The Parish Church of St Giles, Pontefract

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1 The Parish Church of July 2014

2 Section A - BASIC FACTS Parish: St Giles with St Mary, Pontefract Dedication: St Giles Diocese: Wakefield Address: Market Place, Pontefract, West Yorkshire WF8 1AT Local Planning Authority: Wakefield Metropolitan Borough Council County: West Yorkshire Statutory Listing of Church: Grade II * Conservation Area: Pontefract Market Place Part I: THE CHURCH IN ITS URBAN ENVIRONMENT 1.1 Setting of the Church St Giles is an important building in relation to its location within the town being at the centre of the historic market place and the commercial heart of Pontefract. Its landscape setting, viewed from the south adjacent to the historic Buttercross, is an important feature of the town centre and the twice-weekly markets which to encroach right up to the boundaries of the building make this a vibrant and significant location. The crown spire of St Giles is a significant, iconic and familiar feature of Pontefract visible from some distance around. Location Plan showing St Giles Church in red St Giles church has been identified as a key element in the Pontefract Town Centre Masterplan (2007), sponsored by Yorkshire Forward, which seeks to promote the regeneration and renaissance of the town. The north side of the church is blighted by the presence of inappropriate modern development including the late 20th library which the Masterplan proposes to remove. 1 View of St Giles in the market place from the south

3 1.2 The Churchyard There is no churchyard, as such, at St Giles. The church has always been in the Market Place with no burial ground around it. In fact, development around and physically adjoining the building was such that in 1672 an Order was made to demolish the houses to the south side. In , it was necessary for the church to purchase a stable building in order to extend the aisles to either side of the chancel. The existing vestry appears to be a remnant of this historic arrangement as it is known, from Vestry records, that, in 1727 there was, one dwelling house, near the market cross, adjoining upon the Chapel of St Giles. Even today, neighbouring buildings physically adjoin the church to the south and east at the east end. There is a low stone plinth wall (previously adorned with metal railings) to the south side and to both north and south of the tower at the west end. Those to the north of the tower and the south of the south aisle provide a planting bed. To the south side of the tower there is a paved area giving access to the south entrance door of the 1791 tower. There is a further small area of land adjoining the east end of the north aisle behind a rubble stone wall which accommodates an electricity substation. Aerial view of St Giles showing buildings attached to the south and east at the east end Undated sketch view of south west corner of church showing railings on plinth wall between gate piers (only the plinth remains) 2

4 1.3 Social History The real heritage significance of St Giles is, by association, through the story it tells of the development of Pontefract over the last millennium: c The construction of the Norman chapel of St Oswald (there is a strong tradition that the first Christian King of Northumbria, Oswald [ ], erected a preaching station and cross at Pontefract, probably on the site now occupied by the Buttercross, itself constructed in 1734), served by the Canons of Nostell Priory and attached to the west side of the chantry chapel of St Mary de Foro (St Mary in the Market Place) which was built as a chantry chapel to the Priory of St John the Evangelist (founded in 1090 by Robert de Lacy and situated beneath the castle - one of the most important in the country in the Middle Ages - built by his father, the great Norman lord, Ilbert, in 1069) c The rededication of the chapel of St Oswald to St Giles pre-dated the granting of a fair at Pontefract on the feast of St Giles by Henry II c The growth of the town away from Pontefract Castle and around the market place during the subsequent 400 years and with it the enlargement of the church The dissolution of the monasteries during the Reformation in the 16 th century saw the chantry of St Mary dissolved in c.1538 and around 1550 incorporated into the main body of the church building The Civil War was a particularly significant period in the history of Pontefract with the siege of the Castle between when the then parish church of All Saints was ruined. St Giles was subsequently renovated with 1,000 from the proceeds of the demolition of the Castle whilst All Saints was left in its ruinous state. Thus St Giles became the principal place of worship in the town, ministered by the Puritan, Joseph Ferret from , who transformed the building, architecturally, from a Gothic church into a puritan preaching hall by the renovation works. Ferret seceded when the Act of Uniformity was passed in 1662 after the Restoration of Charles II and founded an independent congregation In Tanshelf which was the predecessor of the present Congregational Church in Pontefract to St Giles was ministered by three generations of Drakes (Dr Samuel son of the Castle siege diarist Nathaniel, Francis and John, brother of Francis, the great historian of York); A new tower was built to replace an earlier tower with a spire in 1707 funded by Sir John Bland of Kippax Park, MP for Pontefract. The 18 th century saw further significant developments which reflected those of the town itself. In the north aisle was refaced and new Georgian-style roundtopped windows inserted. A new south aisle was built between with high arcade pier bases to accommodate the fashionable box pews of the time almost all of which were in private hands giving rise to a severe shortage of free seats. Galleries were constructed, initially to the north and west sides in 1740, commemorated by the Royal Coat of Arms of 1740 now in the west gallery and later, in 1770, in the south aisle. 3

5 1.3 Social History Contd The vicar of St Giles was Thomas Heron, born and educated in Pontefract, who oversaw further significant changes to the building and the town. In 1789 the church was finally conferred the status of the Parish Church of Pontefract by Act of Parliament which empowered the Vestry to enlarge or improve the building as they thought necessary. The existing tower with its crown spire was constructed in 1791 to designs by Thomas Atkinson of York (erroneously attributed to Bernard Hartley - see below - by Colvin) The north and south aisles were extended eastwards, either side of the chancel, between by local architect, Bernard Hartley - who also designed Pontefract Town Hall, and was responsible for works to the east end of the church in 1817 (Hartley is commemorated in a stained glass window in the north aisle). The Victorian period also saw further major alterations to the building, particularly under the guidance of Dr Thomas Bissett, vicar of St Giles form (commemorated in south aisle window and stone plaque). The major reordering of the church was undertaken in 1868 to designs by JB & W Atkinson of York, when the 18th century box pews were replaced and gothic window tracery inserted. The new sanctuary was built by the Earl of Harewood to replace the original chantry chapel. The significance of Pontefract as a garrison town is also recorded in many of the monuments, carved pew ends and stained glass of this period. Surgeon-Major Henry Muscroft - stained glass window in south aisle and adjacent memorial tablet Copper plaque with marble surround to those killed in the First World War of the York and Lancaster Regiment Monument to Thomas Blanco of the King s Own Light Infantry, d.1873 Brass plaque on black marble ground to those of the York and Lancaster Regiment who died in the campaign in Egypt in 1882 Copper plaque with moulded oak surround to those of the York and Lancaster regiment who were killed in the Second World War Lieutenant Robert St George Hamilton of the 2nd Yorkshire North Riding Regiment, d.1877 Private Richard Mills of the York and Lancaster Regiment to commemorate his bravery in attempting to save the life of a fellow comrade from drowning in India, d.1912 Major Matthew Swinney, Further individuals are recorded is stained glass memorials: Joseph Walker John Coleman and wall monuments and plaques: Rev d James John Christie, vicar of St Giles from 1878 to 1899 Abraham Hale, churchwarden, d.1893 Robert Daniel Ryder, churchwarden, d.1910 Michael Mitton, local solicitor, d.1847 Edward Rhodes, wine merchant, d.1844 Ernest Jagger, organist, d.1909 Francis Arthur Chapple, organist, d.1950 James Goddard, Parish Clerk, d.1896 The Lambe family of East Hardwick, d Joshua Jefferson MD, d.1823 John Hepworth Hill, d.1843 The Crewe family, d

6 1.4 The Church Building in General Existing Ground Plan The building as we see it today is constructed of ashlar gritstone and coursed sandstone and consists of a nave and chancel under a single, continuous roof of Welsh slates laid to diminishing courses; north and south aisles run along the full length of the nave and chancel (the north aisle has a flat lead roof whilst the south is a monopitch) both with seven bays of similar round-headed openings with Gibbs-style surrounds to the south side (although the nave arcades are both of five equal bays with a double width bay at the east end to the chancel, the north nave arcade also has clerestory windows); a west tower of three stages rising to octagon with urns at broaches and topped with balustrade and crown spire; a sanctuary to the east of the chancel arch rebuilt on the site of the original chantry chapel with a steeply pitched roof and attached vestries to the south east which physically adjoin the neighbouring property to its south east corner. There is a gallery to the westernmost bay of the nave and aisles above a narrow vestibule spanning the full width of the building. The following plans are intended to illustrate the progression of the physical development of the church building over the past 900 years superimposed over a shadow of the existing plan layout (see above) - areas in blue indicate parts that do not exist today whilst red indicates those that remain extant c.1100 Chapel of St Oswald with the Chantry Chapel of St Mary to the east 5

7 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd c.1122 A nave of five bays; from the easternmost pillar sprang a chancel arch. Eastward of the chancel arch was a chancel and high altar, and further east was the chantry served by it s own priest Church re-named St Giles but chantry remained St Mary c.1350 North aisle constructed (arcade survives) Sometime after this the first south aisle was built (as illustrated on the various Civil War siege plans) but none of this survives in the existing building c Broach spire added to tower (also as illustrated on siege plans) 6

8 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd c.1550 Chantry incorporated as sanctuary into main body of the church with sanctuary arch Views of St Giles taken from various 17th century Siege Plans of the Civil War period Note the various configurations of windows and doors shown 1649 Major works to reorder and renovate the church including plastering, limewashing, box pews, central pulpit at east end as a Puritan preaching house 1672 Order made to demolish the houses to the south side of the church in the Market Place 7

9 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd 1707 New tower 1718 East window replaced Alterations to the north wall and windows to their existing round-topped form (although the inserted gothic tracery is later) Wainscotting appeared around the sanctuary 1727 Terrier states, one dwelling house, near the market cross, and adjoining upon the chapel of St Giles. Also one low room and chamber over it, formerly a stable, adjoining on the house of Joshua Butler 1740 Galleries inserted to north aisle and west end. It seems likely that the staircases to the north west and south west corners, shown on the 1852 plan (see later) were constructed at this time, although these are not the staircases we see today. It is possible that the 1868 reordering reused the balustrade of these staircases. 8

10 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd South aisle (arcade extant today with minor alterations to south wall in 1825) and clerestorey. Note that the south door is in the centre of the five bay aisle as also shown on the illustrations below. Illustrations from Paul Jollage s map of Pontefract dated 1742 (left) and Thomas Malton s engraving of the Market Place (right) dated Gallery extended into south aisle 1774 Organ in west gallery 1776 Plaster decoration added to nave ceiling (still visible in photograph pre-1868 reordering - see later) 9

11 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd 1782 Act of Parliament conferring parish status to St Giles 1791 Tower completely rebuilt with crown spire to designs by Thomas Atkinson of York (won in competition). Classical design was not to everyone s taste and proved quite controversial New organ on west gallery First the north, and then the south aisles were extended eastward either side of the chancel to designs put forward by Bernard Hartley Sash windows inserted into the 18th century aisle window openings East end repaired including the introduction of a semicircular sanctuary arch, a pair of round-headed east windows and high reredos all by Bernard Hartley and as illustrated in the pre1868 photograph 10

12 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd 1825 South aisle entrance moved to west end (where the door had originally been in the medieval building) and window inserted to replace it. West end vestibule inserted across the whole width of the first bay at the west end of the church enclosing the original gallery stairs Organ gallery at west end extended (as can be seen on the pre 1868 photograph) since removed Hot water heating system installed and aisles flagged and ventilated View of St Giles in the market place from the south from Fox s History of Pontefract, 1827 New organ installed in west gallery 1860 North walls and clerestorey refaced 11

13 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd The illustrations on this page show a ground floor plan of the church dated 1852 with the box pews set out within the whole body of the church right up to the sanctuary and the original configuration of the gallery stairs to the west end of both aisles. The pulpit is also shown on the north side of the nave. Note also the narrow openings shown to north and south of the sanctuary arch. The photographs must date from about the same time, certainly before the major reordering of 1868, and show the arrangement indicated on the plan. Also note the south aisle clerestorey which was later removed when the south aisle roof was reconstructed in

14 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd Major reordering to designs of JB & W Atkinson of York. Gothic tracery, and much of stained glass, inserted in aisle windows. Chantry chapel demolished and existing sanctuary built with window by CE Kempe. Rerdeos replaced. Organ moved to south aisle. New pews and pew platforms. Chancel roof lowered to the same height as the nave. Likely that west gallery stairs reconfigured at this time too Organ moved to north aisle and rebuilt. Plaster removed from nave and aisle ceilings revealing medieval timbers to nave. South aisle roof rebuilt to a steeper pitch incorporating skylights (since removed) to compensate for the consequential loss of the south clerestorey Plan drawn up by George Malcolm for new platform at east end Existing Binns organ installed at east end of north aisle 19th century view of St Giles in the market place from the south 13

15 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd 1902 George Malcolm s plans for east platform (slightly modified) implemented including new choir and sanctuary furniture as seen today Oak blocks laid in aisles 1923 St Oswald s war memorial chapel created at the east end of the north aisle against the west side of the organ, reflecting the original dedication of the church, as St Oswald s Chapel in the 12th century. Two views of the interior of the church (looking east, above and to the north west, below) before the aisle galleries were removed in Note also the decoration around the sanctuary arch 14

16 1.4 The Church Building in General Contd 1948 North and south galleries removed and the reredos redecorated to existing colour scheme Two contemporary views of the interior of St Giles prior to the 2012/13 re-ordering works Further minor alterations have been carried out in the church over the subsequent years including the formation of the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, created in the 1960s, the installation of a lavatory at the west end of the north aisle under the stairs and the removal of the north aisle pews and creation of a kitchenette to provide an area to serve refreshments. Major works of re-ordering to provide new accommodation on two floors at the west end of the church for a variety of community and church activities were completed in As can be seen, the building has undergone many transformations over the past 900 years reflecting the changing face and fortunes of the town of Pontefract. 15

17 1.5 The Church Building in Detail Much of the significance of the building can be attributed to its external features and appearance in the Market Place, from the south side. The tower of 1791 is of high significance being an iconic feature of Pontefract and having an unusual crown spire occasionally found in more northern churches such as Newcastle Cathedral, Edinburgh and St Andrews. The grandly Georgian south aisle with its rusticated surrounds could also be said to be of high significance although the Victorian tracery in its windows and the fact that the south door was moved to the west end in 1825 compromise its integrity and authenticity, as does the eastern extension of two bays dating from 1795 although it followed the same architectural detail thus making it appear contiguous. The north aisle, though pre-dating the south aisle by about 30 years, is of moderate significance being less accomplished architecturally with plain surrounds (again compromised by later tracery) although its eastern extension of 1792 is clearly distinguishable in its stonework and windows. The Victorian sanctuary is only of moderate significance at best, whilst being all of a piece, and marking the footprint of the12th century chantry of St Mary de Foro, it is fairly commonplace in its architecture. 16

18 1.5 The Church Building in Detail Internally, the whole space, taking the nave, aisles, chancel and sanctuary, is of no more than moderate significance. The numerous alterations over the centuries, although important in telling the story of the development of the church, conspire to give a fairly ordinary overall appearance. Internal features of high significance would have to be the two arcades which, whilst being of very different periods. The nave ceiling is also considered to be of high significance. The west end of the building has recently undergone a major internal re-ordering with new rooms created on two floors also providing a new accessible entrance, café, kitchen and toilets. The east end has also recently been transformed with new flooring, furniture, dais, the removal of the reredos and creation of new rooms to the south east corner on two floors providing a flower vestry, clergy vestry, parish office, choir vestry and storage. The part of the building occupied by the clergy and choir vestries and parish office is, historically, of moderate to high significance as a rare survival of an attached domestic building with medieval origins later incorporated into the church and opened up to the sanctuary with a Victorian arch and screen. The remains of a medieval wall were discovered during the recent reordering works and remain exposed to the new staircase in this area. However, architecturally, the space is much altered and a discrete element of the building as a whole. 17

19 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... Late medieval font seems likely to have been originally from All Saints Church, possibly moved to St Giles in the 17th century. Previously located at east end of the south aisle, although the 1852 plan shows it in the third bay from the west end on the north side which would have been directly opposite the south door of the 1742 south aisle until it was moved to the west end of the south aisle in The font now occupies a space to the north side of the new entrance to the nave. East window by C E Kempe dating from 1879 and depicting the Crucifixion in the centre light with the Resurrection to the left and the Ascension on the right with a lamb in the uppermost of three quatrefoils. 18

20 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd North Aisle Windows looking from west to east Stained glass depicting saints dedicated to Bernard Hartley local architect responsible for eastward extension of aisles and other works at the east end of the church at the turn of the 19th century. Stained glass depicting saints and a dove dedicated to Harriet Smithers Stained glass depicting saints dedicated to Edward Muscroft by Ward + Hughes Stained glass depicting the Epistles of Saint Paul and dedicated to Rev d James John Christie, Vicar of Pontefract from and his wife 19

21 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... South Aisle windows east to west Stained glass left panel shows Solomon building the Temple; right panel shows Vision of the new Jerusalem depicting the building of the church spiritually and materially dedicated to Rev d Thomas Bisset, vicar from 1865 to 1878 Stained glass dedicated to Joseph Walker Stained glass showing Jesus healing the sick, dedicated to Surgeon-Major Henry Muscroft Stained glass dedicated to Samuel Dobson Stained glass dedicated to John Coleman 20

22 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... Peel of 10 bells in high sided steel H-frame date from 1920, cast by John Taylors of Loughborough Monument to Major Matthew Swinney ( ) located on south wall of south aisle, which records his career, including service at Dettingen and against the Jacobites in

23 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd Monument to the Crewe family located on the west wall of the gallery Monument to the Lambe family of East Hardwick, on the north wall of the north aisle placed in 1823 by William Lambe s widow. 22

24 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... Oval marble plaque with gothic moulding, ball flower border, a rose at the top and a horn at the bottom. Erected by the Kings Own Light Infantry in memory of Henry Muscroft MD, a military surgeon, who died in Located in the centre of the north aisle window An unusual Indian/Art Nouveau style plaque of coloured tiles with red marble surround, erected by the York and Lancaster Regiment in memory of Private Richard Mills, to commemorate his bravery in attempting to save a fellow comrade from drowning in India in Located in a group with other military memorials, at the east end of the north aisle Royal coat of arms dating from 1740 located at the centre of the west wall of the gallery 23

25 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... Organ by JJ Binns of Leeds located at the east end of the extended north aisle and reputed to be one of the finest instruments in Yorkshire 24

26 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... The plain deal pews have been replaced by oak chairs with seagrass seats by Treske of Thirske in the Nave and Aisles giving a flexible layout. Part of one of the Victorian pews, including its carved ends, have been incorporated into a sound desk located at the west end of the south aisle. 25

27 1.6 Contents of the Church Contd... New choir stalls and chancel furniture were commissioned as part of the re-ordering works in 2012/13 and are to the designs of the church architect, John Cunnington. The furniture was manufactured by Treske of Thirske. Four of the choir stalls and Victorian pews were retained in the re-ordering and are now located along the walls of the north and south aisles respectively. These choir stalls date from the refurbishment of the east end of the church of to commemorate the Coronation of Edward VII. The pews retained date from the 1868 reordering and feature carved ends to indicate those reserved for the Mayor, Corporation and Officers of the Garrison The new stone dais incorporates a ramped access to the south side. 26

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