Index. Lonely Planet Publications 1225

Lonely Planet Publications 1225 Index A Abhaneri 183 accommodation 1138-41, see also individual locations language 1201-2, 1204-5 Achalgarh 230 activities 105-18, see also individual activities acute mountain sickness (AMS) 1198 Adalaj Wav 737 Adivasis 68, 168, 663, 692 Agartala 634-6, 634 Agatti Island 1037 Agra 399-412, 421-3, 402, 404 accommodation 410-12 attractions 403-10 drinking 421 emergency 401 entertainment 421 food 412-21 history 399 internet access 401 medical services 401 money 401 shopping 421-2 tourist information 401 tours 410 travel to/from 422 travel within 422 Agra Fort 407, 408 Ahmad Shah Durrani 46 Ahmedabad 727-37, 728, 730 accommodation 733-4 attractions 729-32 food 734-5 history 727 internet access 727 medical services 727 money 728 shopping 735-6 tourist information 729 tours 733 travel to/from 736 travel within 737 AIDS 63 Aihole 949 air pollution 103, 1197 air travel to/from India 1173-6 within India 1178-9 Aizawl 632-3 Ajanta 825-8 Ajatasatru 581 Ajmer 192-5, 194 Akbar 44, 408 Alang 748 Alappuzha 999-1004, 1000 Albuquerque, Alfonso de 43 Alchi 321 alcohol 87-8 Alexander the Great 39 Allahabad 434-8, 435, 838 Alleppey, see Alappuzha Almora 495-7, 496 Along 624-5 altitude sickness 1198 Alwar 187-8 Amaravathi 976 Amber 182 Amchi 375 Amdavad, see Ahmedabad amoebic dysentery 1196-7 Amritsar 268-75, 269, 10 Amte, Murlidhar Devidas 830 Anandpur Sahib 266-7 Andamanese people 1123 Andaman Islands 1120-37, 1121 Andhra Pradesh 954-79, 955 festivals 956 food 418-19 volunteering 1165-6 Anegundi 943 animals 96-8, see also individual animals Anjuna 882-5, 883 antelope 97, 677, 717 ants 721 Apatani people 624 Araku Valley 974 Arambol 887-9, 888 architecture 78-9 area codes, see inside front cover Armanath 287 arts 75-81, see also music, painting courses 1074, 1143 Arunachal Pradesh 623-7 Aryan tribes 39 Ashoka, Emperor 40, 41 ashrams 114-16 Beatles, the 478 Gandhi, Mahatma 497 Haridwar 473 Puttaparthi 979 Rishikesh 477 Sabarmati 732 Sevagram 830-1 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari 988 Sri Aurobindo 1074 Sri Ramana 1070 Assam 611-23 ATMs 1151-2 attar 1160 Attari 275-6 Auli 485 Aurangabad 817-21, 818 Aurangzeb 45, 46, 404 Auroville 1078-9 autorickshaws 1182-3 avian flu 1194 Ayodhya 432-4 ayurveda 116, 993 courses 174, 1074-5 Delhi 138 Goa 879 Gujarat Ayurved University 767 Jaipur 173 Kerala 1017 Mysore 917-18 Panchakarma 1033 B Babur 44 Badami 946-8, 947 Baga 877-82, 878 Bageshwar 498-9 Bahadur Shah Zafar 47, 48-9 Bahmani sultanate 45 Baijnath 383 Bakkali 537 baksheesh 1152-3 Balaji 183 Balasore 667 Baliguda 662 Banasura 618 Banbassa 500 Bandhavgarh National Park 719-20 Banerjee, Rajah 547 Bangalore, see Bengaluru Bangaram Island 1037

1226 Index (B) Bangladesh border crossings 545, 636, 641 baolis 731, 732, 738 baoris 183, 204 Bara Shigri 392 bargaining 1145, 1152-3, 1161 Baripada 666 Barkul 660 Barmer 248 Baroda, see Vadodara Baroli 209 Basgo 320 Bastar 721-4 bathrooms 1140 bats 97 Bavikonda 974 beaches Anjuna 882-5, 883 Baga 877-82, 878 Benaulim 891-4, 892 Calangute 877-82, 878 Candolim 873-7, 874 Cavelossim 894 Chapora 885, 886 Cherai 1026-7 Chowara 992 Colva 891-4, 892 Fort Aguada 873-7, 874 Havelock Island 1132-4, 1133 Kollam 997, 997, 9 Little Andaman 1137 Neil Island 1134-5 Palolem 895-7, 895 Pulinkudi 992 Samudra 992 Sinquerim 873-7, 874 Vagator 885, 886 Varca 894 Varkala 993-6, 994 bears 97, 409, 831, 926, 1108, 1118 Beatles, the 478 begging 65 Bekal 1035-6 Belur 924 Benaulim 891-4, 892 Bengaluru 901-13, 902, 905 accommodation 907-9 attractions 904-6 drinking 910 entertainment 911 food 909-10 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages history 901-2 internet access 903 medical services 904 money 904 shopping 911 tourist information 904 tours 907 travel to/from 911-12 travel within 913 Berhampore 539 Betla (Palamau) National Park 583-4 Bhagsu 380 Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh 849 bhangra 265 Bharatpur 183-5, 184 Bharmour 388-9 Bharuch 742 Bhavnagar 746-8, 747 Bhimbetka 695 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 667-8 Bhojpur 694-5 Bhopal 689-94, 690, 693, 695 Bhubaneswar 645-51, 647 Bhuj 770-3, 771 Bhujodi 773 Bhuntar 349 Bhutan border crossings 545, 1176-7 bicycle travel, see cycling Bidar 952-3 Bihar 566-84, 567 festivals 570 food 416 volunteering 578 Bijaipur 213 Bijapur 949-52, 950 Bikaner 249-53, 250 Billing 383 Bir 383 bird-watching 97, 98, 105-6 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 667-8 Calimere (Kodikkarai) Wildlife & Bird Sanctuary 1083 Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary 652 Kanha National Park 717-19 Karanji Lake Nature Park 917 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 185 Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary 766 Kumarakom Bird Sancturay 1005 Little Rann Sanctuary 775 Mumbai 790-1 Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary 737 Nameri National Park 618 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 925-7 Pench Tiger Reserve 716-17 Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary 921 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 Satpura National Park 701 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 266 Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 1012-13 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1065 birth 59-61 Bishnupur 537-8 bison 1006, 1013 boars 757 boat tours 108 boat travel to/from India 1178 within India 1180, 1183 Bodhgaya 576 Bodhidharma 1067 Bollywood 788 Bombay, see Mumbai Bomdila 625 books 23 bird-watching 98 culture 59, 63, 64 food 84, 86 health 1193 history 39, 42, 44, 46, 48, 55, 58 Mumbai 782 photography 1153 religion 69-70, 71 travel 24 border crossings 1176-8 Bangladesh 545, 636, 641 Bhutan 545, 1176-7 Nepal 456, 499, 545, 558, 574, 1177 Pakistan 275-6, 1177-8 Bose, Subhas Chandra 516 Brahma 68 Brahman 68 bread 84-5 British rule 47-9, 50 Brokpa people 323 Buddha Jayanti 26 Buddhism 39-58, 72, 374, 552, 971 itineraries 36 meditation 116-17 buffalo 935 Bundi 203-7, 205 bus travel 1180-1, 1183 bush walking, see trekking business hours 1141 butterflies 97 Bylakuppe 930

Index (C) 1227 C Calangute 877-82, 878 Calcutta, see Kolkata Calicut, see Kozhikode camel safaris 106, 8 Bikaner 253 Jaisalmer 246-7 Pushkar 196 camels 199, 246-7, 251, 253, 8 Candolim 873-7, 874 Cannanore, see Kannur canyoning 108 Cape Cormorin, see Kanyakumari carbon offset schemes 1174 carbon-monoxide poisoning 1139 car travel 1181-2 carpets 1155-6 caste system 39, 61 cathedrals, see churches Cauvery Delta 1083 caves 108 Ajanta 825-8, 826 Aurangabad 819 Badami 946-7 Bhaja 845 Bhimbetka 695 Diu 751 Edakal 1033 Elephanta Island 809 Ellora 822-5, 824 Kanheri 810 Karla 845 Khandagiri 649 Lohani 711 Mawsmai 641 Pandav 700 Pandav Leni 816 Pataleshvara 848 Tiger 1059 Udaigiri 699 Udayagiri 649 Vijayawada 975 cell phones 1162 chai 87 Chail 342 Chalukya empire 42 Chamba 386-8, 387 Chamba Valley 383-9 Champaner 741-2 Chand, Nek 260 Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary 652 Chandigarh 256-65, 258 accommodation 260-1 attractions 257-60 drinking 263-4 entertainment 264 food 261-3 medical services 257 tourist information 257 travel to/from 264 travel within 264-5 Chandipur 667 Chandor 891 Chandra, Vikram 24 Chapora 885-6, 886 Chauhan, Prithviraj 41 Chemrey 328 Chennai 1042-58, 1044-5 accommodation 1051-2 activities 1050 attractions 1047-50 courses 1050-1 drinking 1054 Egmore 1047-9, 1051, 1052, 1053, 1048 entertainment 1054-5 food 1052-4 history 1043-6 internet access 1046 medical services 1046 money 1046 shopping 1055 tourist information 1046-7 tours 1051 travel to/from 1055-8 travel within 1058 Triplicane 1051-2, 1053, 1048 Chennamangalam 1027 Cherrapunjee (Sohra) 641 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus) 788 chhatris 225, 676, 679 Chhattisgarh 669-70, 720-4, 670 festivals 671 volunteering 1166 Chidambaram 1079-80, 1080 child labour 63-4, 1156 children, travel with 1141-2 activities 1142 attractions 1142 food 1142 health 1142 Chilika Lake 659-60 Chiling 319-20 chinkaras 97 Chiriya Tapu 1132 chitals 97, 831, 926 Chitrakote Falls 723-4 Chitrakut 438-9 Chittorgarh 210-13, 212 Chola empire 41, 42 Christianity 72-3 Christmas 27, 843 Chumbi Valley 595 churches Armenian Church 514 Basilica of Bom Jesus 871 Church of Bom Jesus 743 Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception 866 Church of Our Lady of the Rosary 743 Church of Our Lady of the Sea 743 Church of South India 1030 Church of St Francis of Assisi (Diu) 751 Church of St Francis of Assisi (Old Goa) 870 Goa 871 Holy Rosary Cathedral 514 Our Lady Basilica 1083 Our Lady of Mercy Church 894 Puducherry 1074 San Thome Cathedral 1049 Sé Cathedral 870 St John s Church 513 St Paul s Cathedral 509 St Paul s Church 751 St Stephen s Church 1115 St Teresa s Church 562 St Thomas Cathedral 787 St Thomas Church 751 Thrissur 1027 Cinque Island 1132 climate 20-1, 1142, 1143, 1147, 1197-8 climate change 103, 1174 clothing 63, 1171 cobras 97 Cochin, see Kochi coffee plantations 929 Coimbatore 1109-11, 1110 Colva 891-4, 892 commission agents 1147 consulates 1147-8 cooking courses 91-2, 139, 218, 374, 518, 867-8, 1017 Coonoor 1111-12 Coorg, see Kodagu Corbett Tiger Reserve 487-9 costs 21-4 courses 1142-4, see also yoga courses arts 1074, 1143 ayurveda 174, 1074-5

1228 Index (C-D) courses continued cooking 91-2, 139, 218, 374, 518, 867-8, 1017 crafts 793, 1143 dance 446, 478, 518, 1017 language 139, 375, 446, 478, 554, 793, 1050, 1144 martial arts 1144 massage 307, 375 meditation 139, 174, 307, 374, 446, 477, 518, 1050-1 mountaineering 554 music 197, 218, 446, 478, 1144 painting 218 philosophy 374 tea 543 crafts 80-1 courses 793, 1143 credit cards 1152 cricket 81-3 Kolkata 527 Mumbai 804 crocodiles 97 Crocodile Bank 1059 Kanger Valley National Park 724 Ken Gharial Sanctuary 689 Madhav National Park 677 Neyyar Dam Sanctuary 988 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary Sanctuary 1013 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757, 758 cultural sensitivity 115 cultural tours 109 culture 59-83 books 59, 63, 64 customs regulations 1144 Cuttack 666-7 cycle-rickshaws 1183 cycling 109, 1179-80 D Dal Lake 287, 12 Dalai Lama 372, 374 Dalhousie 383-6, 384 Dalrymple, William 24, 46, 48-9 Daman 743-5, 744 dance 75 courses 446, 478, 518, 1017 Dandi 743 dangers 1144-7 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Daporijo 624 Darap 601 Dargah 193 Darjeeling 547-59, 548 accommodation 554-6 attractions 552-4 drinking 557 entertainment 557 food 556-7 history 547 internet access 549 medical services 549 money 549 shopping 557 tourist information 551 tours 554 travel to/from 558-9 Dawki 642 death 59-61 Deccan Plateau 96 Deeg 186-7 deep vein thrombosis (DVT ) 1193 deer 97 Bandhavgarh National Park 719 Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary 652 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 1012 Kanger Valley National Park 724 Kanha National Park 717 Madhav National Park 677 Pench Tiger Reserve 717 Sarnath 454 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757 Satpura National Park 701 deforestation 103 Dehra Dun 461-5, 462 dehydration 1197 Delhi 119-64, 122-3 accommodation 139-46 activities 138 attractions 129-38 Connaught Place 137-8, 143, 144, 148, 152-3, 154, 130-1 courses 138-9 drinking 151-3 entertainment 153 festivals 125 food 146-51 Greater Delhi 161-4 history 120 internet access 121 medical services 121 metro 161, 162 money 121, 124 New Delhi & around 134-7, 143, 144, 148-50, 126-7 Old Delhi 129-34, 140, 143, 147, 132 Paharganj 140, 141-2, 143, 147-8, 152, 142 shopping 153-6 South Delhi 144-6, 150-1, 153, 154-5 tourist information 125 tours 139 travel to/from 156-60 travel within 160-1 volunteering 1166 zoos 137 dengue fever 1194 Desai, Morarji 56 Deshnok 253 Devbagh 934 Devi Kund 253 Dha-Hanu 322 dhal 85 Dhankar 395 Dharamkot 380 Dharamsala 368-9, 370-1, 12 Dharasuram 1082 Dharavi 793 Dharmasthala 933-4 Dhauli 652 Dhrangadhra 775 Diamond Harbour 536 diarrhoea 1196-7 Dibrugarh 622-3 digital photography 1153 Diglipur 1136 Dimapur 627 Dirang 626 disabilities, travellers with 1164 discounts 1142, 1147 Diskit 324 Diu 749-55, 750, 751 diving 109, 110 Andaman Islands 1124 Goa 877, 879 Havelock Island 1132 health 1197 Lakshadweep 1038 Diwali 27, 839-40, 840 dolphins 97 dosas 415 dowry 60 Drass 294 Dravidian civilisation 1041 drinks 87-8, see also wine driving, see car travel drugs 862, 1145, 1146-7, 1151 Drukpa Teshi 26

Index (D-F) 1229 Dudhsagar Falls 872 Dungarpur 226 Dungeshwari Cave Temples 580 Durga Puja 27, 507, 840-1, 841 Dussehra 27, 840, 917 Dwarka 764-5 E Earrakote 723 East India Company 45, 47, 48 Easter 26 economy 65 Eid al-adha 27 Eid al-fitr 27, 843 Eid-Milad-un-Nabi 27 electricity 1139 Elephanta Island 809 elephants 584, 618-9, 652, 1012, 1013 Elephant Festival 844 elephant rides & safaris 106-7 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 925-7 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 1006-10, 1007 Ellora 822-5, 824 email services 1150 embassies 1147-8 emergencies, see inside front cover Enfield Bullet motorcycles 1051 environmental issues 102-4 Goa 867 Kerala 1003 Sikkim 587 etiquette 62 Ettumanur 1006 events, see festivals & events exchange rates, see inside front cover exports 1158 F Faizabad 432-4 Fatehpur 189-90 Fatehpur Sikri 423-5, 424, 9 festivals & events 23, 26-7, 837-44 Andhra Pradesh 956 Bihar 570 Chhattisgarh 671 Christmas 843 Delhi 125 Diwali 27, 839-40, 840 Durga Puja 27, 507, 840-1, 841 Dussehra 27, 840, 917 Eid al-fitr 27, 843 Elephant Festival 844 film 863 food 88 Ganesh Chaturthi 26, 841-2, 842 Gangaur 842, 842 Goa 863 Gujarat 729 Haryana 257 Himachal Pradesh 335 Holi 27, 839, 839 Jammu 282 Janmastami 26, 842-3 Jharkhand 570 Karnataka 901 Karthikai Deepam Festival 1043, 1070 Kashmir 282 Kerala 982 Kolkata 503 Kumbh Mela 838-9, 838 Madhya Pradesh 671 Mahankali Jatra 956 Maharashtra 815 McLeod Ganj 375 Mumbai 779 Narial Purnima 841 Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race 1001 Northeast States 612 Orissa 646 Pongal 27, 839, 1043 Pooram Festival 982, 837 Punjab 257 Pushkar Camel Fair 199, 843, 843 Rajasthan 167 Ramadan 26, 843 Rath Yatra (Car Festival) 26 safety 1145 Sankranti 956 Sikkim 588 Tamil Nadu 1043 Tibetan New Year 901 Ugadi 956 Uttar Pradesh 403 Uttarakhand 461 West Bengal 535 yoga 479, 1043 Zanskar 300 film 23, 76-7 Bollywood 788 culture 65 festivals 863 Kollywood 1054 Ramoji Film City 963 Firoz Shah 43 First War of Independence 47, 51 fish 85, 97 fishing Andaman Islands 1125, 1133 Manali 362 food 84-94, 413-20, 1148 Andhra Pradesh 418-19 Bengali 523 bhelpuri 418 Bihar 416 books 84, 86 for children 1142 courses 91-2 customs 90-1 festivals 88 Goa 419, 9, 419 Gujarat 417-18 health 1144-5, 1197 Kashmir 415 Kerala 420, 1021-3, 420 language 92-4 Madhya Pradesh 417 Maharashtra 418 Mangalore 417 Northeast States 416-17, 417 Orissa 419 Punjab 414, 414 Rajasthan 414-15 religion 91 restaurants 88-9 Sikkim 416 sweets 86, 415 Tamil Nadu 420 Uttar Pradesh 415 Uttarakhand 415 vegetarian travellers 90 West Bengal 416 football 804 forests 98-9 Fort Aguada 873-7, 874 forts Agra 407, 408 Ahhichatragarh 239 Akbar s 436 Amber 182 Bala Quila 187 Barabati 666 Bekal 1036 Bhadra 729 Bharuch 742 Bidar 952-3 Chandragiri 978 Chapora 885 Chittorgarh 211 Danesborg 1083 Daulatabad 821-2 Dhankar 395

1230 Index (F-G) forts continued Diu 751 Fort Aguada 874-5 Fort Cochin 1015 Fort of St Jerome 743 Fort William 509 Gagron 209 Golconda 962, 962 Gondla 391 Gwalior 672-4 Hari Parbat 290 Ita 623 Jaigarh 183 Jaisalmer 241, 6 Janjira 831-2 Jhansi 439 Junagarh 249 Kamakhya Devi 345 Kangla 630 Kangra 382 Kankwari 188 Kondapalli 976 Kota 207 Krishnagiri 1071 Kumbalgarh 224 Lohagarh 183 Maheshwar 708 Mehrangarh 231 Moti Daman 743 Naggar Castle 355-6 Pokaran 248-9 Pratapgad 855 Raigad 855 Rajagiri 1071 Ramnagar 445 Red Fort (Lal Qila) 129-34 Sinhagad 852 Taragarh 193, 203 Tirumayam 1092 Tsemo 303 Uperkot 759 Warangal 971 French rule 47 fruit 85 G Gama, Vasco da 43, 47 Gandhi, Indira 53, 54, 56, 136 Gandhi, Mahatma 48, 49, 50, 51, 53, 54, 570 Anasakti Ashram 497 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages birthplace of 762 Gandhi Jayanti 27 Gandhi Memorial 1100 Gandhi Memorial Museum 1097 Gandhi National Memorial 848-9 Gandhi Smriti 135 Kaba Gandhi No Delo 768 khadi 451 Raj Ghat 134 Sevagram Ashram 830-1 Gandhi, Rajiv 54, 56 Gandhi, Sonia 57 Gandhinagar 738-9 Ganesh 68 Ganesh Chaturthi 26, 841-2, 842 Gangakondacholapuram 1082 Gangaur 842, 842 Ganges River 441-4, 445, 446-7, 7 Gangtok 588-94, 590 Ganpatipule 832-3 gardens, see parks & gardens Garo Hills 642 Gateway of India 783-5 Gaur 540 gaurs 717, 831, 926, 1013, 1108, 1118 Gaurisagar 622 Gaya 575-6, 575 gay issues in India 64-5 gay travellers 1148-9 gazelles 757 gems 179 geography 95-6 geology 95-6 Geyzing 598 ghats Har-ki-Pairi Ghat 471 Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat 790 Pushkar 196 Raj Ghat 134 Ram Ghat 438-57 Shanagar Burning Ghat 516 Vijayawada 975 Vishram Ghat 426 Ghori 42 Ghosh, Amitav 24 Ghur empire 43-4 giardiasis 1197 gibbons 97, 642 Gingee 1071 Goa 858-97, 859 environmental issues 867 festivals 863 food 419, 9, 419 volunteering 875, 1166 Gokarna 935-43, 936 Golden Temple 270-1, 270, 10 golf Delhi 138 Kolkata 518 Nainital 490 Naldehra 341-2 Srinagar 290 gompas 73 Bardan 298 Bhutia Busty 553 Bir 383 Bodhgaya 577 Chamba 295 Chowkhang 306 Dhankar 395 Dirang 626 Diskit 324 Druk Sangak Choling 553 Durpin 562 Enchey 589, 591 Ensa 325 Gandentse 295 Gonkang 305 Guru Ghantal 391 Hemis 327 Hunder 325 Karsha 298 Khardong 392 Kunsamnamdoling 546 Lachen 607 Lachung 606 Lava 565 Likir 320 Lingdum 595 Lingshet 298 Manali 359 Namgyal Tsemo 305 Ngadak 596 Old Rumtek 595 Pemayangtse 600 Phuktal 298 Phyang 319 Rangdum 296 Rewalsar Lake 348 Rumtek Gompa Complex 594 Sakya Choling 553 Samstemling 325 Samten Choling 553 Sangachoeling 601 Sankar 306 Serdung 295 Shargol 296 Shashur 392 Soma 303

Index (G-H) 1231 Spituk 319 Stakna 327 Stok 318 Stongde 298 Tabo 395, 396 Takthog 328 Tashiding 605 Tashijong 383 Tawang 626 Tayul 392 Tharpa Choling 562 Thekchhok 328 Thiksey 326 Thongsa 562 Tse Chokling Tsuglagkhang 372 Ugyen Sanag Choling 395 Wanla 322 Yiga Choling 553 Yuksom 602 Yungdrung 323 Zonzhar 325 Gondal 762 Gondla 391 Gopalpur-on-Sea 660-2 Gorakhpur 454-5 Govardhana Puja 27 Gramphu 391, 392 Great Himalayan National Park 349 Gujarat 725-76, 726 festivals 729 food 417-18 permits 727 volunteering 1166 Gupta empire 40-1 Guru Nanak 43, 71 Guru Shikhar 230 Gurudongmar Lake 608 gurus 116 Guwahati 612-16, 613 Gwalior 672-6, 673 H haggling 1161 Hajo 616-17 Halebid 924 Hampi 938-43, 939, 941, 6 hang-gliding 109-10 Harappan culture 38-9 Haridwar 469-74, 470 Harmal, see Arambol Haryana 254-65, 255 festivals 257 Hassan 923-4 havelis Bikaner 250 Diu 751 Jaisalmer 241 Mahansar 192 Mandawa 190 Nawalgarh 191 Shekhawati 190 Udaipur 217 Havelock Island 1132-4, 1133 Hawa Mahal 169, 172 health 1191-9 books 1193 children 1142 food 1144-5, 1197 insurance 1191 internet resources 1193, 1194 vaccinations 1192-3 heat stroke 1197-8 Hemis 327 hepatitis 1194-5 Hessaraghatta 913-14 hijras 65 hiking, see trekking hill stations Coonoor 1111-12 Kotagiri 1112 Mahabaleshwar 852-5 Matheran 833-5 Morni Hills 265 Mt Abu 226-30 Mussoorie 465 Ooty 1112-18 Ranikhet 494 Shillong 637-40 Himachal Pradesh 330-97, 332-3 festivals 335 volunteering 1166-7 Himalaya 34, 95 Hindi 1200-4 Hinduism 41-2, 67-71, 552 Hirapur 652 history 38-58, see also individual locations Aryan tribes 39 books 39, 42, 44, 46, 48, 55, 58 British rule 47-9, 50 Buddhism 39-58 Chalukya empire 42 Chola empire 41, 42 French rule 47 Ghur empire 43-4 Gupta empire 40-1 Harappan culture 38-9 Hinduism 41-2 Independence 50, 52-3 internet resources 38 Islam 40 Islamic empire 42-3 Kashmir 53-5 Maratha empire 45, 46-7 Mauryan empire 40 Mughal empire 44-6, 48-9 Pallava empire 42 Partition 50, 52-3 Portuguese rule 47 Rajputs 40, 46-7 Vijayanagar empire 42, 45 hitching 1182 HIV 63, 1195 hockey 82 Hodka 773 Holi 27, 839, 839 holidays 1149 homestays 1140 Ladakh 314 West Bengal 538 Hooghly River 537 hornbills 97 horse riding 107 Mumbai 791 Ooty 1115-16 Pushkar 196 Udaipur 218 Hospet 943-4 houseboats 1002-3 Dal Lake 287 Kerala 1002 Srinagar 291, 292 Hubli 944-6 Humayun 44 Humayun s Tomb 135 Hume, Allan Octavian 338 Hunder 325 Hyderabad 956-70, 958, 960 accommodation 964-5 attractions 959-60 courses 963-4 drinking 966 entertainment 967 food 965-6 internet access 957 medical services 959 money 959 shopping 967 tourist information 959 travel to/from 967-8 travel within 968-70 hydroelectricity 346 hyenas 757

1232 Index (I-K) I idlis 420 immigration 1173 Imphal 630-1 incense 1160 Independence 50, 52-3 Independence Day 26 Indian Museum 509 Indian National Congress 48, 49 Indian Uprising, see First War of Independence Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Wildlife Sanctuary 1108-9 Indo-Gangetic Plains 95-6 Indore 704-7, 706 Indus Valley 326-7 Indus Valley civilisation 38-9 information technology (IT ) industry 67, 906 inner line permits, see permits insect bites 1198 insurance 1149-50 health 1191 motorcycle 1184-5 internet access 1150 internet resources 24-5 air tickets 1174-5 health 1193, 1194 history 38 volunteering 1165 wildlife conservation 105 Islam 40, 71 Islamic empire 42-3 Islamnagar 694 Itanagar 623 itineraries 28-37 J Jabalpur 713-15, 714 jackals 97, 1118 Jagdalpur 721-2 Jahan, Shah 404, 407 Jaigarh 183 Jainism 72 Jain temples Bikaner 250 Daman 743 Jamnager 766 Lodhruva 248 Mandu 712 Patan 738 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Jaipur 168-82, 170-1 accommodation 174-7 attractions 169-73 courses 174 drinking 178-9 entertainment 179 food 177-8 history 168 internet access 168 medical services 169 money 169 shopping 179-81 tourist information 169 tours 174 travel to/from 181 travel within 182 walking tour 173-4, 174 Jaisalmer 240-7, 242, 6 Jaisamand Lake 225 Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 544 Jalgaon 828 Jallianwala Bagh massacre 272 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 134, 11, 11 Jambughoda 742 Jammu 277-329, 280-1, 284 festivals 282 volunteering 1167 Jamnagar 765-8, 766 Janmastami 26, 842-3 Japanese B encephalitis 1195 Jarawa 1123 Jari 350 Jashipur 666 Jawalamukhi 382 jeep travel 107, 1186 Jehangir 44 Jelep La 595 jet lag 1193-4 jewellery 1156 Jeypore 663-4 Jhalawar 209-10 Jhansi 439, 677 Jharkhand 566-7, 582-4 festivals 570 Jhunjhunu 192 Jispa 392 Jodhpur 230-9, 232 Jog Falls 934-5 Jorethang 596-7 Jorhat 619-20 Joshimath 484-5 Junagadh 759-61, 760 Jungle Book 717 K kabaddi 82 Kabi Lunchok 605 Kabini Lake 926 Kachchh, see Kutch Kadmat Island 1038 Kaffer 565 Kailasahar 637 Kakkabe 929 kalarippayat 1022, 1023-4 Kalimpong 560-4, 561 Kalpa 346-7 Kama Sutra carvings 680, 682, 5 Kamaraj, K 1100-1 Kamru 345 Kanchipuram 1065-7, 1066 Kangra 381-2 Kanha National Park 717-19 Kannur 1034-5 Kanyakumari 1100-3, 1102 Kargil 295 Karnataka 898-953, 899 festivals 901 volunteering 1167 Karodi 743 Karsha 297-8 Kasauli 342 Kashmir 277-329, 280-1 conflict in 53-5 festivals 282 food 415 safety 283 volunteering 1167 Kasol 352 Kathakali 1022, 1023 Kausani 497-8 kayaking 110-11 Kaza 393-4 Kaziranga National Park 618-19 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 185-6 Kerala 980-1038, 981 communism 991 environmental issues 1003 festivals 982 food 420, 1021-3, 420 Kesariya 574 Keylong 391 Khachoedpalri Lake 601-2 khadi 451 Khajjiar 386 Khajuraho 680-9, 681, 5 Khalsi 322 Khangchendzonga 552, 8 Khardung 324 Khardung La 323-4

Index (K-M) 1233 Khichan 239 Khoksar 391 Khonoma 629 Khuri 248 khurs 97, 775 Kibber 394-5 Kigwema 629 Kinnaur Valley 343-7 Kipling, Rudyard 717 Kochi 1013-26, 1014 accommodation 1019-21 activities 1017 drinking 1021-3 entertainment 1023-4 Ernakulam 1020-1, 1023, 1018 Fort Cochin 1019-20, 1021-3, 1016 internet access 1013-14 Mattancherry 1020, 1023, 1016 medical services 1014 money 1014 shopping 1024 tourist information 1014 tours 1017-19 travel to/from 1024-5 travel within 1025-6 Kodagu Region 927-30 Kodai, see Kodaikanal Kodaikanal 1103-8, 1106 Kohima 627-9 kolams 81 Kolhapur 855-7 Kolkata 501-31, 504-5, 10 accommodation 519-22 activities 518 attractions 508-18 BBD Bagh 511, 521, 512 Chowringhee 519-21, 521, 510 drinking 526-7 entertainment 527 festivals 503 food 522-6 history 502 internet access 503 medical services 503-6 metro 531 money 506 permits 506 shopping 527, 527-8 tourist information 507 tours 518-19 travel to/from 528-31 travel within 531 volunteering 1167 Kollam 997-9, 997, 9 Konark 657-9, 658 Kondagaon 724 Konkan Coast 831-3 Koraput 664 Kota 207-9, 208 Kotagiri 1112 Kotpad 664 Kottayam 1004-5 Kovalam 988-92, 989, 9 Kozhikode 1029-31, 1030 Kremmer, Christopher 24, 60 Kullu 353-5, 351, 354 Kullu Valley 350, 351 Kumarakom 1005-6 Kumbakonam 1081-2, 1081 Kumbalgarh 224 Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 225 Kumbh Mela 838-9, 838 Kumily 1008-9, 1007 Kunzum La 393 Kurseong 546-7 Kurukshetra 265-6 Kushinagar 455-6 Kutch 770-6 L Lachen 607 Lachen Chu 607 Lachung 606 Lachung Chu 606 Ladakh 299-329 festivals 300 homestays 314 permits 300 responsible travel 310 volunteering 307 Lahaul 389-90 Lahaul Valley 390 Lake Pichola 215 Lakshadweep 1036-8, 1037 Lalitgiri 668 Lamayuru 322-3 language 1200-6 courses 139, 375, 446, 478, 554, 793, 1050, 1144 food 92-4 Hindi 1200-4 Tamil 1204-6 langurs 719, 926, 1006 laundry 1150 Lava 565 leatherwork 1156-7 legal matters 1150-1 Legship 598 Leh 301-15, 302, 7 accommodation 308-11 activities 307 attractions 303-7 courses 307 drinking 312 food 311-12 internet access 302 medical services 303 money 303 shopping 312 tourist information 303 travel to/from 312-15 travel within 315 leopards 97 Bandhavgarh National Park 719 Betla (Palamau) National Park 583 Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary 652 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 1012 Kanha National Park 717 Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 225 Nagarhole National Park 926 Panna National Park 689 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757-9 Lepakshi 979 lesbian travellers 1148-9 lesbian issues in India 64-5 Likir 320 lions 98, 100-1, 651-2, 758 Nandankanan Zoological Park 651 Neyyar Dam Sanctuary 988 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 literature 24, 77-8, 167, 1050, see also books Little Andaman 1137 Little Rann Sanctuary 775 Lodhruva 248 Loktak Lake 631 Lonar Meteorite Crater 828-9 Lonavla 835-6, 845, 836 Losar (festival) 27 Losar (village) 393-7 Lothal 38, 737-8 Lucknow 428-32, 429 Lutyens, Edwin 49 M macaques 97, 926 Madgaon, see Margao Madhya Pradesh 669-720, 670 festivals 671 food 417 volunteering 686, 1168

1234 Index (M) Madikeri 927-9 Madras, see Chennai Madurai 1094-100, 1096 Mahabaleshwar 852-5, 853 Mahabalipuram, see Mamallapuram Mahabharata 69-70 Mahal, Mumtaz 45, 404 Mahansar 192 Maharashtra 811-57, 812 festivals 815 food 418 volunteering 1168 Mahavir Jayanti 26 Maheshwar 708-9 Mahmud of Ghazni 41, 42-3 Majuli Island 620-1 Malana 350 malaria 1195-6 Malda 540 Malpe 934 Malvan 833 Mamallapuram 1059-64, 1061 Mana Village 486 Manali 357-66, 358 accommodation 360-3 attractions 359 drinking 364 food 363-4 internet access 357 medical services 357 money 357 shopping 364-5 tourist information 359 tours 359-60 travel to/from 365 travel within 366 Manas National Park 617 Mandawa 190-1 Mandi 347-8 Mandore 239 Mandrem 887 Mandu 709-13, 710 Mandvi 774-5 Maner 574 Mangalore 930-3, 932 food 417 Mangan 606 Manikaran 353 Manipur 630-1 maps 1151 Mapusa 872-3 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Maratha empire 45, 46-7 marble 1157 Marble Rocks 715-16 Margao 889-91, 890 marriage 59-61, 11 martial arts courses 1144 Matabari 636 Matheran 833-5, 834 Matho 319 Mathura 425-7, 426 Maurya, Chandragupta 39, 40 Mauryan empire 40 Mayabunder 1136 Mayapur 539 McLeod Ganj 369-80, 370, 12 accommodation 375-7 attractions 372 drinking 379 festivals 375 food 377-9 internet access 372 medical services 372 money 372 shopping 379 tourist infomation 372 travel to/from 379 volunteering 376 measures 1139, see also inside front cover meat 85 media 83 medical services 1194, see also health meditation 116-17 courses 139, 174, 307, 374, 446, 477, 518, 1050-1 Vipassana International Academy 817 Meghalaya 637-42 Mehrangarh 231 Melagarh 637 Melkote 922 metalwork 1157 metric conversions, see inside front cover Mettupalayam 1111 Minicoy Island 1038 Mirik 545-6 Mizoram 631-3 Modhera 738 Mohammed, Prophet 40 Mohammed Tughlaq 43 Mon 629 monasteries, see also gompas Bavikonda 974 Bon 598 Lalitgiri 668 Monastery Loop 601-5 Namdroling 930 Palchen Choeling Monastic Institute 598 Phensang 606 Ratnagiri 668 Sanchi 698 Sankaram 974-5 St Augustine 871 Than 773 Thotlakonda 974 Udayagiri 668 money 21-4, 1151-3, see also inside front cover Monga, Sunjoy 790-1 monkeys 701, 716, 717, 636 mosques Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 193 Adina Masjid 540 Ahmedabad 729-31 Baradwari 540 Bhopal 691-2 Haji Ali 790-1 Hazratbal 290 Jama Masjid (Agra) 410 Jama Masjid (Bijapur) 951 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 134, 11 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 423 Jama Masjid (Leh) 305 Jama Masjid (Mandu) 712 Jama Masjid (Srinagar) 289 Kashmiri 289 Katra Masjid (Mathura) 426 Katra Mosque (Murshidabad) 539 Kuttichira 1030 Mecca Masjid 963 Mosque of Dilawar Khan 711 Nakhoda 514 POA Mecca 617 Mother Teresa 509, 514 motion sickness 1193-4 motorcycle travel 109, 1051, 1184-6 mountaineering 111-12, 301 courses 554 Darjeeling 554 health 1198 Himalayan Mountaineering Institute 553 Leh 307 Manali 359, 362 Mt Abu 226-30, 228 Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary 230 Mt Arunachala 1070 Mt Everest 552

Index (M-N) 1235 Mt Harriet 1132 Mt Katao 606 Mt Khangchendzonga 552, 8 Mudumalai National Park 1118-19 Mughal empire 44-6, 48-9 Muharram 27 Mulbekh 295-6 Mumbai 777-810, 780-1, 5 accommodation 794-8 activities 791-2 attractions 783-91 Central Suburbs 795-6, 797-8, 801, 802-3, 796 children 793-4 Churchgate 797, 800 Colaba 783-5, 794-5, 796-7, 798-9, 784 courses 793 drinking 801-3 entertainment 803-4 festivals 779 food 798-801, 418 Fort Area 786-8, 795, 797, 799-800, 786 history 778-9 internet access 779-82 itineraries 785 medical services 782 money 782 shopping 804-5 tourist information 783 tours 794 travel to/from 805-7 travel within 807-9 volunteering 1168 walking tour 792-3, 792 Munnar 1010-12, 1010 Murshidabad 539 Murud 831-2 music 75-6 courses 174, 197, 218, 446, 478, 1144 Rajasthani 238 musical instruments 155-6, 1157 Muslim League 49 Mussoorie 465-9, 466-7 Mysore 914-21, 915 N Naag Panchami 26 Nabadwip 539 Nadir Shah 46 Naga people 627, 628, 629 Nagaland 627-30 Nagarjunakonda 970 Nagaur 239 Naggar 355-7 Nagpur 829-31 Nahan 343 Naini Lake 490 Nainital 489-94, 491 Nakki Lake 226 Nako 397 Nalanda 581-2 Namchi 596 Nanak Jayanti 27 Nandi Hills 914 Narayan, Jaya Prakash 56 Narial Purnima 841 Narkanda 342 Narmada River 102 Nasik 813-16, 814 Nathu La 595 National Gallery of Modern Art (Delhi) 136 National Gallery of Modern Art (Mumbai) 785-6 National Museum (Delhi) 136 national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries 99-102, 757-9 Badrama Wildlife Sanctuary 665 Bandhavgarh National Park 719-20 Bandipur National Park 926 Bannerghatta Biological Park 913 Betla (Palamau) National Park 583-4 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 667-8 Calimere (Kodikkarai) Wildlife & Bird Sanctuary 1083 Chandaka Wildlife Sanctuary 652 Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 1012 Corbett Tiger Reserve 487-9 Debrigarh Wildlife Sanctuary 665 Desert National Park 248 Dubare Forest Reserve 930 Eravikulam National Park 1012 Great Himalayan National Park 349 Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Wildlife Sanctuary 1108-9 Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary 544 Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary 386 Kanger Valley National Park 724 Kanha National Park 717-19 Karanji Lake Nature Park 917 Kaziranga National Park 618-19 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 185-6 Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary 766 Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary 1005 Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 225 Little Rann Sanctuary 775 Madhav National Park 676-7 Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park 1132 Manas National Park 617 Marine National Park 766 Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary 230 Mudumalai National Park 1118-19 Nagarhole National Park 926 Nal Sarovar Bird Sanctuary 737 Nameri National Park 618 Neyyar Dam Sanctuary 988 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 925-7 Nokrek Biosphere Reserve 642 Panna National Park 689 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary 1013 Pench Tiger Reserve 716-17 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 1006-10, 1007 Pin Valley National Park 395 Pobitora National Park 617 Rajaji National Park 474-5 Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary 921 Ranthambore National Park 201-3 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 Sariska Tiger Reserve 188 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757-9 Satpura National Park 699 Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary 636 Similipal National Park 665-6 Singalila National Park 559 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 266 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 534-6 Tadoba-Andhari Reserve 829, 831 Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 1012-13 Valley of Flowers National Park 485 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1065 Velavadar National Park 748 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 1031-4, 1032 Navratri 26 Navsari 743 Nawalgarh 191 Neermahal 637 Nehru, Jawaharlal 52, 55-6, 137 Neil Island 1134-5 Nepal border crossings 456, 499, 545, 558, 574, 1177 New Jalpaiguri 540-4 newspapers 83, 1139 Nicobar Island 1120-37

1236 Index (N-P) Nicobarese 1123 nilgai 757, 831 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 925-7 Nilgiri Hills 1105 Nilgiri tahr 1012 Nilgiri tribes 1104, 1113, 1115 Nimatighat 620 Nimmu 320 Nohkalikai Falls 641 Norbulingka Institute 381 Norgay, Tenzing 553 Northeast States 609-42, 610 festivals 612 food 416-17, 417 itineraries 33 permits 610-11 safety 611 nuclear power 55 Nurla 322 O observatories Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 137 Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 172 Vedh Shala (Observatory) 703-4 Om symbol 69 Omkareshwar 707-8 Onge 1123 Onkadelli 664 Ooty 1112-18, 1114 Orchha 677-80, 678 Orissa 643-68, 644 festivals 646 food 419 volunteering 1168 Osiyan 239 oud 1160 P Pabbar Valley 342 Pachmarhi 699-702, 700 Padmasambhava 601 Padum 297 Pahalgam 286 painting 79-80, 1157-8 courses 218 Pakistan border crossings 275-6, 1177-8 palaces Akbar s Palace 193 Akhand Chandi 387 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Amber 182 Baz Bahadur 712 Bengaluru 904 Bhuj 770 Bundi 204 Chowmahalla 961 City (Alwar) 187 City (Jaipur) 172 City (Kota) 207 City (Udaipur) 216 Fateh Prakash 211 Fatehpur Sikri 423, 424 Hawa Mahal 169, 172 Hazarduari 539 Islamnagar 694 Jagmandir 216 Jahaz Mahal 711 Jai Vilas 674 Jambughoda 742 Jehangir Mahal 677 Juna Mahal 226 Kaliadeh 704 Karenghar 622 Kinnaur Kalachakra Celestial Palace 345 Krishnapuram 999 Lakhota 765 Lal Bagh 705 Lalgarh 249 Laxmi Vilas 740 Leh 303 Maharaja 916 Man Singh 672-4 Marble 517 Mattancherry 1015 Mehrangarh 231 Neermahal 637 Nil Kanth 712 Padam 343 Padmanabhapuram 992-3 Padmini s Palace 211 Puthe Maliga Palace Museum 985 Raj Mahal 677 Rana Kumbha 211 Sajjan Garh (Monsoon Palace) 217 Shaniwar Wada 848 Stok 318 Suraj Mahl 186 Taragarh 383 Tipu Sultan 906 Tirumalai Nayak 1097 Ujjayanta 635 Umaid Bhawan 233 Vijay Vilas 774 Palampet 972 Palampur 382 Palitana 748-9 Pallava empire 42 Palolem 895-7, 895 Panaji 864-70, 865 Pandua 540 Pang 329 Pangong Tso 328 Panjim, see Panaji panthers 926, 1013, 1108, 1118 Paonta Sahib 343 papier-mâché 1158 paragliding 109-10 Himachal Pradesh 331 Manali 362 Parambikulam Wildlife Sanctuary 1013 Parasnath 584 parks & gardens Botanical Gardens (Kolkata) 515 Botanical Gardens (Ooty) 1115 Brindavan Gardens 922 Chambal Gardens 208 Chhattar Bilas Gardens 208 Cubbon Park 905 Lalbagh Botanical Gardens 904 Lloyd Botanical Gardens 554 Mandore 239 Mehtab Bagh 409 Pinjore (Yadavindra) Gardens 265 Parsi community 789 Parsurampura 191-2 Partition 50, 52-3 Parur 1027 Parvati Valley 350 Pashmina Cooperative Society 328 Pasighat 625 passports 1173 Patan 738 Pateti 26 Pathankot 276 Patiala 267-8 Patil, Pratibha 57 Patna 568-73, 569 Pattadakal 948-9 Pattan Valley 391 Pavagadh 741-2 Pawapuri 582 Pelling 598-600, 599 Pench Tiger Reserve 716-17 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 1006-10, 1007 permits 1163-4 Andaman Islands 1122-4 Gujarat 727

Index (P-S) 1237 Guwahati 613-14 Kaza 395 Kolkata 506 Ladakh 300 Lakshadweep 1037 Mizoram 632 Nicobar Island 1122-4 Northeast States 610-11 Shimla 337 Sikkim 558, 587 Tamil Nadu 1042 Tibet 331 Phari 595 Phey 319 Phodong 606 phone codes 1162-3 photography 1145, 1153 Phyang 319 Pichavaram 1080-1 pilgrimages 63 Bodhgaya 576 Dargah 193 Deshnok 253 Dwarka 764 Gaya 575 Hajo 616-17 Junagadh 760 Khuldabad 822 Namchi 596 Nasik 814 Omkareshwar 707-8 Puri 652 Rajgir 580 Shatrunjaya 748 Sivagiri Mutt 994 Tirumala 976-8 Tiruvannamalai 1069-71 Udupi 934 Pin Valley National Park 395 Pipli 652 planning 20-5 plants 98-9 Pobitora National Park 617 Pokaran 248-9 politics 57 polo 82 Ponda 872 Pondicherry, see Puducherry Pongal 27, 839, 1043 population 66 Porbandar 762-4, 763 Port Blair 1127-31, 1128 Portuguese rule 47 postal services 1153-4 pottery 1154-5 poverty 65 prehistoric paintings 695 Prophet Mohammed 40 prostitution 65 Puducherry 1071-8, 1072 Pune 846-52, 847 Punjab 254-76, 266-76, 414, 255 festivals 257 food 414, 414 Puri 652-7, 653 Pushkar 195-201, 197 Pushkar Camel Fair 199, 843, 843 Puttaparthi 979 pythons 97 Q Quilon, see Kollam Quit India campaign 50, 54 Qutb Minar 163-4 R Rabdentse 601 rabies 1196 radio 83, 1139 rafting Himachal Pradesh 331 Leh 307 Manali 362 Rishikesh 478 Uttarakhand 459 Raghurajpur 657 Raipur 720-1 Raj Ghat 134 Rajaji National Park 474-5 Rajasthan 165-253, 166 Adivasis 168 festivals 167 food 414-15 itineraries 29 volunteering 1169 Rajgir 580-1 Rajkot 768-70, 769 Rajputs 40, 46-7 Raksha Bandhan (Narial Purnima) 26 Ralang 598 Ramadan 26, 843 Ramanavami 26 Ramayana 70 Rambha 660 Rameswaram 1092-4, 1093 Ramgarh 189 Rampur 343-4 Ranakpur 225 Ranchi 582-3 Raneh Falls 689 Rangdum 296 Ranikhet 494-5, 495 Ranthambore National Park 201-3 Raptan, Niranjan 536 Rath Yatra (Car Festival) 26 Ratnagiri 668, 833 Ravangla (Rabongla) 597-8 Raxaul 574-5 Rayagada 662-3 rebel violence 1145 Red Fort (Lal Qila) 129-34 Rekong Peo 345-6 religion 66-73 books 69-70, 71 food 91 Parsi community 789 reptiles 97 responsible travel coral 1122 diving 110 Ladakh 310 Leh 312 McLeod Ganj 377 shopping 1155 trekking 114-15, 317 restaurants 88-9 Rewalsar Lake 348-9 rhinos 617, 618-19 rice 84 Rishikesh 475-82, 476 river rafting 110-11, 679 rock climbing 111-12 Karnataka 940 Manali 363 Nainital 490 Rohet 239 Rohtang La 390 Ross Island 1131-2 Rumtek 594-5 Rushikulya 660 S safe travel festivals 1145 Kashmir 283 Kullu Valley 350 Northeast States 611 Parvati Valley 350 swimming 1146 trekking 113, 1147 women travellers 1171 Sagar Island 536-7 Sagnam 395 Sai Baba 817, 979

1238 Index (S-T ) Salaam Baalak Trust 141 Sam Sand Dunes 248 Sambalpur 665 sambars 926, 1006, 1013 Samthar Plateau 565 Sanchi 695-8, 696 sandalwood 99 Sangla 344-5 Sangla Valley 344 Sanjan 743 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 Sankaram 974-5 Sarahan 344 saris 63, 1158 Sariska Tiger Reserve 188 Sarnath 453-4, 453 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757-9 Sasaram 576 Satapada 659-60 Satna 689 satras 621 Saurashtra 745-70 Sayla 776 scams 179, 403, 1145-6 sea turtles 97 seafood 85 Secunderabad 956-70, 958 accommodation 964-5 attractions 959-60 drinking 966 entertainment 967 food 965-6 internet access 957 medical services 959 money 959 shopping 967 tourist information 959 travel to/from 967-8 travel within 968-70 Senji, see Gingee Sentinelese 1123 Sevagram 830-1 Shah Jahan 45 Shah, Tahir 24 Shakti 328 Sham 320 Shantiniketan 538-9 shawls 356 Shekhawati 189-92, 189 Sher Shah 44 Shey 326 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Shillong 637-40, 638 Shimla 334-41, 336-7 Shingha Chingyuo 630 Shiva 68 Shivaji 46 Shivaratri 27 Shivpuri 676-7 Shompen 1123 shopping 1154-61 language 1205 Shravan Purnima 26 Shri Narayana Guru 994 Siddhartha Gautama 39 Sidhibari 380-1 Sikhism 71-2 Sikkim 585-608, 586, 8 festivals 588 food 416 itineraries 33 permits 558, 587 volunteering 1169 Siliguri 540-4, 542 silk 1158-9 Similipal National Park 665-6 Simla Agreement 53 Singalila National Park 559 Singh, Manmohan 58 Singh, Ranjit 47 Sinhagad 852 Sinquerim 873-7, 874 Sirpur 721 Sivasagar 621 Sivasamudram 922-3 skiing 112 Himachal Pradesh 331 Manali 363 Solang Nullah 367-8 Uttarakhand 460 skin problems 1199 sloth bears 409, 831, 1118 sloths 1013 Smit 640 snakes 97, 848 snorkelling 109 Andaman Islands 1124-5 snow boarding 112 Manali 363 Solang Nullah 367-8 solo travellers 1161 Somnath 755-7 Somnathpur 922 Sonamarg 294 Sonepur 574 spas 117 spices 84, 872, 928, 1008, 1160 Spiti 392-7 sport 81-3 squirrel 1012 Sravanabelagola 924-5 Sri Kalahasti 978-9 Sri Sathya Sai Baba 817, 979 Srinagar 286-94, 288 Srirangapatnam 921-2 Stakna 327 STDs 1196 Stobgais 328 stone carving 1154-5 street food 89, 90 stupas Amaravathi 976 Chaukhandi Stupa 453 Dehra Dun (Great Stupa) 463 Dhamekh Stupa 453 Kesariya 574 Leh 306 Nalanda 582 Rajgir 580 Ramabhar 455 Sanchi 696, 697 Shanti Stupa 652 Vaishali 573 Vishwashanti Stupa 580 Sumur 325 Sunauli 456-7 sunburn 1199 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 534-6 Surajkund 266 Surat 742 surfing Andaman Islands 1125 health 1197 Suru Valley 296 sustainable travel, see environmental issues, GreenDex Swami Vivekananda 1047, 1048-9, 1101 sweets 86, 415 synagogues BethEl Synagogue 514 Keneseth Eliyahoo Synagogue 786 Moghan David Synagogue 514 Pardesi Synagogue 1015 Parur 1027 T Tabo 395-6 Tagore, Rabindranath 78, 517 Taj Mahal 45, 404-7, 4 Taj Mahal Palace & Tower 785 Takthog 328

Index (T ) 1239 Talatalghar 622 Tamerlane 42, 43-4 Tamil 1204-6 Tamil Nadu 1039-119, 1040 festivals 1043 food 420 permits 1042 volunteering 1169-70 Tangtse 328 Tanjore, see Thanjavur Tapovan 380-1 Taptapani 662 Taragarh 383 Tarkarli 833 Tashiding 605 Tashijong 383 Tattapani 342 Tawang Town 626 Tawang Valley 626-7 taxis 1183 women travellers 1171-2 tea 87, 622 Banerjee, Rajah 547 Darjeeling 552 Kurseong 546 Palampur 382 West Bengal Hills 543 Teesta Bazaar 565 telephone services 1161-3, see also inside front cover temples, see also Jain temples & individual locations Aihole 949 Akshardham (Delhi) 137 Akshardham (Gandhinagar) 738-9 Arunachaleswar 1069-70 Badami 946-7 Badrinath 486 Bagnath 498 Bahai House of Worship (Lotus Temple) 137 Bala Hanuman 765 Balaji 183 Basheshar Mahadev 349 Belur Math 518 Bhojeshwar 694-5 Bhubaneswar 646-8 Brajeshwari Devi 381 Brihadishwara 1084 Chandi Devi 471 Channakeshava 924 Char Dham 483 Chhoskhor Temple Complex 321 Dakshineswar Kali 518 Dilwara 226 Elephanta Island 809 Ellora 822-5, 824 Five Rathas 1060-2 Gandamadana Parvatham 1094 Gangotri 482 Gita 426 Golden 270-1, 270, 10 Hadimba 359 Hoysaleswara 924 Jagannath (Koraput) 664 Jagannath (Ranchi) 582 Jagannath Mandir (Agartala) 635, 636 Jagannath Mandir (Puri) 654 Jagdish 217 Jalakanteshwara 1069 Janardhana 994 Kailasa 823 Kali 515 Kamakhya Mandir 614 Kapaleeshwarar 1049 Karni Mata 253 Kesava Deo 426 Keshava 922 Krishna 934 Kumari Amman 1100 Lakshmi Narayan (Birla Mandir) 137 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex (Chamba) 386 Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex (Rajgir) 581 Lakulisha 741 Laxman 721 Mahabodhi 576 Mahalaxmi 790 Mahaparinirvana 455 Mangaladevi 1008 Mansa Devi 471 Masrur 382 Mata 271 Mathakuar 455 Mulgandha Kuti Vihar 454 Nasiyan (Red) Temple 194 Nataraja 1079-80 Pataleshvara 848 Patalpuri 436 Prashara 349 Ram Tirath 271 Ramakrishna Mutt 1049 Ramanathaswamy Temple 1093, 837 Ramappa 972 Ramtek 830 Shore 1060 Shri Govindajee Mandir 630 Sree Vallabha 1006 Sri Chamundeswari 916 Sri Durgiana 271 Sri Guru Nanak Ji Gurdwara 353 Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple 978 Sri Krishna 1029 Sri Meenakshi 1095-7 Sri Padmanabhaswamy 985 Sri Ranganathaswamy 921 Sun (Konark) 657-8 Sun (Modhera) 738 Takhteshwar 746 Tamil Nadu 1042 Tapkeshwar 463 Temple of Somnath 755 Thyagararajaswami 1087 Trimbakeshwar 817 Tripura Sundari Mandir 637 Vadakkunathan Kshetram 1027 Vedagirishvara 1064-5 Veerbhadra 979 Venkateshwara 977 Virupaksha 938-9 Vishwanath 444 Vittala 940 Yogini 652 tempos 1182-3 tennis 81-2 textiles 1159-60, see also crafts Tezpur 617-18 Thanggu 608 Thanjavur 1084-7, 1086 Thar Desert 247, 8 theft 1146-7 theyyam 1022 Thiksey 326 Thiruvananthapuram 983-8, 984 Thotlakonda 974 Thrissur 1027-9, 1028, 837 Tibet Amchi 375 Bylakuppe 930 Dalai Lama 372 Namgyal Institute of Tibetology & Around 589 Norbulingka Institute 381 Padmasambhava 601 permits 331 Secretariat of the Tibetan Government in Exile 373 Tibet Museum 372-3 Tibetan exiles 378 Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre 553 Tsuglagkhang 372

1240 Index (T-V) tiffins 799 tigers 97, 99, 536, 583, 651-2, 1013 Bandhavgarh National Park 719-20 Corbett Tiger Reserve 487-9 Kanha National Park 717-19 Manas National Park 617 Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 925-7 Pench Tiger Reserve 716-17 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 1006-10, 1007 Ranthambore National Park 201-3 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 Sariska Tiger Reserve 188 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 534-6 Tadoba-Andhari Reserve 829, 831 Tikjuk 598 time 1163 Timur (Tamerlane) 42, 43-4 tipping 1152-3 Tiruchirappalli, see Trichy Tirumala 976-8 Tirupathi 976-8 Tiruvannamalai 1069-71 toilets 1140 tombs, shrines & mausoleums Ahmedabad 729-31 Anand Bhavan 436 Bahmani Tombs 953 Bahu Begum ka Maquabara 433 Bara Imambara 430 Bibi-Qa-Maqbara 819 Chhoti Dargah 574 Chini-ka-Rauza 409 Dargah 193 Golgumbaz 949-50 Har Mandir Takht 571 Hoshang s Tomb 712 Humayun s Tomb 135 Hussainabad Imambara 430 Itimad-ud-Daulah 409 Job Charnock 513 Khusru Bagh 436 Mahabat Maqbara 759 Mausoleum of Sher Shah 576 Naqshband Sahib 290 Nine Planets Shrine 658-9 Paigah Tombs 962-3 Pir Dastgir Sahib 289 Qadam-i-Rasool Shrine 666 Qutb Shahi Tombs 962 000 Map pages 000 Photograph pages Ram Rai Darbar 463 Rozabal 289 Samadhi Swamiji Maharaj Bagh 410 Taj Mahal 404 Tomb of Tansen 674-5 tourist information 1163 tours 1185, 1186 touts 1147 train travel 1187-90 Tranquebar 1083 travellers cheques 1153 travel to/from India 1173-8 travel within India 1178-90 trees 98-9 trekking 112-13 Garhwal Temple Treks 482 Hamta Pass Trek 367 Har ki Dun Valley Trek 483 Hem Kund Trek 485 Himachal Pradesh 331, 333 Joshimath 484 Kalimpong 562 Kedarnath Temple Trek 483 Khangchendzonga Trek 603 Kodaikanal 1105 Kuari Pass 486-7 Ladakh 315 Leh 307 Manali 363 McLeod Ganj 374 McLeod Ganj to Bharmour 381 Milam Glacier Trek 499-500 Monastery Loop 601-5 Mt Abu 227 Naggar 356 Nainital 490 Nanda Devi Sanctuary Trek 487 Nandi Hills 914 Ooty 1115 Orchha 679 Pachmarhi 701 Pindari Glacier Trek 499 Pin-Parvati Valley Trek 352 responsible travel 317 Rishikesh 478 safety 113, 1147 Sikkim 588, 591 Singalila Ridge Trek 559-60, 559 Udaipur 218 Uttarakhand 459 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 1031-4 Yamunotri Temple Trek 483 Yuksom to Tashiding Trek 604 Zanskar 298 Trichur, see Thrissur Trichy 1087-92, 1090 Tripunithura 1026 Tripura 633-7 Trivandrum, see Thiruvananthapuram Tso Kar 329 Tso Moriri 327 Tsomgo (Changu Tsangu) Lake 595 Tsopta 608 Tsuglagkhang 372 tuberculosis 1196 Tughlaqabad 161-3 Tura 642 turtles 660, 661, 724, 867 TV 83, 1139 typhoid 1196 U Udaipur (Rajasthan) 213-24, 214 accommodation 219-22 attractions 215-18 courses 218 drinking 223 entertainment 223 food 222-3 internet access 213 money 215 shopping 223 tourist information 215 tours 218 travel to/from 223-4 travel within 224 Udaipur (Tripura) 636 Udayagiri 668 Udhagamandalam, see Ooty Udipi, see Udupi Udupi 934 Udvada 743 Ujjain 702-4, 703 Upshi 329 Uttar Pradesh 398-457, 400-1 festivals 403 food 415 volunteering 1170 Uttarakhand 458-500, 460 festivals 461 food 415 volunteering 1170 Uttarkashi 482 V vaccinations 1192-3 Vadodara 739-41, 739 Vagator 885-7, 886

Index (V-Z) 1241 Vailankanni 1083 Vaishali 573-4 Vaishno Devi 287 Vajpayee, Atal Behari 57 Valley of Flowers National Park 485 Varanasi 440-52, 442, 444, 7 accommodation 447-9 attractions 441-5 drinking 450-1 emergency 440 entertainment 450-1 food 449-50 ghats 441-57 internet access 441 medical services 441 money 441 shopping 451-7 tourist information 441 tours 447 travel to/from 451-2 travel within 452 volunteering 445 Varkala 993-6, 994 Vasant Panchami 27 Vashisht 366-7 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1065 vegetables 85 vegetarian travellers 90 Vellore 1068-9, 1068 Veraval 755, 756 Victoria Memorial 508 Vidisha 698-9 Vijayanagar empire 42, 45 Vijayawada 975-6 vikrams 1182-3 Viper Island 1132 Virupaksha, H 945 Visakhapatnam 972-4 visas 1164-5 Vishnu 68 volunteering 1165-70 Goa 875 Leh 307 Madhya Pradesh 686 McLeod Ganj 376 Varanasi 445 Vrindavan 427-8 W Wandoor 1132 Wanla 322 Warangal 970-2 water 103-4, 1197 water sports 109 Goa 861, 877 Mumbai 792 water sports Goa 877 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 1031-4, 1032 weather 20-1, 1142, 1143 weaving 768 websites, see internet resources weights, see inside front cover West Bengal 532-65, 533, 541 festivals 535 food 416 volunteering 1170 Western Ghats 1103-19, 1105 white-water rafting Darjeeling 554 Teesta Bazaar 565 wild boars 1006, 1108, 1118 wildlife, see animals, plants wildlife conservation 105, 115 wildlife safaris Ranthambore National Park 201 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 809-10 Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 757 Satpura National Park 701 wildlife sanctuaries, see national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries wildlife-watching 105-8 wine 816 wolves 97, 225 women in India 73-4 women travellers 1161, 1199, 1170-2 woodcarving 1160 WWI 50 Y Yadav, Lalu Prasad 571 yoga 117-18 yoga courses 118, 1144 Delhi 139 festivals 479, 1043 Goa 861, 879 Isha Yoga Center 1111 Khajuraho 686 Leh 307 McLeod Ganj 374 Mumbai 793 Mysore 918 Puducherry 1074-5 Pushkar 197 Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute 849 Rishikesh 477 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Dhanwantari Ashram 988 Udaipur 218 Varanasi 446 Yuksom 602, 603 Yumthang Valley 607 Z Zainabad 775 Zangla 298 Zanskar 296-8 festivals 300 trekking 298 Zingchen 319 Ziro Valley 624 zoos Darjeeling 553 Junagadh 761 Katraj Snake Park & Zoo 848 Kolkata 516 Lucknow 430 Nainital 490 Nandankanan 651-2 Thiruvananthapuram 983-5 zorbing 113, 363 Zoroastrianism 73, 789

1242 GREENDEX GreenDex The following organisations have been selected by our authors because they demonstrate a commitment to sustainability. We ve selected restaurants that have an organic focus or refill water bottles with safe, drinkable water and use local produce, funnelling profits back into the community. We ve listed businesses and not-for-profits for diverse reasons: some use solar power and have composting toilets; others support refugees by providing them with employment or reinvest profits into local groups. Ecolodges and trekking organisations that take care of the natural environment and minimise our impact on it are also mentioned here. For more green tips, see Responsible Trekking (p114). If you think we ve omitted someone here, email us at www.lonelyplanet.com/contact. For more information about sustainable tourism and Lonely Planet, see www.lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel. GOA accommodation Backwoods Camp 872 activities Barracuda Diving 877 Yoga Magic 883 attractions Savoi Plantation 872 environmental organisations Goa Foundation 867 food Blue Planet 897 volunteering El Shaddai 875 Goa Animal Welfare Trust 875 International Animal Rescue 875 HARYANA & PUNJAB accommodation Mrs Bhandari s Guest House 273 HIMACHAL PRADESH accommodation Ecosphere 393 shopping Bhuttico 356 Norbulingka Institute 381 Stitches of Tibet 379 Tibetan Handicrafts Cooperative Centre 379 volunteering Gu Chu Sum 376 Lha 376 Tibetan Children s Village 373 Tibetan Welfare Office 376 Volunteer Tibet 376 KARNATAKA accommodation Cicada Kabini 926 Kabini River Lodge 926 Kadkani 929 Rainforest Retreat 929 ecotourism Jungle Lodges & Resorts Ltd 900 Kishkinda Trust 944 KERALA accommodation Bethsaida Hermitage 992 KOLKATA ecotourism Help Tourism 507 shopping Ankur Kala 528 Ashalayam 528 Women s Friendly Society 528 MADHYA PRADESH & CHHATTISGARH crafts Saathi 724 volunteering Sambhavna Trust 691 ORISSA ecotourism Grass Routes Journeys 655 RAJASTHAN accommodation Apani Dhani 191 Shakhawati Guest House 191 shopping Anokhi 180 Fabindia 180 SIKKIM accommodation Dungmali Guest House 596 Hidden Forest 592 TAMIL NADU accommodation Cardamom House 1108 Raintree 1052 crafts Cottage Crafts 1108 Mr Kathirval 1087 environmental organisations Keystone Foundation 1112 shopping Fabindia 1077 Green Shop 1117 Kasha ki Aasha 1077 wildlife conservation Crocodile Bank 1059 Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Wildlife Sanctuary 1108 UTTAR PRADESH accommodation Uma Guesthouse 447 food Brown Bread Bakery 450 volunteering Sankat Mochan Foundation 446 wildlife conservation Wildlife SOS 409