Issue 5. Asuka Village : Old and New. The best things about Nara, as seen by foreign residents!

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1 奈の 良 Na no Ra Asuka Village : Old and New 良 い所 The best things about Nara, as seen by foreign residents! P3: Shadows of Ancient Asuka P4-: A Trip that Captures the Heart P6: An Eco-Drive around Asuka P7: Hiking with Na no Ra! Asuka: Japan's Spiritual Home Issue

2 What is Na no Ra'? Hi there! We re the Coordinators for International Relations (CIRs) for Nara Prefecture. We work at the International Affairs Division of the Prefectural Government. Our aim is to deepen international exchange between Nara and other countries and help to build bridges between them. Na no Ra is made up of articles about places in the prefecture that we, as foreign residents ourselves, visited and thought would be of interest to both visitors from overseas and members of the local Nara community. We hope it will be of some interest and will serve to help everyone discover the charm that Nara holds! Nara Prefecture's CIRs (from left):. Lee Ho-seon. Tom Heaton. Min Chang. Mouloud Hammoud This Issue s Destination: Asuka Village In this edition of Na no Ra, we visited the village of Asuka: the place that marks the beginnings of Japan as a nation. Along with countless historical and cultural sites, Asuka is also home to some very futuristic technology and facilities. With such modern developments set against a deeply historical backdrop, visiting Asuka truly makes for a fascinating experience Kintetsu Railway Yoshino Line Locations visited: 1 Okadera Temple 2 Nara Pref. Complex of Man yo Culture 3 Ancient Glass Workshop 4 Asukadera Temple Tachibanadera Temple 6 Rent-a-cycle, Michimo 7 Asuka Yumeichi 8 Asuka Yume Hanbaisho 9 Asuka Guesthouse (see pg. 7 for hiking route) Map provided by Asuka Village 2

3 Shadows of Ancient Asuka Asuka was the site of Japan s first capital city, built around 1400 years ago. With temples, a reconstructed ancient glass workshop and more, this village is in many ways a window to Japan s ancient past. Okadera Temple Okadera was founded in the seventh century by the monk Gien. Legend says Gien sealed a dragon in a pond in the temple s tranquil grounds. This is the root of the temple s formal name of ryugaiji, or dragon-lid temple. Stepping through the magnificent gate, it is impossible not to feel the depth of history at Okadera. Okadera's beautiful autumn scenery Map 1 According to the Vice Chief Priest, Okadera carried great meaning for people in the past. It is thought that in ancient times the temple was a centre of Buddhist studies. In addition, the legend of the dragon is said to come from the belief that Gien calmed the local river, thus linking Okadera to the idea of safe water supply in the eyes of local people. This legend also contributes to the modern phenomenon of people visiting the temple to cleanse themselves of impurities. At Okadera, the ancient and modern remain closely intertwined. The temple s main object of worship, a huge clay statue of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, has amazingly remained in place for 1300 years with only a roof to protect it from the elements. Perhaps Okadera really can cleanse impurities and protect from harm? Okadera has linked up with three other temples in Nara (Hasedera, Muro-ji and Abemonjuin) in a project called the Nara- Yamato Four Temple Pilgrimage. The project s multi-lingual homepage contains information relating to the temples and tours around all four (booking necessary, 30 people or more). In addition, Okadera has both QR-code guide services and pamphlets in multiple languages in its temple grounds. The Vice Chief Priest explains that here at Okadera, you can experience both a unique Japanese atmosphere and examples of cultural items that came to Japan from the West via the silk road around 1400 years ago. It s this combination of cultures that makes us want to attract foreign visitors year-old Avalokitesvara Statue (photographs prohibited) So, why not give Okadera a visit and see its dual ancient-modern nature for yourself? The scenery in the autumn is not to be missed! Okadera homepage: (JP only) Nara Yamato Pilgrimage: (JP, EN, CN, KR, FR) Man'yo Cultural Complex The Nara prefectural Complex of Man yo Culture is located in the North of Asuka village. A must visit for those with an interest in history, the complex houses exhibitions of historical documents relating to the man yoshu, the ancient collection of Japanese poetry from which the complex gets its name. Reconstruction of Asuka Period society On the first floor there is a periodicallychanging exhibition that focusses mainly on Japanese artwork. The basement contains exhibits of ancient currency, reconstructions of the lives and clothes of people from the Asuka period 1400 years ago, touch panels where one can interview a government official to learn about his lifestyle, and a corner where one can listen to poems from the man yoshu recited in various styles. Try it for yourself: see, hear, and feel how things were in ancient times, when Japan the country was born. Homepage: Ancient Glass Workshop (JP only) Map 2 Interviewing an official from the 7th century!! Map 3 Since very few documents remain from the Asuka Period, the majority of what we know about the people of ancient Asuka comes from archaeological evidence. Asuka s Ancient Glass Workshop experience is another product of this. According to the instructor, the materials, tools and furnace used by the people of ancient Asuka were uncovered here in an archaeological survey. Experimental archaeological techniques helped reconstruct the method through which the glass was made, and eventually a movement emerged to let people try this for themselves. At present, around 300 people participate in the workshop's glass-making experience every year. Foreign visitors have been known to join in too, with translation often provided by Japanese friends. Materials used to make ancient glass beads Thinking that using an 800 C furnace to make glass would be a rare opportunity even in our home countries, we jumped at the chance to take part. Working in groups of two people, metal poles are used to combine two blobs of molten glass, which are then stretched out and cooled to form a long glass rod. The colour is a green that seems to echo back to ancient times itself. This is then cut up into small pieces and threaded to make an accessory that is truly one-of-a-kind. Although it might be tricky at first, thinking that the process of melting the glass before stretching it out is the same as it was 1400 years ago makes for a truly unforgettable experience. It s certainly worth a try, so book now for one of the workshop s designated experience days! Ancient Glass Workshop Homepage: (JP only) A finished accessory made from ancient glass! Tom Heaton 3

4 A Trip that Captures the Heart The Great Buddha of Asuka Map 4 How does the face of the Buddha here make you feel? Scared, or happy? The Great Buddha Statue of Asuka is like a mirror for the heart: the same statue can appear different depending on how we feel at the time. Japan's Oldest Temple Both the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan and home to its oldest Buddhist statue, Asukadera Temple is the birthplace of Japanese Buddhism. The Great Buddha of Asuka statue was made by the thirdgeneration Korean Tori Busshi on the orders of the Emperor Suiko, who had accepted Buddhism after it arrived in Japan from the Korean peninsula. In celebration, 1 kilograms of gold were sent from the kingdom of Koguryo to the North of the peninsula, which was used to cover the statue. Gazing at the Buddha, one can feel the close link and friendship that was shared between ancient Korea and Japan. The Great Buddha of Asuka is known formally as the Dozo-Shakanyorai-zazo (bronze seated Shakyamuni statue). Completed in 609, the statue has not moved once in 1400 years, despite having survived both a period exposed to the Which one is Smiling? The Two-Faced Stone Tachibanadera's Two-Faced Stone Map elements and a fire. Several scratches are visible, but the fact it has remained in the same place truly is a miracle. It was likely before this very statue that Emperor Suiko and Prince Shotoku Taishi himself joined their hands in prayer. Two Special Features A close look reveals something slightly different about the Great Buddha of Asuka. When I first saw the statue, I wasn t sure if its eyes were open or closed! According to the chief priest of Asukadera, whilst the majority of Buddha statues have eyes that are half-closed, the Asuka Buddha statue has open, almond-shaped eyes. They apparently used to have a blue centre too, Gread Buddha of Asuka statue but this has long been lost to time. The other notable characteristic of the Great Buddha of Asuka is that one can take photos of it. Most temples forbid the photography of their main Buddha statue, The stone in the photo to the left is known as the two-faced stone. As the name suggests, two faces can be seen there: one smiling, one not. Which is which? Find the answer at the end of this article! The two-faced stone is found in Tachibanadera: a temple on top of a small hill in Asuka where Prince Shotoku Taishi is said to have been born. The temple has many other interesting features too. The Ojoin hall, built in 1997, contains 260 different paintings of flowers that were donated by artists from all over Japan. There is also the main statue of Shotoku Taishi and a rather unique statue of a Buddha with its knees drawn up. but at Asukadera this is permitted. The chief priest tells us that the temple has long thought it better that visitors take home their own photos rather than those on sale at the gift shop, if they prefer. For those who wish to take a photograph, please do so as a memento for yourself after you have joined your hands to the Buddha, with a calm mind and in prayer. Let your heart shine through your photo, and a good shot is guaranteed. Asukadera in Modern Times At the time it was built, Asukadera covered lands around 20 times the size it does at present. Nowadays, almost all its buildings have disappeared and the surrounding area is farmland. Nevertheless, this was the place where Japan first accepted the foreign religion of Buddhism almost 1400 years ago, and the starting point for the country as a whole. The roots of Buddhism run deep in Japan, and this is seen in the everyday lives of Japanese people. Asukadera remains largely unchanged from Japan s ancient past. Stop by if you wish to see this for yourself....and finally, could you figure out which face was which? Answer: the right side is smiling, the left isn t! Ceiling of Ojoin Hall 4

5 Photos of Asuka by Bike! Scenery Protected by the Law Getting off the Kintetsu line train at Asuka station, one is greeted with a tranquil farmland scene. The westernstyle houses and apartments we are accustomed to are nowhere to be seen. Around the time Asuka was threatened with advancing urbanization, a law was created specifically to protect its landscape and cultural sites. The result is a view that has likely not changed much at all since ancient times. So, how about taking some photos to remember your trip to Asuka? On our visit, we rented bicycles from the front of Asuka station to get around: perfect for getting to places a little too far to walk to! Get yourself a bike and give it a go. Rules on Bike Riding in Japan Ensure you follow Japan s traffic rules whenever you ride a bike! Please pay particular attention to the following three points. 1.One person per bicycle 2.No earphones 3.No phones 9 10 To Kashihara Jingu-mae Station Amakashi no Oka Hill 9 Grave of Soga 8 no Iruka Man'yo Cultural Centre 8 11 To Asuka Station 1 2 Tachibanadera Temple 3 4 Okamachi 7 Okadera Temple Lee Ho-Seon

6 An Eco-Drive around Asuka For those who might find walking or biking around Asuka a little difficult, a solution exists in Michimo : a rentable electric car that I used to visit Asuka s numerous souvenir shops and a guesthouse where one can experience a traditional Japanese home. Eco-Friendly Michimo Michimo: a hi-tech, eco-friendly electric car Map 6 Michimo, with its adorable electric cars, is located right in front of Asuka station. Anyone who has a license that permits them to drive in Japan can rent one quite easily, and their extra seat makes Michimo a recommendation for couples too! After a careful explanation from staff, we set off. Michimo is even suitable for those who aren t sure where to go: cars are equipped with a Michimo Navi tablet that is packed with tourist information. Although Michimo cars may look a little like toys, they have the same power as a regular car and travel at the same speed, so please drive safe! Fasten your seatbelt, we re off! also on sale, including kaki-no-ha sushi, kodaimai rice and more, making the place a recommendation for those who want to try traditional Nara cuisine. At the inhouse restaurant I tried the special local hotpot, Asuka-nabe, which is made using milk and available through the winter months of December-early March. From March onwards, a kodaimai set platter is on offer. The shop s owner, Ms. Okamoto, who always welcomes her customers warmly, tells us We want visitors to Asuka to be relaxed here and feel the nostalgia of the place. Next, at the Asuka Yume Hanbaisho, there are all kinds of locally-produced fruits and vegetables on sale. The Asuka Ruby Strawberries are a personal recommendation! Puddings, rusks, kodaimai rice and jams and more are available too: the last of these is very popular with foreign visitors! The assistant manager tells us: 'We hope everyone can come and try our delicious fruit. We'll even do our best to explain in English!' Asuka Guesthouse Exterior How about a stay in the Asuka Guesthouse? Originally aimed at foreign visitors to Asuka, from the outside, the guesthouse retains the beauty of its roots as a traditional Japanese home. On the inside however, the mix of classical appearance and modern amenities is sure to be a fascinating combination for foreign visitors. Of all the facilities available - the shared kitchen, lounge, showers, dormitory, and single rooms in what was once the storehouse - my favourite was definitely the dormitory. It really felt like a place where one make friends with people from different countries and have fun! Mr. Matsumoto, one of the guesthouse s staff, recommends booking in advance and having dinner there too, as all the vegetables are local produce and come straight from the market. He tells us We d like it if people could stay here and feel the mystery of Asuka itself: this is where Japan s ancient capital used to be, and being out in the country, one can experience a very different side to Japan than the big cities of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. Get nostalgic and make the Asuka Guesthouse the base of your trip! *N.B. Parking is not available at Asuka Guesthouse. Asuka Souvenirs! Map 78 Driving Michimo, we headed to the Asuka Yumeichi and Asuka Yume Hanbaisho souvenir shops. At Yumeichi, we find pendants made with ancient glass, bookmarks, and ceramics made by local people, all of which are popular with foreign visitors. A number of local food products are With Mr. Fukui, manager of Asuka Yumeichi Traditional living room Dormitory Asuka Yumeichi's Asuka Nabe Platter The local produce on offer at Asuka Yume Hanbaisho Asuka Guesthouse Map 9 So, you ve finished your day in Asuka and are wondering where to stay. Single rooms in the former storehouse Mouloud Hammoud 6

7 Hiking with Na no Ra! Having been Japan's political centre in the mid sixth-century, Asuka is home to numerous historical sites. Rice terraces make for tranquil scenery, and numerous unique customs remain too. For this issue's hiking trip, we set off from around Ishibutai Kofun and headed south along the Asuka River. Try it yourself and rediscover the traditional scenery Asuka has to offer. Distance: Approx 4km/1hr (one way). No form of public transport is available at the end of the route. Hiking Map 4 Inabuchi Rice Terraces Asuka River West Observatory 2 Iwaido Observatory 6 Ozuna *Map based on map of Asuka on Asuka Historical National Government Park Park homepage. 1 Ishibutai Kofun Ishibutai Kofun in the Autumn 1 Ishibutai Kofun East Observatory 3 Asuka Inabuchi Palace Site Access to Ishibutai Kofun : 40 mins walk from Kintetsu Asuka Station, or take the Akakame bus from the station and get off at 'Ishibutai'. 7 Ryufukuji Temple 8 Grave of Minabuchi no Shoan Our hiking trip starts from the Ishibutai Kofun. This kofun (burial mound) is one of the largest of its kind and the symbol of Asuka. Not far from the stone structure, the contrast of evergreens and maple trees with the balanced landscape is a beautiful sight; one soon feels awash with the somehow holy atmosphere. It is not clear who the burial mound was built for, but it is said that the ancient nobleman Soga no Umako is one possibility. The name of the structure, which literally means 'stone stage', is said to originate in the legend that a fox once disguised itself as a beautiful woman and danced on top of the stone. For me, as a Chinese, this reminds me strongly of the Strange Tales of Liaozhai', a collection of strange stories written during the Qing Dynasty. From a modern perspective, the structure feels more like a kind of stone outhouse than a burial mound! The inside too feels as if one has stepped into another dimension. The Ishibutai is definitely one place not to miss if you ever visit Asuka. Asuka: Japan's Spiritual Home 9 Asukakawakaminiimasuusutakihimenomikotojinja Shrine Inside the chamber 2 Iwaido Observatory Heading up a small hill to this viewing point, the rows of trees, moss and logs make for a mysterious atmosphere. The view at the top, looking down over rice terraces, is truly unforgettable. 3 Asuka Inabuchi Palace Site The birds of the pools of the Asuka river, how peaceful they are, with hearts like ours At the site of the remains of the Asuka Inabuchi Palace, there is a memorial stone inscribed with the above poem from the man'yoshu, about the Asuka River. This beautiful scene was described back then, all those years ago, in the form of man'yoshu poetry. 4 Inabuchi Rice Terraces The scenery of the Inabuchi Area, which has been selected as one of 'Japan's Hundred Best Villages', reminds me of the Qinling Mountains in my home province of Shaanxi. The rice terraces are beautifully layered, and the sight of the village on the mountainside made me feel nostalgic for home. In the autumn too, the contrast between the earing rice and red spider lilies is truly stunning. Village and Rice Terraces Asuka River On our hike, we walked to the bottom of the Asuka River. The clear refreshing flow of the river, mysterious waterfalls, and colours of the maples by the riverside are a spectacle that has remained unchanged since ancient times. The River's Autumn Scenery Guides along the way! Downriver Further down the river, a bridge appeared 6 Ozuna ahead. Hanging above was something rather unexpected: a bundle of straw made into the shape of a male genitalia. Known as the Ozuna (male rope), this is a kind of sacred rope used to prevent evil entering Photo: Asukakyo Tourism a specific area. Every year Association on January 1th, a festival is held here to pray for fertility and a good harvest. 7 Ryufukuji Temple Up the Asuka River in a tranquil village is the temple of Ryufukuji. The chief priest and his wife gave us a warm welcome. The temple's simple stone tower, first erected in 71, has remained in the same place since 1260, and has recently been attracting the attention of researchers. The name inscribed on the tower, King Takeno', is thought to be related to the ancient royal family of Nagaya. The reason for the tower's construction is yet to be firmly established, but items considered precious at the time are believed to have been sealed inside. The simple tower almost seems to be smiling, looking down on and protecting the area. Why not pay a visit and see this remarkable piece of history for yourself? 8 Grave of Minabuchi no Shoan I doubt many people will be familiar with the name of Minabuchi no Shoan. A Buddhist monk, in 608, under orders from Empress Suiko, he was sent to Sui Dynasty China to study. He lived in China for 32 years and on his return to Japan taught what he had learned to others. Minabuchi lived on the opposite bank of the Asuka River from Inabuchi in a place called Asakaze, and a famous story exists where Prince Nakano- Oe and Nakatomi no Katamari met in their teacher Minabuchi's home to discuss their plan to assassinate Soga no Iruka. 9 A Shrine with a Long Name... Near the Asuka River is a shrine with a name that is long even by Japanese standards: As ukakawakaminiimasuusutakihime nomikoto-jinja. This mysterious shrine has no main hall, and the mountain to the back of the shrine is the main object of worship. This is a remnant of the mountain worship that is so unique to Japan, so make sure you stop by if you ever have the chance. ここから上がる Min Chang 7

8 Note from the Editors 'Na no Ra' would like to thank the people of Asuka Village and all those who assisted in the creation of this issue: The Asukakyo Tourism Association, Asuka Guesthouse, Asukadera Temple, Asuka Yumeichi, Asuka Village Chiiki- Shinko Kosha, Asuka Yume Hanbaisho, Okadera Temple, Tachibanadera Temple, the Nara Prefectural Complex of Man'yo Culture, and Ryufukuji Temple. 'Na no Ra' Published by:international Affairs Division, Office of the Governor, Nara Prefectural Government Date of Publication:February 2016 For opinions on or questions relating to this publication, please contact: Department of International Affairs, Nara Prefectural Government, Noborioji-cho 30, Nara City, Nara, TEL: