2016 Ubiquity Kailash Kora Day by Day Itinerary. Kailash from Silung Gompa

Transcription

1 2016 Ubiquity Kailash Kora Day by Day Itinerary Kailash from Silung Gompa Day 1 Friday, 5 August: Arrive Kathmandu You will be met at Kathmandu airport on arrival and brought to our hotel close to Bodhanath stupa, the most sacred Tibetan buddhist site outside of Tibet and where many Tibetans have made their home in exile. The stupa is a veritable powerhouse of blessings and we will be irradiated by its grace. As many of you will have travelled a long way to get to Nepal we will use to - day as an arrival day for you to relax and recover from your journey, saving the formal gathering for the following day. If however you are feeling fit we will have guides on hand to introduce you to Bodhanath so you can have a gentle exploration. Page 1

2 Day 2 Saturday, 6 August: Kathmandu Temples & Sightseeing Despite Nepal with it s location on the Southern slopes of the Himalayas and the meeting point and cultural synthesis for the Tibetan plateau and the In - dian subcontinent, Nepal and it s capital Kathmandu are much more akin in appearance and culture to India, with approximately 82% of the country s population identifying themselves as Hindu and around 9% as Buddhist. This is evident through the architecture and the proliferation of colour from Nepali women's clothing to the spices festooning market stalls. It is with Kathmandu s ancient Indic roots in mind, that we dedicate our first day to introducing our - selves and honouring these ancestors sacred places. After a gentle day s touring we will return to our hotel with time to relax be - fore a 5pm orientation meeting followed by a traditional Nepali dinner with live traditional Nepali music. Day 3 Buddha eyes, atop Swayambhanath stupa Sunday, 7 August: Tibetan Buddhism Today we immerse ourselves in the culture of the high Tibetan plateau and the great tradition of Tibetan Buddhism (Vajrayana Buddhism). First thing, following breakfast, we will visit the ancient stupa of Swayambhunath, the mon - Page 2

3 key temple. The mound that the stupa now finds itself on rose spontaneously from what was an enormous lake filling the Kathmandu Valley. The stupa and small temple now sit atop the mound, with incredible views across Kath - mandu. From the Monkey Temple we will go for an audience with a Lama and special blessing ceremony for a safe and auspicious journey to Tibet. And in the afternoon we will gather with the throng of Tibetans circumambulating the great Bodhanath Stupa, making prayers as we walk for loved ones at home and the benefit of all sentient beings. Bodhanath Stupa is the largest single stupa in the world and despite being a little younger than Swayamb - hanath it is the most revered site for Tibetan Buddhist in Nepal. It is consid - ered the cause for Buddha s coming to Tibet; as fable has it on completion, the four builders prayed for the dharma to flourish in the North and were re - born as the great Tibetan Dharma King Tritsong Detsen; Shantarakshita, the first Buddhist teacher to come to Tibet; and the third Padmasambhava, who would become the great Guru of Tibet and founder of the Vajrayana tradition. After a day full of sacredness we will return to our hotel for an early night in preparation for our flight up onto the Tibetan plateau. Day 4 Monday, 8 August: Fly to Lhasa, Tibet We rise early for our flight, which on a clear day will afford us inspiring and dramatic views of the high Himalayas and a view of Everest s peak. The flight is just 1.5 hours but in that time we will be transported to a different world - not to mention getting off the plane at an elevation of 3600 metres (2.25 miles) above sea level. Due to the change in altitude, (2200 metres higher than Kathmandu) we will take our first day very easy to aid our bodies in ad - justing to the lower oxygen levels. Complete rest and easy days during the first few days at altitude pay dividends later in the trip; rest and plenty of hot lemon ginger are the order for the day. Day 5 Tuesday, 9 August: Jokhang and Sera Monastery Our first day touring is a gentle one but one in which we will visit the holy of holies for Tibetans, the Jokhang. This is the central temple of Lhasa, the tem - ple in the centre of the mandala of the holy city of Lhasa and the house of Page 3

4 the Jowo Rinpoche, a pure gold statue said to be one of only two and crafted by divine hands during the time of the Buddha. It is said to carry the blessing of the Buddha, (the other remains in Bodhgaya the place of his enlighten - ment.) The Jowo Rinpoche came to Tibet with the Chinese Princess Wencheng when she married the Tibetan King Tritsong Detsen, and before departing China for those barbarian lands the princess begged her father to bring the great Buddhist icon with her. The Emperor in a supreme act of love for his daughter parted with this most precious icon, and it is Princess Wencheng and the Jowo Rinpoche who are credited with bringing Buddhism to Tibet. to travel from India to Tibet to teach. Tritsong Detsen later converted and requested Shantarakshista Lhasa s holy of holies; the Jokhang and Monks debating at Sera In the afternoon we visit Sera Monastery, one of the three great Gelug Monasteries of Lhasa. If we are lucky we will be able to witness the monks during their lively afternoon debating. Day 6 Wednesday, 10 August: Nalendra Monastery Most visitors to Lhasa stay within the confines of the city but we will drive to the Nalendra Valley, about 1.5 hours drive into the country. Nalendra is named after the great Nalanda Buddhist Monastery in India. Founded by the Bud - dha s direct students, it went on to become a thriving sacred university and perhaps one of the highest seats of learning this planet has seen. It was the Page 4

5 great teachers of Nalanda who brought the Buddhadharma to the world. Nal - endra was the seat of the Sakya master His Eminence Chogye Trichen Rin - poche. The monastery, set in beautiful countryside, is a simple and will pro - vide us with an insight into a functioning monastery. We will return to Lhasa and in the evening attend a Tibetan cultural night with traditional music, food and dancing. Day 7 The Potala Thursday, 11 August: Drepung, Potala and Norbulingka In the morning we visit Drepung Monastery, the second largest of Lhasa s three great monasteries, attached to Drepung is Nechung Monastery; the seat of Tibet s great oracle. Then we visit the Potala; the parliament / palace / monastery of old Tibet and seat of the Dalai Lama. The Potala, appearing more like a ship than a building, sits on a hill in the middle of Lhasa, majesti - cally looking over the city. The Potala is full of incredible relics and sacred items. After lunch we go to the Norbulingka, the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama, set in (at least for Tibetan standards) park-like grounds, it feels less like a palace and more like a small stately home. Early to bed in preparation for our first day on the road en route to Kailash. Page 5

6 Day 8 Friday, 12 August: Gyantse via Yamdrok Lake We drive due West and begin to witness at ground level the majestic scenario of the Tibetan Plateau, wide open spaces and magnificent mountains. We will most likely see our first Yak, a majestic being; half bison, half horse. And then on to Gyantse, a small town with a big history. Not only is Gyantse home to an incredible tantric stupa created by Newari artisans from Nepal, but it is the scene of a brief battle between a makeshift Tibetan militia and the British Army led by Francis Younghusband in Yamdrok lake & Gyantse Tantric Stupa Day 9 Saturday, 13 August: Shigatse and Tashilhunpho It is a short drive from Gyantse to Shigatse, the second largest city in the Ti - betan Autonomous Region (TAR). Shigatse is built around Tashilhunpho Monastery, the seat of the Panchen Lama, the second most powerful religious leader in Tibet prior to the Chinese invasion. It is an impressive monastery that houses a giant statue of Maitreya Buddha, the future Buddha, which re - mained untouched during the Cultural Revolution. Although much of the monastery was destroyed, thankfully it is now almost fully restored. Page 6

7 The great seated Maitreya statue at Tashilhunpo Monastery Day 10 Sunday, 14 August: Drive to Saga From Shigatse to West Tibet are only small border towns and tiny villages. The tarmac road from Lhasa to Western Tibet was only completed very re - cently, before then the journey took 5 days driving over very rough roads in 4WD vehicles, now it takes just 2 days in comfortable small buses. Yet the stark open and inspiringly beautiful plains of this high altitude desert remain the same, and if it were not for the airy feeling of floating in the heavens one would forget that the plain is more than 2 miles above sea level, with nomads leading herds of yaks to fresh pastures. Page 7

8 Saga itself is a terrible town, and serves no purpose other than as a border post and a place to stay before continuing the journey West to the jewel that is Kailash. Day 11 Monday, 15 August: Drive to Darchen Today is another full day in the saddle, but never a dull moment as one is mesmerised by the incredible scenery and the feeling of imminent blessings to be received. It s towards the end of the day we first spot the holy Manasarovar Lake and then Kailash, the Guru himself, jutting up from the earth and out from the clock of mountains that surround him. We will stop to pay homage and offer prayer flags before proceeding to Darchen, the small town at the foot of Kailash named in honour of the darshan (sacred blessings) the great moun - tain offers forth. When I first travelled to Western Tibet in 2001 the accommodation was very very basic (your garden shed would have been 3 star,) but now it is reason - ably comfortable though we will still choose the simple family run places. Kailash Kora Kora is the Tibetan word for sacred circumambulation, where they walk around sacred places and buildings clockwise, both to charge the site with en - ergy and receive a blessing themselves. A kora of Kailash is the most sacred of them all. A kora around Kailash is an arduous high altitude trek, that covers 53 kilometres (34 miles,) through a pass 5,600 metres above sea level, 300 metres higher than Everest Base Camp. Though Tibetans walk it in a day and most westerners in 3, we will take 5 to allow luxuriant time to imbibe the spirit of the mountain and for sacred practice. But more than physical exer - tion, a kora of Kailash draws on one s spiritual resources as the great blessing machine that it is, the mountain slices through the obscuration and defile - ments in the sincere pilgrim s mind-stream. This is the bigger test and initia - tion. I have seen a 65 year old five foot retired nurse from Ireland almost skip around the mountain whilst a 25 year old strapping mountain man was left weeping in the rocks unable to continue; it is the internal experience that is the most profound and what we are there for. And weeping in the rocks un - Page 8

9 able to continue is not a loss, it is the victory of soul over flesh, it is that per - son s own pilgrimage, it is their journey, their transformation. And so we have arranged this pilgrimage so that it is accessible for people who are willing of heart but are no longer or have never been a mountain goat. Everyone will be able to walk to the North Face, where the great purple crystal that is Kailash becomes unsheathed from the cloak of the inner moun - tain circle and shines upon the willing pilgrims with all His radiance. We will take two days instead of the usual one to walk there and then spend a whole day in practice and reflection. Then people can decide if they are ready to go through the Dolma La Pass and complete the kora or return to Darshan and continue their meditation at the foot of the mountain. Day 12 Axis mundi, on the first day of the Kailash kora Tuesday, 16 August: Begin kora After a leisurely start we will prepare our kit for the kora and then visit Silung Gompa on the inner kora, for incredible up close views of Kailash and a final blessing before we being our walk. After a light lunch and final preparations in Darchen we will start, walking half way to the North Face and stopping near Chukka Gompa to spend the night. Whilst on the kora we will stay in tents that will be arranged by our guides and porters with cooks to prepare us Page 9

10 healthy trekking meals. The gear will be carried by a train of yaks, with each pilgrim carrying a light day pack. We will walk about 11km (6miles) and it will take about 5 hours with frequent stops at sacred places along the route. Day 13 Wednesday, 17 August: Walk to North Face Today we start the walking early since it will be about 12 kilometres, not much further than the previous day, but a little steeper and a little higher with the trail taking us to the North Face of Kailash where we will camp for 2 nights, sleeping at an altitude of 4800m (3 miles) above sea level. For most people this will be the highest campsite of their life. Expect auspicious dreams. We will camp close to Dirapuk Gompa, a small monastery and one of the highest permanently inhabited places in the world, a few brave monks being snowed in through the winter each year. Day 14 Yak train around kora Thursday, 18 August: FULL MOON at North Face We have timed our journey to be at the North Face of Kailash for the August Full Moon. This day will be dedicated to prayer and sacred practice and rest in Page 10

11 preparation for the big day through the pass. There will be the opportunity to see through a gap in the inner vale of mountains and receive darshan up close and personal from Gang Rinpoche (snow jewel, the Tibetan s affectionate name for Kailash, named for the constant smattering of snow across its peak despite being below the summer snow line). Dolma La Pass Day 15 Friday, 19 August: Through the Pass / Return to Darchen For the group continuing on the kora and through the pass it will be a very early start to enable us to complete the 17 kilometre walk through the pass before the sun goes down and to be through the pass before the winds get up and ground softens unduly. We will walk almost a kilometre straight up into the sky for what will at times feel like a stairway to heaven, to the sacred Dolma La Pass, named after the beloved Goddess Tara, who loves all sentient beings as a mother does. She will certainly bless us - and Tibetan s consider crossing through this path to be a rebirth with the karma accumulated in this life dismissed (and then time to clear past karma). We will continue down the even steeper other side, careful to stay sure-footed despite the euphoria, for Page 11

12 several kilometres yet until we find the first flat ground to camp beside the flowing fresh mountain stream. For those returning to Darchen it will be a slow meander back down from the North Face, revisiting the sacred places, with perhaps a bus ride for the last few kilometres back to rest at Darchen. Day 16 Saturday, 20 August: Complete kora / Mentsalkhang Today is an easy downhill walk, albeit still approximately 13 kilometres, wind - ing through the valley back to Darchen, stopping at Zutulpuk Gompa on the way (the site of a famous spiritual contest between the Tibetan saint and favourite son Milarepa and Bonpo adept.) Milarepa won and Buddhism con - signed the Bon tradition to second place in the Tibetan psyche. Bon is a shamanistic tradition, and Bonpos (Bon practitioners) used to walk around Kailash anti-clockwise. On arrival to Darchen we will meet with the rest of the group who will have spent the day at the Mentsalkhang (small Tibetan Medicine Hospital on the edge of Darchen, serving pilgrims). Day 17 Chu Gompa & Manasarovar Sunday, 21 August: Rest day at Manasarovar Kailash is the great Shiva lungs of the planet and Lake Manasarovar is the great Yoni, balancing male and female archetypes, with the water that creates the lake pouring off Kailash from the heavens. It is a short drive from Darchen Page 12

13 and one of the world s highest lakes, created by crystalline blue waters, Man - asarovar sits in the most majestic abode scattered with Gompas like jewels around a tiara. Today we will rest beside Chu Gompa, named for the hot min - eral springs where we will bathe to soothe our aching muscles and replenish the body. Day 18 Monday, 22 August: Tour Lake Manasarovar The circumference of Manasarovar is approximately 105 kilometres with sandy, beach like shores. Today we pay homage to this great lake, with a kora driven in our bus stopping at several Gompas. Day 19 Tuesday, 23 August: Drive to Saga We begin the return journey with a full heart and still many jewels to savour along the road home. Day 20 Wednesday, 24 August: Drive to Tingri Tingri is a small Tibetan town close to Qomolungma (Everest) on the Tibetan, Northern side. Our drive to Tingri will take us through some of the most spec - tacular scenery on the planet, where at times it appears as if the vast Hi - malayan mountain chain is a skeleton strewn across the horizon. Page 13

14 Rongbuk Monastery with Qomolungma behind Day 21 Thursday, 25 August: Rongbuk and Qomolungma, North Face From Tingri we visit Rongbuk, which although very small was considered one of the most significant seats in old Tibet, and at 4,980 metres is the highest fully fledged monastery. The book Tintin in Tibet features a monastery in - spired by Rongbuk. From here we will travel closer to Qomolungma for inspir - ing views of the mountain, which looks very different from the North. Day 22 Friday, 26 August: Drive to Kathmandu via Milarepa s cave We take the plunge down from the high altitude plateau and starkness of Ti - bet towards the lush verdant humidity of Kathmandu. The contrast in colours and culture is enlivening. En route we will visit a cave very significant in the story of Tibetan history, its beloved son Milarepa. Page 14

15 Returning to our hotel alongside Bodhanath stupa, your new heart home Day 23 Saturday, 27 August: Free day and celebration The day is set aside for rest and shopping, journalling and sharing stories whilst sipping tea overlooking Bodhanath stupa. And in the evening we will have a celebration banquet. Day 24 Sunday, 28 August: Homeward It s time to return home and scatter the multitude of blessings to the four di - rections. I always say there is your life before Kailash and your life after; time to begin the latter. NOTE: Page 15

16 The Friendship Highway, the road connecting Nepal and Tibet, linking Lhasa and Kathmandu, was severely damaged in the April 2015 earthquake. If it has not been reopened by the time we visit, instead of driving back to Kathmandu we will instead return to Lhasa and fly. Created by Jeremy Ball, August 2015 Page 16