.! Pectoral Cross: a cross of gold or silver, suspended by a metal chain or a silk cord (for bishops gold/green threads), reflects order and dignity of the office of bishop. Originally was a reliquary of the True Cross, to be kept close to his heart, desirable if they do but not always possible anymore, tradition of passing them on. To be worn at all times by bishop, if wearing a cassock hangs in front, suit then tucked into left breast pocket, if wearing chasuble to be worn beneath. Two types, ordinary for everyday use suspended by chain and more solemn and ornate pontifical cross (has relic) for liturgical use and attached with silk cord.! The Crozier: Made of either wood or metal, the crozier is the bishop s staff and usually consists of three parts: 1) the crook (often has image or coat of arms in the crook) 2)the staff 3)pediment (pointed bottom of staff). It symbolizes the pastoral authority of the bishop over his people (his jurisdiction over his diocese) and Christ s love and protection for his people as the shepherd who guards his flock. Legend holds that the 12 apostles had crozier like staffs that they carried on their missionary journeys. Also seen for practical reason as something to lean one during long celebrations in very heavy vestments when seats not common in church. Crozier is spoken of in early church, in 3 rd century was a smooth wooden staff and by 4 th essential part of bishop s insignia. Throughout history usually the staff was made of fine wood, the crook often of metal, for a time had a piece of silk attached to it to guard against tarnishing. The Pope does not use a crozier (legend of Peter sending his staff to eucharius, bishop of treves) as his jurisdiction over the Church is universal and not particular to just one territory. However, to stress his union with fellow bishops and the pastoral role of the bishop, Paul VI began using a pastoral staff topped with a crucifix, Benedict and Francis have used older style with cross on top.! Pallium: a white scarf lie garment made of lamb s wool with 6 black crosses given to archbishops by the Pope when they become an archbishop. The symbolism of pallium is the lost sheep who are found again, carried on the shoulders of the Good Shepherd and the lamb of God who died for our sins. Also a symbol of the pope sharing his authority with bishops and being in

6 communion with them. Worn by the ancient Romans for warmth, We know St Justin Martyr in 165 said to have been martyred wearing his pallium, wear worn by both laity and clergy in 3 rd century, in time not worn anymore by laity and only by clergy. By 5 th century was given by pope as gift to new archbishops. Is worn during Mass over his chasuble, it is held together by three gold pins which represent 3 days in the tomb. On January 21, feast of St. Agnes, pope blesses two lambs in Urban VIII chapel in apostolic palace. Two lambs are presented to be are donated by canons of john lateran and are raised by the trappist monks in the gardens at Tre Fontanne, during holy week after the lambs are sheered, are brought to st ceclias to high altar and then the pallia are woven by Benedictine nuns of st. Cecelia in trastevere, placed in a bronze urn near the chair of st peter until June 29 th, feasts of Peter and Paul. The night before they are brought to the crypt of St. Peter beneath the high altar and kept overnight in a silver casket in niche of the crypt s Altar of the Confession, next morning blessed and conferred on new archbishops.! Mitre: A 10 th century addition to the bishop s insignia. Thought to once originate from mitre of high priest of OT but no historical evidence to support this, rather seen to come from ancient Greece where it was a cap worn by athletes but unsure of these origins. The ribbons of the mitre of infulae is more reliable, were a headband worn by athletes to collect sweat while working out. Winners presented with laurel wreathes a sign of victory. Greek priests began to adopt this headgear. Not sure if used in early church, first mentions in 10 th century of pope using a mitre for non- liturgical events. Soon became part of papal regalia and then by 11 th century was gift from pope to bishops. Was seen as both civil and liturgical headgear. It is made up of two flat pieces, two infulae/ribbons coming out of back, sown together. 3 types, the precious mitre often adorned with gems and embroidery (used for Mass and big feasts) a golden mitre of gold cloth (used in lent and advent and ordinations) and simple mitre which is white (good Friday, funerals, services outside of mass, Masses with the pope).! Papal Bonus: The infamous red shoes! Dating back to 4 th century, were seen as a symbol and tribute to martyrs of Rome and the early church and also reminder to pope of his union with the Cardinals. Also seen as fire of Holy Spirit and the that his authority rest on the blood of Jesus Christ. Not prada, made by roman cobbler of red Moroccan leather. The Fisherman s ring: has an image of st peter on it casting a fishnet into the sea, is made of gold, has pope s name. Is not worn daily by popes, kept in apartment to seal papal bulls and simplified version worn on daily basis. This ring is destroyed upon the death of the Pope. Camauro: a fur- trimmed red bonnet (white during Easter) worn by popes, used to keep warm on a cold day and so kinda looks like a santa clause cap, pope in past were buried wearing it, many can be seen in Rome today. Why White? Long believed when Pius V became pope in 1566, he choose to kept wearing his white Dominican habit as a sign of humility and desire to fight decadence in papal court (worth noting on his second day as Pope Francis went to Mary Major to pray at St. Pius V tomb). But recent research notes that Gregory X in 1274 mentions that the pope wore a white cassock, we see this in the portrait of Julius II by Raphael in white that predates the pontificate of Pius V. When they started to wear white cassock in unknown, know from past they wore red cape, mozzetta and shoes, but when white cassock begins to be worn is a mystery.

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