Dear friends, A study has shown that more than 50 percent of the area of Phewa Lake has been lost over the past five decades. 1 This aroused my curiosity to see the lost parts of the lake. I hiked in the east side of the lake and the Harpan River plain northwesterly (a red line on Map). F E C B A D Map of the northwestern part of Phewa Lake and the Harpan River plain (Google map, accessed May 14, 2012) Along the lakeshore in the northern part of Phewa Lake (Area A), I saw an area that would have been a part of the lake decades ago. In the area, a hotel was already built (Photos 1). I also saw an area that is becoming earth (Photos 2). Photos 1: Land that would have been a part of Phewa Lake: Area A (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) 1
Photos 2: Area that is becoming earth: Area A (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) Near the northern end of the lake (Area B), there is flat land that might have been created by erosion and sedimentation. The area is a popular landing site for paragliders (Photos 3). In this part of the lake, there are aquaculture activities (Photos 4), and, by the lake, there are many restaurants serving dishes of fish cultured/taken from the lake. The restaurants made of bamboo and straw are simple and exotic (Photos 5). Photos 3: Paragliding landing site in the northern part of Phew Lake (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) Photos 4: Aquaculture in the northern part of Phewa Lake (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) 2
Photos 5: Restaurants by the northern part of Phewa Lake (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) After about 3 hours of walking, I reached the northwestern end of Phewa Lake (Area C) (Photos 6). The area is highly vegetated, and is like a marsh. It is apparent that the area receives very high nutrient loadings. Photos 6: Northwestern end of Phewa Lake (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) 3
After three and a half hours of walking, I finally reached one of the destinations; the mouth of the Harpan River, where the river discharges to Phewa Lake (Area D) (Photos 7). I saw a large area of sediment deposition at the mouth. Note that it was still a dry season: I may not be able to reach this area during a rainy season. Photos 7: At the mouth of the Harpan River; Area D (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) To the north of the lake, there is a vast flat plain (Photos 8). This plain must have been a part of Phewa Lake many decades ago. It appears that, since the lake was created, a large amount of sediments has been carried by the Harpan River and its tributaries, and deposited at the mouth of the river. When the mouth was filled with sediments, it moved southeasterly in the lake, continuing sediment deposition. This process is being continued, creating more earth. Photos 8: Plain: view from the mouth of the Harpan River to the northwesterly direction (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) 4
In a southeastern part of the plain (Area D), some areas were tilled to grow crops (Photos 9), and the other parts are too wet to be cultivated (Photos 10). Photos 9: Tilled land near the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) Photos 10: Wetland near the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) Further north (Area E), the plain was much drier and either tilled for crops (Photos 11) or used as grazing lands for cows and water buffalos (Photos 12). Photos 11: Men tilling land near the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) 5
Photos 12: Water buffalos grazing by the Harpan River and bathing in the in the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) Further upstream of the Harpan River (Area F), I saw a bridge crossing the river (Photos 13). Near the bridge, women were washing clothes in the river where water buffalos were bathing (Photo 14). Photos 13: A bridge over the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) Photo 14: Women doing laundry in the river where water buffalos are bathing (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) 6
Due to heavy usages of the land and the river, water appears to be enriched with nutrients as indicated by floating scum layers at the edge of the river (Photos 15). Due to uncontrolled agricultural practices, undoubtedly soils can enter the river during a rainy (high flow) season. Photos 15: Scum in the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 1012) After a half-day of walking, I ended my trip at the bridge as thunderclouds were moving in. Appendix A: A flat plain: a probable lost area of Phewa Lake mainly due to sediment deposition. A white line indicates a probable lost area of Phewa Lake (Google map, accessed May 14, 2012) A part of the probable lost area of Phewa Lake (Photo by Sato June 11, 2012) 7
Appendix B: behind the scene I walked through small towns (villages) where I met local people. Photo B1: A woman selling fish on a roadside, North of Phewa Lake, Pokhara, Nepal (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) Photo B2: A little girl walking in the middle of main street in a town of two dozen of houses, north of Phewa Lake, Pokhara, Nepal (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) B3: Many women clearing a waterway by removing aquatic plants from the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 16, 2012) B4: A local woman and a pile of duck weeds (Photo by Sato, May 16, 2012) B5: A section of the river after clearing of duck weeds (Photo by Sato, May 16, 2012) 8
Because the Harpan River meanders through the plain, it is faster to get to a destination using a raft (if a destination is known). Photos B6: A raft crossing the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) Photos B7: Me crossing the Harpan River using a raft (Photo by Sato, May 16, 2012) At shallow sections of the river, crossing on foot is a feasible option. Photos B8: Me crossing the Harpan River (left) and drying my pants (right) (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) 9
Water buffalos are gentle and shy animals. I came face-to-face with them many times. They just looked at me and waited patiently until I went on my way. B9: My encounter with water buffalos (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) Photos B10: Water buffalos in the Harpan River (Photo by Sato, May 12, 2012) 10
At north end of Phewa Lake, a dog started following me. Initially, I ignored her, and then I tried to make it difficult for her to follow me by walking through obstacles. Even with my tireless efforts, I had to give up eventually and let her come with me. I called her Bud. She was about one year old and very playful, and made me nervous when she tried to herd water buffalos. Though, she understood when I said You, a bad dog! Bud became my best and only friend in the plain. However, the good time came with a price. She did not understand when I said I can t take you with me. I had to lead her astray. Sadly I cannot go to the same place again, since she may be there and still remember me. Photos B11: Bud (Photos by Sato, May 16, 2012) Reference 1 JICA/SILT (2002). Conservation Development Study on the environmental conservation of Phewa Lake in Pokhara, Nepal. Final report submitted ny SILT Consultants to JICA/Nepal, Kathmandu. 11