GYEONGJU. 1. Bulguk Temple. 2. Seokuram. 3. Gwaereung. 4. Gameunsa Temple. 5. The underwater tomb of the King Munmu - 1 -

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1 GYEONGJU 1. Bulguk Temple 2. Seokuram 3. Gwaereung 4. Gameunsa Temple 5. The underwater tomb of the King Munmu - 1 -

2 Bulguk Temple 1. Entrance - Bulguk Temple, The Buddha s land Bulguk Temple, The Buddha's land [Teacher] This is Bulguk Temple built aroud 1200 years ago. It has been registered on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. Of so many Buddhist temples built in Silla, this temple which symbolizes the Buddha's land is the most representative example of Silla's Buddhist culture. Its refined architectures and harmony with nature is regarded as the epitome of the sophisticated culture of Silla. [Student] Wow. I can't wait to see it! [Teacher] This temple was built when Silla's culture and economy was growing rapidly. Considering all of the techniques and artistic competencies of Silla were concentrated in its construction when the kingdom was at its height, it would be easy to guess how gorgeous this temple is. [Student] I see. So this temple represents the renaissance of Silla. [Teacher] Right. Records say that this temple and Seokguram Grotto were constructed by the same person. And of course there is a legend about him. [Student] Oh, tell me about the legend. I guess anyone who constructed of such a magnificent temple would not have been an ordinary person

3 [Teacher] Yes. The person who constructed them was Kim Dae-Seong. He was a prime minister of Silla. Legend says that he had been born to a very poor family in his previous life and heard that he would have a long and affluent life if he had made a donation to a Buddhist temple. So he and his mother donated the field they had, wishing they could become rich in their next lives. But he died soon. [Student] He died? That's too bad. [Teacher] Well, but he was born again to a noble family of Silla. When he was grown up, he built this temple for his parents in the present life and Seokguram Grotto for his parents in his previous life. [Student] Awesome. [Teacher] Yes. And as you know, legend always reflects the times it was created. So from this story, we can guess how important Buddhism was for Silla people. Actually, he died before the construction of this temple was completed. But the construction continued even after his death, so now we can appreciate such marvelous architectures. [Student] I see. And I heard that there are a number of wonderful relics of Silla in the temple. [Teacher] Yes. The most famous among them are Dabo pagoda and Seokga pagoda which are known for their harmonious and balanced appearance and creative architecture style. And also there are many other cultural treasures in the temple. It would be better to go see them. Shall we move to Bulguk Temple where the spirit of Silla is still alive? - 3 -

4 Bulguk Temple 2. Looking at Cheongun and Baekun Bridge A beautiful bridge of Buddhism. The two-story stairways right in front of you are called Cheongun and Baekun Bridges. These stairways which lead to the Buddhas land are one of the major symbols of Buddhism found in Bulguksa Temple. And they are not only beautiful in appearance but also have a great architectural significance. If you look at them from the side, you'll see their stable and elegant structure. They give the sense of stability because the golden ratio of 3,4,5 based on the famous Pythagorean theorum was applied to their structure. Of course, Silla people didn't know about the Pythagorean theorum. But surprisingly they found the golden ratio, as a result of their scientific approach in building a structure. Now, let's take a closer look at the stairways. Generally, the upper half of the stairs is called Baekun Bridge and the lower half is called Cheongun Bridge. But why did they call them a bridge when they are obviously stairs? There is a religious reason behind it. These stairs lead to the main hall of this temple which houses the Buddha statue. So climbing up these stairs mean entering the Budda's land. And the stairs leading to it are considered the bridge connecting the mundane world and the Buddha's land. Now, shall we take a look at the stone foundation which supports the beautiful buildings of Bulguksa Temple? The stone foundation is the layers of stones under the main building which looks like a castle wall. (Baekun Bridge) - 4 -

5 Bulguk Temple 3. In front of the stone wall The stone foundation representing the harmony of nature and artificiality While most other Buddhist temples are constructed on the flat ground, Bulguksa Temple was built on the foot of a mountain. To build a temple on sloped ground, you need to lay down the foundation first. And as you see, Silla people built the foundation by putting up a stone wall which looks like a castle wall. Putting up the wall and leveling the ground to construct buildings safely required tremendous efforts and was the most difficult process in the construction of Bulguksa Temple. The stone foundation was built through this difficult process. And now those beautiful buildings are standing stably on the foundation. Now, let's take a closer look at the stone wall. You'll see the boundaries between the rough natural stones and the neatly carved stones. At first sight, the stone wall looks like randomly stacked layers of stones. But if you look at it more closely, you'll find that the stones are carefully stacked so that they fit together perfectly leaving no gaps in between. (Bulguk Temple stone wall) - 5 -

6 This was possible because they carefully carved the stones in a way that they could fit together with the natural stones. This is one of the common techniques widely used in traditional Korean architecture. So it is no exaggeration that the beauty of buildings in Bulguksa Temple starts from this stone wall which perfectly harmonizes nature and artificiality. And you will see a layer of long stones on top of the stone wall. They make the wall look more orderly and sturdy. And there used to be a beautiful pond in front of the stone wall, at the very spot that you are standing. It was a big pond, four times larger than a tennis court, according to the excavation team. The pond is not restored yet, to avoid causing any inconvenience to visitors. But the waterway that was used to flow water into the pond still remains on the stone wall on the left side of the Chungwun and Baekun Bridges. Now, shall we move to the main building of the temple? You'll see two gorgeous pagodas there. Let's take the path on the right side

7 Bulguk Temple 4. Dabo Pagoda wearing fabulous jewelry Dabo Pagoda wearing fabulous jewelry In the east of the main hall which houses a statue of Buddha is the gorgeous Dabo Pagoda. Its distinctive and highly decorative style is different from any other pagoda. With its refined and elegant appearance, the pagoda truly stands out from numerous pagodas in Korea. As you see, Dabo Pagoda is highly decorative. And that's because it represents the Dabo Buddha. The Dabo Buddha is a Buddhist saint who always wore dazzling jewelry. So this pagoda is heavily decorated to better represent the Buddha. And Dabo Pagoda also represents the spirit and philosophy of Buddhism. For instance, the lower part of the pagoda is square-shaped. And you'll see the shape becomes rounder and rounder, as you look up to the top. This symbolizes the transition from the square-shaped mundane world to the round-shaped Buddhist heaven. As such, the pagoda symbolizes the Buddhist philosophy in many ways. And its unique and elegant style makes it a world-class cultural heritage that indicates the free and creative art spirit of Silla people. Next to Dabo Pagoda, another pagoda stands. This elegant and simple pagoda is called Seokga Pagoda, which offers the essence of Silla stone pagodas. Typically in temples built during the Silla period, two pagodas are placed side by side, just like these ones. And that was to represent what was said in the Buddhist scriptures. Now, shall we take a closer look at the pagoda? - 7 -

8 Bulguk Temple 5. Seokga Pagoda, A pagoda of balance Seokga Pagoda, A pagoda of balance The stone pagoda next to Dabo Pagoda is Seokga Pagoda which represents Shakyamuni Buddha, the founder of Buddhism. This pagoda which is called the complete example of Silla stone pagodas boasts its refined appearance created based on its balanced and symmetrical structure. This pagoda consists of three parts, which are designed based on a thorough mathematical calculation to accentuate the sense of stability and balance. Shall we look at the bottom part? Eight lotus flower-shaped stones are placed around the pagoda. In Buddhism, the number 8 represents the whole universe. And these eight stones are the seats for all Buddhas in the universe which symbolizes that Shakyamuni and other Buddhas are always here with the pagoda. As such, this pagoda does not shows the aesthetic sense of Silla people but also faithfully represents symbols of Buddhism. Buddhist pagodas often contain precious Buddhist artifacts or "sarira," the remains of Shakyamuni Buddha or a monk after cremation. This pagoda also had a precious artifact which surprised the whole world. The artifact is the wooden-printed material of Buddhist scriptures, which is the oldest wooden-printed material in the world. You can learn more about it from File Dharani Sutra; The treasure of the world of this audio guide. Along with the invaluable artifact, this pagoda also has a sad story. You can hear the story in the File Seokga Pagoda; A stone pagoda without a shadow. Now, shall we move to the main building where the Shakyamuni Buddha statue is located? Dharani Sutra, The treasure of the world With its great artistic and historical value, Seokga Pagoda was not safe from robbery. Buddhist pagodas often have precious artifacts inside and robbers once attempted to steal the artifacts in this - 8 -

9 pagoda, damaging it in the process. Afterwards, maintenance work was carried out to repair the damage, and this led to the discovery of the invaluable artifacts inside. In the rectangular space in the middle of the pagoda, a sarira box and a little Buddhist scripture were found wrapped with silk. Inside the silk wrapping was the world's oldest existing wood-printed material. This little scripture that carries the summary of Buddha's teachings has a tremendous historical value and has been designated as a national treasure. Before this scripture was found, the one discovered in Japan was considered the world's oldest wood-printed material. But as it turned out, this scripture was about 20 years older than the Japanese one. Already having the world's oldest movable metal print book, Korea has become the country that has two world's oldest printed materials. And this scripture was printed onto the traditional Korean paper. This paper is very long-lasting and is also relatively immune from discoloration and oxidization compared with silk or the paper we use today. So you can say that this scripture was kept in good condition for more than 1,000 years thanks to the paper. Although the original scripture is not on display to the public due to concerns over damage, the replica is exhibited in the National Museum of Korea. So if you're interested, make sure you don't miss it. Seokga Pagoda, A stone pagoda without a shadow [Narration] Legend tells that Seokga Pagoda has no shadow. The story has its origin in a sad love story from the Silla period. Shall we hear the story? Asadal, a master craftsman of Silla, embarked on a long journey to design and create pagodas for Bulguksa Temple leaving his beloved wife, Asanyo, at home. Completely absorbed in the pagoda project, Asadal didn't want to be distracted by any thoughts. He did not even think of his beautiful wife back home. After hearing no word from her husband for two years, she missed her husband so much that she couldn't wait any longer. So she travelled all the way to Bulguksa Temple. But she was not allowed to see her husband. [Asanyo] Please let me see my husband, or at least tell me if he is alive. [Gatekeeper] I'm sorry, but I am under strict orders not to allow any woman into the temple until the pagoda is completed. Please go back

10 [Narration] But she could not see him. She waited day after day at the temple gate for her husband to come out. But no word came. One day a Buddhist monk who took pity on her tried to comfort her. [Monk] There is a small pond not far from here. If you pray with all your heart, maybe you will see the reflection of the pagoda in the water soon after it's completed. Then, you will be able to see your husband. [Narration] After that, she stood beside the pond every day, gazing forlornly at it. But days passed with no sign of the pagoda. And she even heard a rumor that Asadal would soon get married to another woman. She beseeched the heaven. [Asanyo] I see no reflection in the water. Am I not sincere enough in my wish to see my husband? What should I do to see him again? [Narration] With no energy left to go back home, Asanyo flung herself in the pond and cried her husband's name one last time. When Asadal completed the Seokga Pagoda, he heard that his wife had come and ran to the pond. But he only found her shoes at the edge of the pond. [Asadal] Asanyo~ [Narration] He tore at his chest, crying. Soon after, he followed his wife and threw himself into the water, too

11 Bulguk Temple 6. The main hall that enshrines Sakamuni Buddha The main hall that enshrines Sakamuni Buddha In front of the Dabo Pagoda and Seokga Pagoda is the main building of the temple. In the building is enshrined Sakyamuni Buddha, the founder of Buddhism. There is a stone lantern in front of the building. Every temple has such stone fixtures which are meant to shine a light and illuminate where Buddha is. Before we take a look at the statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, let's first look at the edges of the curvy roof. On the left end is a dragon with a ball in its mouth. On the right side is a carving of a dragon with a fish sticking out of its mouth. Pictures of a dragon with a ball in its mouth are commonly found throughout the East, but a dragon with a fish is unusual. The dragon on the right is holding a fish in its mouth, instead of a ball, to deliver a Buddhist message. In buddhism, fish, which sleep with their eyes open, symbolize the wakefulness of Sakyamuni Buddha to save the people of the world. Now let's go inside the building. There are three buddhist statues inside, and the one at the center is Sakyamuni Buddha. Sakyamuni Buddha was a saint who attained enlightenment under the Bodhi tree, started Buddhism and spread his teachings around the world. In Buddhism, it is said that anyone can reach sainthood once they attain enlightenment, which, of course, is not easy. Why don't we now head to the Museol Hall, a building where the words of Buddhism were taught. The Museol Hall is located behind the main hall

12 Bulguk Temple 7. Museol Hall, a place of tranquility [Narration] Have you arrived at Museol Hall? This is used as an assembly hall for the temple. What do you think Museol Hall means? Museol means a place without words or place of tranquility. It sounds a bit odd to think that there are no words spoken at the assembly hall. Shall we hear a story about Buddha's smile to better understand the meaning of Museol? It was when Buddha was residing at Youngchuk Mountain some 2600 years ago. One of the gods from heaven, Daebumcheon, asked for a sermon by offering Buddha a lotus flower. [Daebumcheon] Seoka the Buddha, how shall people live? Please enlighten us! [Narration] After listening to his request, Buddha picked up the lotus branch and showed it to the people without speaking any words. People were confused by his action but one of the disciples named Gaseop knew what Buddha was doing and smiled in realization of Buddha s action. [Gaseop] Buddha is showing you the way of his teachings instead of words. The reason he showed you the lotus branch is for us to live as a lotus flower. The lotus flower lives among dirt dirt will not smudge its leaves or blossoms. Thus one must not fall into the wrong doings of the secular world but seek the ways of the righteousness. [Narration] Buddha was happy that Gaseop understood his minds and conveyed many truths and teachings of Buddhism to Gaseop. The word "Museol" originated from this story. It is the teaching of Buddha to convey one s mind and finally reach the truth without needing for words or speech. That is how Museol Hall got its name. Now, let s head over to Gwaneumjeon where merciful Gwaneum Buddhist saint resides. To go there, you have to go around back of Museol Hall and follow the stairs up

13 Bulguk Temple 8. Gwaneumjeon-The Buddhist goddess of mercy The Gwaneum Hall is located at the highest point of Bulguksa Temple. As it is located on the highest terrace, the stairs leading to it are very steep. These steps are built to symbolize a mountain, so that the disciple would calm his mind and improve his focus as he takes one step after another. Upon entering the building, you'll first see a picture of a saint with thousand eyes and thousand arms. At the temple, many saints of Buddhism are enshrined along with Sakyamuni Buddha. Here is a picture of Avalokita Bodhisattva, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Her numerous eyes and arms signify her compassion for those who suffer. In the East, people recite her name in prayer wishing that she would take away their pain and bring happiness. Well, let's give it a try. Avalokita Bodhisattva, Avalokita Bodhisattva, Avalokita Bodhisattva Now, shall we move to the next site? The next stop in our tour of Bulguksa Temple is Biro Hall where a saint of truth resides. You can use the gate on the left side of Gwaneum Hall to get there

14 Bulguk Temple 9. Birojeon-Birojana Buddha, a Symbol of Truth Birojana Buddha, a Symbol of Truth This is Biro Hall where the saint of truth, Birojana Buddha, resides. If you take a look at the statue, you will be struck by how lifelike the statue looks and how well the creases of the clothes are captured. This is a testament to the artistic vision and skills of Silla people. This statue has one thing different from other similar statues. Take a look at its hands. The hand gestures of each image of Buddha are different, which is intended to deliver different messages. The hand gesture of Birojana Buddha means getting rid of pain and seeking wisdom. But the hand shape of this one is the opposite from a normal Birojana Buddha statue. It is considered quite unusual. People believe there must be a profound meaning to it, but no one has figured it out yet. Before we go out of this building, let's look at one more cultural treasure in the yard. It is sarira Pagoda, which is also a designated national treasure. Stand facing the building and the pagoda will be on your left side

15 Bulguk Temple 10. Sarira Pagoda(Stupa) Sarira Pagoda This is where sarira Pagoda is. Though it is a bit smaller than other pagodas, the beautiful, delicate carvings on all sides of the pagoda are very impressive. This pagoda is another designated national treasure. A sarira pagoda refers to a container of the remains of famous Buddhist monks. Sarira is a Buddhist term meaning the remains of Sakyamuni Buddha or a monk after cremation. Its shape can vary from a round ball to a small particle. In general, sariras are considered the result of a long time of meditation and praying. And a sarira pagoda is the place to put these precious remains. Shall we move to the next building? The next is Geuknak Hall, a place that houses Amita Buddha. Walk down the stairs, go past the gate where there are columns and you will see Geuknak Hall. (Bulguk Temple Sarira Pagoda)

16 Bulguk Temple 13. Geuknak Hall which leads you to the Buddhist utopia Geuknak Hall which leads you to the Buddhist utopia This building is Geuknak Hall that houses Amita Buddha, a saint who will lead you to the Buddhist utopia. In Buddhism, the utopia is represented as a country in the west where everyone can live happily without worries. But then, how the saint will lead us to that place? The answer can be found in a picture in that building. Let's take a look at the mural on the right wall of the building. It has a dragon-shaped boat. The saint will put us on that boat and guide us from this world to the utopia in the west. This building also has a unique sculpture that cannot be found at any other temple. The sculpture is hidden behind a sign bearing the building's name. Why don't you try to look for it yourself? Now I would like to turn your attention to the stairs that bring people into the building. The stairs are under a small gate at the opposite side of the building. These stairs are small, but delicately-carved and called Yeonhwa Bridge and Chilbo Bridge. The reason they are called a bridge, instead of stairs, is because they are the connection between the real world and the utopia. Well, this brings an end of our tour of Bulguksa Temple. Silla people constructed Bulguksa Temple with their superb architectural skills, wishing for it to be a physical representation of Buddha's land here on earth. There are still more artifacts and cultural heritage of Silla that you haven't seen in Bulguksa Temple. Please feel free to take a walk around the temple and take in all the cultural sights it has to offer

17 Seokuram 1. On the way to Seokguram Grotto Seokguram Grotto, The epitome of Silla's amazing architectural techniques. [Teacher] Now we're going to Seokguram Grotto, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. [Student] Oh, that's the famous Seokguram Grotto. [Teacher] Yes. Usually a grotto refers to a temple built in a cave to help Buddhist monks stay cool while meditating in summer. It originated from India. But this 1200-year-old grotto was built in a very unique style, combining the concept of cave from India and the dome-style roof from the West. It was built with Silla's unique architectural techniques. [Student] I'm curious how they built it. [Teacher] Well, this grotto is an artificial stone cave built by stacking stone blocks just like an igloo. They carved blocks of granite and stacked them in a mound shape, and then covered them with dirt. Constructing such a sophisticated piece of architecture is impossible without broad knowledge of mathematics and geometry as well as advanced architectural skills. [Student] It's amazing! Who built this wonderful grotto? [Teacher] An aristocrat of Silla constructed it. Legend says that he built it for his parents in the previous life and built Bulguk Temple for his

18 parents in his present life. The two places give us a lot to talk about, including the background of their construction, the ways they were constructed, and the advanced techniques and artistic perfection they display. [Student] I see. That there is a lot to talk about means that they are a very important cultural heritage of Silla, right? [Teacher] Exactly! Now, let's go see Seokguram Grotto, the epitome of Silla's sophisticated architectural skills. We have to climb up some stairs to go there. Are you ready for that? In Buddhism, stairs symbolize agonies of life. Let's try to calm our minds while walking up the stairs

19 Seokuram 2. At the entrance of Seokguram Grotto Seokguram Grotto, a Representation of Silla People's Wishes Have you arrived at Seokguram Grotto? Before we go in, let's take a look at the exterior of the grotto first. As you can see, the grotto is surrounded by wooden structures, which are designed to protect it from the erosive powers of rain and wind. Seokguram faces the East Sea. Before the wooden structures were built, the lights from the rising sun reached and lit up the Buddha statue. It is no coincidence that Seokguram is placed at a high altitude overlooking the sea. The choice of location reflects Silla people's wish that it would shine on the country like the morning sun. Inside, the layout is arranged in a circle and its architecture is a testament to the great heritage of the Silla period. The main Buddha statue is seated in a round chamber and surrounding it along the wall of the rotunda are stone statues. In Buddhism, a circle represents a world in harmony. So this grotto represents such Buddhist longing for a harmonious world. Let's take a close look at the ceiling. It is arched in a dome shape. The ceiling is believed to weigh as much as 20 tons. What's supporting that heavy weight are the stones protruding from the ceiling. These stones keep the dome balanced and spread the weight. This outstanding architectural feat is difficult to reproduce even with today's technology. Considering that this was actually built 1,300 years ago, one must be amazed at Silla people's sophisticated technology. Shall we go into the wooden building?

20 Seokuram 3. The main Buddha statue shows the aesthetical sensitivity of Silla People The main Buddha statue shows the aesthetical sensitivity of Silla People Today, you are not allowed to access the inside of the grotto. It is walled with glass from top to bottom to better preserve the grotto. Actually, there is a sad story behind it, which I will come back to later. Now let's see what's behind the glass wall. In the front are various statues, and guarding the corridor are scary-looking figures. At the center of the rotunda is the Buddha statue. Accompanying the Buddha, in relief, are various images along the wall of the rotunda. Shall we take a look at the main Buddha in the center? What do you think about it? Doesn't it look serene, almost mystical, in complete harmony with the ether of silence that surrounds it? In fact, the statue is not placed at the center of the rotunda, but a little bit behind. And the head of the statue is rather large for its body, which is calculated in consideration of the viewer's sight line to give the statue an aura of grandeur. It is also why the lotus petals at the back wall of the rotunda create the illusion of a halo, when you look at the statue in the eye. The statue itself has the most ideal body proportion. It is this golden ratio that accentuates the statue's beauty and a sense of harmony. Let's take a look at the hand gesture of the statue. In the

21 Buddhist tradition, different hand gestures of Buddha have different meanings. This one means warding off demons. Aren't you curious how they moved this big statue into the cave? In fact, they carved the statue first and then made the grotto, not the other way around. There are also many other statues behind the main Buddha and they are all highly praised pieces of Buddhist art, too. Now let's hear the story of the glass wall in the grotto

22 Seokuram 4. Seokguram Grotto surrounded by glass walls Seokguram Grotto surrounded by glass walls Seokguram Grotto is a great source of pride for Korean people. And though it is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, unfortunately people cannot access its interior because it is surrounded by glass walls. The reason these walls were put up is because this grotto suffered damage when its structure was dismantled and reassembled during the Japanese colonial rule. Below this grotto runs naturally cold underground water, which kept the temperature inside the stone chamber at a stable level. And it also prevented dew condensation from occurring due to the difference in temperatures between in and outside the grotto. Also, the walls and the ceiling of the stone chamber were constructed with granite blocks and then covered with tiles and earth to dehumidify and make sure that the grotto can "breathe." However, the repair work by the Japanese colonial rulers were conducted without sufficient study of the structure. The Japanese blocked the flow of underground water, removed the tiles and earth that covered the grotto and finished the repair work by encasing the grotto in cement, a new material at that time. This resulted in humidity buildup and moss growth, which exposed the stone structures to the risk of erosion. Inevitably, another round of repair work had to be done in the 1960's by installing glass walls and a temperature controller to artificially control temperature and humidity. If people had tried to understand the wisdom and technology of past generations before they set out to repair Seokguram, we might have been able to avoid such sorry situations

23 Gwaereung 1. At the entrance of Gwaereung Tomb Gwaereung Tomb, The evidence of active cultural exchange during the Silla period. [Teacher] This is the tomb of a Silla king. The name Gwaereung refers to "hanging the coffin." [Student] You mean hanging a corpse in the air? Why? [Teacher] According to legend, originally there was a small pond here. After the king died, they tried to fill the pond with dirt to build the king's tomb on top of it. But strangely, water kept leaking out of the ground. So they had no choice but to hang the coffin on a tree or a stone until the groundwork was completed. Probably this legend indicates that some special groundwork was done here. [Student] Oh, I see. But imagine the king's body hanging in the air. It's creepy! [Teacher] Is it? Also, this tomb offers the evidence that Silla had cultural exchanges with Arabia. [Student] Did Arabia and Silla have exchanges? [Teacher] Yes. In Silla, international trade, particularly maritime trade, was very active. Many merchants from overseas came to Silla's port and some of them were Arabian merchants. Also, glass bowls remarkably similar to those in Arabia were found in other tombs from Silla. Also, what's interesting is the stone statues in this tomb look just like Arabs

24 [Student] Wow! Silla was not a small isolated kingdom of East Asia. Let's go check out the stone statues. [Teacher] Sure. I'll tell you more while you are looking at the statues

25 Gwaereung 2. In front of the stone statues Stone statues which represent active exchanges with other kingdoms. Do you see the two stone statues facing each other by the tomb? These lively and detailed statues are among the best sculpture pieces from the Silla period. Let's first look at the statue standing to the left of the entrance. With a big nose, curly beard and hair, this statue looks just like an Arab. Then why is a statue of an Arab standing here? Among the relics from the Silla period are many glass artifacts and spices that were not found in Silla culture. Those items are believed to have been imported from Arabia and other kingdoms, which means that Silla had exchanges with the outside world. And this stone statue is yet another evidence of such active exchanges during the Silla period. Now let's take a look at the other statue in front of the tomb. It looks like a lion but a little different from the lion that we know. Actually it is a mythical animal known to protect Buddha's land. Now, shall we take a look at the tomb?

26 Gwaereung 3. Gwaereung, A typical Silla tomb This is Gwaereung, the tomb of King Wonseong. The tomb is surrounded by the railings of neatly smoothed stones on which 12 animals, including a rat and an ox, are sculpted. These animals are the guardian gods of the tomb that watch over 12 directions. In front of the tomb is a large rectangular stone. This stone is believed to be where spirits are seated after coming out of the tomb when a ritual is performed. Compared with other tombs in Silla, this tomb is more richly ornamented. This tomb style represents Silla's own adaptation of Chinese tomb style. And it is a representative of Silla tombs after 800 AD. Now, shall we look around the tomb as we listen to the story about King Wonseong? King Wonsung takes throne with help of the water god [Narration] There is an interesting story about how King Wonseong took the throne. Let's listen to the story. The name of King Wonseong before he was crowned the king was Kim Gyeong-shin. One morning he woke up from a strange dream. In the dream, he wore a white traditional hat instead of an official s hat that he normally wears and jumped into a well with an instrument in his arms. The dream disturbed him so much and he felt that it must have some profound meaning. So he went to see a fortune-teller. [Fortune-teller] Taking off an official s hat means you will lose your government position; the instrument symbolizes the stocks used to punish criminals; and jumping into a well means that you may end up in jail. [Narration] Kim Gyeong-shin got nervous at what the fortune-teller said and hid out at home for days. And one day, a man named Yeosam came to see him. [Yeosam] What makes you so worried? [Kim Gyeong-shin] I had a dream full of terrible omens. [Yeosam] Can you tell me about the dream?

27 [Narration] Kim Gyeon-shin told him about the dream. When the story was finished, Yeosam stood up and bowed deeply to him. [Kim Gyeong-shin] What are you doing? [Yeosam] Taking off an official s hat means that you will no longer have anyone above you and the white traditional hat is the crown that only a king can wear. The twelve strings of the instrument means that the throne will continue for the next twelve generations, and jumping into a well indicates that you will be entering the palace. [Kim Gyeong-shin] But there is someone above me in the political rank. There's no way I can get ahead of him to the throne. [Yeosam] There is a way. Pray to the god of water and do it in secret. The god will help you. [Narration] Kim Gyeong-shin followed Yeosam's advice, and performed the ritual prayer in secret. Soon thereafter, upon the death of the king, the nobility gathered and elected Kim Ju-won as the next king. So Kim Ju-won was attempting to cross the Northern River to enter the palace. But a sudden thunderstorm prevented him from crossing the river. The water rapidly rose up to the banks of the river, making it impossible to cross. People thought it was strange that the king-elect was being prevented from entering the palace. [Noble] The reason why there is such a sudden downpour is because heaven doesn't want Kim Ju-won to be the next king. Kim Gyeong-shin is a brother of the late king and he possesses the qualities to be a king. [Narration] As soon as Kim Gyeong-shin was crowned the king, the rain stopped and the people cheered with joy

28 Gameunsa Temple 1. Gameunsa Temple which protected Silla [Student] What is the place where two beautiful pagodas stand? [Teacher] That is the site of Gameunsa Temple. The buildings of the temple no longer exist and only the two pagodas and the site are remaining. But this temple symbolizes a king's will to secure peace for the kingdom and express appreciation for his father. [Student] Peace and appreciation? [Teacher] Yes. The construction of this temple began during the reign of King Munmu who ended a prolonged war and completed unification of the peninsula.the king built this temple wishing for the peace and security of Silla. It was part of his effort to protect the kingdom from the Japanese invaders coming from the East Sea. But he died before the construction was completed. So his son who inherited his father's spirit continued the construction with his respect and appreciation for his father. [Student] A temple for the kingdom and a father... that's a touching story! [Teacher] Yes, it is. And there are uniquely arranged stones at the site of the main building. The stones are known as the passage built for King Munmu who was believed to become a dragon in the sea. They believed the late king would come to the temple through that passage

29 Also, the two stone pagodas standing like two gate keepers of the East Sea are a shining example of the decorative art of Silla. [Student] Well, the more I hear the stories, the more I get interested in this temple. [Teacher] OK, then let's go to see it. How about starting from the stone pagodas?

30 Gameunsa Temple 2. The stone pagoda of Gameunsa Temple All buildings of this temple are gone and currently only two pagodas remain. Both pagodas one standing in the east and the other in the west are designated as national treasures. These stone pagodas elegantly depict the simple beauty and brave spirit of Silla people. These 13-meter-high pagodas are facing the East Sea to protect the kingdom from invaders coming from the sea. And precious sarira caskets were found in these pagodas. Sarira is a Buddhist term meaning the remains of Sakyamuni Buddha or a monk after cremation. Its shape can vary from a round ball to a small particle. In general, sarira is considered the result of a long time of meditation and praying. The sarira caskets which reveal the sophisticated artistry of the Unified Silla period are kept in the National Museum of Korea located in Seoul. Now, let's go to the site of the main temple building. It is the place you see between the two pagodas

31 Gameunsa Temple 3. A special foundation structure for King Munmu The site in front of you was where the main building housing a Buddha statue stood. Let's climb up the stairs and look at the site. Do you see the square and rectangular stones cross-stacked with spaces in between? It is a very unique foundation structure rarely found in Korea. This distinct structure is related to a legend about King Munmu, the father of King Shinmun who built this temple. The legend says that the late king became a dragon and came to this temple through the space between the stones. Because this temple is closely related to King Munmu, the mountain behind it is called "dragon mountain" and the village nearby is named "dragon village." Even though it is only a legend that the king who became a dragon came to this temple, the patriotic spirit found in many corners of this temple will remain alive in the hearts of Koreans. (In front of the site of the main building )

32 The underwater tomb of the King Munmu 1. The king who became a dragon to protect the Kingdom [Teacher] Do you see the large rocky islet in the sea? That's not just an islet. It is the tomb of King Munmu who completed the unification of the Korean peninsula and ruled the kingdom during its golden age. [Student] Is that a tomb? How did they build a tomb in the sea? [Teacher] Well, they cremated the king's body and scattered the ashes over the rocky islet. The rock has a criss-crossed crack on the surface. It is believed that the king's ashes were scattered into the crack. [Student] Well, royal tombs are normally as large as a hill and decorated gorgeously. Why was King Munmu cremated? [Teacher] Historical records say that the king wished to become a dragon in the sea after death to protect the kingdom. According to his wish, Silla people cremated his body and scattered his ashes over the rocky islet in the East Sea, calling it the "Rock of the Great King." [Student] A king who became a dragon to protect the kingdom... that's impressive! [Teacher] Yes. Then shall we learn more about the king? King Munmu who loved his kingdom so much King Munmu was a great king of Silla who laid the foundation for the unification of the peninsula. In its early days, Silla developed rather slowly. But King Munmu increased the

33 power of the kingdom by strengthening royal authority and successfully unified neighboring kingdoms through active diplomacy with China. So Silla was at its peak under his reign. Then why was the king concerned so much about his kingdom that he wanted to become a dragon to protect it after death? Silla completed the unification during his reign, but the unified kingdom was not stable because China which helped Silla during the unification war began to attack it. So the king made tremendous efforts to kick Chinese forces out of the kingdom. Another threat to Silla was the Japanese invaders coming from the East Sea. The invaders were a big headache for Silla people as they would frequently attack and loot the villages on the east coast. This is why King Munmu wished to become a dragon in the East Sea and protect Silla. The King who wished to protect this kingdom even after his death deeply touched Silla people's hearts. And the king also appeared in legends of later times as the symbol of patriotism. Now, shall we listen to one of the legends? Manpasikjuk which ruled the world with sound [Narration] The late King Munmu accomplished the great feat of unifying three kingdoms. 1 year after his death, something strange occurs in the East Sea. [Naval officer] My Lord! A strange islet appeared off the shore of King Munmu's tomb! [King] What? An islet in front of my father's tomb? [Naval officer] A strange rocky islet appeared in front of the tomb, and there is a bamboo tree growing there. [Narration] Upon hearing the officer s report, the King and his courtiers rushed to the coast. However, ships could not sail to the islet because suddenly the sea was running high. So the King had to stay at a nearby temple for a few days until the sea calmed down, then finally made it to the islet. When the King arrived at the islet, something even more amazing happened. A sea dragon appeared out of nowhere and gave the King a jade belt

34 [Sea Dragon] Your Majesty, this jade belt is a gift from the late King. He said putting this belt on will do you good. He also said that if you make a flute with the bamboo tree on this island and play it, the sound of the flute would make your kingdom peaceful. [Narration] The King followed what the sea dragon said. He returned to his palace with the bamboo tree and ordered a master craftsman to make a flute with it with utmost sincerity. The flute made in such a way was truly amazing. Just like what the sea dragon said, when the king played the flute, whatever crisis the kingdom facing was resolved. [King] Haha, this is a magic flute that calms the heavens and the earth. I will name it Manpa Sikjeok. [Narration] This bamboo flute was a precious gift that the late king gave to his son to help protect the kingdom