TEMPLE-CAVES in THAILAND A picture-guide book Spotlight on temple-caves (cave-temples) Text & pictures by Nils B. Vogt, Dr. philos Published by www.booksmango.com E-mail: info@booksmango.com Text & cover page Copyright Nils B. Vogt, Dr. philos No part of this book may be reproduced, publisher.
C o n t e n t s Foreword...6 Introduction...7 Central Thailand...16 Kanchanaburi Province...16 Lopburi Province...30 Nakhon Nayok Province...34 Phetchaburi Province...34 Prachuap Khiri Khan Province...39 Ratchaburi Province...43 Saraburi Province...44 Suphanburi Province...46 Uthai Thani Province...48 Eastern Thailand...52 Chachoengsao Province...53 Chanthaburi Province...54 Chonburi Province...56 Prachinburi Province...57 Rayong Province...57 Sa Kaeo Province...66 About the Author...209 Index...210 Northeastern Thailand...68 Amnat Charoen Province...69 Bueng Kan Province...70 Chaiyaphum Province...75 Kalasin Province...83 Khon Kaen Province...84 Loei Province...92 Mukdahan Province...106 Nakon Phanom Province...108 Nakhon Ratchasima Province (Khorat)...109 Nong Bua Lam Phu Province (Lamphu)...112 Nong Khai Province...113 Roi Et Province...115 Sakhon Nakhon Province...116 Ubon Ratchathani Province (Ubol)...118 Udon Thani Province...122 Yasothon Province...125 4
Contents North Thailand...126 Chiang Mai Province...127 Chiang Rai Province...132 Kamphaeng Phet Province...136 Lampang Province...136 Lampun Province...139 Mae Hong Son Province...141 Nakhon Sawan Province...145 Nan Province...151 Phetchabun Province...152 Phitsanulok Province...162 Phayao Province...164 Phrae Province...165 Sukhothai Province...166 Tak Province...167 Uthai Thani Province...170 Uttaradit Province...173 South Thailand...174 Chumphon Province...176 Krabi Province...179 Nakhon Si-Thammarat Province...187 Phang-Nga Province...189 Phatthalung Province...198 Ranong Province...200 Satun Province...201 Songkhla Province...202 Surat Thai Province...203 Trang Province...204 Yala Province...206 5
Foreword This is a picture-guide book because it combines pictures from 47 temple-caves with brief descriptions and directions incl. latitude and longitude of all together some 482 temple-caves in Thailand (of which 160 are classified as possible). The book covers all 76 (77 with Bangkok) provinces separated in to five regions. Very likely some of the possible are not temple-caves and equally likely is that I have not been able to find, catalog and describe all temple-caves. But it is a start and with the possible should allow you to get underway on a fascinating exploration. Although listed in References, and also throughout the text some previous work on caves by selected people has been critical. I want to mention in particular M.Ellis with his maps, guides and surveys of caves across Thailand (in which he has also compiled from numerous historical sources), P. Sidisunthorn et al., with their beautiful book on caves in Northern Thailand and C. Munier with his description of sacred rocks and Buddhist caves in Thailand together with explanations of the meaning of the symbols. This book got started because I had spent hours Spotlight on temple-caves searching for temple-caves in various provinces in Thailand. Unfortunately all I found were either touristy descriptions with mixed content and (very) sketchy directions, caving (speleological) documentation and even these with often confusing directions or academic books and articles (e.g. survey of bat populations), but nothing specifically describing temple-caves. So I decided to collate the information I had (descriptions, directions and locations) and combine it with my own pictures of visited temple-caves as, if nothing more, a starter in the mapping of temple-caves in Thailand. I am going to repeat several times, some elemental and basic considerations: If you are not an experienced caver and in a group avoid exploring (venturing far in to) unknown caves,- temple-caves are religious sites show the same respect you would if visiting any religious site, and do not harm or damage anything especially do not remove anything. With this I welcome you to what I hope will provide you with beautiful sights, insightful experiences and some fascinating exploration. Nils B. Vogt, Dr. philos 6
Introduction Introduction Temple-caves are spiritual sites of worship (prayer and/or meditation) in caves, grottoes or rock-shelters. Temple-caves [also termed cave temples] (large), Grottoes (Small) and rock shelters/overhangs are on the one hand amazing natural phenomena, as in beautifully decorated (sculptured and carved) rock chambers and passages inside hills and mountains and on the other hand they have spiritual and religious context as ornamented and decorated sites for prayer, meditation and as shrines for worship. Temple-caves are important places of cultural, religious and historical value. Temple-caves tie the present and past together. Many temple-caves have extensive decorations, carvings/reliefs, painted images and statues and figures of Buddha and other Deities. Others are simpler temple-caves with much less ornamentation. Some temple-caves are Wats (Thai Buddhist temples) in themselves with residing monks and teaching for novices, others again are used as temporary resting places for wandering monks or during KhaoPansa, the three month rainy period from August to October when monks are required to stay in one place, and some are hermit caves with only one monk residing while others are simply places of worship. Caves with a Buddha or other religious or animistic/spiritual figure or a spirit house mainly to ward off bad spirits or protect visitors to me are not temple-caves. A temple-cave is a cave with a clear spiritual or religious worship context - a place for prayer or meditation. Use of Caves and Temple-Caves in Southeast Asia Caves used as places to live, as religious locations and/or burial sites go back in Southeast Asia to prehistoric times some 10,000 years. Some of the oldest remains of human settlement in Thailand (5-10,000 years old pottery and spiritualistic drawings) are found in caves. The Teak coffin caves 1, found predominantly in north Mae Hong Song province, are believed to have been burial sites for the indigenous Lawo people in Thailand, and are assumed to be 1,500-2,500 years old. Temple-caves 2 as religious sites are found worldwide, but probably nowhere in such richness as in Asia (e.g. India, P.R. China to Japan) and in Southeast Asia (e.g. Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam and Thailand). During prehistoric times Animism and Spiritualism dominated religious beliefs and thus also cave decorations. Hinduism was the first main common 1 Also found in e.g. P.R.China. 2 To avoid multiplicity and defining Large vs. Small I will use the term Temple-Caves as collective throughout. religion across Asia large, and also in Thailand until the end of the first millennium (in e.g. Khmer occupied areas until the 9 th and 10 th Century C.E.). Subsequently Buddhism grew and expanded across Asia to become the main religion. Although predominantly Buddhist many temple-caves in Thailand display images and statues ranging from Animistic/Spiritualism to Buddhism. Whereas the large cave-temples of India, Sri Lanka and (partially) in Myanmar ore often man-made or carved out and built, the temple-caves of Thailand tend to be natural caves sometimes modified. Temple-caves in Thailand date back to the 6 th -8 th Century C.E. at Tham Narai in Saraburi province inscriptions from the 6 th Century C.E. describe links with the Sri Lankan Kingdom of Anuradhapura. At Tham Phottisat (Tham Phra Ngam), also in Saraburi, and in four caves in the Khao Ngu range in Ratchaburi there are Mon (Dvaravati 3 ) bas-reliefs. These 3 The Mon Buddhist Dvaravati Kingdom, in today 7
earliest Siamese (Thai) Buddhist remains reflect the Mahayana Buddhist Tradition dominant at that time (see brief history). In my humble opinion one reason temple-caves are interesting, in addition to their frequently beautiful decorations and religious content, is that they provide a glimpse backward to the past, as religious postures (e.g. sitting feet crossed and soles upwards or sitting in a chair [western style]) signify different meanings. Also the six hand gestures have individual meaning and are auspicious. Another important image is Buddha s Footprint which signals the presence of Buddha. There are a number of other symbols also (e.g., the eight-spoked Dharma Wheel (The wheel of The various postures of Buddha (from Wat Tham Phon Sawan) 8 and historical repositories showing how in Thailand Spiritualism/Animism, Hinduism and Buddhism have become amalgamated during the last thousand years in people s belief system. Since the temple-caves in Thailand also have continued to exist and be used despite the doctrinal centralization of the Buddhist teaching and the formalizing of the Buddhist monkhood and Wat s responsibilities/duties in the first half of the 20 th century C.E. Temple-caves represent an important reference back to the original beliefs of Thai people. The most important figure in a Wat is Buddha. Images of Buddha are considered ideal representations and therefore also have varied considerably throughout history. Buddha can be shown as sitting, standing, walking or reclining. Variations in the four north Central Thailand, was the first documented Civilization in Thailand (See Brief history). Truth), the throne(s) in various forms, the Lotus (ascending to enlightenment), the seven-hooded Naga (the protector), the Lion, etc.). Frequently there is, in the book, reference to Priest s campsites as different from i.e. a Wat or a monastery/bureau of monks. A Wat is a formal and approved designation of a Buddhist temple. To be able to call a religious site a Wat it should satisfy criteria for e.g. land size, number of residing monks, and qualifications of monks and abbot, the teachings and not the least it must be approved. A Priest s campsite is for most practical purposes a Wat without the formal approval and will most often fulfil and perform the same duties and functions as a formal Wat. There can be several reasons why a religious location is a Priest s campsite and not Wat, some may simply choose not to be a Wat to avoid having to follow to the letter the approved teachings and ceremonies
Introduction since they may have slightly different e.g. teachings, meditation routines etc.. Formation of caves Caves in rock are the result of many different types of geological (i.e. long time) processes and can be formed in all types of rock (given time). Best known though are caves in limestone rock which is calcium carbonate remains from living organisms. Such caves also form some of the most dramatic landscapes the karst landscapes 4. Karst type landscapes can also be formed in most rocks, but will then frequently be the result of erosion, e.g. rivers digging as in canyons, not of dissolution and deposition. The main process to for limestone caves is that water, coming from outside the cave with a high ( at m o spheric) carbon dioxide level, and passing across or through the limestone bedrock dissolves the calcium-carbonate in the limestone and it is washed out. Stalactites (the A stalactite in progress one drop by spikes looking one drop down) and stalagmites (the towers going up) are then formed when, in a space with air, water drips off the roof and hits the floor. As the calcium-carbonate enriched water drop elongates (drips) the surface area is enlarged and the excess carbon dioxide is released changing the chemistry of the water 5. Calcium-carbonate is deposited. When the drop 4 Karst landscapes are landscapes formed by dissolution of rock, thus the jagged and steep towers. 5 The process is thus a chemical process of deposition, hits the floor the many more water droplets further release carbon dioxide more calcium-carbonate is deposited. Over millennia these deposits enough to form the spectacular shapes we see in caves. Caves that are still undergoing geological chemical change/ enlargement are called Live caves, while caves where the water-level has sunk below the cave are inactive ( Dead ) caves. Limestone and Karst in Thailand Thailand has a broad presence of limestone estimated to cover 18% of Thailand (1). Broadly geologically the coverage, distribution and present day presence of limestone in Thailand is very much a result of Thailand having been through multiple tectonic folding periods. The result is that limestone rock in Thailand is present in a range of different forms: from karst type landscapes as in north Mae Hong Son province, Khao Sok National Park in Surat Thani province and in Phang-Nga and Krabi provinces, as limestone outcroppings (hills/lower mountain chains) in e.g. the central and southeast regions and to limestone layers and infusions in to sand/silt/clay and Quartz rocks (e.g. The Thanon Thong Chai/Dawna mountain ranges of east Myanmar and west Thailand). The broadest limestone coverage is in the: Western- and northern-most provinces (mainly from Phetchaburi, Ratchaburi and Kanchanaburi provinces north along the border to Myanmar through Tak, Mae Hong Son and in to Chiang Rai province and in to the border regions with Laos PDR). Central mid-section provinces between North Thailand and Isaan (The Phetchabun mountain range) encompassing Nakhon Sawan, Lopburi, Saraburi, Chaiyaphum, Phetchabun and Saraburi provinces up to Loei province). Many caves in this region have evidence of prehistoric use as living quarters. Also this is the region with what I believe is the highest density of temple-caves in Thailand (especially Loei province). Southeast there are hills and shorter mountain chains with pre-dominantly limestone rock in north Rayong and Chanthaburi provinces and there are not a physical process of evaporation. 9
few areas with sandstone and laterite hills/mountains and rivers and streams these have cut overhangs, some approaching caves or grottoes (e.g. along the Mae Khong river on the border to Laos PDR). Some of those caves that are only shelters or overhangs have human remains from 3,500-4,000 years ago. The picture-guide book The picture-guide combines A) my own visited temple-caves and my pictures with brief descriptions (the picture book part), together with B) directions to these and other named known temple-caves (temple-caves I have not visited, but have a 95+% confidence are thus), and with C) a selected set of other possible temple-caves 6, where I have outlined why I believe possibly/maybe there might be a temple-cave. Temple-cave clusters in Thailand also several temple-caves. South Thailand has three main mountain ranges: in the west the Phuket range from Ranong to Krabi, in the east the Nakhon Si Thammarat range from Surat Thani to Satun and in the south the Sankala Khiri range from Songkhla in to Malaysia. This is extensive if somewhat patchy coverage. The southwestern peninsular provinces of especially western Surat Thani (e.g. Khao Sok National Park), Phang-Nga and Krabi have numerous temple-caves. In addition to the main limestone caves in some I do not believe this book is a comprehensive or full list there are more than 4,000 known caves in Thailand, and some estimates suggest possibly the double that in real numbers. No-one 7 knows how many temple-caves there are. The chapters The book has five main chapters: the central re- 6 The criteria for possible are i) a report of a cave, and ii) a hill/elevation with iii) a Wat/Priests Camp Site compound. Where I deviate from these criteria I have noted why. This does not mean these locations will have temple-caves. 7 As far as I know there has been no attempt at a comprehensive mapping of temple-caves in Thailand although several websites do list partial lists. 10