1 Report on Bagan Metropolis Conference Yangon and Bagan, 10-14 July 2017 Elizabeth Moore Figure 1 Paintings in the 12th century CE Abeyadana temple, planning on arrival at Bagan, viewing murals at the Abeyadana * All photographs taken at Bagan by the post-conference group Introduction The Bagan Metropolis Conference celebrated the Alphawood Foundation and the SOAS Alphawood Scholarships through new perspectives on the role of this ancient Buddhist kingdom of the 9 th to 13 th century CE. The tone of the conference was set by the Keynote speech of Dr Heather Elgood underlining the shared traditions between the Buddhist culture of Bagan and that of North East India. These connections were at the heart also of the Alphawood Scholars presentations. All brought innovative ways to frame the art and religion of Bagan. The SOAS scholarships are a unique opportunity for study focused on ancient Buddhist art as virtually all degree awarding scholarships abroad being for contemporary and social studies topics. Thus, the Alphawood Scholarships are truly an extraordinary boon in beginning the process of educational transformation in this country so deeply deprived by sanctions against military rule for many years. The Alphawood Alumni are the first hope for fresh perspectives on the extraordinary Buddhist art of Myanmar. Bagan, with its preservation of unrivalled paintings, sculpture and architecture of the 9 th to 13 th century CE, epitomizes the apex of this religious heritage within the wider ancient Buddhist world. The Bagan Metropolis Conference included senior professors and past, present and future Alphawood Scholars. The contrast between the elders close readings of
2 ancient inscriptions and the new generation s thinking on the meaning of the images and text, highlighted how the Alphawood Scholars are respecting their own traditions whilst bringing fresh ideas to the perception of Bagan. As detailed in the summary of presentations below, the Alphawood group s papers were set within two days of papers on the history, art and heritage of Bagan. Following this, our group went to Bagan where we continued often quite vigorous discussions on the meaning and context of the ancient site. Figure 2 Terracotta jataka plaque 11th century Peik Leit', on site at the 13th century Dhammayazika and 12th century Sulamani temple 10 July 2017 (Day One) The conference opened with Welcome Addressees by the Rector of the University of Foreign Languages, Dr Kyi Shwin, Dr Khin Lay Soe on behalf of SEAMEO CHAT and Prof. Elizabeth Moore on behalf of SOAS. All highlighted the key role that the Alphawood bequest has made in enabling new scholarship and research questions on the ancient Buddhist kingdom of Bagan. The Keynote Lecture, The Significance of Pala in the development of Bagan Sculpture by Dr. Heather Elgood, MBE, Course Director, Post Graduate Diploma Programme of Asian Arts, SOAS underlined the fluid and complex content at Bagan and its position in the wider Buddhist world of the 12 th to 13 th century.
3 Panel One (Bagan: Historical Development) Chair: U Tun Aung Chain (Director (Rtd) SEAMEO CHAT) The Historical Development panel papers used stone inscriptions, paintings and monuments at Bagan period to show the role of the private donors in the construction of major monasteries in the eastern part of Bagan in the 13 th century. Dr Toe Hla s paper Study of the Inscriptions of Anantasura detailed the bequest not only of monastic areas and stupas, but rice lands, gardens, toddy palm groves and domesticated animals to sustain it. This contrasted with rivalries between the Sangha and the king in regions beyond Bagan in the 14 th century, the focus of Study of the Pitu Samgha Raja Inscription by Dr. Mo Mo Thant, History Department, University of Distance Education. For both periods, the complicated system of balancing lunar and solar year lengths was detailed in The Concept of the Calendar in the Bagan Period by Daw Aye Thandar Lwin of the History Department, University of Distance Education. Myanmar Costume Style in the Bagan Period by Dr Aye Aye Than from Lokaw University showed the contrast between domestic and imported textiles in depicting rank and style of the royal circle versus commoners at Bagan. Panel Two (SOAS Alphawood Scholarship Alumni) Chair: Daw Khin Ma Ma Mu, Prof. Archaeology, Dagon University (Rtd) Three of the Alphawood Alumni presented papers focused on Bagan: The Crowned image of the Buddha by Swe Zin Myint, The Significance of the Buddha Footprint in the Bagan Metropolis by Su Latt Win, and the different meanings of alcohol consumption in ancient Bagan in The Tradition of Drinking Saiy (Se) and the Buddhist perception of Surameraya restriction in the Bagan period by Saw Tun Lynn. One Alumni branched out with Comparison of Depictions of Nivana in China and Bagan, c. 6-13 th century AD by Win Myat Aung. One Alumni, Thuya Aung, was unable to join due to health, but designed the conference bag, a great success.
4 Figure 3 Brahma at the 12th century Nanphaya, and the group discussions at other Bagan sites Panel Three (Bagan: Art and Archaeology) Chair: Dr. San Shwe (Prof. / Head, Dept. of Archaeology, YU) The Art and Archaeology panel included papers on the epigraphy and iconography providing new views on the rulers and art of Bagan. A Brief Study on the Images of Brahma in Buddhist Art with Special Reference to Bagan Period by Min Han, Independent Scholar and Thein Lwin, Department of Archaeology concluded that it is Brahma of the upper realm of Brahma-loka not the Hindu Brahmin that is found at Bagan. King Saw Lu and Pagan s wider world by Dr. Lilian Handlin, Harvard University, debunked the chronicle s belittling of King Saw Lu, showing how his inscriptions, architecture and painting connected to the wider Buddhist world of the 12 th century. The Characteristics of Bodhisattva in Bagan Period by Khaing Myitzu Wai, Dagon University presented a rich variety of paintings and sculpture, some of the future Buddha, others of Avaloketisvara and unnamed dvarapala. The contrast between the weapons-bearing images of the early period and their absence in later phases of Bagan was followed up by site visits during our post-conference trip. The trip also allowed us to find the examples of village life on terracotta plaques and paintings described in Secular Evidence Extracted from the Visual Arts of Bagan by Dr. Pyiet Pyo Kyaw, Yangon University. The final paper stressed the development of new visual schemes following Bagan, Importance and role of Bagan in the history of painting in Burma: 15th to early 19th c. Buddhist narrative murals by Dr. Cristophe Munier-Gaillard, Independent Scholar.
5 Figure 4 Recently uncovered 12th century murals at the Ananda, group discussions at the Sulamani and Abeyadana Panel Four (Bagan: Current Issues) (1:30-4:30) Chair: Daw Nanda Hmun (Permanent Secretary (Retired) (Ministry of Religious Affairs and Culture) The final panel highlighted the changes and problems at Bagan today. Overview of Stakeholders from mechanism for balancing civil and religious interests vs current issues and negotiates heritages by Dr. Nanda Hmun reflected plainly the frustration many feel in management of the complex set of stakeholders. Heritage Activism in Singapore by Dr. Terence Chong, Deputy Director, ISEAS Yusof Ishak Institute, narrated the struggle for heritage preservation in the development-oriented city. Bagan: Values and Challenges in the World heritage Process by Daw Ohnmar Myo, Cultural Officer, UNESCO Yangon profiled the hiatus between national and local levels of management at Bagan in the years of the new government. The final two papers moved from overall challenges to the village level. The Changes of Food and Its culture in Anauk Phwa Saw, Bagan by Dr. Mya Mya Khin, Head, Anthropology Department, Yangon University showed how repeated earthquakes have damaged soil fertility, impacting on family social life at meal times. Social and Religious Activities Related to Monks Involvement in Bagan Ancient Monasteries by Dr. Lwin Lwin Mon, Mandalay University profiled a privately sponsored medical clinic run through one of
6 the 19 th century monasteries in Old Bagan. Both the final two papers highlighted attempts to adapt traditional practices such as food preparation and provision of daily food for monks in the changing environmental and social climate of the Bagan heritage area managed by the Department of Archaeology, Ministry of Religious Affairs and Culture. Figure 5 Encroachment by new monastery wall, 11th century lion at the Shwezigon stupa Field Trip to Bagan 12-14 July Our group of four teachers Dr Elgood and myself, the Head of Anthropology at Yangon University where an annex building has enabled the E.Moore Collection library of Southeast Asian art to be housed, and the Director SEAMEO CHAT the Alphawood Alumni and three promising future applicants for the Scholarship departed for Bagan on 12 July. From the moment of our arrival until evening, the Alumni plus group took us from temple to temple pointing out the topics they had presented on and much more on the history and iconography of the vast site (c. 78 sq.km.). We also were delighted to meet Veronica Grisenko, former student of both Dr Elgood and myself, owner of the Black Elephant lacquer shop in Bagan. The first evening after dark we entered the early 12 th century Abeyadana temple, where the splendid murals came to life with our torches. The second day we crossed the Ayeyarwaddy to one of the founding relic stupas of the 11 th century and the final day in the afternoon to discuss the pieces in the Bagan Museum. The trip was more than the highlight for the impromptu comments of Dr. Heather Elgood as she encountered new images and sites at Bagan and connected them to North East India. Taking us back to her opening Keynote speech, she highlighted on site the fluid connections between the two regions. Bagan and Myanmar art is in many ways set apart from the other mainland countries of Southeast Asia. In the on-site examples at Bagan, the vast temple compounds and outstanding paintings and architecture brought the ancient Buddhist culture to life bringing the conference to a successful close. With thanks all around, the group returned to Yangon.
7 Figure 6 Newly uncovered 12th century murals at the Ananda, crossing the Ayeyarwaddy River, at the Sulamani with Alumni Veronica G., and sending off at the Nyaung U Bagan airport