Mention Pampanga and gastronomic pleasures immediately come to mind.

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Marjorie Horn
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History Speaks Through Pampanga s Churches Mention Pampanga and gastronomic pleasures immediately come to mind. But Pampanga keeps plenty of secrets beyond the kitchen table.

1 History Speaks Through Pampanga s Churches Mention Pampanga and gastronomic pleasures immediately come to mind. But Pampanga keeps plenty of secrets beyond the kitchen table. For old world junkies like me, this progressive province in Central Luzon also opens to remarkable centuries-old churches, spread across 19 municipalities. Flanked by navigable rivers including Betis River and Lubao River, Pampanga became a strategic target for the Spaniards in spreading Catholicism during the 1500s to the late 1800s. After establishing pueblos in native villages, the Spanish government moved on to the next item on their conquistador list: erecting Catholic churches. Immerse yourself in Pampanga s rich history as we take a walk through four of its 23 heritage churches. St. Augustine Church Lubao

A forty-minute tranquil drive past the capital of San Fernando brings us to the oldest and largest church in Pampanga. Situated from the street across the San Nicolas I plaza in Lubao, St.

3 A forty-minute tranquil drive past the capital of San Fernando brings us to the oldest and largest church in Pampanga. Situated from the street across the San Nicolas I plaza in Lubao, St. Augustine Church was originally constructed in Santa Catalina in 1572, a year after the founding of the Philippines oldest Catholic church in Manila. Like Spanish citadels built during the colonial era, St. Augustine s make consists of bricks, sand, and egg whites (yes, egg whites!) as binder, a rather perplexing fact as we gaze at the adjoining 50-foot belfry. Despite being shelled by the Japanese during World War II, the five-storey bell tower remained, prettified by stained glass art of crosses and saints. But Lubao Church s historical surprises don t end there. This neo-classical orange brick church also prides itself as the site of the 1910 baptism of former President Diosdado Macapagal, a sanctuary for anti-spanish Philippine revolutionaries 12 years prior, and a hospital for wounded American soldiers in Betis Church Betis, Guagua One of Pampanga s most popular baroque churches, St. James the Apostle Church, or simply Betis Church, is often packed with crowds and celebrations at times too many for one s liking. Disquiet, however, turns to awe once the bedlam has subsided and you step into the church s muted halls, surrounded by pillars, walls, and high ceilings painted with stunning Michaelangelo- esque murals. The 18 th century murals, handcrafted by celebrated national artists Simon Flores and Victor Ramos, earned it a place on NCCA s National Cultural Treasure list and the epithet as

4 Asia s Sistine Chapel. Donning a fort-like build from hard wood and concrete, Betis Church has withstood numerous fires since its construction in 1607 and was, in fact, designed to remain intact against seditions. The chapel also features intricate retablos and wood carvings, both testament to the exceptional hand carving skills of Betis artisans who are world-renowned for their ornate furniture. Also on site are an 1800s artesian well, a rare tree donated by Betis-raised journalist Randy David, and the Museo Ning Betis, which details the colorful history of Betis. Immaculate Conception Church Plaza Burgos, Guagua Parked in a glum corner of the bustling Captain Sonco Freedom Square, Guagua Church seems to be more of an adventitious structure than one created by need. Its pristine white walls, intricate shell and plant motifs, and colossal steel dome are often overshadowed by the chaos of this first-class municipality. Beneath the sound of hawkers and jeepneys, history tells otherwise. The baroque church, named after its patron saint, was built in 1590 by Augustinian friars. It was first built by then-parish priest Father Jose Duque, who is noted for his diplomatic role in pacifying anti-government rebels in Pampanga. Much of the church s Ionic interiors remain unaltered since its renovation in Not to be missed as well is the beautiful altar crafted by Pampanga-born sculptor and Presidential Merit Awardee Willy Layug.

San Guillermo Church Bacolor Treading Bacolor, a small town 90 kilometers west of Mt. Pinatubo, the mind is heady with images of truncated houses and a 1576 church half-buried in ashes.

5 San Guillermo Church Bacolor Treading Bacolor, a small town 90 kilometers west of Mt. Pinatubo, the mind is heady with images of truncated houses and a 1576 church half-buried in ashes. San Guillermo Church today still flaunts the features it had after its 1764 renovation However, many of these features are shrunk from the original 40-feet height to a mere 19. Windows appear as half-circles; roofs like triangles jutting out of the grass. Some doors, including that in the adoration chapel, now require visitors to duck down upon entry. The once two-storey bell tower, home to several bats, had been reduced to a mere storey, with the entrance completely gone and redevised. Beneath the backyard of this baroque church lies the town s cemetery. It had served its purpose for 250 years until Pinatubo s Plinian eruption. The names of the deceased, along with important artifacts of San Guillermo are now home in the in-house museum, Museo de Bacolor - the retablos of which were painstakingly dug up by locals from beneath 12 feet of dense lahar. While 20 years has passed since dense volcanic mudflow razed Bacolor, the devastating legacy of Mt. Pinatubo remains. A similar legacy is shared by all of Pampanga s heritage churches.

6 For beyond their aesthetic appeal and impressive labels such as baroque, neo-classical and National Cultural Treasure, these historic structures continue to draw droves of people for what they symbolize. They are the emblem and legacy of the persistence of the Filipino spirit, of renewed life, after and inspite revolutions, societal and land reforms, and nature s vindictive hands. How to Get There: Via private vehicle: Drive through NLEX and exit at San Fernando. Drive east of the rotunda through the Olongapo-Gapan (OG) Road, toward the town of Dolores. After Dolores, follow the signage to Bacolor town proper to get to San Guillermo Church. To access the other churches, take the OG Road and follow this sequence: Bacolor Church, Betis Church, Guagua Church, and Lubao Church. There are signs pointing from the OG Road to the said churches. Via public commute: Board a San Fernando-bound bus from any terminal in Manila. Take a jeepney with the signage Guagua/Lubao/Betis at the SM City Pampanga PUJ terminal. Past Dolores, alight at Bacolor; a green sign marked To Bacolor Town Proper. Tricycles and jeepneys are available from Bacolor to other churches. Best time to visit: Anyday, except Mondays (Catholic churches are closed on Mondays) There are stores close by, selling food and beverage. Other optional activities: Explore the on-site museums of Betis and Bacolor.

A Selection of Philippine Church Facades

A Selection of Philippine Church Facades 2009 SIMBAHAN.NET www.simbahan.net Concept, layout, text, design and photos by Estan Cabigas www.estancabigas.com Cover: Pediment detail of the church in Lucban,