No Place To Call Home

Transcription

1 No Place To Call Home Edward Lyman, Susan Ward Payne, S. George Ellsworth Published by Utah State University Press Lyman, Edward & Payne, Ward & Ellsworth, George. No Place To Call Home: The Life Writings of Caroline Barnes Crosby, Chronicler of Outlying Mormon Communities. Logan: Utah State University Press, Project MUSE., For additional information about this book No institutional affiliation (17 Jan :34 GMT)

2 Chapter Five Across the Plains to Salt Lake Valley Journal, 10 May to 12 October 1848 [Leaving Bentonsport, Iowa] Wed May 10th 1848 left North Bentonsport crossed the Desmoine put up at Br Moore s waited untill the next Monday for com, but no one being ready we concluded to [illegible crossout] proceed alone. Accordingly about 9 oclock we started, br and Sis Moore accompanied us almost to Merits. Bathia came down to bid us farewell, came with [us] beyond the schoolhouse. I felt bad to part with her, could not refrain from tears, was also much affected when I parted with Sis Moore, she was very kind to us while we stayed there. My health was poor, scarcely able to wait on myself sis M treated me with the affection of a sister, which I hope I shall never forget. Our team was rather wild we were fearful that they would not be sufficient for our load, but they did much better than we expected travelled on untill 3 or 4 oclock when it commenced raining which made it muddy and slippery, we concluded not to travel in the rain, but just before we were ready to stop the cattle landed us safely into a mud hole from which we could not extricate ourselves untill the next morn. while he was meditating where to go for help he accidentally beheld a large old yoke of oxen grazing near us, and after consulting a couple of german who were at work near by took them as they were ready yoked and with the help of our old cattle hauled out the waggon. We then came on smoothly to indian creek where we put up for the night in hopes some one would come along to accompany us, but no one arrived, we accordingly proceeded on our way to fox river had some difficulty in the forenoon got set once had to partialy unload the waggon, loaded up went on a piece got hitched against a root hindred us some time arrived within a mile of String town a little before sunset stoped for the night found brother Levi Allred living close bye. 69

3 70 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby Route from Nauvoo, Illinois, to Salt Lake Valley, Thursday morning had an addition of a calf to our stock which hindered us through the day. Friday morning started on, carried the calf a greater part of the day, Friday night stoped on the prairie near a well, got mired in a mud hole just this side of the well. unloaded part of our things. Saturday came on through Drakesville lost our way, went down to Fox river bottoms got stalled again, had to unload, again it rained while we were there, such a time as we had I never experienced before, it hindred us half a day; got back into the right way came on to a new road staid over night near an old farmers, very friendly people, offered to let us sleep in their house, let us through their field to shun a bad hill. Sunday morning pursued our journey fell in co with Kire and Dukes son were glad to find co. Jimy swung his hat when he saw us and rejoiced. Sunday we had a good day s travel came within 4 miles of soap creek staid near a farmer by the name of Foster late from Missouri very sociable and friendly. Monday about 9 oclock PM arrived at Soap, found a tremendous bad hill to come down got through safely, found a co camped there from Iowaville passed them and went on to the open prairie stop d over night took a cold supper and breakfast next morning, came on to a spring where was a man building a house, found br Jolly and Millets family there, stoped and got a warm dinner, rested our teams and then came on to another farmhouse, put up for the night, soon after our arrival, we were joined by 8 waggons, 5 from Iowaville and 3 from near Montrose, which with our two, made 10 in all. Wed 24th came on with our large co stoped at noon in the prairie to bait and rest our teams, the wind commences blowing looks likely to rain,

4 May high wind all the afternoon & much rain. Wed night staid at Sheridan point found Dack and one other family living there. Thursday 25th came on to another point of timber near Sheridan river, very warm day some of their cattle gave out had to stop till near night. 26th Friday morn one of our oxen went off had to hunt a long time, found him on a mile ahead of us. Friday forenoon passed the road that led to Garden grove came onto a bad ravine had to get help d through, came on till noon, <saw the place where a woman was killed by a waggon running over her, and buried by the side of the road,> stoped to rest in the open prairie, no water near came on to a little stream called white breast put up for night, had a little prayer meeting, it seemed quite natural to get to a mormon meeting once more they all seemed to rejoice that they had got liberated from the gentiles once more. Saturday very windy, felt quite unwell all day. Sat night staid within 7 miles of Pisgah. [Pisgah, Iowa] Sunday, came on a way hard rain accompanied with thunder and lightning, stoped near little creek 4 miles from Pisgah untill the rain was over, Came on through Pisgah road very muddy nothing seemed very pleasant to me, called at Cluff s saw br Grover which were all that I knew Jimmy Duke and br Kire got in just before us and took another road so that I had no chance to bid them farewell. Crossed a branch of Grand river very bad bridge had to ford. a few miserable looking log cabins in P[isgah], and some of the raggedest children I ever saw, I went into Cluffs they were all very comfortably clad Sister Cluff shed tears when she told me she had heard by some of our co that her son Moses who had been at work in Iowaville was going off on a steam boat. In P we passed Merkly and Conly who had been waiting a day or two for com. came on seven miles stoped near a stream staid one day to wash and bake. Monday were joined by Merkly and Conly, two br father Shearer and Gould met us direct from the bluffs 1 had a meeting father Shearer spoke some time on the necessity of prayer and other Christian duties after which fa Gould gave us a brief sketch of his travels, to the valle which was very interesting, and concluded by exhorting us to be of one mind, and keep the commandments of God. Tuesday proceeded on our journey about 20 miles fine day for travelling staid in the great prairie where was no wood we all brought a little enough boil tea kettle. Tunigth met another waggon from the bluffs. Wednesday the last day of may pleasant cool day for travelling have just stoped for noon all in good health and spirits crossed seve[r]al bad

5 72 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby ravines to day, just crossed quite a stream fork of grand river another broad prairie before us, staid in the great prairie Wed night. [A Visit to the Indian Graves] June 1st Thursday drove very hard all day crossed several bad ravines and bridges arrived very late at Indian town, staid near to the Misery Botoms. Visited the indian graves, curiosities to me. Friday morn June 2nd, visited the indian graves the great curiosity respecting them was that of two infants coffins which had been put up in trees, one had fallen down and broke open, they were each made of two troughs, the child was laid in one and the other composed the lid, nothing remained of the child but some few bones, the skull was very plain to be seen, the blanket and beads and a ladle were also in complete preservation. We crossed the Misery bottoms again and traveled on very smoothly met two brethren from the bluffs. Phineas Kimball was one he brought me a line from sis P. the other I did not know. stoped for night near where some brethren have stoped to make claims. 2 Saturday morn all hands in search of cattle, looks likely to rain, two days drive from the bluffs. Saturday night stoped at Silver creek had a hard rain to day roads very bad arrived late at our stoping place found quite a settlement of brethren here, a fiddler came in to the camp, set some of them to dancing. I have had the headache all the afternoon cannot enjoy their mirth very well. [Arrival at Winter Quarters (Kanesville), June 4, 1848] Sunday June 4th arrived safely in winter quarters, camped two miles from the tabernacle. 3 feel very anxious to go on but fear we are not suitably prepared. Met br Phineas Young just moved over from the other side of the river. his wife is sick been so for more than a year, looks very bad. Monday morn very cold wind, disagreeable being out, heard sis P has gone. expect I shall not see her untill we get to the valley. 4 Tuesday washed and ironed think we shall go ahead at all events. br Draper called on us told us where Marial Crosby lived. Wednesday we visited her found her quite comfortably situated, appeared very glad to see us. made her a short visit. Harlan came home with us and staid over night. 5 Thursday brother Merkly gone to winter quarters to get counsel whether to stop here untill the company gets ready to start, or go over to winter quarters and wait there. 6 We understand the indians are troublesome there, have killed one of our brethren and wounded another. Sunday June 11th Father Bullock and wife came along and offered to carry me to meeting, I went heard [Almon] Babbitt speak on the origin

6 June of the priesthood, and the proceedings of the trustees in Nauvoo. After which Br [Joseph L.] Haywood spoke, and was followed by George A Smith, who justified them, and said he believed they had done the best they could. All hands requested to go and hunt Indians. Saturday previous Merkly returned, his horses stolen by indians. had been trailing them 2 days, nothing to be found of them, has to part his family, sends his wife and son on to the vally, stays himself untill another year. Tuesday Hutchinson and wife called to see us, promised to come and make us a visit the next day, next morning Huchinson had a bad fit, could not come, she came in the afternoon, made us an agreeable visit. Wednesday a company of 13 wagons arrived from Montrose among which was Daniel Jackson s Thursday left Musketoe creek, came within 2 miles of the ferry, found a good camping place, where we stoped untill Saturday. A sister Tanner who had been over to the council house on a visit on her way home staid with us over night, and rode with us part of the afternoon. had quite an agreeable time with her found her an intelligent interesting woman. [Crossing the Missouri] Saturday june 17th arrived at the ferry had to wait untill sunday morn Merkly and Conly gone over our turn comes next. Found Samuel Richards and wife just came over from the other side going down 60 miles in Mo to live on a farm. he has latly returned from Europe on a 2 years mission, had the small pox is quite disfigured with it, her health very poor had the chills and fever for sometime. The wind rises begins to rain fear it will be bad crossing. went into the store this morn in co with sis Merkly, found nothing that I wanted. [Arrival at Winter Quarters (Nebraska), June 18, 1848] Sunday morning arrived safely at winter quarters called at br Hewitt s, staid, till towards night, came up to the camping ground, stoped near an old chimney where they told us John Parker formerly lived. Monday washed Tuesday commenced braiding a hat. Wednesday made crackers. Thursday rainy day, cold and unpleasant, felt sick all day in consequence of the hard days work the day before, Friday finished my hat, sis Merkly and I took a walk about town. Called at Phinehas Richards saw B Johnson s Also called at Nathan Tanner s, had quite an agreeable time. Sunday 25th very windy, baked bread in br Robinson s and prepared to leave on Monday, but did not get started untill Thursday, feel very anxious to get away from the flies and dirt which are almost intolerable.

7 74 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby [Leaving Winter Quarters, June 29, 1848] Thursday all hands begin to roll out, great rejoicing among us. All seem pleased to leave the Omahaw s lands, and the dirt cabins, which are only fit for such a race. Thursday night 29th stop d on a high prairie very pleasant arrived late probably about 80 wagons. 6 miles. Friday morn expect to stay here today, the co waiting for Dr [Willard] Richards. 7 Br Amasa [Lyman] is addressing the brethren. Sister Merkley and myself been taking a walk; yesterday her husband parted with her probably for a year, she feels quite dejected and unwell. [Elkhorn River, July 1, miles from W.Q. 8 ] Sat July 1st today all hands rolling out, going onto the horn [Elkhorn] 9 leave Dr Richards to come with another com. Br Lyman waited as long as he dares to, fears cold weather will over take us before we get through, last night we were much disturbed with the cattle, the guard had as much as they could do to keep them within bounds. Sunday the 2nd all crossed the horn formed a large circle with the sheep fold in the centre everything good order and harmony. Monday all washing and baking expect to wait 2 or 3 days for Dr Richards Wednesday a messenger arrived from him requesting us to wait untill Friday. Br A Lyman has consented to it Thursday night Dr R arrived with quite a large co and I understand not much order in it. 10 [Liberty Pole, July 7, 1848] Friday morn 7th day all preparing to go ahead, it appears that the 1st are to be last, and the last first as the scripture says. The camp are all in tolerable health I believe two children born since we stoped here. My health been rather poor, since It is a cool windy day good weather travelling Friday camped near platte river close by the liberty pole, sis Merkley and myself with several others inscribed our names on it. I understand it was erected by P P Pratt and J[ohn] Taylor, it is now filled with names nearly as high as they can reach, the platte is good water but rather rily. Saturday, July 8th 1848 all preparing roll on. When I first awoke this morn I imagined myself on a large farm with numerous flocks and herds about me of all descriptions, cocks crowing cows lowing sheep bleating and pigs squeeling, and to crown the music, children crying. Sat night staid near the platte again. 11 Sunday 9th rested and attended meeting. Br A Lyman read the rules of the camp and exhorted us to attend to religious duties and strive to live

8 July in peace one with another. Sunday night sister Tanner called to see us. Sis Baily sick with teethache had hands laid on her, I was called on to assist in taking care of her children. Mon 10th cool pleasant morn the old cow strayed from the camp probably gone to the other co. [Shell Creek, July 11, ¼ mi] Tuesday morn 11th cool air, very pleasant Last night the old cow had an heir, shall be obliged to carry it a day or two. Yesterday Nelson Merkly broke his wagon tongue, made a new one last night. We staid at a very pleasant camping place called shell creek, plenty of grapes. I gathered quite a quantity Wednesday the 5th co went ahead, the heat and dirt was almost insufferable, several pigs died and cattle almost gave out, we staid close to a little lake southside the road, having travelled 11 miles and ¾. [Beaver River, July 13, ¾ mi.] Thursday night staid at Beaver river, a very pleasant stream some of the cattle strayed to the other camp which caused bad feelings, but they were all in vain for they found them again before night, the next night day friday came to cedar creek, pass d the indian settlements, or where the Omahaws [illegible crossout] they had been burnt out by the sioux, 12 several of the Omahas came to our camp staid overnight. Capt [William] Crosby 13 fed and kept them to prevent their stealing. Sat 15th one mile from loup fork, it commences raining. crossed over the fork near an indian settlement, had plenty of visitors but not very agreeable ones, came on a mile or two staid over Sunday expected to have meeting, but all had to go and help Dr Ric[hards] co over, and the women had a washing party at loup fork beautiful soft water. Monday July 17th very warm morning, quite an alarm raised about indians thought they were driving off cattle several men went armed on horseback, but it was a false alarm. (Last night called on sis tanner her oldest daughter sick with ague, she gave me a piece of good cheese.) [Upper Ford of Loup Fork, July 17, ¾ mi.] Monday came on to loup fork near the upper ford the heat and dust almost suffocating Brs Lyman and Capt Flake went ahead and found a letter from the other comp. Found they were just one month before us, we have gained three days of them in coming from the horn. Tuesday morning cool and cloudy, have 20 miles to go to day and expect find no wood to night. Teusday night arrived in good season at our stopping place near

9 76 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby prairie creek, having had a cool comfortable day for travelling. Wednesday very warm have 10 miles to go to day, had a beautiful camping place last night, on a high prairie, entirely out of sight of tim[ber]. Wednesday night arrived late at our camping place having travelled much farther than we expected to in the morning we stoped about 4 miles west of wood river in an entirely new camping place, being almost worn out with the heat and dust. Capts Lyman and Flake went on a hunting excursion, got so far from the camp and being destitute of water they nearly perished with fatigue and thirst, their horses broke from them by being frightened with an antelope, which they caught they were discovered by Dr Richard and rescued from their almost perishing condition, br Lyman I understand was so far exhausted as to be deprived of reason. 14 [Platte River, July 20, ¼ mi.] Thursday July 20th 1848 came to the platte again, where the road descends to the low lands, having travelled 8 miles. Friday 21th[st] this morning they have been repairing wagons, have spent nearly half of the day, which has given us time to wash; the platte is rather hard or at least not as soft as loup fork. yesterday and today the weather has been quite comfortable. I understand that br Lyman is quite low yet, not able to speak above his breath. Our camping place is very beautifully situated on the platte, an excellent chance for cattle. Yesterday the prairie took fire by Capt [William] Crosby light a pipe and spread with great violence, the wind however being in our favor it passed by us without doing any material injury. Friday night stayed on the platte again, plenty of grass but no wood short of going to an island just opposite our camping place, it was quite a curiosity to see the men and boys wade the river, which is very wide, and return with old trees on their shoulders, so that we had a good supply of wood. Sat 22nd cool and cloudy, the camp preparing to take an early start. Last night the girls sung me to sleep with songs and hymns, quite a mixture of moral and religious music. Saturday travelled 20 miles, which kept us out untill near nine oclock at night, we then stoped far from timber, and were forbidden to make fires, on account of high winds and dry grass. Sunday morn 23rd winds still high were afraid to burn what little wood we picked up here and there probably flood wood, some went and dug fire places in the river s bank, it however abated towards noon so that by diging holes in the ground we ventured to make fires. Sunday the brethren killed an immense sight of wild game I believe 4 buffaloes and some 12 or 15 antelopes and deers which supplied both camps abundantly with fresh meat, and a great deal was dried to carry along. This morn we met a company returning from the Valley, principaly soldiers returning for

10 July their pay. 15 some of them left the vally the 8th june which make 45 days they have been coming. Monday morn 24th this morn they talk of dividing the companies into three division, the prospect is we shall have warm day. Tuesday 25th contrary to our expectations yesterday morn we have stay untill today, the council was sometime deciding upon our manner of travelling, none of our com were willing to leave and go into Dr Richards, they therefore decided that we should all travel together in a large body, for the present. We have 23 miles to go today, my health is quite poor, was very unwell yesterday, but feel better today. Wed 26th last nigth we arrived late at our camping place, had some rain towards evening, had to go to bed on a cold supper after being sick all day, took pills last night, feel better this morning, think I am troubled with the kidney and liver complaint. Yesterday I invited sister Riettchie [spelling unclear] a doctress woman to come in and see me: She thought she could help me if she could find the roots she wanted, but feared she could not. This morning the weather is remarkably cold for the season, have 20 miles to go. [Tragic Accident] Thursday 27th Yesterday a very sad accident occured in the camp one of Sidney Tanner s little boys was killed almost instantly by a wagon wheel runing over him, he appeared like a very forward smart child for one of his age, was between 6 and 7 years was driving team sitting on the tongue and fell backwards. Friday the 28th cool and cloudy, correlled near the river last night, plenty of buffalo chips, but no wood. This morning they are burying the child, have brought it thus far along to find a proper burying place. There are high bluffs here some distance from the river. Friday came a short distance correlled near the river ^tremendous hard shower.^ Saturday all hands washing, baking and hunting. Satu eve terrible storm of wind and rain, hunters had a bad time, did not return untill late at night, sis Merkley slept with me in consequence of her wagon being gone after buffalo Sunday we still continued our labours ^washing and cooking^ as we expect to see no more wood at present. In the evening the counsel held a meeting to organize travelling companies. We are in the second co led by Capt [Andrew] Cunningham I believe there are some little feelings, with some of the old women and girls, for one I am quite passive on the subject, notwithstanding my former acquaintances are principly in the other co s. 16 Mon 31st All preparing to leave Dr Richards takes the lead, we are in the centre; br Lyman brings up the rear. Mon night camped on skunk

11 78 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby creek a very pleasant little stream. Dr R s co just opposite us, a plenty of buffalo chips to cook with, and fine chance for the cattle. [Buffalo at the Platte, Aug. 1, mi.] Aug 1st; this morn we were visited by a large herd of buffalo, but they all escaped unhurt. It is a fine pleasant morning. Tuesday night, came 15 miles correlled close to the platte, heard the buffalo bellowing, and wolves 17 howling all night, thousands of them to be seen on the opposite shore, but out of the reach of the hunters, had a hard shower of rain. We however succeeded in getting a fire made and teakettle boiled. Br Luce s wagon broke down to day had to distribute his load among our ten. Wednesday 2nd cool and pleasant, teamsters preparing to leave. Thursday 3rd Soon after we started Yesterday we were met by a large band of Sioux warriers going to battle with the Pawnees. They were dressed in very spendid indian style, appeared very friendly to us, traded some with our people, swaped horses &C. We crossed black mud creek a little before night, came to where the road and river joins and camped; passed Dr Richards co a mile or two back. Last night some of the brethren worked all night mending wagon for br Luce. Our co trying to get away before Dr s comes along. We understand that his co have voted him in sole leader their band, which I suppose constitutes them a separate party. [Sandy Bluffs, Aug. 4, 1848] Friday 4th Yesterday we crossed the sandy bluffs which are very curiously formed. I took a walk by myself; passed through some of the most singular looking places I ever saw; it seemed to me that nature in her playful moments had formed curiosities for her own sport. One I observed which was particularly interesting. It was formed in the shape of a bowl, and I presume 20 feet deep, and so steep that it was hard climbing up the sides, it had no entrance only at the top, with not a stick or shrub of any kind but lined with clean white sand, almost as white as snow. In the course of my walk I saw a large buffalo which had been to the river for drink, he was just rising the bank as I came in sight of him. It appeared that his curiosity was as much aroused as mine, he gazed at me for a moment as I did at him then shaking his head and switching his tail, started toward me in great haste, but as there were several deep gulfs between us I was not much afraid of his reaching before I could gain the wagons, however I concluded it was best for me to be leaving. We arrived at our camping ground in good season, found a very pleasant bottom with plenty of feed and water, and dry willows for fires.

12 August [An Encampment of Sioux] Saturday 5th last night we staid near spring creek very good camping place plenty of buffalo, our boys killed one. Met a company of soldiers returning from California. We understand there are lots of indians a little ahead of us, expect to meet or pass them to day. Saturday evening arrived at the indian town where were quite a large body of Sioux. They seemed much pleased to see us, commenced beging immediately and offering their skins and mockasins for sale, would give a good pair of mockasins for a slice of bread. Their curiosity was much excited at seeing our wagons and the variety of animals we had. They were willing to trade us anything they had even to their squaws, offered my husband a young one for me, wanted to buy our children, but notwithstanding their professed friendship they stole a number of articles from us before we could get away. Their chiefs tried hard to keep them back from our wagons but it was almost impossible. We did not intend to travel on Sunday but in consequence of being so annoyed, our Capts thought best to travel on, and rest the next day. Accordingly we came 7 or 8 miles (escorted by some of their young warriors half that distance) and put up untill Monday noon, we then proceeded to shoal creek, staid on the ground where the forward companies had staid found buffalo chips [al]read[y] gathered. [Lone Tree, Aug. 8, mi.] Tuesday 8th came 15 or 16 miles ^passed the lone tree^18 staid on the bank of the river, excellent feed for the cattle. Wednesday cool wind, just visited by an indian, preparing teams to roll out. Thursday morn, we had not proceeded far yesterday when we were met by a number of Indians on horseback some of the same we passed a day or two before, they dismounted and asked a present, the same as they had done before, probably thinking we should not know them. The company nearly all gave them something, they followed us 2 or 3 hours, traded some mocasins and buffalo robes for bread and meal. At night we staid where the road and river joins. Yesterday we found several buffalo skulls with inscriptions on them which gave us intelligence from the forward co s, We found they were a month wanting four days before us. This morn is very cool and cloudy. Friday morn we have a prospect of a warm day. [Sightseeing at the Ancient Bluff Ruins, Aug. 10, mi.] Yesterday we passed what Clayton 19 call the cobble hills, and as the road was sandy and hard on teams, we all concluded to walk that were able to. Sis Merkley and myself took it into our heads to take an excursion over

13 80 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby the hills ancient bluff ruins. I presume we travelled 5 miles over some of the greatest natural curiosities our eyes ever beheld, they resembled very much the ancient ruins I which I have heard discribed by travellers in central america and other places. We climbed several steep ascents where we would have thought it almost impossible for persons in our feeble health to have ascended, but curiosity lent strength to our limbs, and our ascending one only added fresh desires to attain that of another, and thus we were led on from one to another untill we began to fear we should be left far in the rear of our company who already feared we were lost or taken captive by indians. But we had no such fears as we were nearly all the while in sight of the wagons. One singularity we noticed was several old cedar trees growing at that great height just between those barren rocks, and now and then a low shrub a little wild sage and one article we called wild camomile. The tops of the rocks were bespangled with a red moss wrought into many curios flowers and also scatered over with a variety of pebblestones resembling those in the beds of our eastern streams. ^They extended over many acres and were as level on the tops as a floor, the edges projected over in many places and under them were dens and haunts for wild beasts^20 Between the immense piles of rocks were several dry creeks, and the whole land for many miles had no doubt been once the bed of some mighty stream probably connected with the platte. We were led many times admire and adore the God of nature who in his mighty power formed such wonderful curiosities. Marvelous are thy works thou Lord of hosts. ^We found several places where there were stairs formed by nature quite convenient to descend. Our minds were so much delighted with the novelty of the surrounding scenery that we almost forgot we were a little past the meridian of life, and for a moment imagined ourselves mere children, sporting at leisure. All the animal we saw was one little rabbit which ran from us in great fear and a few very pretty birds that seemed make homes in the old cedar trees.^ Saturday morn cool and cloudy, last night met another company of Sioux beging for something to eat, a comp of them on the opposite side the river this morn, they have come again asking for sugar, brought letters from the leaders of the forward companies. I gave them a little they appeared very thankful said we would all go togather and dance togather. Sunday 13th last night corralled near the river, many indians around us. Our company rests today. Dr Richards co came up with us. It is a pleasant place here but no wood and few buffalo chips. No chance for washing or baking. [Spring Creek, Aug. 14, mi.] Monday. Yesterday we had a cold rain, it is remarkbly cold for the season, we expect to cross the river today. Tuesday morn very pleasant We still

14 August continue on the north side of the river. Staid at spring creek last night, a very pleasant little stream, water clear as chrystal. 16th wednesday, last night staid at a small creek which runs near the river very good water, but no wood short of wading the creek and river to an island. [Road to Laramie Fort] Thursday 17th Yesterday we crossed the platte, found plenty of good dry wood but poor feed for cattle. Dr s co are on the opposite side, last night had music and dancing inside the carrall, expect to reach Laramie to day. Friday morning last night staid in sight of Laramie fort three gentlemen from there visited our camp, we found good roads the most of the way yesterday after crossing the river, it seemed like the eastern turnpikes. Last night my favorite pet sheep was destroyed by wolves. My heart ached when I saw the bloody rope which was round her neck and I could not refrain from tears. I feel like waging a war of extermination against those ferocious beasts of prey. But her destruction was occasioned by neglect or carelessness. I sincerely wish we may learn wisdom by the things we suffer. Monday morn 21st We have been staying here on the bank of the river since Friday noon, about 7 miles from Laramie. I understand the Dr camp has passed us. The brethren have burned a tar kiln [charcoal pit?] and made some repairs on their wagons. [Warm Springs, Aug. 21, ¼ mi.] 22nd Yesterday passed the warm spring, heavy sandy road our Capt intended us to keep the river road, he therefore called us back 2 or 3 miles through the sand, brought us up several bad hills, we travelled untill 9 oclock and then found no feed for cattle. The herdsmen took a different road and staid out all night with nothing but milk to eat from one morning untill the next, excepting a little bread which sister Merkley sent them by Nelson who went in search of them after sunset in co with br Luces boy and staid untill morn. They arrived at the camp about breakfast time in good spirits, said they had not suffered for victuals as they had the cows and bells to drink out of. Wed yesterday we came only 4 miles in consequence of the hard jaunt the day before, found good water wood and tolerable feed for cattle. Thursday last night stoped in good season very good feed plenty of water wood and thousands of choke cherries and the largest black currants I ever saw, besides hops in abundance. We all gathered as many as we could, in so short time. One of our oxen gave out ye[s]ter[day] in consequence of having a very sore neck, Capt Clark let us have one of his and got a loose one out of the herd to put in his own team. Friday 25th Remarkably cold east wind, we staid on a very

15 82 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby high prairie last night, having travelled quite late; creek close by, pretty good feed on it for cattle. Yesterday we passed a singular looking place where the platte runs through the high bluffs, they were several hundred feet perpendicular on each side, the bluff being of a reddish color gave them quite a curious appearance. I wanted to visit it myself but my health would not admit. Saturday Yesterday we accidently left the river road came on the hill again, pass d Dr Richards co, they however passed us again this morn. Br Lymans co close by us, some of them visited our camp. Homer Duncan, Charles Burk, Oliver Mcbride. Our oxen have sore necks and feet so that they are hardly able to travel. Sunday 27th of Aug very warm and pleasant, camped near small creek last night, no feed of any account near. Yesterday passed the red sand which had a singular appearance, our wagons and teamsters were covered with red dust. 21 [Box Elder Creek, Aug. 28, ½ mi.] Sunday night staid at box elder creek plenty of wood and water but poor feed. Monday 28th came to deer creek where Dr Richards co were camped. Tuesday morn I called to see some of them. Phineas Ric[hards], B Johnson, found them well, came on ten miles our team very weak for want of feed, hardly able to travel. ^staid at large grove near platte north side the road.^ Wednesday 30th cold wind Came only one mile in hopes to find better feed but found none of any account. 31st This morning the men are holding council in the carral, Some hardness between some of them I believe. Bro Alexander left Capt Martin s ten, came and joined ours. [ 2 Ravines, Near Together, Sept. 1, mi.] Sept 1st yesterday passed the two ravines mentioned in the guide, carraled near the river Br Alexander broke one of his wagon wheels, had to stop with Huntsucker to get it repaired. Very windy and cloudy this morn. Yesterday found an inscription from br H C Kimball from which we learned that his co passed here Aug 11th. Sat 2nd crossed the platte came to the mineral spring and lake, travelled in the rain, the 1st we have had in several weeks, very hard wind in the night. Sun 3rd very cool wind, some fear concerning the bad water. Cap Martin had a cow die yesterday, very strangly she crossed the river well enough in the morning but soon after commenced swelling and laid down and died. Monday 4th Staid at grease creek very good water. Monday night Sis merkley s cow died with the murrain. Several cattle sick. Met a co of brethren returning to winter quarters, some from Francisco some from

16 September the Valley of salt lake, others from br Youngs co. Recd a letter from sis P. Teusday I passed the salaratus lake which was a great curiosity to us, all filled sacks with it; it resembled a lake of ice covered with snow, Came on to the sweet water river staid close to Independence rock. 22 [Devil s Gate, Sept. 6, mi.] Wednesday came to the devils gate a place where the sweet water river runs through the rocks which are 400 feet perpendicular. ^morn took a walk upon the rocks saw many curiosities, many names engrave upon it the most of us left ours there,^ we went into a den or cave in which resembled a room several names were engraven there in, we found on the top of the rocks a hollow filled with clear cool water in which we washed our hands and face, and returned much fatigued to our wagons. Thursday sept 7th rested from our travels to wash bake and hunt, the most of our ten went out, but had no success, they have not been prospered in the hunting line for some reason or another. Friday morn, very warm sun, all preparing to roll on, one of our oxen is missing. Friday night staid at alkali lake. Saturday Sept 9th very warm sun. Yesterday met two wagons from the valley, they brought rather an evil report. Were going back to winter quarters, thought they could not live there, said the crickets destroyed their crops, said they came in great droves. Sunday came 8 miles rested Monday; the men all gone hunting, hope they will be successful, as it is nearly their last chance at cathing buffalo. We are now about 300 miles from the valley. [Along the Sweetwater to South Pass, Sept , 1848] Tuesday Last night the brethren returned much fatigued having spent 2 days and one night and obtained only one buffalo, the wolves destroyed a part of that. On their return home they lost several articles which caused my husband a walk of 12 or 15 miles this morning to find them. He started as soon as it was light, alone through a rout thickly beset with wolves and bears, it gave me great concern of mind fear it for his safety, but he returned about 10 oclock with all the lost articles, said he saw neither bears nor wolves. Friday morn Last night the express [word unclear] returned. Br Foscrin took supper with us, My husband treated them to a drink of whisky alcohol. We had a very sociable time with br F who staid with us untill bedtime. I sent a letter by him to sis Pratt, baked them a mince pie to take with them. My husband also lent them a sack of corn to feed their horses, with the promise of having it again when we get to the valley. Saturday and Sunday staid on the sweet water. 23

17 84 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby [Across the Divide, Sept. 18, ½ mi.] Mon came to the Pacific creek 24 travelled late, cold wind. Albert Tyler s ox died with blind staggers. We all felt bad as they had only two yoke and know not how to get along without it. Tuesday 19th Sept cold east wind have 20 miles to go. Wed 20th arrived late last night at our camping place I was much fatigued, besides being afflicted with a bad headache. Yesterday met a co from fort bridger and the Valley among who was a br Ludington and family who were going to Ohio. I understand they inquired for me but I saw no one that I knew. They were principly fur traders going to Laramie. We are now 204 miles from the Salt lake valley. 21st day fine pleasant morning, we had a pleasant camping last night, but not very good feed for cattle. Friday 22nd last night staid on big sandy again tolerable feed; ten miles to green river. Every day wafts us so much farther from the land of our birth and home of our parents. The idea frequently causes a deep drawn sigh to escape me and almost every morning I find my spirit has been wandring back to the scenes of my childhood and youth, and mingling with the companions of my early days, But ah! those days are past never more to return. [Blacks Fork, Sept. 25, 1848] Monday ^Teusday^ 26th Sept, warm pleasant day last night staid on Blacks fork, very muddy water. Yesterday a young english woman in co with br Martin got hurt in getting out of the wagon, but providentially escaped material injury. We met two men from the Valley, said Br Young s co had gone in last week, also that Br A Pratt was on his way would probably be there about the time we arrived. 25 Thursday Sept 28th remarkably warm pleasn weather, the camp all well and prospering. Last night camped near a very pleasant stream of water clear as chrystal, name unknown; it was really like water to thirsty souls as we had none the night before that could scarcely be called water but rather mud. [Fort Bridger, Sept. 29, 1848] Fort Bridger Friday 29th Sept 1848 Arrived here between 3 and 4 oclock yesterday. Our Capt concluded to stop and trade some. It is quite pleasant place here, but so cold that they say they can raise nothing, have not so much as a garden. Mrs Vascan [Vasquez] (the woman whose husband owns a share in the fort) told us that she had sent her oldest son to the

18 October valley to go to school. They have one of our mormon brethren and wife living with them, expect they will stay untill next spring. Mrs. V appeared very friendly and sociable. Saturday Friday found a very rough road, came 12 miles descended a very stony hill or mountain, staid in a canyon, very pleasant place. Saturday rose a long hill and descended the opposite side found rather poor camping place no water near. [Bear River, Oct. 1, ¾ mi.] Sun Oct 1st fine pleasant morning going on to bear river where we expect to stop a day. ^Monday staid on bear river washed and baked, met a co from the valley with teams going to meet Dr Richards.^26 Wednday [Thursday] 5th Staid last night on echo creek 10 or 12 miles from Weber river, good water and grass; two indian families tented near us going to the valley to spend the winter. One of the men is of spanish descent, and is going to teach the spanish french and several of the indian tongues. He has a squaw for his wife who appears to be quite a modest intelligent woman. Tuesday night [Oct. 3] we staid close by Cache cave which is a great curiosity. I visited it in com with several others, saw several names engraven therein, it is said to be 30 feet from the entrance to the back side, it has an oval roof, and a hole in the centre resembling a chimney. We saw tracks of wild beasts, and holes under the rocks where they doubtless resort. Thursday night we camped in a canyon on Weber river rested Friday from our travels, or at least let our teams rest, after much consultation among the brethren on the subject, the majority were in favor of staying in opposition the capt and several others whose teams were not so weak. [30 Miles from Salt Lake Valley, Oct 8, 1848] Sunday morning Oct 8th 1848 Yesterday came ten miles, staid near a small creek, had some very bad places to pass; br Barnard s buggee capsised but did no injury of any account. This morning is very pleasant and warm. We are now almost thirty miles from the valley. Three days more will (we hope) land us at our place of destination. I hope I shall be truly thankful to God for his preserving care through so long and tidious a journey. Monday morn. Yesterday we travelled about 9 miles through very bad roads camped in a valley or canyon entirely surrounded by mountains. Soon after we stoped we were joined by a frenchman and an indian with their families, who were going to the valley to buy provision. The frenchman has a squaw for his wife, they also had a young man and girl from the valley which they had hired, the young woman had been making butter and

19 86 The History of Caroline Barnes Crosby cheese for them. ^Monday we came only a short distance. Father Luce s wagon tire got broken had to stop to get mended. Br A Lyman, Flake and two other men came by us on horseback going on to the valley.^ Tuesday we ascended and descended a very high mountain 27 the teams had all they could do to draw the loads, on arriving at the top we had a glimpse of the valley of salt lake which we had so long been striving to reach. We all rejoiced and thought we were the same as there, but when we came to descend the mountain we found we had one of the worst and most crooked roads to pass over that ever was seen, we however got through safely and arrived within 14 miles of our place of destination before dark. Wed 11th warm and pleasant we some expect to roll into the valley to day. [Arrival at Salt Lake Valley, Oct. 12, 1848] Thu Oct 12th, Yesterday we were detained by rain, we travelled untill 3 or 4 oclock and then stoped, this morning is very pleasant, intend to make the best of our way into the valley, a little after noon we ascended and descended the last hill, found two families living in tents close the mouth of the canyon. I understood they had salt for sale, I went and bought some for salaratus. About 4 oclock we arrived within the fort the first we saw of our acquaintances Phill B Lewis 28 he told us sister P was at his house close by the gate we had just come through. Caroline s initial daily journal ends upon completion of her venturesome wagon trip from the Des Moines River to the Great Salt Lake Valley. What follows is a fairly brief reminiscent account of the subsequent two years spent in Utah.