FACE TO FACE WITH SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM PILGRIMAGE OF KAILAS-MANSAROVAR

FACE TO FACE WITH SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM PILGRIMAGE OF KAILAS-MANSAROVAR Kailas-Mansarovar pilgrimage is not only most important yatra but also most difficult one. In fact, rewards of yatra are in proportion to its hardship. One meaning of Kailas is heaven. Some people use the word kailasvasi for departed persons, meaning thereby that departed persons now reside in heaven. Talking about me, from early childhood I had fascination for religious things. I was always desirous of visiting holy places. Because of my religious bent and keen desire to visit holy places, I could visit many places like Gangotri, Jamanotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath, Amarnath and Vaishnodevi. Such yatras which began at a very early stage of my life still continues. In the beginning it was more for enjoying nature like climbing mountains, trekking, enjoying the Himalayas from as near as physically possible, walking in open air along the river banks etc. Gradually this love for nature turned into devotion and reverence. It began to have religious influence. In this activity, I had full co-operation, confidence and affection from my family. Your own family member shri Samajibhai Patel performed the pilgrimage with me in the year 2004. With his co-operation and also that of senior members of Kachhi-Samaj, I attempt to take you all through the pilgrimage, not physically but by my narration. I hope that it inspires you to perform the pilgrimage. I was 18 when I performed first pilgrimage of Kailas-Mansarovar, probably being the youngest female yatri to perform the yatra then. During that time travel was more demanding than it is today. I had to trek nearly 400 km to complete the yatra. Now it is not so tough if Nepal route is used. This route has a jeep able road up to Mansarovar. This year, God willing, it might be possible to perform yatra by helicopter. After my first yatra in 1994, I was fortunate that I could do it many more times. After each of such yatra my mind used to be submerged in thought of mighty Himalayas and used to have the feeling of achieved something enduring. Gradually it occurred to me to help others to perform this yatra. I began giving information about yatra to pilgrims from Gujarat. For this I used my photographs and slides. Subsequently I organized my own groups and traveled with them. My desire was to be helpful to them and to encourage them during tough times of yatra. In this I was deriving inner satisfaction. Centuries before our people left their motherland in search of better opportunities. Though living in alien country and culture, they cling to their own despite many obstacles. Indian festivals are celebrated with full gaiety and saptahas find full participation. I therefore, thought it timely to encourage our countrymen to undertake the yatra. More particularly for those of our countrymen who desire to live with nature and experience spirituality residing therein. It is necessary that our countrymen visit holy places where it is easy and familiar to gain knowledge of our scriptures. This knowledge they can then pass onto younger generation. My humble attempt is with that objective and in that direction. Page 1

With the hope and wish that many of you may get inspired to undertake the yatra I am writing this article. I have sincere desire and earnest prayer that I may succeed in this humble attempt of showing you benefits of: taking mind away from worldly affairs to meditation, going away from noisy life of city to life of solitude and clean air, from worldly affairs to heavenly heights, from darkness to light. In short, experience of indescribable bliss. Have we ever sincerely tried to come out of our egotistic existence? Have we ever tried to observe our real self and its true meaning? Who are we? Where are we going? Where we wish to go? What we desire to achieve? How far are we from our chosen goal? The moment you begin to ask such questions, it is the beginning of change for good. I remember a small line of bhajan which everyone must have heard: Bhagavan, kindly lead me to light from darkness. Various means are adopted to experience the Bliss. Visiting temples, Undertaking fasts, worships and wearing of amulets, tantrik ceremony, are few of such means. But such means do not lead to the goal. But Bliss is not received by mind or intellect. For experiencing that one has to come out of his limited existence and try to merge with infinite. This is easier to achieve in solitude where you are way from worldly disturbances. And this requires taking first bold step. So I urge you to go away from hustle and bustle of city life and go to a place where there is nothing between you and nature. All these years we have been busy in mundane affairs. May be we have acquired wealth, but what is its use if we still feel we lack something. For fulfilling that gap we must visit rivers, mountains, which inspire awe in us. Himalaya is one such place. By its very name we, Indians, feel a current passing through us. For us, Himalaya is as pious as great rishes of ancient times. Himalaya is more than 1600 miles long and 200 miles wide at some places. Many great souls have performed tapasya on this holy mountain and gained indescribable peace and bliss. Such great souls of past have left behind immense spiritual influence which brings up spirituality in devotees coming here. It is like lasing effect of fragrance of flower or incense. Likewise, around Himalaya, everywhere, there are spiritual vibrations. Pilgrims do come under their benevolent influence. I believe that, of all the holy places in Himalayan region, Kailas-Mansarovar is supreme in importance. Kailas means Heaven and Its pilgrimage has highest religious and spiritual importance. It is the ultimate of all yatras. Most people postpone doing this pilgrimage till after their all worldly obligations are fulfilled. But for many it would be too late health wise. Body might not be willing though mind would be. Turning to religion at the late age would not be easy, so one should think of it early in life. Speaking about me: I am about 30 years of age. In last few years I have observed beneficial changes in my life as a result of my many yatras of religious places. I wish to convey this message to youngsters like me. So let us begin. I will share with you my experience of these yatras; I will describe beautiful scenes, difficulties and memorable events experienced by me. Page 2

Kailas-Mansarovar is situated in Tibet which is now part of China, so one needs Chinese visa for entering Tibet. Altitude of entire Tibet is between 12,000 and 16,000 feet. Tibet is also known as roof of world due to this height. Tibet is verily a land of gods of many religions like Hinduism, Jainism, Buddhism, etc. For Hindus it is very important as Kailas is located here. Bhagawan Shankar resides in Kailas. Mansrovar is holy lake from which four mighty rivers originate giving sustenance to all kinds of life on their way to sea. Once you enter Tibet you are in Shankar Bhagawan s area. We will know more as we progress in this narration. Holy Mountain Kailas is the abode of Lord Shivji. It is also a dwelling place for gods and truly it is Heaven. It is also known as Sumeru Parvat. Gitaji teaches us, MERU SHIKHARNAM SAHAM Tulsidasji writes, Eternally beautiful Lord of mountains- Kailas, where Umaji and Shivji reside for ever. According to scriptures of Tibet, 22,028 feet high Kailas is the flagstaff around which whole universe revolves: from where all spiritual vibrations spread. From here Brahmaji creates the universe, Lord Vishnu preserves and Lord Shivji dissolves. It takes three days for parikrama of the holy mountain. From here four mighty rivers begin their long journey through many lands. They are Brahmaputra, Satlaj, Karnali and Indus. Anyone, may he be Hindu, Muslim, Christian or Buddhist, loses his worldly identity here. In the holy atmosphere of this place he experiences moments of supreme reality. From ancient times it is reverently held that Mansarovar was created by Lord of Universe Brahma. He did this with help of his cosmic power. It is situated at about 4572 m (15,000 feet) above sea. It has maximum depth of 91 m (300 feet), area of 518 sq.km (200 sq. miles) and circumference of about 87 km (54 miles). One is at loss of words in describing splendors of nature seen in waters of Mansarovar. Few years back it was difficult to reach this holy place. But now one can do it with it without much strain. From Nepal there is jeep-able road up to Mansarovar. We will continue our narration in next article. In the meanwhile, if you have any questions on this presentation, you are requested to contact me by e-mail at vaishu@icenet.net or pvaishu@hotmail.com. You can also contact me at following phone numbers between 2 pm & 8 pm (London Time): Tel: 001-905-840-2511 Cell: 001-416-509-2510 Page 3

OM NAMAH SHIVAY Most of the time I begin my conversation with, OM NAMAH SHIVAY. This practice I follow when I am with yatris in yatra and also while talking to them on phone. You are also my fellow yatris and so I begin this presentation with uttering Om Namah Shivay. There is always some strain involved during yatra even if jeep is used. But we all know that for achieving something hardship is necessary. Harder the journeys, sweeter are the rewards. More particularly, when we are looking forward to experiencing vibrant effects of the holy place. In this connection I recall what my fellow yatri told me during 1995 yatra. This yatra was through Indian route which involved trekking of more than 300 km. The track would go through rolling hills, tracks interspersed with boulders, tracks as narrow as razors edge, slushy and muddy patches, crossing freezing cold rivulets and sometimes thorny paths. On this entire track Madhuben would walk without shoes. I was surprised at her endurance. So I asked her, Madhuben, we are using woolen socks and very expensive shoes and still feel discomfort. How can you do this without shoes? She would say, Vaishu, you are young but in this young age you would realize that when we surrender ourself to Almighty ignoring I we experience bliss. I get hurt while trekking barefoot, but I consider it as gift from my God. And having said this she would continue her journey. Madhuben left indelible impression on my mind. Then there was Bhai Radhakishan from south India. He was trying since 7 years to perform yatra but due to financial difficulty he could not do it. He even took a vow not to enjoy married life though married for last five years. Finally he secured some loan and joined our group with a small sack on his head. There are quite a few such examples. I remember one evening when we were camping at Darchen (15,000 ft) which is the base camp for journey to Kailas. We were having evening prayers. Then we did bhajan-kirtan. I took out my kirtaal and started dhoon. We all were so absorbed in dhoon; I was lead singer that the room became so warm that we had to go in open despite cold. I was so absorbed in recitation of dhun that I did not realize that I was losing consciousness. I could faintly hear someone saying, Shankardada is inspiring Vaishu s dhun, some thought I was doing tandav dance. All the time I was fully absorbed in singing dhun. Only next day I came to know that we are out in the open for nearly two hours. I had not covered myself with any worm clothing. Even then I did not feel cold. Such was the warmth of dhun. I cannot adequately describe this event dark night, moon light falling on snow covered Kailas. Yatris saw divine presence amongst us and in such atmosphere tears roll down from eyes of many yatris. Since last several years I am taking on this yatra our countrymen residing in India and abroad. In 2003 batch there were many yatris. Among them there was Jayaben & Suryakantbhai Desai about 74 years of age. Before joining the yatra, they would call me frequently and ask, Beta, we are aged but we have strong will and faith. Do you think we can make it? I would reply, Ba & dadaji, I have inner feeling that you should not have any problem I was impressed by their faith, enthusiasm and Page 4

great interest in life. They performed the yatra successfully. This first yatra encouraged them to undertake another one very next year. I was deeply touched when Mangalaba of 86, her son Bhaveshbhai & her grandson Dhruv of 14 joined the yatra. Even today grandmother and grandson do yatra. They are clinging to their culture though residing in London. We had Samajibhai & Naranbhai Bhudia in the yatra. They were remarkable in their sympathy for all yatris in the batch and they would always be looking forward to an opportunity to be of help to others. Seeing them help others was very emotional experience. When we commenced yatra we were 30 but on return we were just one. Such is the solidarity that develops during yatra. Thus such yatras are useful in helping to learn sympathy, being helpful to others in addition to uplifting the self religiously and spiritually. If one has determination, age is not the constraint. If Mangalaba of 86, Dhruv of 14 and Madhav of 11 can do it, many of us can do it. All yatris after return do not talk about hardships of yatra. They all say, We had great experience. Almighty Lord remained with us all along. While performing our worldly duties our mind is covered with many layers worries, ignorance etc. Once we have left that behind our mind becomes quiet like waters of Mansarovar and in that solitude we think of nothing but the God. In that mental state we just wish to be with Nature, and not with our social commitments. Even today I cannot stop my tears when I think of my first dip in Mansarovar. One bright sun in the sky was being seen as thousands of equally bright Suryadev in crystal like waters of Mansarovar. In the ripples of water one could see thousands of images of sun. The view was so brilliant that I was instantly drawn to it. I did not remain aware of cold water and cold surrounding. Experience of taking dip is overwhelming. Only those who have taken such dip can know the bliss. It is indeed a great experience. We need not perform any religious duties like sandhya etc. We just chant Om. On chanting Om whole body feels a thrill and tears of joy roll down. Waters of Mansarovar give different views at different times. At times it appears as if surrounding ice capped mountains are propped up by it. One can observe through crystal clear waters, thousands of small pebbles and gravel resting on the floor. One gets the feeling of minute shivalingas in each of these pebbles. Then, on moonlit night beauty is entirely splendid. It is believed that even gods come down to take a dip on such days. Luckily when I was there it was full moon night. So after collecting small shivalingas in my bag, I sat on the waterfront to witness the cosmic events. It was cold and very windy. But I was determined to have good darshan. Slowly the moon came out of sarorvar and began reflecting in the water. Then stars and constellation began their dipping in the samovar. At this magnificent view eyes did not even want to wink. Mind believed that these were the devas. Without effort one was one with the surrounding completely unaware of self. All doubts disappeared. Only mind was saying, Lord, do as you please, give me happiness or give me misery. Now both are same to me. Everything is SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM Page 5

Darchen, located at 15,000 ft, is base camp for Kailas yatra. One gets good view of Kailas while doing circuit of Kailas. One gets darshan of Linga below the Jaldhari of blue sky. One feels blessed and fulfilled after completing this yatra. It gives immense satisfaction as one might have waited for years or may be many births for doing the yatra. It takes three days for completing the round. FIRST DAY: First eight km can be done by jeep. Then trekking of about 12 km. As this is parikrama, holy Kailas will be on our right. In the surrounding area one can see many objects related to Shivji. I have seen Tripund shivling, Cobra head, Trishul, Umaji and Ganeshji. You see forms matching to your thoughts. As said before four rivers originate from here. It takes about eight hours for trekking these 12 km. When we reached to our camp at Derapuk I was spellbound with the vision of mighty Shivalinga before me. It is not surprising then that there are no man-made temples on the Holy Mountain. And as there are no temples, there are no idols nor any necessity of priests. The Holy Mountain Itself is a temple. It has horizon as Its walls and sky as Its dome. How shall we pray here; who will perform the worship; whom shall we worship; what gift shall we give; Such are the dilemma faced by pilgrims At night few yatris had difficulty due to light air. But by the sun rise next day all were fresh again. SECOND DAY: With sunlight Shankardada had put on crown of gold. We were again blessed with good Darshan. Derapuk is at 16,000 ft. Now we have to reach to 19,500 ft. Dolmala is located at this height. It is the ultimate point of yatra. Climbing to that height is tough. Breathing is very hard and crossing each boulder on way felt like climbing a mountain. But with faith it becomes easy. One gets a feeling that Lord Himself comes to your rescue, holding your hand, helping you to complete the yatra. All yatris chant Om Namah Shivay. This chant also helps. My friends and sherpas are always there to help needy. They lift yatris for crossing big boulders. They encourage yatris. I keep supplying dry-fruits, chocolates to yatris. Finally group reaches Dolmala. Our worldly life is troubled with ego, hate, lust, passion, greed, hypocrisy etc. We are always occupied in making and increasing wealth. Many a times we are envious of people ahead of us and we spend our time in trying to bring them down. Ignoring all these traits we put up a show of being good and compassionate. But when we visit holy places like KAILAS-MANSAROVAR we begin to see our real mind. Holy Mount becomes the mirror in which our real self is seen. Dolmala is such place. And we feel encouraged to live a life of values. Lord will judge what we gain here. Little below Dolmala there is small lake, Gaurikund. It is at about 18,000 ft. I believe this is the only lake at this height. After this there is steep descent of about 6 km. Then there is walk on flat land before reaching the camp. All yatris feel relieved after reaching this place having completed the toughest part of yatra. Hot soup with papad is served here. THIRD DAY: After walking about 12 km on flat terrain one comes back to Derapuck camp. One feels like spending some time in solitude as with this yatra has come to end. Page 6

FRIENDS, OM NAMAH SHIVAY! There are quite a few routes for Kailas Yatra. Three of them are comparatively systematic and have some travel facilities. First Route: Delhi Dharchula Lipulekh Pass Kailas: Government of India conduct yatra on this route. It is open for Indian Passport Holder. It takes about 30 days and trekking of about 300 km.: Second Route: Nepal Lhasa Kailas: This route is available to everyone. This yatra s route is Delhi Katmandu Lhasa Kailas. From Lhasa it takes five days to reach Kailas. Complete yatra takes 20-22 days. Third Route: Nepal Kailas: This route is available to everyone. Complete yatra takes about 18 days. First two days are spent in Katmandu for acclimatization. This period is also utilized for visiting Pashupatinath and other places of religious importance. Nepal Visa: Everyone other than Indian passport holder needs Nepal visa. You can get it in your country or you can get it at Katmandu airport. It is a simple procedure taking just 15 minutes. Most yatris take visa at the airport. Muktinath: For yatris taking Nepal route, it is suggested that they reach Nepal four days ahead of Kailas yatra. They can visit Muktinath in this time. Muktinath has very ancient temple of Vishnu Bhagvan. Vishnu Bhagvan is also worshiped in form of Shaligram. Here one gets genuine shaligrams. Along with spiritual environment, here there is congregation of five elements earth, water, air, fire and sky. Next to main temple there is Jwalamayi temple. Behind this temple there are 100 cow heads. Continuously water pour out of them. Many people place the water on head and also partake it as prasad. Entering the temple is like entering Vrundavan. Usually, at 12,000 ft. it is difficult to find trees. But nature has bestowed it to this holy place. Bhagavan Swaminaraya at the age of eleven visited this place and performed austerity and meditation. Page 7

Earlier it was bit difficult to reach this place. But now it is better. There are two routes. First: Katmandu Pokhara Jomsam(air) Muktinath. Second: Katmandu Pokhara Muktinath Pokhara In the first route one can take bus or plane from Katmandu to Pokhara. From Pokhara to Jomsam it is air travel. From Jomsom it is 21 km trekking and climbing to Muktinath. Night halt is in Ranipova which is not far from temple. After having darshan next day one begins descent by trekking back 21 km. In the second route travel up to Pokhara is same as first route. Then it is helicopter travel between Pokhara Muktinath Pokhara. Return to Kathmandu by plane. Helicopter travel gives good view of snow capped Himalaya. One can have dershan of many holy peaks. You are most welcome to contact me for any information on Kailas or Muktinath yatras. In last years many yatris from England have performed the yatra. You can get information from them also. Do give time in exercising body, cultivate mental strength and with soul searching prayers, think of doing the yatra. I end my narration with an earnest wish that Almighty Lord may help you to take the yatra. I seek your forgiveness if I have erred in giving above information. Kindly pardon me considering that I am your daughter or younger sister. It is difficult to describe the experiences of yatra in its entirety. What I have presented is a small part. SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM Page 8