INSIDE IRAN September 9-29, 2017

Transcription

1 Harvard Alumni Travels 124 Mount Auburn Street 6th Floor Cambridge, MA (617) phone (617) fax INSIDE IRAN September 9-29, 2017 Begin in Tehran and admire the magnificent Crown Jewels stored in an enormous vault at the Bank Melli. Once belonging to the Shah and his family, the profusion of crowns, tiaras, thrones, necklaces and other imperial regalia assembled here is impressive. Visit Ardabil, Tabriz, and Hamadan before flying to Kerman to explore the town s extensive bazaar, mosque, and caravanserai complex. Drive to Yazd, one of the last strongholds of Zoroastrianism. On the hills outside of town stand the remains of the old towers of silence, which the Zoroastrians used for funerary purposes. Travel south to Shiraz and Persepolis the greatest and bestpreserved monument to the achievements of the Achaemenian kings. In Isfahan discover glittering domes, tiled with floral arabesques which tower above wide shaded avenues and terraced gardens. Return to Tehran before departing for home. STUDY LEADER: DAVID J. ROXBURGH is the Prince Alwaleed Bin Talal Professor of Islamic Art History at Harvard University where he has taught in the Department of History of Art and Architecture since he completed his PhD at the University of Pennsylvania in In his publications, Roxburgh has focused on primary written sources, manuscript painting, arts of the book, calligraphy, Timurid art and architecture, exchanges between China and the Islamic lands, travel narratives, and the pre-modern through contemporary histories of collecting, exhibitions, and museums. In several courses, he and his students have examined the consequences of the Mongol campaigns of the 1200s throughout Central Asia, Afghanistan, and Iran up to the late sixteenth century. GROUP SIZE: guests PRICE: Per person double occupancy $11,595 / single supplement $1,775

2 INSIDE IRAN September 9-29, 2017 ITINERARY (B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner) Saturday, September 9 / Depart U.S. for Tehran Sunday, September 10 / Tehran Arrive in Tehran late this afternoon and transfer to your hotel. Tonight s welcome dinner is at the hotel s Persian restaurant. Overnight: Espinas Hotel (D) Monday, September 11 / Tehran Enjoy a full day of sightseeing in Tehran. This morning visit the National Museum, also known as the Archaeological Museum, with its fine collection including a relief of Darius the Great from the Treasury at Persepolis. Continue on to the Glass and Ceramics Museum of Iran followed by lunch at a local restaurant. After lunch view the Iranian Crown Jewels, a spectacular collection stored in the basement vault of the Bank Melli Iran. Admire the world s largest uncut diamond as well as the Peacock Throne. Before returning to the hotel, meet with the Persian Wildlife Heritage Foundation. The foundation promotes science and research, local community involvement in conservation, and environmental awareness and policy work. Protecting the endangered Asiatic Cheetah and its environment is of particular importance to the Foundation. Dinner tonight will be at a local restaurant. Overnight: Espinas Hotel (B, L, D) Tuesday, September 12 / Tehran Travel to northern Tehran to visit the Niavaran Palace and Museum, the last home of Mohammad-Reza Shah and his family. The complex boasts two palaces, a pavilion, Persian gardens, a museum, and a gallery. Continue on to the modest home of the Ayatollah Khomeini in Jamaran. Eat lunch at a local restaurant before a special visit to the Aaran Gallery, one of Tehran s most important contemporary art galleries. Owner Nazila Noebashari will meet you for a discussion about contemporary art in Tehran. Before returning to the hotel for dinner, visit the Carpet Museum, which houses a sample of excellent Iranian carpets. Overnight: Espinas Hotel (B, L, D) Wednesday, September 13 / Ardabil Take a morning flight to Ardabil. Upon arrival, begin exploring the UNESCO World Heritage site mausoleum complex of Shaykh Safi al-din ( ). This Safavid dynastic shrine is one of the most important shrines of the Islamic world. It provides a fascinating insight into Safavid history, politics, religion, archaeology, art, and architecture. In the afternoon check in to the Laleh Hotel where you will enjoy dinner this evening. Overnight: Laleh Hotel (B, L, D) Thursday, September 14 / Tabriz In the morning drive to Tabriz, crossing the spectacular Alborz mountain range. Upon arrival have lunch at a local restaurant before exploring the city. Originally founded in Sassanian times, Tabriz became a major cultural center in the 10th century. In the 13th century, it was promoted to the rank of capital by Mongol leader Genghis Khan, and the town retained this status for many years. Your first stop will be at the Blue Mosque, considered by many to be a masterpiece of Iranian decorative tile work. Continue on to the Armenian cemetery to view the gravestone of Howard Baskerville, a 23-year-old American missionary and one of the most unlikely heroes of Iranian history. End the afternoon at the fabulous bazaar of Tabriz, a large labyrinthine of goods including carpets, silverwork, and jewelry made in Tabriz. Check into the Pars Hotel. Enjoy dinner at the gardens of the Shah Goli (the Royal Lake), whose leafy ambience provides a lovely setting for dining. Friday, September 15 / Tabriz Today enjoy a full day excursion to the Saint Stepanos Monastry. This part of a UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to the 7th century. Situated close to what was once eastern Armenia, the monastery constituted a major center for the dissemination of Armenian culture in the region. This church, along with St. Thaddeus, are the last regional remains of this culture. Return to the hotel in the afternoon. Dinner tonight will be at a local restaurant.

3 Saturday, September 16 / Takab Begin the day driving about three hours to Takab. Upon arrival, enjoy lunch at a local restaurant. After lunch continue on to Takht-e Soleiman Solomon s Throne to observe the well-preserved remains of a fortified settlement built around a small lake on a hilltop. Takht-e Soleiman was a great Sassanian religious center, and the oldest remaining structures here are the ruins of a Sassanian palace and a fire-altar that once formed part of a much larger temple complex. This is the place where the Warriors Fire, one of the three most sacred fires of Zoroastrianism, was kept. It is also one of the many places that claims to be the birthplace of Zoroaster. Check in at the Ranji Hotel and enjoy dinner there this evening. Overnight: Ranji Hotel (B, L, D) Sunday, September 17 / Hamadan This morning drive about three hours to Hamadan, which in antiquity linked Mesopotamia to the Iranian plateau. It was here that the Median capital, Ecbatana (Hegmataneh), was founded. At the height of its glory as the Achaemenid summer capital, it was described as an opulent city with splendid palaces, buildings plated with precious metals, and seven layers of town walls (the inner two coated in gold and silver). Upon arrival enjoy lunch at a local restaurant. Begin exploring Hamadan with a visit to the Gonbad-e Alavian (or Masjid-e Alavian) structure - a 12th century mausoleum belonging to the late Seljuk period. The stucco ornamentation of its mirhab with intricate geometric designs, whirling floral motifs, and inscriptions in Kuffic rank among the most beautiful of its kind in Iran. The most noteworthy monument in Hamadan, the dome may at one time have been intended as a mosque. End the day at the Mausoleum of Esther and Mordechai, a 14thcentury tomb tower that was once Iran s most important Jewish pilgrimage site. Transfer to your hotel for dinner. Overnights: Azadi Hotel / (B, L, D) Monday, September 18 / Kerman This morning drive just over 3 hours to Tehran, stopping en route for lunch. Time permitting, upon arrival in Tehran visit the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art. Progressive Queen Farah Diba was the driving force behind the museum, and by the time it opened in 1977, its nine major galleries were home to a remarkable collection of Western and Iranian art. The museum boasts works by Picasso, Matisse, Van Gogh, Miró, Dalí, Bacon, Pollock, Monet, Munch, Moore and Warhol, among many others although they are rarely on display. Late afternoon flight to Kerman (time subject to change). Upon arrival, transfer to the Pars Hotel where you will dine this evening. Tuesday, September 19 / Kerman Begin the day with a visit to Rayen, a preserved medieval city molded from the red clay of the surrounding desert. An oasis town in the Dasht-e Lut Desert, Rayen is surrounded by date palms and citrus orchards. Drive about one hour back towards Kerman, stopping in Mahan for lunch at the delightful Bagh-e Tarikhi Gardens, which were designed as traditional Persian gardens. You may opt for sitting traditional Persian style (on a raised platform) or in western style tables and chairs. After lunch, drive to the beautiful tomb of Shah Nematollah Vali, the founder of a Dervish order that continues to be an active spiritual force in Iran today. Return to Kerman, stopping at the site of Gombad-E Jabaliye, meaning Mountain of Stone. Some historians have determined that it predates the 2nd century A.D. and may have been a Zoroastrian building. Dinner this evening will be at the hotel. Wednesday, September 20 / Kerman / Yazd This morning continue exploring Kerman s historical core. Walk through an attractive ensemble of buildings inside the Kerman Bazaar, including a lovely madrassa built around a garden courtyard and a historical bath-house, now a museum. Enjoy a glass of tea at a local tea-house before driving to the Akhvan Hotel for a delicious Persian lunch. Following lunch, continue to Yazd, passing through many acres of pistachios and the town of Rafsanjani, home of the former President of Iran. Stop for a break en route at the Zein-o-Din Caravanserai. This 400-year old caravanserai was built on the orders of Shah Abbas I and is located two days camel ride south of Yazd. It has recently been converted into a hotel. Close by is an Onager Sanctuary where a local environmental agency has successfully been breeding these extremely rare and critically endangered Persian equids (horses). There are currently estimated to be fewer than 500 remaining in Iran. While it is not possible to visit the sanctuary, you might spot the Onagers from the road. Upon arrival in Yazd, transfer to your hotel for dinner. Overnight: Moshir Garden Hotel or Dad Hotel (B, L, D) Thursday, September 21 / Yazd Located in the heart of Iran between the Kavir and Lut Deserts, Yazd was a major stop on the international caravan routes to Central Asia and India. Marco Polo referred to it as the good and noble city of Yazd. The view from the dome of the 14th-

4 century Friday Mosque shows the sunbaked roofs and wind towers of the city. Visit the home of the former Governor of the city known as the Dowlat-Abad House to see how these wind towers work and to learn more about residential Persian architecture in the desert. End the morning at the Water Museum, which offers an excellent introduction to qanats, the underground water channels that Persians have used for over 2,000 years to irrigate crops and supply drinking water. After lunch drive to the Friday Mosque, whose facade is decorated from top to bottom with dazzling blue tile work. Continue with a walking tour through the covered streets of the old quarter of Yazd. Walk by the old water tower surrounded by four wind towers before stopping at Khan-e Laari, one of the best preserved Qajar-era houses in Yazd. Spend the rest of this afternoon learning about the Zoroastrian religion. There are about 400,000 Zoroastrians left in the world, of which about 60,000 live in and around Yazd. It was one of the first religions to postulate an omnipotent, invisible god. At sunset, visit the Ateshkade. These towers of silence were used until thirty years ago by Zoroastrians as a place for leaving their dead to be devoured by vultures. The towers were a way to free the souls of the dead without polluting the environment through burial or cremation. Enjoy an early dinner this evening at a café where many of Yazd s young professionals come to eat and socialize. Overnight: Moshir Garden Hotel or Dad Hotel (B, L, D) Friday, September 22 / Shiraz This morning drive to the small village called Taft, where a large number of Zoroastrians still live. Walk through this medieval town along narrow streets to their main fire temple a simple building where a flame is always lit. After lunch, continue to Pasargad, where Cyrrus the Great defeated Astyages the Mede in 550 BC and, according to tradition, decided to build the first Achaemenian capital on the site of his victory. The white limestone tomb of Cyrrus stands apart from the scattered remains of gardens, palaces, and temples at Pasargad. Upon arrival in Shiraz, transfer to the Zandiyeh Hotel where you will dine this evening. Overnight: Zandiyeh Hotel (B, L, D) Saturday, September 23 / Shiraz This morning visit the Eram Garden, then continue to the Fars Museum. This octagonal pavilion was originally built by Karim Khan and was used for official receptions. A short distance away is the Arg-e Karim Khan. This citadel s shape resembles a medieval fortress. During the Zand dynasty it was used by Karim Khan as his living quarters, and it later served as the governor's seat. Today the citadel has been restored and is a museum. Next, visit Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque, the oldest mosque in Shiraz. The Pink Mosque gets its name from the beautiful pink tiles used for its interior design. Enjoy lunch at Shaterabbas Restaurant, which serves superb Persian cuisine. After lunch, visit the tomb of Saadi. Born in 1213, he became one of the major Persian poets of the time, known not only in Persian speaking countries but also in the west. His works have been quoted as recently as 2009 by President Barack Obama. End the day at the tomb of the celebrated poet Hafez. The poet lived in Shiraz his entire life ( ) and is well known to Iranians. Dinner this evening is at the Haft Khan Restaurant. Overnight: Zandiyeh Hotel (B, L, D) Sunday, September 24 / Shiraz Enjoy a full day excursion to Persepolis, Naghsh-e-Rostam, and Naghsh-e-Rajab. Drive to Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenian Empire and perhaps one of the most spectacular archaeological sites surviving today. Following lunch in the shade of grape vines at the Laneh Tavoos Restaurant, visit Naghsh-e-Rostam, which contains four tombs widely accepted to be those of Darius the Great, Xerxes, Artaxerxes, and Darius II. Opposite Naghsh-e-Rostam is Naghsh-e-Rajab, with three Sassanian bas-reliefs that depict various scenes from the reigns of Ardashir I and Shapur the Great. Return to Shiraz for dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight: Zandiyeh Hotel (B, L, D) Monday, September 25 / Isfahan Today drive about 6 hours to Isfahan, stopping en route for lunch. Along the way, visit the Sassanian site of Bishapur, which was founded on the site of an older city abandoned in the time of Alexander the Great. The town rapidly became one of the most important cities in Fars Province. The bas-reliefs are carved on a rock face overlooking the Shapur River and depict Shapur s victories over the Romans. Upon arrival in Isfahan, visit Hasht Behesht, one of Isfahan's two surviving Safavid pavilions. The Hasht Behesht was restored by the National Organization for Conservation of Historic Monuments of Iran as part of a project that received an Aga Khan Award for Architecture in Transfer to the Abbasi Hotel. The large caravanserai was originally constructed to finance the students and professors of the college, but it was later transformed into a hotel where guests can drink tea inside a garden courtyard with the full view

5 of the Madrassa Chahar Bagh's magnificent yellow and turquoise dome. This evening enjoy a Persian buffet dinner served in the hotel courtyard. Overnight: Abbasi Hotel (B, L, D) Tuesday, September 26 / Isfahan Begin exploring Isfahan with a visit to the Palace of Forty Columns, a charming pavilion used to receive dignitaries and ambassadors. Here the walls and ceilings are covered with frescoes and the wooden roof of the porch is painted with geometrical decorations interspersed with flowers. Walk to the nearby immense Maydan-e Shah, or Royal Square. The square is the central focus of this fascinating city and never failed to inspire and awe European merchants and ambassadors to the Safavid court. Four jewels of 17th-century architecture adorn each side of the square, symbolizing the political, economic, and religious spheres of Safavid Persia. Tour the Lotfallah Mosque, which served as a private chapel for the Imperial family. The domed ceiling has the finest faience tile work of 17th-century Persia. Eat lunch at the Bastani Restaurant, located in the heart of the bazaar. After lunch enjoy free time in the bazaar before returning to the hotel mid-afternoon to relax. Overnight: Abbasi Hotel (B, L, D) Wednesday, September 27 / Isfahan This morning visit the Friday Mosque, which is like a museum with its tiled ivans, vaulted ceilings, and lofty domes. The magnificent Friday Mosque displays more than 800 years of Persian religious architecture, and it is an excellent spot to learn about Iranian architectural history. Continue on to admire some of the five bridges crossing the Zayendehrud River, which is now dry due to drought and the construction of a dam. Next, drive to the Armenian quarter of Isfahan. Enjoy a walking tour of the fourteen churches here, beginning at the Bethlehem Church. After lunch at the Hermes Café, continue by foot to the Vank Cathedral, one of the first Armenian churches to be established in the Jolfa district after the Ottoman War of The interior is covered with gilded carvings and intricate paintings of Biblical stories. This evening, enjoy a farewell dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight: Abbasi Hotel (B, L, D) Thursday, September 28 / Tehran Depart this morning and drive 2 hours to Natanz. Various small shrines dot the area, including the shrine of Abd as-samad. The elements in the present complex date from 1304 with subsequent additions and restorations, such as the Khaneqah and Muqarnas vault. The tomb honors the Sufi Sheikh Abd al- Samad and was built by the Sheikh's disciple. Continue on for about 2 hours to the oasis town of Kashan where we will stop first at the historical Garden of Fin, which was first planted during the Safavid period and kept alive with water from the nearby Sulaimanieh Spring. A museum on the site displays artifacts from nearby Teppe Sialk. Also, visit a fine example of a 19th century merchant residence known as Taba- Tabai House. Admire its beautiful stucco dome and inlaid mirror work, with some of the best examples of existing badgirs (wind-catchers). Enjoy lunch at the Manouchehri House. Kashan is the epitome of everything Persian, from its mosques, caravanserais, and stately gardens to its carpets, ceramics, and delicate embroideries. The water of Kashan comes from the qanats, an extraordinary system of irrigation that relies on underground water channels. One sees them, still active, all over Iran. Drive for about 1.5 hours and enjoy a rest stop just outside of Qom a religious learning center. Be sure to purchase some delicious Persian cookies and nuts to bring home! Continue about 2 hours to Tehran and, upon arrival, check in to the Novotel Hotel located very close to the Imam Khomeini International Airport. Enjoy a lovely farewell dinner this evening at the hotel. Overnight: Novotel Hotel (B, L, D) Friday, September 29 / Departures Depart on your international flight home.

6 INSIDE IRAN September 9-29, 2017 RESERVATION FORM Name 1 (as it appears on passport) Date of Birth Name 2 (as it appears on passport) Date of Birth Address City State Zip Phone: Home Office Mobile Enclosed is a check for $1,000 deposit per person payable to Harvard University to hold place(s) on the Inside Iran program. OR Please charge my deposit of $ to Visa MasterCard AMEX Discover Account # Expiration Date CVV We confirm that I/we have carefully read the information on refunds, general conditions and the responsibility clause specified in the tour conditions. Signature Date Signature Date Please return this form with deposit check to: Harvard Alumni Travels, 124 Mount Auburn Street, 6th Floor, Cambridge, MA or fax it to (617) QUESTIONS? Please call us at (617) OR hmsctravel@hmsc.harvard.edu HMSC Membership The museums exhibitions draw on Harvard s historic collections, and its educational programs for children and adults provide public access to the expertise of the university s research scholars. A forum for thoughtful and informed exchange of ideas, the museums depends on membership to support their activities and outreach to communities in Cambridge and beyond. I would like to become a member at the following level: $35 Senior/Student $50 Individual $85 Family $125 Supporting $250 Sustaining $500 Patron Please enclose a separate check made out to the Harvard Museums of Science & Culture for membership. Thank you.