My name is Neil Benjamin Dasgupta, and I m here by the kind. invitation of the Rabbi, to speak about my recent trip to Berlin
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1 Speech about Berlin and Poland Shabbat Shalom! My name is Neil Benjamin Dasgupta, and I m here by the kind invitation of the Rabbi, to speak about my recent trip to Berlin and Poland. Before I start, I d like to mention and thank the organizations that made this trip possible: Emet, and JRoots; and I d like to give some formal warning that I may delve into things that are heavy, emotional, and severely unfortunate, but of course this was the reality then. Thank You. The flight to Berlin was ok, and the stewardesses were appropriately cold. My first reaction to Berlin was that the airport at least did not live up to the famed German standard of efficiency. The lines were all long and cramped, not very
2 efficient, or as the Germans would say: effizient. But let me skip to the more interesting part of Berlin. Our first stop was the Reichstag, the parliamentary building of Germany. There was no denying the mighty, and frankly beautiful Greco-Roman architecture. We were surrounded by gilded warriors and roman gods riding muscled horses. And the city itself followed the same theme of architectural and surface beauty, but it was strange. Walking the streets of Berlin, even in broad daylight, was eerie, and there s no other way to describe it. Wherever you were, the skeleton of the Nazi government was apparent. We stopped by a chocolatier, which was literally up the road from the former headquarters of the S.S. On our bus, we passed by one of Berlins most famous malls, a building which
3 once contained the private office of Adolph Hitler. (Ironically enough, his office is currently a Toys R Us). And only soon after, we stood right above the bunker in which Hitler shot himself. It was not easy, for me at least, to separate history from modern-day berlin. BERLIN WAS A SOFT INTRODUCTION TO WHAT I WAS GOING TO EXPERIENCE IN POLAND. Our drive to Poland was long, but accompanied with beautiful views of flat, flower filled farmland. Though of course even this was occasionally disrupted by a remaining Nazi guard tower amongst the flowers. We first stopped in Wansee. This was the place where the final solution for the extermination of the jews was discussed. And I returned again to the same theme of outer beauty scarred by
4 an insidious history. Really, the place was stunning, surrounded by a large calm lake and beautiful houses, thick trees and yellow sun, something out of a movie. We made our way into the actual room where the Nazis discussed the final solution. One of my good friends now who was on the trip with me, Elanit (a former member in the IDF), pointed out a document that contained a list of countries and the number of Jews in them, and the list was ruthless. She correctly pointed out that the Nazis even aimed their sights at Croatia, where only 200 jews lived. Amongst a list that contain numbers ranging from the couple thousand in Denmark to the 5 million of the USSR was a lone count of 200, maddening. We then reached Poznan, which is where I realized the first reality about Poland. Poland was and is not like Germany by
5 any standard. It s population did not undergo the similar revelation and re-education the Germans did post-wwii. But that aside, and I ll come back to that idea, we came to a building in Poznan that once contained a massive synagogue with ceilings so high that it allowed one s voice to reverberate and echo prayers so loud that an entire congregation of 2,000 could hear. This building, when the Nazis came, was absolutely wrecked from the inside and converted into a pool and gymnasium for the soldiers during their time of leisure. Inside, in the main hall, you could make out the outline of the synagogue, but staring you right in the face was the shell of a pool where Nazis swam and enjoyed themselves, it again, was absolutely maddening.
6 In the basement of that building we did something which hadn t been done in the 50 some-odd years since the building was officially closed. We started and finished an entire prayer service of maariv. And then we pulled out our Israeli flags, sang the hatikva, and other jewish folk songs. It was chilling and beautiful. We visited Chelmno, the first death camp. The function of this place was the liquidation of the Jews in Lodz and the surrounding area, and it was overlooked by a massive church which of course did nothing during these atrocities. Afterwards we went to the death camp in Treblinka, where myself, and other people collected real bone fragments of passed Jews which had risen up with the sediment to the top level of the soil. In my hands, I held a small pile of bones,
7 bones! I repeat because even now it s surreal to me. Then quite suddenly, one of the rabbis with us on the trip started crying and shouting by an established memorial there, in the far distance I could see him on his knees. As he was reading the plaques on the memorial, he found a list of names in which he found an entire sect of his family whose history was lost until right then. Our tour guide had with him soil and dirt, land, from Israel and all the bones we collected were put in a pile along with the earth from Israel and we gave a kever yisrael. I ll move now, to my experience in Majdanek. Majdanek was by far the hardest part of the trip for me. This is was a concentration camp right outside Lublin, where 1.5 million jews were murdered. This is where I have to be a bit explicit. We
8 were first brought into a dim-lit wooden building where jews were separated from families and stripped of their belongings. In the same building, were the showers used to wash the jews, and even this wasn t something to take comfort in. The Nazis repeatedly switched the temperature of the water from frigidly cold to scaldingly hot. We walked through the camp, surrounded by barbed wire, German guard towers and long black wooden buildings. The mere expanse of the camp was something to behold. We walked into one of the gas chambers, each one of us not trying and yet still trying to imagine ourselves in the place of the Jews who were there. I broke down in tears when we arrived at a room were Jews were cremated. The Nazis recounted stories of the Jews in these rooms, who even in the direst conditions, who knew that their end was imminent, repeated the same words over and over
9 again: Shema Yisrael Adonai Eloheinu, Adonai Echad. I consider myself as someone not easily prone to crying, but I could not fathom such faith, in the face of such deep evil, even now as I think about it, I feel tears welling in my eyes. As we left the camp, I looked back on the scene. I saw the concentration camp in the plain sight of a city where humans lived. This camp was not hidden away from society. It was in clear and plain view. Ill stray now a bit from this very depressing aspect of the trip, because truth be told, there were some amazingly happy moments. One of them was being inside a grand and beautiful synagogue in Lancut. In their we sang and danced, and to me, we also re-imported the purpose of the synagogue. Funnily enough, there were Israeli tourists in the synagogue with us
10 too, and I made them join our circle and join us in song and dance. And it was so beautiful. Here I was, singing in Hebrew staring at my people and giving this empty synagogue spiritual purpose. Ill go over two last things and my final thoughts. First: Auschitz-Birkenau. My experience here was not what I expected. Auschwitz was very strange. On the whole, it looked way more like a museum complex than it did a concentration camp, and it was treated as such. There was a restaurant right at the beginning of the camp, complimented with a bathroom for which you had to pay for! People smiled as they took pictures inside the camp. It was absolutely a shock to me. I thought I was going crazy. Do these people understand where they are? Do they not know? Do they
11 not care? And throughout the entire time we were there we were stared at and taken pictures of because of our kippot and Israeli flags. Birkenau was of course different but also very strange. It was much more authentic in that not much had been changed. On our way into Birkenau, a group of Jehovah s witnesses had a station with big signs that read: What if God really didn t care? I was about to explode in full anger, something I rarely show. But the rabbi beat me to it. He shouted at them with fiery indignancy, and I had never seen that, but I completely understood it and supported it. We walked through the ruin of Birkenau and took in the experience.
12 The last thing I want to talk about before my final thoughts was our stay in Krakow. It is a beautiful city with a buzzing culture, and I m pretty sure a majority population of men with massive beer bellies. Strangely, as we were walking through Krakow we heard a band playing Hava Nagila, and for a small moment we were excited. As we approached the live band we saw a couple men, dressed as orthodox jews, playing the Hava Nagila with a menorah in front of them. It took me a second, but I realized that this band was making a parody of jews for their audience. The last night of the trip our entire group went out for a dinner, we were told to dress nice and I wore a kippah and an Israeli scarf. After the dinner we all decided that we wanted to find a place to sit down and socialize. My friend Isaac and I walked
13 ahead of the group to scout some places. After being unsuccessful, we lost our group and tried to find them. As we turned a street corner we saw two polish men sitting on the side of the street. One of them saw my scarf and then my kippah and rose angrily out of his position. He was drunk and very large. He started shouting at me in polish, I could make out the word Zyd, Jew multiple times in his shouting. He came up right to my face, clearly looking to confront me physically. My friend and I left before he was able to do anything. This was the most transformative experience of my life. I learned that the world is not Fort Lee NJ. There are parts of the world past, present, and I m sure future, where real hatred exists, and I ve been sheltered from it my entire life.
14 This trip also reaffirmed my belief in the right for the state of Israel to exist as a state determined by the Jewish people. Israel is not just a shared desire. It is a shared necessity so that we never have to experience such atrocities again. And finally, I was religiously and spiritually challenged throughout this trip. I was in a constant flux of being extremely angry with god, as well as extremely appreciative. I was of course thankful that we survived and now have the ability once again to practice our traditions, but I could not understand the complete irrationality and deep hatred of the Nazis. There were other things I purposely left out of this speech as they are much to explicit to state here, but these were atrocities I could not understand at all, and I could not understand God. After the
15 trip, I realized once again of course that nothing about our existence is quite rational. The countless times we ve persevered persecution and survived bigotry, it s unique to the Jews, and our mere existence here is a probabilistic challenge. There s much to still think about and process. But I have made a promise to change my self after this trip. I made this promise to the people and rabbis on my trip and I will reaffirm it here: To wear a kippah every day proudly, and have no reservations about it even if I find that Im treated differently. To embrace and study my Judaism more intensely. And to continue my already ardent support for the State of Israel. Thank You Shabbat Shalom.
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