Champaner A town frozen in time

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Roger Powell
5 years ago
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1 Champaner A town frozen in time Champaner The city frozen in time. Photo Credits: Ashima Just about an hour s drive from the bustling city of Vadodara, lies a small town, Champaner, almost forgotten by time. As we come closer to the town, a single hill called Pavagadh, rises in the distance and the scenery suddenly changes to lush green surroundings as soon as we exit the state highway, driving towards Champaner. Often termed as the city frozen in time, archaeologists believe that the city was suddenly deserted around 450 years back. No reason is known and there are no signs of nuclear activity as have been found in Kurukshetra or Mohenjo Daro sites. But everything is still as it was in the 16th century when Champaner flourished under Mahmud Begada as the capital of the Gujarat Sultanate.

In the 14th century, Gujarat came under the Delhi Sultanate and the local architecture was increasingly influenced by Islamic designs. Around 15th century, a particular Gujarat style emerged.

2 In the 14th century, Gujarat came under the Delhi Sultanate and the local architecture was increasingly influenced by Islamic designs. Around 15th century, a particular Gujarat style emerged. A blend of both Hindu and Islamic designs and architecture, this style can be seen in monuments of that era all over Gujarat. Of all the sites, Champaner is believed to be the only complete and unscathed Islamic pre-mughal city. Intricate carving inside Jami Masjid. Photo Credits: Ashima Slow down a bit as you near Champaner as that s when the beauty and history of the place starts to enthrall you. Keep on the lookout for signs announcing the monuments on the roadsides. We had almost missed the first sign announcing. Ek Minar Ki Masjid.

And that was exactly what it was, ek minar, which literally translates to one minaret. The rest was all in ruins. Normally, a masjid has a pond or other water structure for ablutions.

3 And that was exactly what it was, ek minar, which literally translates to one minaret. The rest was all in ruins. Normally, a masjid has a pond or other water structure for ablutions. This one had two, one in the mosque compound and one below. We wondered whether the latter was for women. But since women were not allowed inside mosques back then, we arrived at the conclusion that perhaps it was for lower castes. Next we went to the Helical (spiral) step well. Made of stones and bricks, the stairway to the well descends down like the coil of a snake. Ek Minar ki Masjid. Photo credits: Ashima The next stop was Sakar Khan s tomb. Noticing four people perched up on the tomb having a little picnic in the afternoon, I was a little angry that they weren t respecting the structure and causing it harm by climbing on top of it

4 through the wall. But later, as the anger wore off, I found their casual disrespect quite amusing. After entering the walled town through the imposing Moti Gate, we kept moving from one monument to another. There were mosques, temples, palaces, market areas, tombs and even, prisons! Each one was accompanied by detailed carvings and beautiful designs. We were simply amazed at how much the ASI had excavated and still is doing so in the area. On a cooler day, one can spend hours altogether roaming around the village and not get bored. Four guys perched on top of Sakar Khan s Tom. Photo Credits: Ashima

5 A few symbols kept repeating themselves between structures, such as a kalash like symbol in the Mihrab (maulvi s stand) of each mosque. I was quite intrigued about finding a Hindu symbol in a mosque, but then the whole place was an amalgamation of both the religions. Almost all the structures are supported by rows and rows of pillars. There is a myth that each time you count the pillars inside Shahar ki Masjid, you will come up with a different number! As we were leaving the mosque, a local man asked if we could drop him a little distance further. While talking to him about the sites, he told us that many of the locals don t even know that this is a World Heritage Site and the significance of that! Most tourists also come to visit only the temple on top of Pavagadh hill, rather than the city at its foothills. I was surprised. Champaner is a gem. Dotted with large number of historical monuments and showcasing a mix of Indo-Islamic cultures, it is worth a visit by itself. Shahar Ki Masjid. Photo Credits: Ashima

6 Time stands still in Champaner. As you move from one monument to another, you feel as if you are being transported into the 16th century when Champaner (the then Muhammadabad) was a busy capital of a big state. Within the walls of the historic capital, a living village still thrives children running around, shopkeepers selling their wares, the elderly resting under the shade of a tree while the youth have left to nearby towns for work. If you are in Vadodara or Ahmedabad, take a bit of time out to visit the beautiful Champaner, for a little excursion into its rich and vibrant past!

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